Customer Reviews: Endless Summer, GAD860SP, LP Gas Outdoor Firebowl with Slate/Marble Mantel
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on December 3, 2010
This is a great outdoor fire pit for the price. Sometimes Walmart has it cheaper and sometimes Amazon does. It is worth checking them both as they both ship directly from Blue Rhino to your home. Also, the same fire pit is sold under the names Blue Rhino and UniFlame.

Once it is put together it is very sturdy and easy to use. The fire puts out a lot of heat and flame. The mantel is a nice size leaving plenty of room for drinks, plates, bottles, feet, etc. The lava rocks and fake logs looked a lot better than I thought they would. Overall it is a beautiful fire pit.

(many of these are mentioned in other reviews, but they will save you a lot of hassle and time)

TIME: It says 1 hour but plan on 2 hours. Only a person who had put together about 5 of these perviously would be able to do it in an hour.

LOCATION: Plan to build it close to where you are going to use it as it is heavy to move once built. It can be easily moved by two strong people, but it would be hard for one person to move it any distance.

CARDBOARD: The is one large flat square piece of cardboard that is in the box with the top. Save this piece and use it to lay on the ground while building. Most of the building you will do with the top upside down and having this underneath will protect it from scratches and make it easy to slide around if needed.

INSTRUCTIONS: The instructions are good, but are mainly just pictures. There is very little detail provided. So you MUST carefully examine each picture as you build it, noting the number of holes on top versus the bottom, the direction of pieces and the exact screw needed. It is very easy to start putting a piece together to only realize that you messed up and need to take it a part and re-do it.

SCREW PACKAGE: A nice screw package is provided labeling each group of screws A,B,C, etc so you know which ones to use where. DOUBLE CHECK the labeling. On my package the A screws were labeled B and vice versa. I ended up using the allen screws where I was suppose to use the philips head screws and I ended up having to re-do the first couple of steps. Verify on the picture whether they want you to use the allen screws or philips head screws. Basically you will use the allen screws to attach the sides to the top, and you will use the philips head screws for everything else.

SCREW TIGHTENING: Almost every review mentions this advice and it is very important. When attaching a section together, first partially screw the screws in and once it is al attached, THEN tighten them down. The holes often do not line up perfectly and you will need a little "play" to line them up before tightening. The MOST IMPORTANT time to follow this is when you attach the sides to the top. DO NOT TIGHTEN all of the allen screws which are used to attach the sides to the top until you have ALL of the sides partially screwed in... then tighten everything down. If you don't follow this you will not be able to get all of the screws to match up to the holes. Also, on some pieces I found it useful to have a pair of pliers or hammer to bend some of the pieces a little so that the holes line up.

TANK COVER: A nice black vinyl tank cover is provided. It is easiest to put this on from the bottom upward and not from the top down.

TANK HOSE: I found it easiest to attach the hose to the tank and then rotate the tank clockwise a bit to tighten the hose up. This enables the hose to wrap closely around the tank and thus make it fit so that the door closes easily.

FIRE PIT COVER: A nice fitting cover is provided for the fire pit and even includes a little extra room at top to allow for the fake logs. This cover is a very thin and cheap vinyl. Be very careful when you put it on (especially if it is cold) as it will tear VERY EASILY at the corners. I would recommend turning the cover inside-out and reinforcing the edges and corners with duct tape first. Then use the cover as normal with the tape on the inside protecting the edges and corners. If you don't do this you will eventually tear the cover.

STARTING THE FIRE: Many have noted this as well, but it is easy to overlook. It does NOT start the same as a typical gas grill. To start the fire turn the knob to the start position and HOLD IT IN. While holding it in, press the electric starter. You must keep holding it in until it lights up (this can take a few seconds) and then you will need to KEEP HOLDING IT IN until the fire gets going. If you let go too soon it will just go out.

WINE: Don't keep a bottle of wine on the table top for very long as it will heat it up pretty fast if the fire is going...and who likes warm wine..ugh.

