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Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher (Mountaineers Outdoor Expert) Paperback – November 1, 2004


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Frequently Bought Together

Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher (Mountaineers Outdoor Expert) + Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills, 8th Edition
Price for both: $37.32

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Product Details

  • Series: Mountaineers Outdoor Expert
  • Paperback: 325 pages
  • Publisher: Mountaineers Books (November 1, 2004)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 0898867495
  • ISBN-13: 978-0898867497
  • Product Dimensions: 8.6 x 6.8 x 0.8 inches
  • Shipping Weight: 2 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
  • Average Customer Review: 4.7 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (18 customer reviews)
  • Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #215,865 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

Editorial Reviews

Review

"Every backcountry skier and ski mountaineer should have a copy of Alpine Climbing." -- Backcountry Magazine

"It's organized, step-by-step presentation of information on climbing techniques and strategies provides an effective learning experience." -- Rock & Ice

Outstanding technical guidance...concisely written, with little fluff to sidetrack the reader. -- Reno Gazette-Journal

[T]his book will help accelerate the learning process and good judgment learned through many days...spent in the mountains. -- Outside Bozeman

About the Author

Kathy Cosley and Mark Houston have been guides and climbing instructors for more than 20 years. In 1988, Kathy was the first American woman to climb the Eiger's North Face. Mark was among the first guides certified by the International Federation of Mountain Guides Association. Together, they made a lightweight and fast ascent of the South Face of Aconcagua.

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Customer Reviews

4.7 out of 5 stars
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See all 18 customer reviews
In all, a solid book that it would do to put on your bookshelf.
Read some
I was able to apply these techniques right away to advance my climbing skills.
Lisa Berntsen
Best of the Mountaineers Outdoors Series that I have read so far.
TK

Most Helpful Customer Reviews

22 of 22 people found the following review helpful By Ohio climber on December 27, 2004
Format: Paperback
This book hits the sweet spot between Freedom of the Hills and Mark Twight. Finally, a book for those of us who know the basics, maybe have done some guided mountaineering trips or novice routes, and already know how to rock climb, but need to know more in order to venture further on our own. The authors frame everything in terms of making decisions, which is very helpful when you are doing things for the first time. Good discussions of equipment, hazards, weather, navigation, and protective systems. The approach is very down to earth and practical.
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19 of 19 people found the following review helpful By Scott Shankle on August 10, 2005
Format: Paperback Verified Purchase
...but not to the extreme.

This book is the second chapter in an aspiring alpinists handbook. I found myself over the years amassing a pile of pooks on running, fittness*, nutrition*, supplements*, advanced rock climbing, ice climbing, crevasse rescue, orienteering*, navigation*, avalanche evaluation, etc. This book would have saved me a few bucks by putting alot of this in one place.

* = These are covered well in this book.

If you know Freedom of the Hills like the back ouf your hand, have Extreme Alpinism and a good book on slightly more advanced rock skills, don't bother. If not, get it.

Even with this book, you need a resource of some sort in avy eval and advanced rock/rope skills.
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9 of 10 people found the following review helpful By Read some on March 27, 2006
Format: Paperback
I agree with the reviewers above (below) that this book complements "Freedom of the Hills". In particular it focuses more on the decision making process than most books of these types. Although I've never traveled with either of the authors, they seem like lovely people and the stories they tell flesh them out for the reader. They also answered a question I had when I wrote them via email. In all, a solid book that it would do to put on your bookshelf.
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5 of 5 people found the following review helpful By Kapitan on November 15, 2005
Format: Paperback
The section on Common Problems with Decision Making was alone worthy the purchase!I could identify many issues and suggestions with my own experiences. Very well laid out book and a must read for anyone venturing into the sport of climbing, or those of us who wish to brush up on skills and ponder ways of continuous learning no matter the level of prior experience. One of definite climbing "bibles" written by people who do it for a living and are prepared to share their experiences and knowledge. Five stars IMHO!!! Happy climbing!
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Format: Paperback
Well, I am completely biased having climbed several times with Kathy. In practice, all her mountain judgment seems so seamless! One minute we're just chatting away and the next we're on an exposed ridgeline for five miles, still calm and collected. It's amazing how much judgment is about the conditions (the mountains and ours), and knowing how to read them correctly. One memorable experience was just killing some time during a complete whiteout, and seeing what was possible with a new GPS gizmo. Anyway, what I've learned from Kathy and this book? How to judge my limits far better than before. It's easy to get overconfident and stop thinking. When I'm alone in the mountains now, I actually pay attention and learn to retreat better. Those mountains will wait for another day -- although the glaciers may not!
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Format: Paperback
I bought this book because I had been out of alpine climbing for 10 years and I wanted to get back into it. The authors are professional mountain guides but more than that, alpine climbing seems to be an integral part of who they are. I picked up a lot of very helpful information that covers everything from training, to equipment and boot selection, to alpine travel and avalanche knowledge. It is very suited to the Sierra Nevada range, where I do most of my climbing. This is the best book I have found on the subject.
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By Norm Numerof on April 30, 2014
Format: Paperback
Absolutely buy this book. Buy it for all of your climbing partners. Read it and practice the techniques described in it. You will be a better and safer Alpine climber, and be able to confidently climb more ambitious routes. Any one of the chapters is more than worth the price. Clearly written, this book is destined to be a classic in mountaineering literature for decades to come. I have used the chapter on whiteout navigation as the basis for teaching backcountry peak skiing, and used it again last weekend as a reference for teaching a hard snow climbing clinic. Topics include decision-making in the alpine environment, equipment, special considerations and protection techniques for Alpine rock climbing, movement skills on snow and ice, glaciers, and some new tricks for crevasse rescue. Unless you are already a UIAGM certified mountain guide and have won a "Guides of the Year" award as they have, or have served as technical director and president of the American Mountain Guides Association as Mark Houston has, you'll definitely learn something new from this book. I frequently reread it. It is the Bible of alpine climbing.
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Format: Paperback Verified Purchase
Nothing beats an actual technical mountaineering course, but for those of us who have been to one, this book serves as a perfect reference.
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