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Alice Waters and Chez Panisse [Kindle Edition]

Thomas McNamee
4.3 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (48 customer reviews)

Print List Price: $17.00
Kindle Price: $11.84
You Save: $5.16 (30%)
Sold by: Penguin Group (USA) LLC

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Book Description

The first authorized biography of "the mother of American cooking" (The New York Times)

This adventurous book charts the origins of the local "market cooking" culture that we all savor today. When Francophile Alice Waters opened Chez Panisse in Berkeley in 1971, few Americans were familiar with goat cheese, cappuccino, or mesclun. But it wasn't long before Waters and her motley coterie of dreamers inspired a new culinary standard incorporating ethics, politics, and the conviction that the best-grown food is also the tastiest. Based on unprecedented access to Waters and her inner circle, this is a truly delicious rags-to-riches saga.

Editorial Reviews Review

You can't tell the story of Chez Panisse, Berkeley's famed restaurant, without relating that of its diminutive founder, proprietor, and sometime chef, Alice Waters. This is what Thomas McNamee does most handily in his Alice Waters and Chez Panisse, a chronicle that begins with the seat-of-the-pants opening night of the "counterculture" venture in 1971, and ends 35 years later with Waters's restaurant an American institution--one credited with birthing California Cuisine, a style devoted to simplicity, freshness and seasonality. The book also limns, with tasty gossip, the ever-evolving Chez Panisse family, including the cook-artisans uniquely responsible for dish creation; follows the attempts, mostly failed, to put the restaurant on sound financial footing; shows how dishes and menus get made; and of course pursues Waters as she broadens her commitment to "virtuous agriculture" by establishing ventures like The Edible Schoolyard and The Yale Sustainable Food Project.

The success of Chez Panisse--Gourmet magazine named it the best American restaurant in 2002--has everything to do with Waters, yet she remains an elusive protagonist. Sophisticated yet naive, professional and amateur, hard-driving but emotionally blurry, she invites reader interest but doesn't always satisfy it, as least as presented here. If McNamee cannot quite bring her to life, and if his tale lacks an insider's full conversance with his subject, he still engages readers in the considerable drama of people finding their way--blunderingly, with talented intent--to something new. With menus, narrated recipes, and photographs throughout, the book is vital reading for anyone interested in food, period. --Arthur Boehm

From Publishers Weekly

Talk about dish: McNamee's book is a gossipy history of the famed restaurant and a biography of the individual behind its three-decade rise from humble beginnings to international renown. Alice Waters was a young, single American woman with strong, confident sense and vision but little experience in the restaurant business when she moved to Berkeley in the 1960s. She loved food and cooking, and dreamed of opening a restaurant; her passion and enthusiasm eventually produced a location, a crew and a clientele. The book chronicles the following decades with extensive detail from a behind-the-scenes viewpoint, going from stovetop to bedroom, from opening night right up through the restaurant's recent 35th anniversary. Larger-than-life personalities abound, but the primary focus is Waters, whose success occasionally comes across as attributable to accidents and other people as often as design. The author researched restaurant archives and interviewed dozens of willing subjects with Waters's approval, and the result is a mélange of reverential biography with restaurant and food history. Sidebars scattered throughout the text provide additional anecdotes and insight into Waters's favorite dishes. Serious foodies will devour this memoir. B&w photos. (Mar.)
Copyright © Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.

Product Details

  • File Size: 1336 KB
  • Print Length: 400 pages
  • Publisher: Penguin Books; Reprint edition (March 22, 2007)
  • Sold by: Penguin Group (USA) LLC
  • Language: English
  • Text-to-Speech: Enabled
  • X-Ray:
  • Word Wise: Enabled
  • Lending: Not Enabled
  • Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #267,258 Paid in Kindle Store (See Top 100 Paid in Kindle Store)
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Customer Reviews