Overall this is an awesome product at a great price. The shipping was very fast (only a few days) and the item came in one large box. If you are patient and follow the above directions (or have a friend/relative who is) you will have it built and be using it to warm yourself in no time at all.
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on April 9, 2010
I have read a lot of positive reviews about this fire pit at other websites that offer it for sale. Hundreds of great reviews. I purchased it myself. It will take a minimum of two people (one has to help hold items in place at times while another screws in bolts) approximately two hours to assemble. It is packaged very well, instructions were mostly visuals/pictures, but step by step. Easy to turn on and off. Came with a cover for the propane tank (to make it blend into the dark metal sides) and a cover for the entire fire pit! We were able to use "Gas Watch" - a propane gas level indicator- on the tank which will eliminate guessing how much gas remains before a refill would be needed. LOVE THIS FIRE PIT! Compared to other propane fire pits of this size and quality, the price is reasonable. The video let's you see more details of the pit; how it arrives packaged, the size compared to lawn furniture, and operation. Propane tank is not included.
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TOP 500 REVIEWERon November 14, 2015
 I won't go into detail about all the pros of this fire pit table since there are literally hundreds of reviews already giving you that info. This review is to show you that it's possible to turn a decent flame into an awesome fire that's actually capable of producing heat on a cold night. The video also shows you how to improve the flame should you choose to keep the existing equipment. You do need to be a little handy in order to do this but it's very doable.

This is a great fire table, especially considering the price. The fire element, however, left much to be desired, for me personally. The air mixture is not properly set from the factory which results in TONS of soot and black smoke. The flame itself also doesn't give much heat since it doesn't get all that large. What I did was completely redo the burner system and bypass the included burner system.

Please watch the video if you'd like to get an idea of how to do this and please feel free to ask any questions. I'll get back to you within a day at most.

Parts used:

bbq factory® Stainless Steel Fire Pit Burner Ring, 12-Inch dia, SS #304

Dreffco 150,000 BTU LP Air Mixture Valve for Liquid Propane Fire Pits

Gas One High Pressure Propane 0-20 PSI Adjustable Regulator with Hose - Works with newer U.S. propane tanks

You will also need: Yellow gas tape, adapter for regulator to piping, and 20-50lbs of fire glass. 20 lbs should do you fine if you use the meshing. You'll need around 50 lbs if you want to fill up the entire bowl.

My system is built with 1/2" piping. Check out your local hardware store to get an adapter for the regulator to connect with the piping. Fire glass can be purchased at a multitude of retailers.

Edit 1: I noticed the noise in the video when the flame is turned up high was due to the fact that one of my connections did not have enough thread tape and was leaking under high pressure. I thought it was another noise that I've heard periodically with usage. Definitely make sure your connections are tight with sufficient tape in order to prevent leaking.

Edit 2: I made another video for those wondering exactly how I did this. Just google "Blue Rhino GAD860SP LP Fire Pit Table Fire Glass Conversion" and it should be the first link you see. You can also search it in YT.
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on January 8, 2009
This is an great firepit for the price. There is some assembly required but it is pretty straight forward and only a few simple tools required. The table is very sturdy and appears that it will last for many years to come. Takes a standard 5 gallon propane tank which is a little tight to fit into its storage space, but can be done (hint: turn valve towards the fire pit as you place it into the storage location). [...]
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on August 28, 2010
This is a very nice firepit for the price. We looked at a few others that were over double the price, but were not sure how much we would really use it so were unwilling to spend a huge amount of money on it.

This one looks good, and works quite well. Its also a nice size table for sitting around. The slate tile is pretty much like in the photos, with brownish colored slate. The frame is a very dark bronze color, almost, but not quite black.

The firepit is delivered by truck freight, in a single 170 lb box. We had to arrange delivery times with the freight company, but they were nice enough to deliver it into our back yard for us. The unit is very well packed, with multiple separate boxes inside, and foam padding where appropriate. Expect to recycle a lot of cardboard and foam! The boxes are labeled by part number.

The firepit is mostly made from stamped steel sheet metal. The instructions are pretty good, but you need to be careful to assemble the side walls so that they are oriented properly on the top. The top is a bit different on the edge where the doors are, and this is not super clear in the instructions.

