| Part Number : | TIMERSWITCH |
| Color: | White |
| Item Package Quantity: | 1 |
| Batteries Included?: | Yes |
Product Details
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Most Helpful Customer Reviews
23 of 24 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars
Great switch,
By
This review is from: Aube by Honeywell TI033/U 7-Day Programmable Timer Switch, White (Tools & Home Improvement)
I installed more of these timers after a lighting guy used one doing our landscape lighting. I've used Intermatic wall timers before and had them crap out on me. These switches are reliable, easy to program, and discreet when replacing a normal wall switch.
16 of 16 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars
Excellent! Much better than intermatic st01c,
By
Amazon Verified Purchase(What's this?)
This review is from: Aube by Honeywell TI033/U 7-Day Programmable Timer Switch, White (Tools & Home Improvement)
I used this to replace my ST01C, controlling a whole house fan. The ST01C has a problem that it would randomly reset the clock to 12:00. This is much better with a neutral line. It's also easier to program. Highly recommended.
15 of 15 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars
Excellent timer switch so far,
Amazon Verified Purchase(What's this?)
This review is from: Aube by Honeywell TI033/U 7-Day Programmable Timer Switch, White (Tools & Home Improvement)
The timer switch I am talking about is the TI033/U 7-Day Programmable Timer Switch. It requires a neutral wire. Unlike TI032 or TI034, it has NO minimum wattage requirements so that it can be used to control a single CFL light. Also, it can NOT be used to replace a 3-way switch. It can only replace a single-pole switch. If you want to replace a 3-way switch, you need to use a model that has a -3W (3-Way). Remember that all the Aube 3-way timer switches have a minimum wattage requirement of 40W, but they do not require a neutral wire, and they can replace a single-pole switch as well as a 3-way switch. All the Aube timer switches that do not have a minimum wattage requirement requires a neutral wire. BE SURE TO FIND THE CORRECT MODEL FOR YOUR USE BEFORE PURCHASE. My following comment (No. 3) may give you a hint as to know whether or not you have a neutral wire. (BTW: 3-way switches always come in pairs, meaning two switches control the same lights).
I've been using this switch for three weeks. Not a single problem found yet. Once you identify the three wires in your switch box (line, load, and neutral), it is very easy to install and program. A good thing I really like is that you can program it to turn on any time before mid-night and to turn off after mid-night the next day. Some other timers will be messed up if you program it across different days. Switching it between a regular manual switch and an automatic timer is also convenient by pressing the cover for 3 seconds. If you want to temporarily turn it on or off under automatic mode, you simply hit the cover like a regular switch, and it goes back to automatic mode at the next programmed on or off event. The "on" or "off" will flash if it is at a temporary manual mode, which is the one that I don't like very much. Wall plate is not included. You need to buy it separately. The timer switch fits into a standard size GFCI opening. Highly recommend to use a multimeter to check the wires in your switch box if you are not sure which one is which, especially if you have a combination switch box. Wrong wiring can hurt you and damage the switch. How to find the three required wires in your switch box: 1. Line is the power source (hot wire) from your switch box, normally black color but not always. It will be connected to the black wire of the timer switch so that power will come into your switch from the power source. Line is located "upstream" to your timer switch. Voltage between line and ground wire is 110-120 V whether the switch is on or off. Verify with a multimeter. 2. Load is the wire that allows power to go out of your timer switch to your lights, normally black color but not always. It will be connected to the blue wire of the timer switch, and it will be located "downstream" to your switch. Voltage between load and ground wire is 110-120 V when the switch is on, and is close to zero when the switch is off. Verify with a multimeter. 3. Neutral is the wire that comes out of your lights (not switch) and is located "downstream" to your lights in the return circuit. It will be connected to the white wire of the timer switch. Not every house has a neutral, but if it has, the neutral wire is normally white. If you see two or three white wires connected together by a wire nut, they are very likely neutral wires. Neutral wire is grounded, but it is separate from ground wire in most houses built the last 10-15 years. If you see bare copper wires wrapped together, they are ground wires, not neutral wires. Since neutral wires are grounded, voltage between neutral and ground wires is zero. The only way to make sure your white wires are neutral and are not hot, is to use a multimeter to measure the voltage between the white wires and the ground wires. Of course, you need to know your ground wires are properly grounded by measuring voltage between the ground wires and the ground (should be zero). Important: NEVER use electrical tape to connect wires in switch box. It is a fire hazard. Code requires proper size wire nuts. ALWAYS cut off power supply from breaker before working on switch box.
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