Customer Reviews

The Basque Kitchen: Tempting Food from the Pyrenees

5 star:		(9)
4 star:		(2)
3 star:		(1)
2 star:		(1)
1 star:		(4)

 

 

So Seared Ahi Tuna Steaks with Onion Marmalade and Lentils is Basque? Because there's tuna in it and the Basque dish, Marmitako, is also based on tuna (bluefin tuna, by the way)? No. Mr. Hirigoyen's dish, which can be perfectly OK, is the typical French/Californian concoction with maybe a touch of Asian in it. Again: very fine, but Mr. Hirigoyen should avoid using the misleading word, "Basque", in the title. The Basque Country is about 85% on the Spanish side of the border, south of the Pyrenees and the Bidasoa river. While the "Spanish Basque" chefs have remained adamantly Basque, and have indeed "Basquified" to a large extent all of modern Spanish cookery, the "French Basque" chefs have let themselves, for many decades, become thoroughly "Frenchified", learning in French culinary schools and following the edicts of classic French cuisine. This becomes apparent in Mr. Hirigoyen's constant use of butter, not to mention many of his techniques.

One of the top two chefs now working in Iparralde (i.e. the French part of the Basque Country), Christian Parra of L'Auberge de la Galupe in Urt (the other is Firmin Arrambide, of Les Pyrénées in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port), once told the French magazine Gault-Millau: "You know why the Spanish Basque chefs are better and more creative than we are? Because we all have a well-worn copy of Escoffier's cook next to our kitchen, and the Spanish Basques haven't even heard of Escoffier."

Jokes aside, Parra and Arrambide are now the leaders because they have rejoined the overall Basque movement led by Juan Mari Arzak of Donostia (San Sebastián): a return to the Basque sources (and some important Spanish ones, like Jabugo ham and virgin olive oil) to start creating from them and not from Paris-inspired fashions, products and techniques.

I have the impression that Mr. Hirigoyen left the Basque Country before this movement took off on the French side of the border, before French Basque chefs became Basque again. His ignorance of southern (Spanish) Basque recipes and culinary traditions, which represent a large majority of the Basque cooking heritage, is rather amazing, as other reviewers have pointed out.

By the way, in case anyone's interested: I am a journalist, and occasionally a wine and food writer, based in Spain, but with extensive experience in France and the United States. So I think I know what I'm writing about in this case.

I scanned Mr. Hirigoyen's book and did not buy it, even though I am always on the lookout for books on the cuisines of Spain and Spain's Basque Country. What put me off was the recipe for patatas a la riojana, which called for no chorizo and included butter and white pepper (as did many of the so-called Spanish Basque recipes). Patatas a la riojano just happens to be one of my favorite folk dishes in Spain. As the name implies, it comes from the great Spanish wine region, La Rioja, which also has a Basque section, La Rioja Alavesa. In my trips to La Rioja, probably 30 by now, I have had patatas a la riojana numerous times, never without chorizo. In fact, patatas a la riojana is also known by its more common name, patatas con chorizo. I have also helped make bacalao al pil-pil and I can assure you, there is nothing easy about the versions I have seen made, contrary to Mr. Hirigoyen's assertions. As a widely-published writer on the wines of Spain, I was shocked by Mr. Hirigoyen's lack of knowledge about the wines of the Spanish Basque Country. As to French Basque food, perhaps the book is much stronger, but I know little about the subject. Spain and France, Basque or not, are much different in their approach to food, IMHO

I'm a tough customer for cookbooks, but this one is a winner on many fronts for me. The recipes are exciting and different from the many other European regional cookbooks, the history is interesting, the photos are beautiful, and best of all for me, the recipes are nearly fool-proof. I delighted my friends one night recently with the lamb stew - fabulous - and my husband has made the haricots verts salad a staple in our home. The gateau basque and chocolate "rocks" are both unforgettably wonderful. I highly recommend the book to anyone interested in adding some wonderful new flavors to their kitchen.

