Arthur Schwartz's New York City Food: An Opinionated History and More Than 100 Legendary Recipes [Hardcover]

Arthur Schwartz (Author), Chris Callis (Photographer)

Book Description

Publication Date: November 1, 2004

Arthur Schwartz is the Big Apple's official foodie-about-town, the Schwartz who ate New York City, a fellow who has fork-and-knived his way through the five boroughs. He knows his knish from his kasha, his bok choy from his bruschetta, his falafel from his frittata. And in "Arthur Schwartz's New York City Food, he shares his gastronomic expertise, chronicling the city's culinary history from its Dutch colonial start (think crullers and coleslaw) to its current status as the multicultural food capital of the world. For good measure, Schwartz also includes 160 recipes for American classics that either originated or were perfected in New York: Manhattan Clam Chowder, Eggs Benedict, Lindy's cheesecake, Lobster Newburg.
Schwartz is not only informed, he's funny, and throughout the book he covers everything from the phenomenon of the celebrity chef to his first meeting with James Beard. His text is transporting, taking readers back to Delmonico's, the Colony, the Horn & Hardart Automats, and the once-popular Childs Restaurant with its renowned buttery pancakes. Whether revealing how an obscure dish known as Omelet Surprise was transformed into the decidedly chichi dessert Baked Alaska; investigating why some Jewish restaurants came to be known as Roumanian steakhouses; or instructing readers on the way to bake a molten chocolate minicake worthy of Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Schwartz is the ideal dining companion.

Editorial Reviews

From Publishers Weekly

Chapters on New York City’s massive ethnic influences ("The Jews," "The Italians," "The Chinese") mingle with ones on various kinds of eating establishments ("Grand Hotel Dining," "Steakhouses," "Hot Dogs") and with sections on "The Corner Bakery" and "The Golden Age of Cocktails" in this sumptuous celebration of Gotham’s cuisine. Schwartz, a native New Yorker, has been dishing about the city’s food for years on the radio, and here he catalogs dishes that are known the world over as well as ones that are nearly extinct. He reveals, for example, that only one bakery—in Brooklyn—still makes Nesselrode Pie, a "glorious mound of chocolate-curl-covered rum-, chestnut-, and candied-fruit-flavored Bavarian cream," and that New York Cheesecake is a descendent of the cheesecakes of Eastern Europe. He also includes concise profiles of famous New York foodies, like New York Times critic Craig Claiborne and Lutèce chef-proprietor André Soltner. Scintillating photographs of culinary delights such as Lobster Newberg (created at Delmonico’s in the mid-1870s) and Biscuit Tortoni (which, before "the tiramisu explosion," was one of the city’s most popular Italian-American desserts) complete this delightful volume.
Copyright © Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.

About the Author

Native New Yorker Arthur Schwartz has an encyclopedic knowledge of the city's aromas and tastes. Currently New York's foremost radio food expert, he was also the longtime executive food editor and critic of the New York Daily News. His previous books include Naples at Table: Cooking in Campania (HarperCollins) and What to Cook When You Think There's Nothing in the House to Eat (Ecco). Schwartz grew up in Brooklyn, where he lives today.

Chris Callis has been a professional photographer for more than 30 years. He is the photographer of Alvin Ailey Dance Moves (STC) and Maury Rubin's Book of Tarts (William Morrow), among other titles.

Product Details

• Hardcover: 400 pages
• Publisher: Stewart, Tabori and Chang; First Edition edition (November 1, 2004)
• Language: English
• ISBN-10: 158479397X
• ISBN-13: 978-1584793977
• Product Dimensions: 9.6 x 1.3 x 10.3 inches
• Shipping Weight: 3.6 pounds
• Average Customer Review: 4.9 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (17 customer reviews)
• Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #908,737 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

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Most Helpful Customer Reviews

48 of 50 people found the following review helpful

5.0 out of 5 stars Nostalgia, recipes, and history -- all well done July 30, 2005

By Esther Schindler TOP 500 REVIEWERVINE™ VOICE

Format:Hardcover

New York City Food is clearly aimed at those who grew up in New York, and I must include myself among them. Schwartz brings back the memories of the food we (and our parents) grew up with, and provides plenty of history that we never knew.

In 21 chapters, Arthur Schwartz covers NYC's food history. For example, a whole chapter is devoted to Delmonico's, which brought us such well-known dishes as the Delmonico steak, Delmonico potatoes, eggs benedict,and lobster newburg; the restaurant introduced the upper crust to such newfangled ingredients as eggplant and artichokes. The restaurant was important as a see-and-be-seen destination, but its less obvious influences are longer-lasting: it was the first successful a la carte restaurant in the U.S.

Five chapters are devoted to the food and influences of the major (and many) immigrants who came to New York City: the Germans (from delicatessens to Luchows), the Jews (the interview with Sol Kaplan, the original owner of Guss' Pickles, may make the book worth the purchase price), Italians, Irish, Chinese -- you get the idea. Other chapters focus on something historical or quintessentially New York: hot dogs, the glamour years (including the 21 Club), the golden age of cocktails.

Schwartz gives plenty of fun history -- at least it's fun if you have your own memories of Dinty Moore's, or remember your Mom wishing she could go to the Rainbow Room -- as well as a wonderful business and social context (such as the low regard with which the Irish were held in the 1800s, or why Diamond Jim was such a major figure in the City).

Even better, he provides recipes for many of the dishes that make New Yorkers most nostalgic. Everything from the original Thousand Island Dressing (introduced at the Waldorf) to a good knish. I haven't tried any of these, but they do make me swoon. (NYC has a reputation for pizza and bagels; the truth is you can get good versions of these in most major cities. Pickles and knishes, though -- that's another matter.)

All in all, it's entertaining and interesting -- and a lovely way to bring yourself back to childhood. It'll be a likely present for one of my sisters, who lives in California now; it's probably a good present for any of your ex-NYer friends, too.

Would it be as useful for a non-New Yorker? Not quite as much so. My husband grew up on a midwestern farm. Although he lived in NY for a couple of years, and he likes _New York City Food_, this book isn't quite as compelling for him.

31 of 35 people found the following review helpful

5.0 out of 5 stars This book is phenomenal! November 19, 2004

By Karen Adams

Format:Hardcover

It is the perfect gift for any New Yorker, former New Yorker, or wannabe NYer. I bought one for myself, showed it to my dad, and now I have to order another one for myself. I just love it - the photos and text are wonderful, and the recipes are an added treat. Arthur put so much work into this book, and I can honestly say it is a masterpiece! I am planning on bringing a copy to one of his appearances to get autographed.

14 of 14 people found the following review helpful

5.0 out of 5 stars great recipes July 31, 2006

By datura2002 VINE™ VOICE

Format:Hardcover

The history parts are interesting, and doubtless many people will buy the book for those alone. Just wanted to say that the recipes are excellent too - I've made the Blackout Cake, the Red Velvet Cake, and the Crumb Cake so far. All had excellent flavor and texture, and I'm looking forward to trying other recipes from this book, esp. the Lindy's cheesecake and Junior's cheesecake.