Review
Leonard takes an uncompromising seed-to-loaf approach to "growing" bread. Starting with a discussion of what variety of grain to plant (i.e., spring wheat or winter wheat, and then hard or soft, red or white) he proceeds to give detailed, practical advice on when and how to plant and harvest the grain, how to thresh, winnow, wash and store it, how to mill the wheat at home, make and maintain one's own natural sourdough starter, build a wood-fired brick oven and, finally, bake an honest loaf of whole grain bread. Leonard emphasizes the use of freshly ground flour and his chapter rating home mills, both hand and electric, will be extremely useful to anyone contemplating a purchase. Perhaps the most interesting sections of the book are those which discuss Chinese, Japanese and European agricultural traditions, comparing them to contemporary practices, and the workings of commercial water-powered mills past and present. Leonard's step-by-step instructions for every phase of the seed-to-loaf process are clear, and he makes the entire experience accessible by listing mail-order sources throughout. He does not, however, advise the reader who is unwilling to grow her own wheat how and where to purchase good quality grains, and his chapter on baking with natural leavening is somewhat confusing. Nonetheless, the unique depth and focus of this bread book make it a fine companion to any baker's favorite recipe book, whether or not one shares Leonard's commitment to starting from absolute scratch. Highly recommended. --
From Independent Publisher