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71 of 73 people found the following review helpful
Break-Free CLP was developed for the US military as an all purpose cleaner, lubricant and preservative for all military small arms. This is standard issue equipment for US forces to take care of their small arms in all climates and conditions. My father is a retired US Air Force small arms instructor and armorer and introduced me to Break-Free CLP several years ago. It is all I use to clean, lubricate and protect my guns. However, if you shoot Soviet/East Bloc corrosive military surplus ammunition, use a cleaner specifically designed to remove the corrosive priming residue. The US and NATO have not used corrosive priming for several decades, so Break-Free CLP may not remove corrosive priming residue.
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50 of 54 people found the following review helpful
on February 26, 2012
How good is Break-Free? I can actually remember the very day I first used this decades ago.

My excellent High Standard .22 competition pistol was was failing to extract cases or sometimes chamber a new cartridge, and I was getting tired of regularly shooting alibi strings in Bullseye practice or matches. Careful cleaning and use of any number of regular, high-quality gun oils or Mobil One didn't seem to help, and the ammunition was not at fault. I resigned myself to sending the pistol off to a specialized gunsmith and sitting out a season. Then I tried this product by chance. After cleaning carefully with solvent, then stripping away all traces of old lubricant and cleaner using paint thinner, I cleaned with Break-Free and then carefully lubricated the pistol.

The next practice session that evening went smoothly without a malfunction. Coincidence? By continuing to use Break-Free to clean and lubricate, I shot tens of thousands of additional rounds without single problem. Night-and-day difference!

This product works even better as a cleaner if the product is applied at the range when you are finished firing, and perhaps while the firearms are still a bit warm. This way, the cleaner starts to penetrate and clean your firearms as you drive home. You can also then wait a day or two to clean them this way as long as the wipe down has been thorough.

In later years, I have used the Tetragun line of oils and light grease,and feel those are clearly superior. The very light grease is especially useful in particular places where you want a lubricant to last and stay put (even in very cold weather). However, since these products are difficult to find, Break-Free is still a great second choice. (Look for a moly-containing gun grease.)

Corrosive priming? I would not trust ANY standard cleaner/lubricant if I even suspect a single round of the ammunition is corrosively primed. If you use any corrosive-primed ammunition, you can either use a cleaner made to remove such residue (products for black powder/Pyrodex work well), or do it the old US Army way. It's cheap and works. A chemist at the former National Bureau of Standards (now NIST) was the one who figured out that corrosive primers left behind a hygroscopic, water-soluble chemical salt residue, one that was resistant to being removed by oily cleaners.

To remove these salts, clean with multiple passes of wet (not dripping) COTTON patches using hot water and a little detergent. A bristle or nylon brush helps. Let the detergent solution sit on the metal for a little while. Rinse with hot water on patches, and then dry. If you can, pour hot water though the chamber and barrel. Dry carefully. You can even use a blast of hot air from a hair drier to help with drying. Be sure to wash and dry all cleaning tools.

Now clean with regular cleaner. To be completely safe after firing corrosive ammo, I like to let the regular cleaner sit in the bore and chamber overnight (beware of aggressive cleaners here!), and do a full second cleaning a day later with water and detergent, and then more regular cleaner. One advantage of SOME black powder cleaning products is that you can let them sit in the bore and chamber overnight to penetrate the deposits, but without a risk of rust. If so, a second cleaning isn't needed. Time is always a helpful ally in cleaning.

Finish up with a good lubricant preservative, and Bob's your uncle. Long-term storage requires more care. If storing the firearm at this point for several months or more, coat with a good preservative gun grease such as RIG or Hoppe's, and wrap in waxed paper to ensure the grease isn't absorbed by the case or gun sock. (Tie a red tag to the trigger guard indicating it is greased and needs to be cleaned before shooting again.)

Sounds time-consuming? It goes fast and I've never had problems, and this is a good time to enjoy a scotch or glass of wine (AFTER the shooting is over). It's what I do with all my muzzle-loaders anyway. My magnificent Webley MK IV .455 revolver had been shot in the Great War with corrosively-primed ammunition, and sometimes today with black powder. But with proper cleaning -well, there is not a hint of corrosion damage.

If you doubt the need for such careful cleaning when shooting corrosive ammo, simply look at the bores some old British military firearms, especially those that ended up in the hands of British allies (e.g. Martini rifles). Even the well-cared for British arms can sadly show some pitting from corrosion. But it's almost universal and extensive in many of the allied or colonial arms as the tough British sergeant or corporal wasn't there to supervise and "encourage" proper and prompt cleaning of the arms after firing. (And we consider the US Marine Corps non-coms and DI as being tough cases!!!!!!!) Even a few days of delay before proper cleaning can result in visible, sometimes deep, damage.

