I love the idea of regional American cuisine, and as I travel nearly every week for work, guides like this are a wonderful tool to help find the best local favorites. Generally speaking, this guide is excellent: colorful, descriptive, honest, and well laid out. I have no beef with the "national" sections: comparing fries, pizza, pancakes, burgers, and ribs across the country is a great way to see how varied we still are.
I have a couple of complaints, though. First, Hawaii is completely left off. While I understand that driving to the islands is difficult, any survey of American regional cuisine must include the plate lunch, Waiola shave ice, ramen shops, Leonard's malasadas, Mr. Mandoo's giant steamed Korean buns, and Dim Sum in Chinatown (admittedly, this could have been in San Francisco too).
Second, and on the same trend, Asian food gets amazingly short shrift. I'm glad that many Southwestern and Mexican specialties get a write-up, but to include only Ichiban PB and to leave off such great Asian-American classics as sushi, dim sum, pad thai and more seems wrong. Consider Chinese food, which for generations has been a mainstay of American eating. Completely missing, yet I would argue that American Chinese food is much more American than Chinese.
Third, Connecticut gets WAAAAAAY too much credit. By my count, only California (68) has more entries than Connecticut (56). Illinois (52), New York (40), Tennessee (42), Texas (54), all have fewer great food places than tiny little Connecticut. Massachusetts, with twice the population and a similar ethnic mix, has only 23 entries. I appreciate the Stemed Cheesburger and New Haven pizza, but SEVEN ice cream places (compared to 10 for the other states combined)? That's just ridiculous.
Fourth, too often the authors take the easy way out and recommend the standard tourist-friendly location. Take for instance the Loveless Cafe in Nashville. They have fallen from grace a long time ago, and any Nashvillian will tell you that there are countless better places for country ham, biscuits, and banana pudding. Yet somehow, they still get a glowing recommendation in the book. A similar story in Chicago, where no local will swear by Al's #1 anymore, yet it still gets the #1 rating for Italian Beef.
But these are small things that can easily be fixed in a next edition. After all, when you add up all the foods mentioned, you only come to 269 (including two separate listings for doughnuts). When you add up all the restaurant listings, since most foods have several restaurants listed, you get 931. I don't know where 500 came from, but there are plenty more foods to be added to make a nice round number! Consider buffalo wings, guacamole, lox and bagels, fried green tomatoes, gumbo, green chile, she-crab soup, cornbread... all inexlicably left out.
All in all, a controversial tome, but still well worth enjoying, if for nothing else than to bicker with your friends and family.