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98 of 98 people found the following review helpful
on May 14, 2013
I have a 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee with factory-installed brightside roof rails, and this rack does fit it (I just installed mine). This appears to be the same roof rack as the mopar rack. One detail that I wanted to know: their construction. The foot/base on each side is plastic, but the locking mechanism (the inside stuff that hooks to the rails on your roof) and the cross bar (that your kayak, etc. will hook to/rest on) are metal. Overall, the rack seems well constructed. It takes some effort to put it up, though, given the less than perfect instructions. Here's what I learned:

1. First, I followed the other reviews and put the small edge of each cross bar facing toward the back of the vehicle--like an airplane wing.

2. The slightly shorter bar fits the rails at the BACK of my jeep. Others said front, but the feet don't have the reach for the bar's width up there. I was left with one bar that didn't seem to fit anywhere. I breathed a sigh of relief once I took the keyed end part off and slid the top plastic strip out of the rail to expose the screws and saw one screw which (if loosened) allows the feet to be moved closer or farther apart. I still could only get the shorter rail to fit the back of my roof (then only with both screws on each foot loosened a lot--after you get the fit, tightening them up makes it snug to the roof); the longer one easily fit the front part.

3. Something the instructions don't tell you--one of those two screws above each foot controls the "jaws" of the locking mechanism (what pulls the cross bar/rail tight to the car roof). I had to loosen that screw (the one toward the OUTSIDE of the bar, on each end of it) almost all the way. I'm talking look at the end of that screw sticking through the nut on the bottom of the foot and unscrew it(from the top) until the bottom end is even with the nut (I didn't need to unscrew it all the way, though). That loosening allows the "jaws" of the roof rail to come out enough so you can hook it into the rail installed on your car roof. Loosen each side, place it in the rail on your roof, then start tightening each screw. After some tightening, you can slide these cross bars around to get the spread you want. They shouldn't come up off the roof rail, though, as they're locked in now.

4. After you screw these down tightly (watch out not to strip out the allen screws), shake your car with them and make sure they're attached firmly. I don't think I'll be taking these on and off--they look nice (all black), and taking them on and off would be a bit of effort. Now, slide the black rubber strip you pulled off the top in from the side (leave the keyed end piece off), little by little. I was able to do this pretty efficiently, but I could see where others had some issues trying to push it in from the top. I think sliding it in from the side is key here. Then, lock the end piece back into place, store the keys and allen wrench in your car, and you're good to go. By the way, the keyed part is only to prevent (it seems) someone from unscrewing this. It is not a quickly release function.

UPDATE (June 2013): The rack rails seemed to work great in heavy use--I drove 300+ miles at highway speeds with 2 kayaks on them (around 100 lbs of boat up there on my malone seawing brackets), and the rack held it all. Rain, coastal wind, high speeds, and reduced aerodynamics didn't seem to phase these rails.

UPDATE (Oct 2014): The rack rails have transported my kayaks on the malone brackets many times, and haven't loosened up or had any problems. I even made a short drive (out of necessity) with three kayaks mounted/tied to the rack rails, and no problems. Also, no fading or rust. Still very pleased with this purchase.
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31 of 31 people found the following review helpful
on October 28, 2013
These bars look nearly identical to the mopar brand. Installation didn't take too long (~40 mins), but the instructions are a bit unclear. Here are some tips from my installation (disclaimer - use at your own risk):

1) Identify the front and rear bar, and the forward edge. My bars were labeled "FRONT" and "REAR". The forward edge of each is the "fatter" part (like a wing).

2) REMOVE CAPS & STRIP - Use keys to unlock and remove the locking caps, followed by the upper rubber strip. I used a flathead screwdriver to pop the cap off from the bar once unlocked. The strip easily slides off.

3) LOOSEN THE NUTS - With the stripping removed, the housing lug nuts will be exposed (one outer, one inner).

a) Use the allen wrench to loosen the outer lug nut nearly completely. The bolt on the underside of the clamp will be nearly flush and the locking clamp itself will be exposed, allowing the locking clamp into place so it can grip the roof rack channel.

b) loosen up the inner nut 'halfway'. This allows the plastic housing to slide laterally along the crossbar in order to align the housing with the channel depending on how for forward/aft you place to the bar.

