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111 of 127 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Cable Running/home network tips
(edited 3/17/14)
I haven't purchased this cable, but I've installed cable professionally for years and have moved up to where I'm ordering data circuits for our company of 40,000+ employees, so I wanted to share a few tips for the lay person doing small installs or home installation. That, and I thought I'd make some notes for others while I'm looking for parts for...
Published 23 months ago by Troy

versus
10 of 11 people found the following review helpful
3.0 out of 5 stars Spool is cool but yipes, stripes
The cable is spooled in the box so that it easily unwinds as it is pulled out. What I don't like is that the white-stripes are quite thin making it difficult to distinquish between solid colored and white-striped wires. It's therefore difficult to verify RJ45 wiring pin placement when attaching an RJ45 connector.
Published on July 29, 2009 by R. Buck


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111 of 127 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Cable Running/home network tips, February 19, 2013
(edited 3/17/14)
I haven't purchased this cable, but I've installed cable professionally for years and have moved up to where I'm ordering data circuits for our company of 40,000+ employees, so I wanted to share a few tips for the lay person doing small installs or home installation. That, and I thought I'd make some notes for others while I'm looking for parts for my own home network.

This cable is NON-PLENUM - meaning you can only use this cable in spaces where your HVAC (heating and air conditioning) does not move the air around the cable. Non-plenum cable releases more deadly toxins into the air when it is burned so you don't want to spread toxic air through an entire building if there is a small fire around the cable. If you use this cable in areas where the heating and air conditioning move air, you will want to put the cable inside of conduit, in which case it would be a lot easier and cheaper to use Plenum rated cable. Plenum cable is ~3X more expensive because they need to use different chemicals in the outer plastic coating so few toxins will be released into the air if the cable burns.

There are higher quality standards beyond cat 5e, but unless you are running a larger professional grade network, Cat 5e is plenty. If you are doing a home network and money is tight, you could use Cat 5 or even Cat 3 cable. Cat 3 is technically voice telephone cable and lower quality and shouldn't be used for data cable, but if you're pinching pennies, it will get the job done.

- You can generally buy cable in 500' and 1000' rolls. When measuring the amount of cable you need, be sure to also count the 10' or so you'll have on both ends running up and down the walls.
- ***Run your longest runs first*** When you get to the end of a box, you'll be more likely to use the last little bit on a short run, where if you do your short runs first, you'll have a lot more waste ($$$).
- Try not to run your data cables parallel to electrical cables when going through the ceiling - the data cable will pick up interference...the longer the parallel run, the more interference, which means a possible decrease in performance. Try to stay about 36" or more away from electrical wires (running down a wall to a data jack shouldn't matter too much if you have no other options). Interference is a magnetic thing, and wooden studs do not effect magnetic fields, so keep that in mind.
- The above also goes for fluorescent lights...the balast (sp?) produce a LOT of electrical interference, especially as they get older.
- Patch panels and data jacks have two termination options, 568A and 568B. As long as you use the same standard on both ends, it does not matter which you use, although outside of federal buildings, typically the 568B standard is used the most. 568A & 568B are EXACTLY the same electronically, meaning if you had two cables side by side terminated as 568A and 568B, and removed the colored plastic coating from the copper wires, the copper connections are exactly the same, so I have no clue why someone felt the need to create two standards that are technically identical. It makes about as much sense as putting an elevator in an outhouse...
- Leave a small service loop at the patch panel and a little slack at the jack - if your first termination attempt doesn't work, you'll need some slack to work with to terminate your patch panel or jack again. Also, be very careful when scoring the jacket cover to expose the cables inside. You want to just barely score the outer jacket and bend the cable and it will break the outer jacket. If you nick one of the wires it can and likely will break months down the road, so don't risk it, go another 1" to 1 ˝" down the cable and try again. Copper cable is thin and if you nick the copper, it is easy to break the wire and not notice and end up with a faulty connection.
- Professionally, your cable run should be less than 328' (which works out to 100 meters). The 328' includes the patch cords at each end. A professional cable tester (such as Fluke meters) will automatically fail anything past 328', although connections past 328' will work...but the natural cable resistance and electrical interference from surrounding wire becomes more noticeable on longer runs. Most cable is marked every 2 feet, so it's easy to gauge your length, and how much cable is remaining in the box.
- If you need to run much past 328', you may need to boost your signal. A cheap powered hub can often do the trick - although you may need to check the hub to see if you need to wire one side as a cross over cable. You could possibly have successful cable runs up to 450 feet or more, but that is pushing your luck.

Mounting bracket - there are a ton of options when it comes to brackets for these types of low voltage brackets. Over the years my favorite was the MP1P. If you look closely there are four tiny raised spots on the corners of the bracket. Place the front side of the bracket against the wall, preferably lining it up with a small level roughly 18" from the floor at the bottom of the bracket, and push where these four raised spots are located. Pushing on these spots leaves a tiny indentation in the sheetrock which are your guide to cutting the hole in your wall for your outlet...just use the edge of your level or the edge of the bracket and draw your lines from point to point, and when you cut out the hole, barely include the lines in the cut and you will have a snug fit. There are ratcheting plastic backs that you cannot really see in the picture, but you can ratchet these tight with just your fingers. I suggest not using screws as often screws will just cause the small piece of sheetrock between the screw and the existing hole to break. Being plastic, there are not sharp edges to cut yourself or the cable, so it's a win-win there. Amazon removed most of my links, which confuses me because they were links to other Amazon products...maybe they were not sold DIRECTLY by Amazon but through a 3rd party vendor or something like that...so if the link below is removed, do a search on "MP1P" and you should see the general product type I am referring to here.
http://www.amazon.com/MP1P-Non-Metallic-Single-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B0076AYP1C/ref=sr_1_13?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1361315890&sr=1-13&keywords=mp1p

