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on August 13, 2013
I used this to remove six machine screws from my old car. All six were painted over and stuck fast. On the first three I removed the paint, then tried everything I could think of to get them out, but to no avail. They ended up all chewed up, and their state prompted me to order this product. The second three I left completely alone until the product arrived, and it's one of those that you see me removing in the video. That's why I appear to be working on a perfectly good screw - I know that nothing else will work.

The screws were stuck so tight that my drill couldn't remove them, so I used a wrench to manually apply the force once the hole had been drilled and the second bit was in place. With later screws I didn't even attempt to use the drill for the second part/removal step, I just held the bit in place with my fingers and went straight to the wrench.

Having removed six screws the bit looks to be in perfect condition and can be used again.
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on April 26, 2008
I recently took down a metal gazebo on my deck. The 2.5" deck screws that held the gazebo in place were stripped and the tops were rusted. I tried every tool I had to remove them and they wouldn't even budge. I was afraid they'd never come out and I'd have to shave them down. After ordering the 4-piece Grabit tool, I read the instructions and within 5 minutes I had extracted all of the deck screws. I was overjoyed!!!

After that, I immediately went inside the house to extract two very small & stripped screws that were in a bedroom wall. It took two turns of stripping and extracting the screws, and then Viola! Worked again!

Best $20 I ever spent on a tool!

TIPS:
A. Use eye protection and gloves. When drilling out the screw, it generates a lot of small metal slivers which can fly out and could get into you eyes. They're small enough to stick into your skin as well, so wear heavy gloves. Make sure you clean-up afterwards or you could step on them.
B. Read the directions. I think some of the other people who reviewed this product didn't read the directions and just tried to muscle it (hence the melted extractor bit).
C. Go S-L-O-W. Use a variable speed drill and go as slow as possible. Also, set the torque on your drill to the most powerful setting so it doesn't "click" when it meets resistance.

Good luck!
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on July 31, 2011
This kit works astonishingly well.

My first chance to use it was on my daughter's Kia. I was putting in a new ignition coil when the small hardened bolt snapped off, leaving just a small, uneven stub sticking out about 1/4 inch from the valve cover housing where it goes. I was dreading having to replace the whole housing when I remember I had this tool.

In less than 5 minutes, the broken stub was out -- cleanly and smoothly with absolutely no damage to the housing. I've tried other products with little or no success. In several cases, I've ruined whatever it was that had the broken bolt stuck in it. Not this time, this time I was home free in a minute or two.

Tips:

#1. The instructions don't include pictures, and it took me a few minutes to realize that with each bit one tip is for drilling a small recess into the top of the damage bolt and the other is for torquing into that hole once it has been made.

#2. GO SLOW, and with LIGHT pressure. The biggest mistake you can make (other than using the drill in forward rather than reverse) is to fail to align the drill portion with the center of the broken bolt. The bolt surface will be uneven so don't press into it. Position the drill right above it and start it spinning, then gently bring the tip of the bit into contact and let it make its own hole right in the center. Once you've got it started, you can add a little pressure but take your time. Make the hole good and deep. Then when you flip the bit and use the extractor side, it will astonish you with how well it bites right in and out comes your bolt.

#3. Reverse, reverse, reverse. Both the drilling part and the removing part must be done with the drill in reverse.
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on February 5, 2008
I was a little skeptical about this, but had a broken bolt that I needed to extract with few other options. I paid $20 at a local hardware store for a set of two. These things work like a gem! That bolt came right out with no problem when I really thought it wouldn't budge. One note to help out, I found it hard to get the drill bit side to stay centered on the bolt when starting. Using a good center punch might be helpful just to get the bit to stay centered. Overall, I am impressed, these are going on the list for stocking stuffers to friends and family next year.
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on May 1, 2008
Not sure what the others that gave this a bad review had problems with. I have owned dozens of other models screw removers, and have never had a single one work, sometimes I had one that would get out 1 screw out of 12.

I have used this set 9 times now, and it worked all 9 times saving me countless headaches and a ton of money from not having to replace entire parts because a screw was rounded off or stripped.

I used this set on 4 sizes of phillips head screws, 2 sizes of hex screws and 2 sizes of slotted screws and worked flawlessly on every type. Maybe the others not using it right? You are supposed to "drill" out the head with one end of the tool, turn it over and then use the removal side, money every time I tried it anyway.

This thing grabs so tight that even my Dewalt impact driver will not let go of the stripped screw even when it is "impacting" to get out those stubborn long screws or rusted in screws.
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on November 23, 2012
I made the mistake of thinking that even if this did not work, it would not make the problem worse. Wrong.

