Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher (Mountaineers Outdoor Expert) [Paperback]

Mark Houston (Author), Kathy Cosley (Author)

Book Description

Series: Mountaineers Outdoor Expert | Publication Date: November 2004

This intermediate-level guide addresses tools, skills, and techniques used in alpine terrain including rock, snow, ice, and glaciers at moderate altitude--approximately 5000 meters and lower. The technical protection systems are covered, of course. But 30 years of alpine climbing experience has convinced the authors that mastery--and safety--lie in the far more difficult task of knowing exactly which techniques to use, where and when. Therefore, they teach step-by-step decision making skills, providing scenarios, checklists, and self-posed questions to inform the decision process. Alpine Climbing assumes some prior knowledge, primarily in rock climbing skills and techniques. Basic knots, belaying, rappelling, building rock anchors, leading, placing rock protection, and movement skills on rock: variations of these skills that are of particular value in the alpine environment are addressed in this book.

Editorial Reviews

Review

"Every backcountry skier and ski mountaineer should have a copy of Alpine Climbing." -- Backcountry Magazine

"It's organized, step-by-step presentation of information on climbing techniques and strategies provides an effective learning experience." -- Rock & Ice

Outstanding technical guidance...concisely written, with little fluff to sidetrack the reader. -- Reno Gazette-Journal

[T]his book will help accelerate the learning process and good judgment learned through many days...spent in the mountains. -- Outside Bozeman

About the Author

Kathy Cosley and Mark Houston have been guides and climbing instructors for more than 20 years. In 1988, Kathy was the first American woman to climb the Eiger's North Face. Mark was among the first guides certified by the International Federation of Mountain Guides Association. Together, they made a lightweight and fast ascent of the South Face of Aconcagua.

Product Details

• Paperback: 325 pages
• Publisher: Mountaineers Books (November 2004)
• Language: English
• ISBN-10: 0898867495
• ISBN-13: 978-0898867497
• Product Dimensions: 8.6 x 6.8 x 0.8 inches
• Shipping Weight: 1.5 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
• Average Customer Review: 4.8 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (12 customer reviews)
• Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #79,664 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
  • #84 in Books > Sports & Outdoors > Mountaineering > Mountain Climbing

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Customer Reviews

Most Helpful Customer Reviews

21 of 21 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars Sweet spot between the basics and the extreme, December 27, 2004

By 

Ohio climber "Ohio climber" (Ohio) - See all my reviews

This review is from: Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher (Mountaineers Outdoor Expert) (Paperback)

This book hits the sweet spot between Freedom of the Hills and Mark Twight. Finally, a book for those of us who know the basics, maybe have done some guided mountaineering trips or novice routes, and already know how to rock climb, but need to know more in order to venture further on our own. The authors frame everything in terms of making decisions, which is very helpful when you are doing things for the first time. Good discussions of equipment, hazards, weather, navigation, and protective systems. The approach is very down to earth and practical.

17 of 17 people found the following review helpful:

4.0 out of 5 stars Climb harder than Freedom of the Hills..., August 10, 2005

By 

Scott Shankle (Memphis, TN USA) - See all my reviews
(REAL NAME)   

This review is from: Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher (Mountaineers Outdoor Expert) (Paperback)

...but not to the extreme.

This book is the second chapter in an aspiring alpinists handbook. I found myself over the years amassing a pile of pooks on running, fittness*, nutrition*, supplements*, advanced rock climbing, ice climbing, crevasse rescue, orienteering*, navigation*, avalanche evaluation, etc. This book would have saved me a few bucks by putting alot of this in one place.

* = These are covered well in this book.

If you know Freedom of the Hills like the back ouf your hand, have Extreme Alpinism and a good book on slightly more advanced rock skills, don't bother. If not, get it.

Even with this book, you need a resource of some sort in avy eval and advanced rock/rope skills.

8 of 8 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars good book, well thought out, March 27, 2006

By 

Read some "reader" (Durham, NC) - See all my reviews

This review is from: Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher (Mountaineers Outdoor Expert) (Paperback)

I agree with the reviewers above (below) that this book complements "Freedom of the Hills". In particular it focuses more on the decision making process than most books of these types. Although I've never traveled with either of the authors, they seem like lovely people and the stories they tell flesh them out for the reader. They also answered a question I had when I wrote them via email. In all, a solid book that it would do to put on your bookshelf.