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Balzac's Omelette: A Delicious Tour of French Food and Culture with Honore'de Balzac [Hardcover]

Anka Muhlstein
3.5 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (28 customer reviews)

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Book Description

October 11, 2011
"Tell me where you eat, what you eat, and at what time you eat, and I will tell you who you are." This is the motto of Anka Muhlstein’s erudite and witty book about the ways food and the art of the table feature in Honoré de Balzac’s The Human Comedy. Balzac uses them as a connecting thread in his novels, showing how food can evoke character, atmosphere, class, and social climbing more suggestively than money, appearances, and other more conventional trappings.

Full of surprises and insights, Balzac’s Omelette invites you to taste anew Balzac’s genius as a writer and his deep understanding of the human condition, its ambitions, its flaws, and its cravings.

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Editorial Reviews

Review

“This effervescent volume celebrates Balzac’s use of gastronomy as a literary device and social critique.” —The New Yorker
 
“Fabulous . . . worth nibbling on, as prelude or accompaniment to the pièce de résistance, ‘The Human Comedy.’” —New York Times Book Review
 
Balzac’s Omelette . . . is a charming and modest little book.” —New York Review of Books

“Muhlstein uses Balzac as a guide to the French culinary scene of the 19th century in a literary analysis that is original, delectable and entirely readable.” —The Washington Post

“This scholarly yet escapist book explores how French cuisine influenced Honoré de Balzac’s genius… irresistible.”  —Daily Beast

“An absorbing and insightful portrait of Balzac…and of the role that food played in 19th-century France.” —Wall Street Journal

“Muhlstein’s gastronomic and cultural tour of 19th-century France is concocted from food references in Balzac’s work.” —Entertainment Weekly

“Felicitous phrasing, a scholar’s sage scope, and enormous fondness for Balzac’s panoply of characters mark this charming, intimate look at the French novelist’s depiction of the highs and lows of 19th-century French society, as reflected in its culinary offerings... Muhlstein delves lovingly into Balzac’s characters, misers and gluttons alike, and finds the presentation of food an important indicator of social status, and well-cooked food equal to a woman’s love.” —Publishers Weekly

“The story of post-Revolution food in Paris and the rise of food as a literary metaphor, as told through Balzac’s work…Not just for French lit majors—honest.” —France Magazine

“Like the many feasts it describes—historical and fictional—this book presents readers with course after course, carefully crafted to appeal to palates with a taste for history, biography, or literary criticism…Well written and thorough, this title will appeal most to students of French history, lovers of Balzac and his writings, and those with a deep interest in food history...” —Library Journal

“‘Balzac brought meals into literature,’ writes Anka Muhlstein, delivering up an elegant, mouthwatering feast.  Here is food as characterization, as preoccupation, as consolation—a gastronomic tour of 19th century France in which Balzac serves as headwaiter.” —Stacy Schiff, author of Cleopatra: A Life

“Alimentarians great and humble will want to own, read, and reread Balzac’s gastronomic tour of nineteenth-century Paris and the provinces, reconstructed from his food-infused novels with delicacy and brilliance by Anka Muhlstein.” —Jason Epstein, Eating: A Memoir

“This is a superb book, a delightful plunge into 19th century French culture and life in all its glory, a real page turner.  If you love books, the art of writing, or dinner parties, if you revel in France, if travel and culture are your thing, Balzac’s Omelette will please you more than any other book this season. Bon appétit!André Bernard, author of Now All We Need Is a Title and Bartlett’s Book of Anecdotes

“Reading Balzac's Omelette is like going to a party where all the guests are brilliant and entertaining, the food is exquisite, and you wish it would never end.” —Jeanne Martinet, author of The Art of Mingling

“For anyone who loves to read, or eat, or both, Anka Muhlstein’s terrific Balzac’s Omelette is a must: the historian takes on the evolution of food in fiction—specifically Balzac’s—with results that I could (but won’t) call mouth-watering. I’m a total food-history nerd, but I don’t think you’d need to be to enjoy what’s ultimately a treatise on the making of modern French culture.” —Sadie Stein, The Paris Review Daily

“Anka Muhlstein folds wit into scholarship as easily as breaking an egg. Let us now join hands and say grace for her brilliant and beguiling Balzac’s Omelette.” —Patricia Volk, author of Stuffed and To My Dearest Friends

Balzac’s Omelette is perhaps less of an omelette than a light and charming soufflé. Or perhaps a meze, where you can pick and choose among choice bits of information or anecdote at will. And ultimately it has the effect of awakening your appetite for more than food…sending you back to the bookshelf to reread Balzac’s novels themselves.” –The East Hampton Star

About the Author

Anka Muhlstein was born in Paris in 1935. She has published biographies of Queen Victoria, James de Rothschild, Cavelier de La Salle, and Astolphe de Custine, a study on Catherine de Médicis, Marie de Médicis, and Anne of Austria, and a double biography, Elizabeth I and Mary Stuart. She is currently writing a volume on Proust as a reader. She has won two prizes from the Académie Française and the Goncourt Prize for Biography. She and her husband, Louis Begley, have written a book on Venice, Venice for Lovers. They live in New York.
 
