3 of 4 people found the following review helpful:
3.0 out of 5 stars
Good information about Navajo blankets/rugs, July 13, 2001
This review is from: C.N. Cotton and His Navajo Blankets (Paperback)
A reader is told more than they need to know about Clinton Neal Cotton, Navajo Indian Trader. The reader would have been better served if the editor had concentrated solely on the history of Navajo blankets. Williams is a relative of Cotton so don't expect a searching and objective examination of Cotton's activities in Navajo country. It's difficult, after reading the book, to determine whether Cotton exploited or assisted the Navajo in the marketing of their blankets, rugs, and jewelry.
Cotton left Ohio in 1881, traveled to New Mexico, and worked for the A & P Railroad. In 1884, he became a partner in Ganado trading post located near the Navajo reservation. The Navajos sold wool, sheep, cattle, hides, pinon nuts, jewelry, and blankets to the trading post. In return, the Indians bought merchandise from the trader's stock. This was a very competitive business but a shrewd trader could make good money.
Cotton's contribution to trade goods involved the upgrading of Navajo blankets. He initially insisted on more colors in the blankets. Navajo weavers found it difficult to produce red, blue, or black dyes from native (organic) materials. Cotton stocked aniline dyes in these colors which eventually brightened newly produced Navajo blankets. Cotton also convinced the Navajos to upgrade their sheep stock to produce better wool; he thought the improved product could then be marketed as rugs. This proved a breakthrough allowing the marketing nationwide of Navajo blankets and rugs.
Cotton assisted Navajo weavers in creating different designs for their blankets and rugs. He bought paintings of better quality blankets (from the near east/far east), placed them throughout his trading post, had the weavers study the designs, and suggested they imitate the "oriental" patterns. Other Indian traders also convinced the Navajos to imitate similar patterns. By 1911, the transition from native Navajo patterns to Oriental patterns in Navajo blanket/rugs is very evident.
Cotton interfered in the design of Navajo silverwork. Prior to 1900, most silverwork created by the Navajos was for personal use thus was crude by Western standards. In 1884, Cotton brought a Mexican silversmith to Navajo country to teach his sophisticated craft to the Indians. Cotton also dealt with the purchase and sale of ancient pottery taken from Indian ruins -- a practice that is illegal today.
In 1888, Cotton moved to Gallup to open a wholesale business and was able to gain exclusive control of two items basic for trade with the Navajo: Arbuckle's Coffee and Pendleton Blankets. Cotton began to create a demand for the many Navajo blankets/rugs he took in trade. He developed an eastern market by mailing the first illustrated catalogs of Navajo products to prestigious stores wherein he listed blankets and "rugs." Cotton graded the woven products into three classes: the best grade were the rugs; the second tier were the saddle blankets; and the poorest grade were the shoulder blankets and/or bed blankets. Soon Navajo blankets and rugs were on sale at Marshall Field and Wanamakers.
Cotton's "paternalistic" attitude led him into trouble when he tried to expand into the construction business. He used Navajo workers and paid them in trade tokens which were restricted for use in Cotton's stores; a variation of the notorious company stores of the coal mining regions. An investigation proved Cotton's "chit" system was corrupt. Cotton was quite successful. He became mayor of the Gallup, NM, became the director of several banks, and was instrumental in getting Route 66 to traverse his city.
Willimas isn't a good writer and delves too much into minutia. The principal interest in this book are the reproductions of Cotton's catalogs, dated between 1896 and 1919, which describe the different Navajo blankets and rugs and the grading system Cotton used. A brief history of the Navajo blanket, it's varied patterns, and the process employed by the weavers is also included. Additional items of interest are the various photos of the Indian trading posts, Cotton's warehouse, office, and so forth.
I didn't care for Williams' commentary, C. N. Cotton's so-called achievements, or his interference in the Navajo Way; however, there is good information about Navajo blankets/rugs so this book earns a qualifed recommendation.
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