Amazon.com Review
James Villas is in love with the notion of himself as a bon vivant. The food and wine editor of
Town & Country magazine for many years, a cookbook author, and a contributor to
Esquire, Villas has chronicled gourmet living through the foodie revolutions of the last three decades. In
Between Bites: Memoirs of a Hungry Hedonist, he writes about discovering and developing his palate in France in the early 1960s, the Advent of Julia (Child, of course), the rise of nouvelle cuisine, and the return to regional cooking. Though he claims to be a supporter of down-home American cuisine, Villas is deeply enamored of all things jet set. His idea of glamour has everything to do with champagne and what he always refers to as "sufficiencies of caviar." His memoir unfolds as a series of portraits of great chefs, restaurateurs, and eaters he has known--chapters are devoted to everyone from James Beard and Paula Wolfert to Jeremiah Tower and Paul Bocuse. These friends are portrayed lovingly and wickedly; Villas is a self-described "old queen" who loves nothing more than a good gossip. Sometimes the storymongering can get a bit breathless; he describes at least three times a meal aboard the SS
France with Salvador Dali and an ocelot. But even his name-dropping has a certain charm: here's a sophisticate who still gets starry-eyed about his own extraordinary good fortune.
--Claire Dederer
--This text refers to the
Hardcover
edition.
Review
With curiosity and style, North Carolina-born James Villas has covered the food world for more than 30 years in both magazines and books. Even so, he says, "I've never been a conventional food writer, which means I stay in trouble all the time," For his readers that means honest, well-researched writing that makes no apologies or concessions to the trends of the day. His career took off in 1972 when he was hired to be the food and wine editor at
Town & Country, For 27 years, Villas wrote on every topic imaginable, from American caviar and California wines to wild mushrooms and authentic barbecue. He was one of the first writers to champion the burgeoning American food movement in the 1970s, trying, as he puts it, "always to expose American cooking and food, elevating it as much as I could." Today, Villas continues to write cookbooks and essays that explore his subjects in the most authentic way possible.
Between Bites, his memoirs, is a collection of essays published last year. "I've always had this insatiable thirst to get to the bottom of things," says Villas, "and I will go to the ends of the earth for the answer," (
Bon Appetit, October 2003)