Adriana Hunter studied French and Drama at the University of London. She has translated nearly forty books including works by Agnès Desarthe, Amélie Nothomb, Frédéric Beigbeder, Véronique Ovaldé, and Catherine Millet, and has been short-listed for the Independent Foreign Fiction Prize twice. She lives in Norfolk, England.

Product Details

  • Hardcover: 256 pages
  • Publisher: Other Press; First Edition edition (October 11, 2011)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 1590514734
  • ISBN-13: 978-1590514733
  • Product Dimensions: 6.1 x 0.9 x 7.1 inches
  • Shipping Weight: 14.1 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)
  • Average Customer Review: 3.5 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (28 customer reviews)
  • Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #187,738 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

Customer Reviews

Most Helpful Customer Reviews
27 of 28 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Diminutive In Size, Grand In Scope October 16, 2011
Format:Hardcover|Amazon Vine™ Review (What's this?)
There are many ways to enjoy this book. It's not just for Balzac enthusiasts and fanciers of French literature; it's also for Francophiles, food connoisseurs, oenophiles, history habitués, and people watchers. Muhlstein combines her astute observations into Balzac's characters with Balzac's keen insights into human behaviors centered around the table.

Entirely erudite, Muhlstein has studiously ingested Balzac's stories to become versed in the finer nuances concering cuisine: right bank VS left; Paris VS the countryside; class differences; dining and food customs pre- and post-Restoration. Flaubert, Maupassant and Zola are also represented, all of whom "had very different views - in their work, the transition from table to bed is ever present." (190)

Chapter One, "Balzac At Mealtimes," a brief biography of Balzac's life details how his formative years and later his financial obligations influenced his eating preferences. "An ascetic then, our Balzac? In a sense, yes. But not always. Once the proofs were passed for press, he sped to a restaurant, downed a hundred oysters as a starter, washing them down with four bottles of white wine, then ordered the rest of the meal." The bounty of foods that Balzac then consumed are listed. "Once sated, he usually sent the bill to his publishers." (18)

In the brief biography, and later, Muhlstein refers to Balzac's childhood that had been absent of maternal care. "Now that is Balzac's idea of gastronomic paradise, a paradise derived from `a mother's care.' Balzac was over forty when he wrote this novel, and had apparently still not recovered from his own mother's coldness. For once, he describes a meal that is exceptional for the care that has been put into preparing it..." (185)

Content was interesting and even amusing at times, as both Balzac and Muhlstein intended. Soup stocks, the care of French table linens (Paris VS the countryside), plinths made of lard for displaying food - virtually no detail has been omitted. Yet, oddly, I found myself engrossed in the particulars. "Balzac was so interested in stock that he did not abandon the subject before mentioning a different type that Jacquotte prepares, snail stock, which has such invigorating qualities that the doctor takes some to his patients. This remedy was so frequently used at the time that Careme provided a recipe for it: take twelve snails and four dozen frogs' legs, and poach them in water with leeks and small turnips. Strain the stock, color it with saffron, and drink it morning and evening." (130-131)

Numerous vintage illustrations, photographs and drawings round out the text. There are 162 footnotes at the back to credit the many quotes from the works of Balzac and others. The text has been skillfully translated from the French by Adriana Hunter.

Every time I picked up this "delicious tour of French food and culture," I found myself liking it more and more. "Cousin Pons is a true food lover, quite lip-smackingly so. He is no cook, does not claim the least technical knowledge, and has never had to guide a chef or to cook for himself. He has always eaten in other people's houses." (169) A petite, but lip-smackingly palatable book!
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18 of 19 people found the following review helpful
3.0 out of 5 stars Detailed and Scholarly Literary Analysis November 22, 2011
Format:Hardcover|Amazon Vine™ Review (What's this?)
My first assumption was that this small scale (approx. 6" x 7") hardcover book would be the perfect hostess gift. The sub-title: "A Delicious Tour of French Food and Culture with Honore de Balzac" suggested a lovely little book that was beautifully illustrated and filled with fascinating and amusing quotes on French cuisine by a Pantheon of French authors. Upon closer examination, I realized I was completely mistaken. The author, Anka Muhlstein has written a detailed and erudite examination of the history of cuisine in early 19th century France, specifically as it is described in the literature of that time.

This is not to say that this book would not make a good gift, but it would be best served to someone who was more Mastering the Art of French Cooking (2 Volume Set) and courses at Le Cordon Bleu rather than Gourmet Cooking for Dummies, if you catch my drift. It would also help if the giftee had studied French literature at some point. What I am saying is that this is not a book for simple browsing; it is informative and interesting but only if you have read at least some of the works of Honore Balzac, Gustave Flaubert, Alexandre Dumas, Emile Zola and are somewhat familiar with the school of French realism. Otherwise, I am afraid you will probably find it slow and tedious going.