As with anything made from sheet metal, it can be a bit challenging to get all the holes to line up! It helps to have 2 people, and you do need a bit of dexterity to reach around pieces as you are assembling it. They say it should take an hour, but expect it to be somewhat longer. Two tricks that helped: 1) when assembling 2 parts with screws, do not tighten any screws until you have all of them started and 2) when the holes didn't want to line up exactly, I used an allen wrench that would fit into the holes to pry them into alignment, then clamped the parts together with a small C clamp while I got the screw started. There were only a few screws that were hard to do.

I do like how the gas tank is easily accessible on its slide out tray, but its also pretty well hidden if you use the supplied cover over the tank. The electric start and control valve are easy to reach behind the other door, and both work well. The gas valve is the type like on a water heater where you have to hold it in for a few seconds while the fire heats up. This is a nice safety feature because it will shut off the gas flow if the fire blows out in wind. Of course, one of the nice things about gas is that when you are done with it, you can turn off the valve, and its off. No worrying about hot embers burning for the next few hours.

The firepit, without the gas cylinder is about 150 pounds. It is pretty easy for two people to lift up and move around, aside from the weight.

The unit is steel, and while it is well painted, I think that eventually it will rust. That is not a big problem where I live, but I think it could be a big issue if you are near the ocean.

The only real complaint was that Amazon suggested a "add both to cart" type bundle with a cover, but the suggested cover turned out to be too small to fit.
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on January 1, 2015
We bought this over a year ago and love it to death. On a cool night, there is nothing like sitting by the fire, Scotch in hand, looking at the stars.

It wasn't difficult to put together. A few of the holes took a bit of work to line up correctly, but nothing too difficult. The slate top is VERY heavy, so it can be tricky for one person to handle. I was able to put it together without any help, however.

It's been super reliable since then. It's spent 1.5 winters outside (plus a spring, summer and fall), sometimes covered, sometimes not, and has held up extremely well. No visible rust or wear. Looks like new. It puts out a fair amount of heat at full power, and is large enough to put plates and glasses on top to eat off of.

This was one of the best 'splurge' purchases we ever made. If you can afford it, you won't regret it.
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on November 10, 2014
I was lucky enough to receive this fire pit table as a gift from my wonderful family. It fits in perfectly in the yard, and matches perfectly as well. A great addition.

This fire pit table is an excellent value. The fit and finish are much better than one would expect given the competition and the price tag. It has some great features, including slide out storage for the propane tank that makes changing the tank or opening and closing the valve very easy.

The size of this table is also just right, with enough room around the edge for a plate if you'd like to eat at it, just the right height to put your feet up while sitting, etc. Even with the burner off, this is an attractive piece of furniture with natural rock tiles lining the table surface.

The one major negative of this fire pit table is the extreme amounts of soot it produces while in operation. At first I thought maybe I got a bad batch of propane (not even sure if that exists). Next I thought it was the lava rocks that were causing the soot. Eventually I got a nice education in fire pit tables and burners and fixed the problem for about 50 cents. In the meantime, and quite unfortunately, I found that we just did not use the burner much and started avoiding it altogether because of the soot issue.

In my initial mistaken guess that the lava rocks were causing the soot, I decided to remove them and replace with fire glass. The glass sooted up completely black within 10 minutes. Next, I removed the glass entirely and ran the burner alone. Still major soot, you could smell it in the air and basically taste it. I could see soot wafting off the top of the flames. Not only would I consider this unhealthy, it was uncomfortable to be around.

I decided to start my quest to fix this problem and enjoy the fire by calling customer service from the manufacturer, Blue Rhino. The conversation was quite comical, with the lady I spoke with trying to convince me that the soot was a feature of this fire pit designed to mimic burning actual wood. I explained the reason I wanted a gas fire pit was to avoid that type of thing, in which case she said basically I bought the wrong fire pit though they did sell versions designed to run with glass that burned cleaner. I said excellent, can you give me some of the part numbers of the burner parts for those versions that run cleaner - I'd like to use those parts on my table. She said they didn't sell the parts and I shouldn't do that anyway. I asked about adjusting the burner or flame and was told there was nothing that could be adjusted and again she tried to convince me the soot was a "feature" designed to mimic burning wood as though I should be happy to have tons of soot.

