The Alpine 4000m Peaks by the Classic Routes [Paperback]

Richard Goedeke (Author)

Book Description

Publication Date: September 1, 1991

Kari Blodig, who started the 4000 meter peak quest with his book is 1829, had identified 81 summits. However there were inconsistencies in the Blodig list. In 1994, a UIAA committee arbitrated on the obvious anomalies (some great multi-peak massifs had only their highest points noted, while other groups had every significant summit accredited). By using adjoining col depth as a guideline, the UIAA process settled on a new tally of 88 peaks. These not only took in the obvious heights of big peaks like Liskamm, Breithorn, Grand Combin, and Grandes Jonasses, but also drew attention to a number of proud individual rock gendarmes on the ridges of the higher peaks. In this second edition of his guide, Richard Goedeke has incorporated all the UIAA promoted peaks. In addition, he has noted seven extra summits that merit accreditation based on the new guidelines, and discusses the status of those listed that barely meet the criteria but are noted for other reasons. As some of the new peaks are easily reached in the process of other expeditions, their inclusion is largely academic. Other newly acclaimed summits bring an extra dimension to the 4000m list. The Grand Gendarme of the Weisshom, the Aiguilles du Diables on Mont Blanc du Tacul and the western summits of the Grandes Jorasses introduce new expeditions of considerable challenge to the 4000m odyssey.

--This text refers to an out of print or unavailable edition of this title.

Editorial Reviews

Language Notes

Text: English (translation)
Original Language: German --This text refers to an out of print or unavailable edition of this title.

From the Back Cover

The Alpine 4000-metre peaks, though lower than the mountains of the Himalaya or the Andes, tower higher above the snow line than many of the peaks in those ranges. It is this characteristic that has made the Alps one of the finest climbing regions in the world. To ascend its mountains by even their easiest routes involves expeditions of considerable challenge. Yet few of these routes require any great technical skill other than basic glacier, and snow and ice technique, a little rock climbing ability, and good mountain judgement. They range from the Bishorn which is little more than a straightforward snow plod up an easy glacier, to the dangerous and inaccessible Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey, splendidly situated amidst the savage grandeur of the steep, chaotic southern flank of Mont Blanc. The guide gives a full description of each climb with advice on maps and huts. A simple layout map is provided for each ascent together with useful photographs. Sixty-one mountains are described and completing all of these would represent an odyssey of climbing and adventure that will surely inspire novice and expert alike. (4 1/2 x 7 1/2, 240 pages, color photos, b&w photos)

See all Editorial Reviews

Product Details

• Paperback: 240 pages
• Publisher: Menasha Ridge Press; 1st edition (September 1, 1991)
• Language: English
• ISBN-10: 0897321111
• ISBN-13: 978-0897321112
• Product Dimensions: 8 x 5 x 0.8 inches
• Shipping Weight: 11.2 ounces
• Average Customer Review: 3.0 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (2 customer reviews)
• Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #2,541,952 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

More About the Author

Discover books, learn about writers, read author blogs, and more.

Customer Reviews

Most Helpful Customer Reviews

17 of 20 people found the following review helpful:

2.0 out of 5 stars Useful, but Limited, June 29, 2000

By 

Jim B Cavanaugh (Germany) - See all my reviews

This review is from: The Alpine 4000m Peaks by the Classic Routes (Paperback)

As an American, I found this guide to be disorganized and spotty. Each of the climbs IS well described, but there is no overview of the different areas, no large scale maps, or even an index. Maybe if you already know your way around the alps, this is adequate, but if you want to actually find out where in Switzerland the climb actually is, you'll be consulting other maps and guides.

Also, the use of the older rating system, with no real conversion, is disconcerting. How hard actually IS a 'peu difficile' climb? The translation is 'a little difficult', but for who?

Overall, the guide has good information on the climbs, but I found I had to supplement it with a hiking guide to orient me to the alps as a whole.

9 of 12 people found the following review helpful:

4.0 out of 5 stars Great carry-along over- view guide for The Alps., July 4, 1998

By A Customer

This review is from: The Alpine 4000m Peaks by the Classic Routes (Paperback)

Well laid out and presented. Gives a good general outline of the 4000m+ summits, the most popular routes taken to climb, and generally good descriptions of what to expect along the way, with cautions given to appropriate areas of the route, etc.

Bound as a pocket book with vinyl cover, makes a great take-along guide to throw in your pack.