At first I found the translation from the original French a bit unnatural or stilted but I quickly became used to the rhythm and syntax. Muhlstein covers a lot of ground first describing the history of cuisine in France prior to and after the Revolution and then illustrating how Balzac, Flaubert and other contemporary authors use a detailed portrayal of what and how a character eats as an important aspect of personality analysis. In short, you are what you eat and food is an important literary metaphor.

Other reviewers have criticized some of the facts in this book but I found it to be well documented (over 21 pages of footnotes) and scholarly. I did lose my way several times, getting overwhelmed by multiple references to numerous characters and stories within Balzac's Human Comedy: was La Tonsard in The Peasantry? Mme Rigou, who's cooking represents Balzac's ideal, appears but where? And wait, isn't A Sentimental Education by Flaubert? Yes, of course, pay attention or you'll lose your way. It has been a while since I last read Balzac, I must admit.

I did learn a lot of interesting things: the birth and evolution of the restaurant, the changing order in which various foods were served and consumed, the times of day meals were eaten, and how the Revolution changed culinary traditions.
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11 of 11 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars This book is filled with fascinating information October 19, 2011
Format:Hardcover|Amazon Vine™ Review (What's this?)
This book focuses on Honore de Balzac (1799-1850), one of France's greatest novelists, and the adage, which seems to be true, "Tell me where you eat, what you eat, and at what time you eat, and I will tell you who you are." It includes fascinating information about France during Balzac's lifetime, and French eating places and foods. Balzac, a fat man for most of his life, lived during the time of Napoleon and the French Revolution, when for the first time France began to become interested in good food and restaurants. He was the first to use food in his novels to evoke character, atmosphere, class, and to describe how a household is managed, and social climbing. He also uses foods and drinks to depict character, as when he portrays a starchy Duke as: "good wine, but so tightly corked up that you break your corkscrews." He also described a woman as "the pepper, the spice, the alchohol in a golden goblet." Many novelists after him followed his technique, and Muhlstein shows us examples.

Muhlstein, the prize-winning author of other biographies, describes Balzac's somewhat bizarre life and gives interesting tid bits (this word actually means bits of food) about Balzac. For example, he was only able to eat very little as a youngster. He would rather eat an apple standing up than sitting down to a badly served meal. When he became a famous writer, he would eat little while writing, but gorge himself after he finished his book, "he sped to a restaurant, downed a hundred oysters as a starter, washing them down with four bottles of white wine, then ordered the rest of the meal: twelve salt meadow lamb cutlets, with no sauce, a duckling with turnips, a brace of roast partridge, a Normandy sole," not to mention dozens of deserts. Muhlstein describes many other fascinating facts, such as how the French habits of eating dramatically changed after the French Revolution, how cheese and calves liver were not valued as foods and were considered a poor man's food during Balzac's lifetime, how Balzac, contrary to most thinkers, did not think even equisite foods a prelude to love, and how King Louis XVIII was so fond of food that he allowed himself to grow too fat to stand without support. Readers will enjoy this book and like the information Muhlstein presents.
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Most Recent Customer Reviews
4.0 out of 5 stars An intriguing look into the past
Balzac’s Omelette is for people who appreciate food, restaurants, and the history of dining. If you liked the BBC series, “Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner,” you’ll like this book. Read more
Published 3 months ago by John Oehler
4.0 out of 5 stars Balzac's Omelette.
Balzac's Omelette is a delightful reading,a true picture of that time in France, cultural and gastronomic. I can highly recommend it.
Published 5 months ago by george
3.0 out of 5 stars Read Balzac first
Maybe I should have read Balzac's works first before attempting to read this book because most of the time the reference is lost on me. Read more
Published 6 months ago by Emily D. Agunod
3.0 out of 5 stars A canape, not a whole meal
There are delights in this book. The book itself, as an object is beautifully done, with fine, funny petite illustrations, and the narrative voice is charmant. Read more
Published 8 months ago by Words&Music
3.0 out of 5 stars Reads Like A Masters Thesis
This book is not a tour of French food or culture whatsoever. It is essentially an argument advancing the idea that the way people prepare food is indicative of their characters... Read more
Published 9 months ago by DJY51
3.0 out of 5 stars Interesting Book
This book contains an interesting history of French food/cuisine and how one author utilized it in his works and life. Read more
Published 10 months ago by Emily
5.0 out of 5 stars Not a feast of words...
In Dickens' novels, we can usually guess a character's temperament by the name he is given. Scrooge--choked and sparing of even an extra syllable; Uriah Heap, a pissy little cur... Read more
Published 14 months ago by NyiNya
3.0 out of 5 stars Interesting little book
I'll admit I had never heard of Balzac until I read this book, but as a Francophile I really enjoyed it. Read more
Published 16 months ago by Isadore Ann
2.0 out of 5 stars Balzac's Scrambled Eggs
Not much about Balzac's favorite foods or description of particular dishes. More about the development of public eating places after the Revolution. Somewhat disappointing to me.
Published 16 months ago by george gayle stephens
3.0 out of 5 stars Hard-going unless you are a real Balzac afficionado!
Despite the slow start, if you are interested in food history you'll find Balzac's Omelette a valuable resource. Read more
Published 16 months ago by Grandma
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