Good shooting!
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74 of 84 people found the following review helpful
on December 29, 2013
Waaaaaaay back when, CLP was adopted by the MIL as the issued CLP for the AR15/M16 platform of weapons. It was later used on the M60 machine gun, the 240 machine gun, and the 249 machine gun. The use of CLP ceased on the 240 and 249 once operators realized that wear was not being mitigated and that CLP offered little protection from the high operating temperatures and overall violence of the guns. They quickly transitioned to LSA and LAW, and GMD (oil, oil, and grease, respectively) to lubricate these weapons.

Knowing several former M249-ers from the military, only one of them used CLP (because he had to, and hated it) and few used LSA. Most of them used MilComm TWB25, Mobil-1, Militec, & Slip2000 EWL. They all use the below listed newer lubricants on their AR15's now.

I used it for a LOOOONG time because there was nothing else available. But, now there are alternatives. Slip 2000 EWL, Rand Nano-CLP, FIREClean, etc......all do a vastly superior job on lubricating and protecting my firearms. Further (and ironically), they also make them easier to clean than the even the LIBERAL use of BF CLP.

Also, for AR15 owners, BF CLP is a failure and here's why: it contains particulate teflon. I can't think of a worse substance to insert into what is tantamount to the combustion chamber in an automobile engine (the tail of the bolt; i.e. the gas expansion chamber) than a thin petroleum distillate liquid with suspended pieces of particulate teflon.

If anybody has every wondered why you have to scrub the base/tail of the bolt with so much effort and vigor when using CLP...it's because BF CLP actually makes this carbon build-up worse than not using BF CLP at all.

Most old-timers don't realize this until they use one of the aforementioned superior lubricants and have that "ah-HA!" moment.

I clean the tail of my bolt using a paper towel and a few twists of my wrist. No scrubbing. No chipping. No dental tools. No bench grinder. No brass brush. None of that.

Also, CLP has petroleum distillates. If you have kids, pets....or just hate cancer, you wanna try and keep that stuff off your hands. The newer lubes I have listed are all available on Amazon and are all NON-TOXIC (i.e. no P-D's).

Do yourself a favor and upgrade to one of the following......you'll be glad you did:

Slip 2000 EWL 4oz
Rand CLP 4oz
FIREClean

Just cut-and paste the above titles into the Amazon search box.
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16 of 18 people found the following review helpful
on July 20, 2011
it is simply the best fluid on earth for gun owners, because it's cheap and it conveniently does everything very well. you save time and money because you can clean and lube at the same time, you don't even need to use that much of it for it to be effective, even a small amount does an amazing job. even after it has dried off, it sticks to the metal at a molecular level so it still provides protection. only thing it does not do tremendous well is cleaning the barrel bore, although it does a decent job, for major cleaning a dedicated copper/lead remover should be used for the bores.
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9 of 10 people found the following review helpful
on November 5, 2011
I grew up cleaning firearms with the standard solvent, brushes, patches and oils and while that certainly works moving to CLP (and a bore snake) has made after range cleaning of firearms a much quicker and more simple process. Replacing all of the different liquids in the cleaning process with CLP is both time saving and cost effective. I use both the aerosol version and the liquid in the bottle (comes with an small tube for accurate application) in the cleaning/lubricating process and have for several years. I could not be more pleased with the CLP product line.
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8 of 9 people found the following review helpful
on March 9, 2014
Yes, it is a cleaner. Yes, it is a lubricant. Yes, it is a protectant. Is it the BEST at any of these things? Unfortunately, it's not. If you only have room in your cleaning kit for one bottle, buy this. Otherwise, I recommend purchasing a dedicated cleaning solvent (CLP doesn't remove copper fouling particularly well, a dedicated lubricant, and a dedicated protectant. After trying just about everything out there, my choices are as follows: Hoppes no 9 for cleaning, Militec 1 & TW25B (an oil & a grease) for lubricating, and WD-40 Specialist Long Term Corrosion Inhibitor (LTCI) for rust prevention. Whenever I hear about something "better," I give it a try. But in the end I always come back to these three. YMMV
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3 of 3 people found the following review helpful
on October 24, 2012
I used this the entire time I was in the Army, 11H(javelin gunner) was my MOS. Great stuff all the way around. Just pre-clean your firearm with it and do a simple field strip and cleaning each time you use your firearm.
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2 of 2 people found the following review helpful
on February 15, 2013
Been using Break Free for years. I use this product for cleaning and lubricating my guns. Does a great job
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2 of 2 people found the following review helpful
I'm always looking for a better cleaner and lubricant for my firearms. This is what I used in the Army and it is perfect! if you are looking for something, stop and buy this.
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4 of 5 people found the following review helpful
on August 2, 2013
The old BREAKFREE CLP I have used for years successfully has the codes printed on the container: MIL-L-63460, NATO Code S-7589150-01-079-6124; and was made by Armor Holdings Co. These new bottles are made by Safariland and do not have ANY MIL spec codes or NATO codes printed on the bottles. These new stuff seems to be working slower than the good old stuff.
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