My favorite voice or data jack is HellermanTyton (one word). I used these for years and had no problems that I can recall, and they are about 25% cheaper than Levington jacks, and a midrange price. Many jacks (such as Levington) have non-flat bottoms so your jack will either need a little mount to stick the jack in while terminating the jack, or you will need to hold it and the non-flat bottom means the jack may roll while you punch down the wire, and take my word for it, it can make a nasty little cut on your hand when this happens. With the flat bottoms of the HellermanTyton jacks, once you have the wires laid into the jack, you can place it against the wall and since the bottom is flat, it will not leave indentations on the wall as you terminate the wires, and is less likely to roll if you hold it with your fingers. The HellermanTyton product I was referring to is no longer on Amazon, so that is probably why the link was removed. Most jacks are high enough quality that it will not matter much beyond personal preference. Just be sure to match your brands between the jacks and faceplates to be sure they snap into place correctly.

If you are running voice, fax and data jacks, the voice jacks are typically the same color as your faceplate, and fax and data jacks are colored for easy recognition. If memory serves me well, I think typically faxes were blue and data jacks were orange or red.

You will need a patch panel to terminate your cables at your router, cable modem, DSL modem etc. If you are doing a small installation, I'd suggest a 12 port patch panel similar to the one linked below. Once you mount the bracket, you can place the patch panel in the bracket in reverse and terminate the cables, then rotate the patch panel 180 degrees and mount it normally and attach your patch cords. I had linked a good product but it is no longer on the Amazon site and the link was removed, but the current prices range from $13 to $92 - look for items with good reviews. Do a search for "12 port mini patch panel 110 cat5e" if the link below has been removed.

For a picture reference only - http://www.amazon.com/Port-110-IDC-Patch-Panel-1xEIA/dp/B008G1DC5K/ref=sr_1_cc_3?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1395075888&sr=1-3-catcorr&keywords=12+port+mini+patch+panel+cat5e
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10 of 11 people found the following review helpful
3.0 out of 5 stars Spool is cool but yipes, stripes, July 29, 2009
By 
R. Buck (Fairfield, IA USA) - See all my reviews
(REAL NAME)   
The cable is spooled in the box so that it easily unwinds as it is pulled out. What I don't like is that the white-stripes are quite thin making it difficult to distinquish between solid colored and white-striped wires. It's therefore difficult to verify RJ45 wiring pin placement when attaching an RJ45 connector.
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9 of 10 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars IT Guy Approves, September 18, 2011
Verified Purchase(What's this?)
The wire is a little stiffer than some of the cable I'm used to and that makes it much easier to arrange the cables before I slide it into the end connectors. Small wire colors are standard. I am the IT guy for a high school and I make a lot of cable to replace damaged computer-to-wall jack cables of varying size and it's very helpful to be able to just make the size of cable I need.
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6 of 7 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars High speed wire withought high price., September 7, 2011
Verified Purchase(What's this?)
This review is from: C2G / Cables to Go 27352 Cat5E UTP Solid PVC CMR-Rated Cable, Grey (1000 Feet/304.8 Meters) (Personal Computers)
I pulled this cable from my guest house (165') and my shop (95') through conduit and had no problems with broken wires or casing. My long run still pulls as fast a bandwith test as my main computer and its behind another router and a switch. I found this cable easy to prepare for connectors and did not exprience any bad connections. I have to give this cable 5 stars for shipping and product performance.
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3 of 3 people found the following review helpful
4.0 out of 5 stars Bulk cable - right amount, August 23, 2011
Verified Purchase(What's this?)
I only needed around 350 feet of cable - was happy to find the 500 ft box. Didn't feel like purchasing (and then having to store/sell) the 1000ft roll. Fairly easy to feed with minimal kinking. My longest run of ~275 ft tested perfectly first try.
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2 of 2 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars 1000ft Grey Box Cat5e 350mhz Solid Pvc, May 3, 2006
This review is from: C2G / Cables to Go 27352 Cat5E UTP Solid PVC CMR-Rated Cable, Grey (1000 Feet/304.8 Meters) (Personal Computers)
My order for cat5 cable was handled without any problems and the quality of the cable was what I have come to expect from Amazon. It was easy you handle when running it to several rooms and through holds that have other cables or wires already running through them. When stetting up terminations weather it a female or male connector it was without trouble.
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2 of 2 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Good Product, April 3, 2007
I needed some cable for home networking and this was the best buy I found. I was very satisfied with the results. Shielding is pretty good and had no problems from the cables. This is definitely a better buy than buying several precut cables separate.
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2 of 2 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Very good cable, at a very good price!, May 27, 2007
This is very good Cat5E cable. Easy to crimp, and great signal. I have used almost all of the cable, and never had a problem with connectivity. Great product!
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4 of 5 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Good cable, fair price, March 10, 2007
By 
Kevin Savetz (Blue Lake, CA USA) - See all my reviews
(REAL NAME)   
Verified Purchase(What's this?)
It does the job and the price is fair. Not much else to say.
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1 of 1 people found the following review helpful
4.0 out of 5 stars Nice cable, January 24, 2014
Verified Purchase(What's this?)
A good cable worth the money. Only wish it had the string inside to rip the insulation, but can live without.
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