Next I started researching online. I discovered some reviews like the one by Alberto where he replaced the entire burner assembly in trying to fix the sooting issue. He mentioned the need for an air mixer, and I found several other articles online referencing the need for an air mixer with propane or else it will burn dirty and cause soot. Fine, I ordered a $20 air mixer. When it came in I went under the burner to try to figure out how to adapt it to fit. This table uses standard fittings up to the valve, but non-standard fittings after that. There didn't appear to be a way to adapt the huge 1/2" air mixer to this burner. I decided to pull the burner off the table and research the possibility of replacing it, though money is tight and I didn't really want to spend any more money on this. I had been looking at the air mixer valve for about a week on and off, and when I got the burner off I looked at the end of it and thought, this looks like an air mixer here - an air space where the brass orifice enters the burner tube. I thought I would try a shot at adjusting it and backed off the lock nut, shimmed the orifice back and put everything back together and fired it up. Still major soot. I backed the orifice out as much as I thought I could, until the end of it was right at the beginning of the intake tube to the burner. I just started to see the blue flame above the burner - progress - but still lots of soot.

I got so frustrated, I pulled the entire burner out again, and also pulled the valve assembly out and headed out to a local outdoor living/outdoor kitchen store that carries all of this stuff. There I started to poke around and realized I could change out the burner ring, and still keep the great valve with thermocouple all in place by changing the output adapter on the valve.

Then I met the owner, I explained my situation and told him what I was looking to do and showed him my burner. I told him I wanted a flame with no soot, and needed to use an air mixer. He looked at the burner and said "here's your air mixer right here on your burner", while pointing to the part I had been experimenting with adjusting. I told him I thought so, but had adjusted it as much as I could until the orifice (propane output) was even with the burner tube intake. He told me I could adjust it much more and asked an employee to get him a small square burner off the showroom floor. He flipped it over and showed me a similar setup with the orifice backed out over an inch AWAY from the input tube to the burner. I was surprised to see such a large gap between the propane output and the burner tube input, and asked if it was OK to back it out so far. He replied, well this manufacturer does it and their burners run great. He suggested I try it out with mine and told me if I ended up wanting to change the burner they had everything I needed. Great service and I left without spending any money (which my wife liked as well), though I will certainly return there in the future if need be.

On the way home, I pulled the orifice completely out and stopped by my local Ace hardware to get a matching nut so I could put a nut on each side of the orifice fitting bracket as locknuts. The nut cost me 50 cents. With a bit of trial and error I ended up with the tip of the orifice approx an inch away from the input tube to the burner, basically the tip of the orifice ended up just inside where the bracket that holds it originally ends. I ended up with about 1 inch + of nice blue flame above the burner before turning orange, no soot on my fire glass, no smell in the air and a wonderful clean flame that looks great and throws off some nice heat. Took a couple of weeks of research, trial and error, and frustration, but now I couldn't be happier with the result and I hope this helps someone else and spares them the expense and frustration of other options. We look forward to enjoying the fire regularly now. Please use this information at your own risk, and when in doubt consult a professional.


In response to requests for pictures and more information I am updating my review to include this information and the steps to take to achieve the results I have achieved. With this guidance, this is literally a 20 minute operation and we no longer experience any sooting on our fire glass at all, and enjoy sitting by the fire almost every evening now.


First off, please understand I am only relaying my experience with this fire pit and am not recommending anyone else adjust or modify their fire pit. If you have any doubts, consult a professional.

If I knew then what I know now, here are the steps I would have been inclined to take.

1) Remove the grate and any media from the fire pit. Light the burner and take note of the flame, looking in particular for a blue flame present from the burner. My experience was as the item was manufactured there was little to no blue flame present. If a blue flame is present it will be at the base of the flame then transition to an orange flame. Turn off the burner, and disconnect the propane tank.

2) Open the right access door, and remove the cross brace to give you better access. Remove the lower shield from the bottom of the pan area below the table. This involves loosening 4 outer screws from the top inside the burner pan near the edges, and two screws at the front of the shield on the left side above the propane tank. The lower shield is a square shield that is the first thing you will see when looking up under the burner area from inside the table. Removing it gives access.