Hirigoyen should have based his book on the french basque recepies and left the spanish basque recepies to the ones who know better. I have not seen a single spanish basque dish in the book that is authentic! Hirigoyen should know that we never cook with butter and white pepper.

Three years ago my son gave me a copy of The Basque Kitchen, written by his good friend Gerald Hirogoyen. The book has sat on my coffee table ever since, and whenever I am in the mood for something challenging and different, I have been trying out some of its recipes.
Then, a few days ago, my son treated me to a memorable dinner at Gerald's restaurant in San Francisco, "Piperade," which features many of the delectable dishes described in his book, and I had a chance not only to meet this kind and gentle chef but to sample firsthand his culinary skill with genuine
Basque cuisine.
The restaurant itself is a delightful place, its decor simple and rustic yet warm and friendly -- like the Basque people and countryside itself. We were treated like royalty and feasted on various Basque specialties: lamb chops with roasted Macheco cheese and potatoes, steak with mushrooms, fish with asparagus, and white wine from Gerald's own vineyards in Penedes, Catalunya.
Because my son and I lived in Spain for 13 years, we have visited all four of the Basque provinces, enjoying the beautiful Pyrenees mountains, the local culture, and their native foods. Lamb barbequed over an open hearth oven and bacalao (codfish) were special favorites.
Having worked my way through college as a part-time cook, I thoroughly relished reading about and then experimenting with many of the recipes. I found the directions easy to follow and, while my results may not have reached the perfection of Gerald's restaurant offerings, everything I prepared was tantalizingly tasty. A true gourmet delight! My personal favorites are stuffed squid in its ink, lamb chops, steak, steamed red snapper, and honey-glazed spare ribs, to mention only a few.
Anyone who has been fortunate enough to visit the Basque region will enjoy recreating some of its culinary specialties, and anyone willing to experiment with new tastes and techniques will consider The Basque Kitchen a real find.

I have seen the book in a bookstore but i haven't bought it because i was very surprised to see that the Spanish Basque recipes are anything but authentic: "patatas a la riojana" is NEVER cooked with butter and the main ingredient is "chorizo sausage" which is missing in Hirigoyen's recipe. "Bacalao pil-pil" will never work if you follow the recipe in the book because you will need more olive oil for that amount of cod and onion is certainly never used for this dish. It is a very difficult dish to make. I don't understand why Hirigoyen says it's easy. There are many more examples why i decided not to buy the book even though it looks very pretty.

A pretty book with some nice pictures, but it does little to portray veritable Basque cuisine. I am a Spaniard from Catalunya who loves good food and knows the kitchen. I was bothered by many things in this book -- his overuse of butter, for instance... Gazpacho is a dish from southern and central Spain, not the Basque country. Gazpacho does not need an "earthy" flavor as Mr. Hirigoyen suggests by adding red beets (What an aberration!). The dish "Hake San Sebastian" is unheard of anywhere in the Basque country, unless he means his own version of the traditional "Merluza en Salsa Verde". "Bacalao al Pil Pil" is one of the most ancient and sophisticated dishes of the Basque country (possibly of Europe)and is taken for granted without giving it due respect... In sum, quite a disappointing and misleading view of Basque food.

This book is full of gorgeous pictures and inviting, unusual recipes. Most of the recipes are relatively simple, although some hard-to-find ingredients are used. Its a great book; it could have used some more careful editing. Some of the directions seem puzzling or incomplete. A good book for an experienced cook, but probably a poor choice for a novice.

Excellent cook book, very authentic with a touch of refinement illustrated by many pictures and cultural background. Many recipes have been in my family for generations but the book gave me more information about where to purchase some of the needed ingredients.
Eskerik'asko Gerald !

Try the marmitako. This is to the Basque country as clam chowder to New England. The version in this book is excellent and can serve as a springboard for you to create your own version.