Most Helpful Customer Reviews
65 of 68 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Not for Foodies only March 28, 2007
I've just finished this book and I have to say that it had more in it than I had bargained for when I first picked it up. I knew I wanted to read the story about America's most famous, most influential, and arguably most "important" restaurant, but I was delightfully surprised by two other things about it. First thing, I've never read a story laid out quite like this - the narrative voices (it's kind of an oral history of Chez Panisse but that doesn't really do this book justice) overlap, blend, and harmonize with each other, and that of the writer Thomas McNamee, in a seamless fashion which sweeps the reader along in a way I've never before experienced. Second, I had no real understanding of the value and values of the work of Alice Waters & crew, and how important they are in 21st century America. To take this restaurant from its beginnings as a kind of Mickey-and-Judy "Let's put on a Restaurant" venture all the way through the culinary flowering of our nation in the 80's, 90's and 00's, and to be a leader of the pack the entire time, is quite a feat for Alice. And to end up with her labors on behalf of Slow Food, environmental education, and responsible sustainability... well it's a path I wish more people would travel. Bravo and toques off to Alice Waters, all the staff who have worked at Chez Panisse over the years, and mostly to Thomas McNamee and his publisher who bring us this story which is at once a delight to read and a good message for us to hear.
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24 of 28 people found the following review helpful
3.0 out of 5 stars Saint Alice - hagiography of a restaurateur September 25, 2007
McNamee's book is an excellent read, no doubt. The story flows, the characters build, the plot thickens. I've been fortunate enough to often eat at Chez Panisse, particularly in its first 5 years, and had seen more than a few of the scenes the author, or one of his correspondents, describes. Alice's determination and pursuit of the best possible ingredient have always been remarkable. She's a Taurus, isn't she!

My only quibble is the rather overly respectful view McNamee takes of her. She's more a flesh and blood person than a saint, and the author might take that into account if he continues to plumb this vein of research.

All in all a fairly well researched and well written tome. Perhaps not as evocative as the chapter on Chez Panisse in David Kamp's, United States of Arugula, but a good book to open to any page & foster a laugh, a sigh or an hurrah!
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10 of 11 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars A terrific bok on many levels May 20, 2007
By Phil28
Format:Hardcover|Verified Purchase
As interesting as this book is about the founding and growth of Chez Panisse and about Alice Water's fascinating life, it's also about the creation and growth of California cuisine and the importance of the local farmer and sustainable ingredients. It's the antidote to Fast food Nation and provides some hope for healthier eating and the value of the small farmer. A terrific read that's wonderfully written.
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5 of 5 people found the following review helpful
4.0 out of 5 stars Great read! April 29, 2007
I thoroughly enjoyed this book and couldn't put it down. I enjoyed the way it was written, and especially the little tidbits of cooking info of some classic Chez Panisse recipes. It was well-researched and well-written and I enjoyed every minute of it.
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6 of 7 people found the following review helpful
Any foodie worth her sun-dried sea salt knows the name Alice Waters. Waters was the person who spearheaded the move to fresh, local produce that's grown sustainability and locally, and Chez Panisse is probably the most famous restaurant that most of us have never visited.

So I was particularly interested in Waters' story. I'm glad I read it, as I feel like I now know things that I ought to know... but I can't say that this is a Wow book. If you have the opportunity to read the book, do; but I don't think you have to drop everything to put it on the top of your Must Read pile.

Yes, Alice Waters created a revolution in the way that Americans, or at least food-conscious Americans, think about food. But she didn't set out to do so as though she was on a lifelong mission... she just wanted to open the sort of one-star Michelin restaurant that she had encountered across France. Through a set of remarkable happenstance (which makes me think simultaneously -- if oddly -- of both Forrest Gump and Connie Willis' Bellwether), Waters was always in the right place at the right time. The right person always showed up in her life, at the time needed. And -- here's a lesson far beyond foodiehood -- she repeatedly took disaster and turned it into opportunity.