3) Look up inside to the burner intake tube, you will see as the tube ends a bracket extends off the end of the tube that holds the brass orifice in place. Also note that you cannot see the end of the orifice as it extends into the burner intake tube. Tracing backwards down from the burner, the first brass nut you see on the inside of the bracket is the locknut, the hex on the outside of the bracket is part of the orifice fitting itself. Loosen the locknut while holding the orifice fitting on the outside of the bracket steady with another wrench. Once it's loose, use your finger to spin it completely off while pulling the orifice fitting back out of the bracket to allow the locknut to slip out. Bring this nut to your local hardware store (or your stash of nuts and bolts) and match it up. Choose another nut that is thinner rather than thicker than this nut. You may also wish to purchase a roll of plumbers straping and a 2" hose clamp.

4) Back at your table, thread the new nut onto the orifice all the way. Now you have 2 options:
A) Slip the orifice back through the bracket and thread the other nut on the other side, adjust the front nut so it just bites the threads, and the orifice is as far back away from the intake tube as you can and snug up the other locknut.
B) In my case, I wanted to adjust the orifice slightly farther back than the above method would allow so I threaded the new nut onto the orifice, then a 6 inch section of plumbers strapping/tape that I drilled one hole out enough for the orifice to fit through, then the other nut. I adjusted it all the way back, snugged the locknuts, then slipped this over the bracket so the nose of the orifice poked through the bracket. I secured the strapping to the intake tube with the hose clamp. This basically just mimics the bracket itself, while allowing the orifice to sit into the bracket a little farther back than the locknuts alone would allow.

That's it! Connect the propane, light the burner and again take note of the flame. You will now see a blue flame present just above the burner. I was able to get the blue flame adjusted to extend approximately an inch plus above the burner before turning orange, and this is also right about the level that my fire glass sits. The blue flame indicates a cleaner burn (and where it transitions to orange I believe is the hottest part of the flame itself.

I have added a video with a couple of pictures at the end showing before and after shots of the adjustment that I describe. The before picture was taken with the burner off of the table, the after picture is with the burner reinstalled in the table, but all adjustments can be made with the burner installed from right under the table.
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on March 3, 2015
Since there already tons of reviews of this product I have uploaded a few more images of this product pre-installation as well post.
Overall once you unbox the item the instructions are easy follow and takes anywhere from 1-2 hours to assemble.
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on February 11, 2010
We are very pleased with the Blue Rhino Firebowl. It looks great and provides a beautiful glow to our evenings on the patio. The slate tabletop is wide and allows plenty of room for plates, glasses, or for putting your feet up. Be sure to assemble this product near to where you are going to use it because it weighs 150+ pounds. You don't want to have to move it too far after assembly. We were pleased to see that they included a black vinyl cover that slips over the butane tank. This makes it virtually invisible when the tank is enclosed under the tabletop. Likewise, the square cover that fits over the entire table top was very effective in keeping the table and firebowl dry during the recent rains. Great product.
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 Blue Rhino created a beautiful table, the inlaid tile is secure and well made and the base is metal and unassuming (meaning that it doesn't steal attention from the table top and fire. There are a few of things to keep in mind.

1. It will take hours to put together. just accept that and you'll be fine. I found a video on YouTube where the wonderful man takes you step by freaking step through the building process by himself. I don't think the links are allowed but just search by name of table.
2. It is worth watching Stefan Urquelle's video on tweaking the table for a more substantial flame and actual warmth. It's not at all that difficult but it will delay your installation until the parts arrive. His Video is like the 3rd or 4th review here on the product page.
3. It's Heavy, really heavy, so think your placement in advance.
4. I didn't use the lava rocks they were very sandy and I am very partial to the fire glass.
5. Get a cover for it, theirs is embarrassingly bad, the cover i got has already kept buckets of water out of the thing.
6. Always have a 2nd full tank available -- You can keep it on longer than you realize.

My short video was just to show it working after a long day. but it is really beautiful.
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