4) DROP CLAMP INTO CHANNEL - Solo, or with the help of someone else, place one bar at a time by dropping the housing clamps into the channel. Examine the clamp portion to understand how it locks onto the factory channel. The channel consists of two "walls". When in place, the clamp will straddle the inner most wall, with outer part of the clamp "in" the channel and the other part of the clamp "outside" the channel (towards the center of the vehicle).

5) POSITION BAR FORE AND AFT - With the all nuts loosened, the bar itself should now be able to slide slightly forward or aft depending on where you want to place the bars. I positioned each bar as forward or aft as it could go, respectively.

6) TIGHTEN THE NUTS:
a) With the housing positioned, tighten the outer nut. This will tighten the clamp down to the factory channel. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN as this may strip the nut. If done right, the housing grooves will be flush with the channel walls and you should be able to tell the clamp is firm and gripping the channel.

b) Now tighten the inner nut. This will tighten the housing, bringing it flush to the bar.

c) When complete with both housings, give a good pull up and down and fore and aft on the crossbar. The bar should stay in place but still flex slightly since it's plastic.

7) Repeat step 6 for remaining bar. If in doubt, call the company. Keep in mind the amount of force these bars will be subjected to if you put something like a canoe or kayak ontop then expose to highway speed winds. Thats a lot of pull and strain so be confident installation is correct.

8) REPLACE STRIP AND CAPS - Slide the strip back on and then lock the caps back into place.

Enjoy.
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24 of 25 people found the following review helpful
on November 19, 2014
As others have stated, instructions included are useless. Discovered all my wind noise was from improper installation. Just had my 2014 JGC up to 60mph with zero wind noise. Never done a review with photos.. not sure where they will show up. Hope it helps the visual learners. If looking at pics, keep in mind I already had the bars on the roof, you will want to start on the ground.

If the bars are not labeled "front" "back" like mine - Front bar 46 1/2" long, Back bar 46" long

1. Starting on the ground - peel the long rubber strip all the way off. This exposes the screws.

2. On one end unlock the locking mechanism then take a small screwdriver and pry off the end cap. This only needs to be done on one end. It allows you to slide the rubber strip back on later.

3. Still on the same end and using the allen wrench provided loosen the screw closest to you being careful not to go as far as to make it so loose it comes out. If your not sure it's best to air on the side of caution at this point, you can correct later. Now loosen the second screw a few turns.

4. On the opposite end all you need to do is loosen both screws the same way as described in 3.

5. Place bars on rails... here is where I made the mistake. The more blunt side faces forward, tapered side faces back. (in the picture of side view... Right side of pic is facing forward, Left side is facing back) I also added a pics how the bars sit on rails. This is where you may have to loosen that screw closest to you a bit more.

6. Measure. In the end I placed mine about 2" from front and 2 1/2" from back.

7. Tighten both screws on both ends.

8. Slide the rubber strip back on followed by the end piece w/ lock.

9. Now repeat.

Overall satisfied with the product and saving a bundle over Mopar. Not to mention installing myself. Haven't carried anything yet, so can't speak to that. The aggressive look it adds is a bonus.

Sometimes a girl has to get her hands dirty. I GOT THIS.
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19 of 23 people found the following review helpful
on August 7, 2013
I recently purchase this crossbar and just installed it. I would agree with the other reviews on a number of things just to re-iterate. The longer one does go on first and the shorter one fits on the back. These reviews were very helpful with that guidance, otherwise, it would have been even more trial and error.

And the fatter side goes facing forward with the skinnier side behind it. I hear no noise whatsoever, although i've just done a minor test drive so far.

One item i'd mention is about the screws...loosen the outer screw all the way to where you can see or feel it become flush with nut. That was advice i saw on here and is critical. I didn't read those reviews carefully enough...but this is a KEY POINT. This is what lets the 'jaws' fall more from the plastic feet enclosure and let's you figure out how to get it to grip on to the rails. Do NOT however loosen the inside screw TOO much...just a little. My trial and error suggested you do it to some degree to fiddle with it and get it to grip onto the siderails effectively. Unfortunately, i loosened this inside screw all the way and eventually had to take the entire thing apart and put it back together, which was not the end of the world b/c it let me figure out how it worked better. But loosen outside screw a ton, and inside one a little on each of the 4 feet. and adjust that inside screw as needed to let you situate the feet on to the rail.