For example, after she brought Italian wood fired pizza to the States (oh geez, she started *that* trend, too?), an oven started a huge fire. The restaurant had to be renovated in a hurry, so instead of recreating the small door between kitchen and dining room, she made a big open area... and began a trend towards the "open kitchen.
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3 of 3 people found the following review helpful
4.0 out of 5 stars Very interesting July 24, 2010
Format:Paperback|Verified Purchase
This was well-written and interesting - about a fascinating woman. I disagree with a previous reviewer's opinion that the author has painted Waters in a saint-like light. Many of the stories recounted certainly portray her as less than perfect, especially in her treatment of some of those closest to her, including her former husband. With all that she has accomplished, she is found to be just as human and with shortcomings like the rest of us.

The author seems to have gone to great pains to be very thorough and include a great deal of information, the book is filled quotes from those closest to Alice, there are menus reprinted from the earliest days onward, letters from friends and employees, stories taken from different sources (sometimes conflicting).

Overall I found it to be fairly balanced and a worthwhile read.
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Most Recent Customer Reviews
3.0 out of 5 stars Okay for an Alice Waters fan
More of a backstory of her personal life - more information than I wanted about her personally. Was a Book Club recommendation and I found it tedious and trivial.
Published 2 months ago by Sassy
5.0 out of 5 stars Five Stars
Great book.
Published 4 months ago by Marie
5.0 out of 5 stars Five Stars
Thank you
Published 4 months ago by john g egerton
5.0 out of 5 stars Five Stars
A collection of recipes from her restaurant in San Francisco, it is a fascinating read.
Published 7 months ago by Noel Rappe
5.0 out of 5 stars She has had her moments!
I really liked the writing style of this book. I have been curious about Alice Waters' life. I saw her interviewed on Charlie Rose's PBS program one time. Read more
Published 11 months ago by Rheta M.
5.0 out of 5 stars Another great food book with recipes from Alice Waters.
Purchased for my chef wife as a Xmas gift. She read it from cover to cover, makes some of the recipes, and loves the book and the author. I enjoy the meals. Read more
Published 17 months ago by Thomas W. Samarati
4.0 out of 5 stars Foreshadowing Food
This is an excellent biography. It is, on balance, a bit too adulatory, but it does an excellent job of keeping a pace and developing such that I was always eager to return and... Read more
Published 19 months ago by LiteraryTech
5.0 out of 5 stars Alice Waters', the real food guru
this is a great review of the new (then) approach to food and serving it - Alice Waters is an interesting character and she herself changes her focus as the "slow food"... Read more
Published 22 months ago by Sara S. Shane
3.0 out of 5 stars Inspired to experiment
Although I did not know a lot of the ingredients described, The book was an interesting account of what it takes to establish a restaurant. Read more
Published on February 19, 2013 by delay
5.0 out of 5 stars I love Alice Waters!
I love Alice Waters. This book is inspiring. Makes me want to preserve a healthier world-through organic foods. Read more
Published on November 25, 2011 by bjms
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More About the Author

I was born in 1947 in Memphis, Tennessee, and grew up there and in New York City. I studied writing at Yale under the tutelage of Robert Penn Warren.

I am the author of The Grizzly Bear (Knopf, 1984), Nature First: Keeping Our Wild Places and Wild Creatures Wild (Roberts Rinehart, 1987), A Story of Deep Delight (Viking, 1990), The Return of the Wolf to Yellowstone (Henry Holt, 1997)and Alice Waters and Chez Panisse: The Romantic, Impractical, Often Eccentric, Ultimately Brilliant Making of a Food Revolution (The Penguin Press, 2007). My latest book, THE MAN WHO CHANGED THE WAY WE EAT: CRAIG CLAIBORNE AND THE AMERICAN FOOD RENAISSANCE, was published in May 2012.

My essays, poems, and natural history writing have been published in Audubon, The New Yorker, Life, Natural History, High Country News, The New York Times, The Washington Post, Saveur, and a number of literary journals. I wrote the documentary film Alexander Calder, which was broadcast on the PBS 'American Masters' series in June 1998 and received both a George W. Peabody Award and an Emmy. Many of my book reviews have appeared The New York Times Book Review.

After twenty-three years in New York City and five in rural Montana, I have lived in San Francisco since 1998--albeit with frequent returns to New York and as much of every summer as possible in Montana.

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