I needed to remove several 3/4" screws which were frozen in a cooktop. The philips slots were worn, but otherwise the heads and screws appeared undamaged. To make things as easy as possible for the screw remover I sprayed the screws with PB Blaster and let that work for 2 days. The burnishing end made appropriately sized holes. However, the remover end simply would not grab the edges of the hole the burnishing end made. And, yes, my drill was in reverse, at low speed. I applied pressure and angled the remover per the instructions, no luck.

Until I got to the third screw. On it the removing end threaded into the screw head as it was supposed to do. The screw started to back out. One revolution. Looking good. Second revolution. Making progress. But then, words that may not be reprinted in this review. The tip of the removing end broke off, firmly embedded in the screw head, just as is reported by so many other reviewers who have given it 1 star.

Because the remover is "Tempered twice for extra hardness" it is brittle and prone to breaking, and when it breaks it is a bear to grind out. If you choose to ignore this warning and buy this product, be sure you have your dremel at hand with a good supply of grinding stones.

I believe this is the first 1 star review I have given, but 1 star is generous. I figure that 1 star is appropriate for a product of no value, but since this made my problem worse when it broke off, I would like to give it a negative rating.

I know that many people have had success using this product. I congratulate them on their luck. But too many people report the same problem of the removing tip breaking off. Since it broke for me while the screw was turning I must conclude that I was not overstressing it, and there must have been a defect in the metal or manufacturing process. Once I cleaned up the mess left by the broken tip, and removed the head of the screw, I was able to grab the screw shaft with a vise grip, and the screw came out easily.

Do yourself a favor and do not take a chance with this product.
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on May 6, 2008
I was skeptical that this tool would work as advertised.
I am happy to report, that I successfully pulled 5 broken, 3 inch long deck screws from their tomb.
Worked Great !!!!!!!!!
Anyone that has ever put down decking screws knows that you can strip them badly.
Removal was simple - first burnish the screw with one end, and then flip the tool and use the extractor end.
You'll be happy you purchased these bits.

NOTE: When you use the extractor end, put straight, solid pressure on it and go slow. Too fast and you could spin out of it.
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on December 17, 2010
I was using the number two extractor bit to remove a wood screw and the head cracked off. This leaves me questioning the validity of the description "tempered twice for extra hardness" I've tried several times to contact manufacturer, no response. Based on this lack of response, I can only assume the warranty for this product is worth the same amount as the paper it was printed on.
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on January 22, 2012
Broke an 8mm front pinion yolk u-strap bolt on my 2004 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon a couple years ago. Rather than pay almost a hundred bucks to have a shop do it, I grabbed this kit for less than twenty. DYI success. Used an 18V DeWalt originally to attempt to drill the bolt out (no extractor). Not sure what I was trying to accomplish, but it didn't work so I was left with a mostly-hollow bolt in my yolk. After getting this kit, I soaked the bolt with PB Blaster for a few years, then used the drill with the extractor (non-threaded end) to rough up and open the hill I already created prior. Then flipped the extractor over to the threaded side. The bolt had blue Loctite, and my drill was not strong enough to torque the it. I had to use a 1/4 Craftsman wrench (closed end), and even then my own chest and arm strength weren't enough and I'm not particularly weak. Hitting the open end of the wrench with a hammer pretty hard finally got the bolt to start spinning (shock force is like magic for stuff like this). I was hitting so hard that I was worried any of the 3 items (hollowed bolt, extractor, wrench) might break. None did.. that certainly speaks to the extractor's strength. I was uncertain about these extractors at first, but after this, I have pretty high confidence in them. Be sure you're wrenching ALL the way flush with the bolt.. BELOW the thin parts of the extractors.. to minimize the risk of breaking the extractor. Wrenching from the middle, or anywhere above the thin part on the ends, is a bad idea. Hope this review gives others some confidence, especially those who have never done this before. It took a little bit of force, but it was a very simple and EASY task! DIY win!
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on August 7, 2011
I bought these to remove a couple stripped stainless trim screws in a recent project and ended up pulling about ten different stripped screws around the house. My experience with these is mostly with #6 - #10 screws (stainless square-drive, steel Phillips, Cortex Azek square-drive fasteners and Deck Mate combo drive screws) into pressure-treated framing. The key to success seems to be properly burnishing the existing bit slot/hole (decent pressure and slow speed until the hole is smooth) and slow speed and firm pressure on the removal. I had to re-burnish a couple screws to get the extractor to grip properly and in one case went up one size on the bit to make it work. Thus far I haven't found anything I couldn't remove with these, and they still look like they'll be good for a quite a few more extractions.
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