I'll be testing this on a long road trip with a cargo carrier over next week. And will update after that...hope this is helpful...seems very sturdy.
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7 of 8 people found the following review helpful
on December 24, 2012
Other than the packaging being beat up the racks fit PERFECTLY! Our canoe is easy to load, and they are adjustable. Take you rtime installing as "Front" is not labeled, but the racks definitely have a FRONT and REAR.
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4 of 4 people found the following review helpful
We put these on our 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo with the flush mount side rails and it fits perfectly! The directions are nonexistent, but the installation was pretty obvious, and the other reviews on here will answer any additional questions you might have. We don't plan to use this a ton so we didn't want to spend a lot of money on something, this fits the bill perfectly! We added a basket Highland 1041900 U-Venture Steel Rooftop Cargo Basket, and when needed a waterproof bag Keeper 07203-1 Waterproof Roof Top Cargo Bag (15 Cubic Feet), it held everything no problem, would definitely recommend for somebody looking for less expensive bars.
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6 of 7 people found the following review helpful
on December 14, 2012
Looks to be identical to the OEM cross bars. I wanted to save a few bucks and figure I would give this a try. From what I read on Jeep forums the OEM cross bars are made of plastic as well and seem to operate and look the same.

I unknowingly installed the front bars on backwards at first and was making a loud whistle noise when on the highway. Turned them around and they work great. No noise at all.

Some people claim a 1-2% loss in MPG but to me it's worth it because it gives your Jeep a little more aggressive look and the functionality is there. Just make up for that savings by driving more efficient and you won't notice any difference.

Two of the bolts I stripped when bolting them on and off so had to take out my drummel and cut a notch in them so I could get a screwdriver on them. Other than that no real problems.
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5 of 6 people found the following review helpful
on February 20, 2014
I did read the reviews, and I should have pulled the screws out and went to the hardware store for replacements. 2 are stripped, and 2 are probably going to after I go to loosen them up. I tried not to overtighten, but the screws turned into butter while tightening them up. I know people said go easy on them, but you are talking about mounting a box on your roof with your important stuff that you don't want to fly off! Such a shame because the rest of the product seems top notch.

Followed the instructions others left which basically was to loosen the outer screw almost all the way, and the inside screw just needs to be loosened a little so the foot can slde around on the bar. Instead of removing the center strip of plastic to expose the screws, I just peeled up the ends. Then used a pair of needle nose pliers to slide the piece back into the track.

I contacted the seller and asked for replacement screws. We'll see how that goes.

I plan to use the rack with a cargo box this weekend for a trip. Even though the screws are stripped it is mounted on the car securely, just getting it off is going to be a pain! Probably will have to drill them out with a screw extractor.

Will update after my trip and response from the seller.
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3 of 3 people found the following review helpful
on December 12, 2014
I thought I had scored a deal on the actual Mopar crossbars on eBay only to find out it was missing one of the feet, didn't read the fine print. I purchased this kit, and I can confirm it is an EXACT DUPLICATE of the Mopar crossbars. The parts between the two kits are completely interchangeable. I ended up using the Mopar crossbars and bolts (the Mopar kit has star pin security bolts, this kit has standard hex key bolts) and the feet and rubber cross bar strips from this kit (the mopar rubber strips had faded) and it's perfect. Can't recommend it highly enough, save your money and buy this kit.
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3 of 3 people found the following review helpful
I received these racks very quickly, and installed the rear with no problems in about 15 minutes. The front bar had a stripped screw head, however. I emailed the seller via Amazon in the evening, and the next morning a replacement front bar was in transit. Received that one quickly, installed in 10 minutes and put the bad one in the box with the paid return label. Excellent service!

The bars fit my 2014 Grand Cherokee perfectly, have a 150# load rating, and are aerodynamic and quiet.
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