Customer Reviews

CYCLE TANK SEALER KIT by KBS Coatings

5 star:		(3)
4 star:		(2)
3 star:		(0)
2 star:		(0)
1 star:		(1)

 

 

Don't assume you understand the process if you've never done it before. Talk to someone who's done this type of thing before ... or better yet, read on.

If your tank has lots of rust and sediment build-up ... or even if it doesn't, still use this tip as it can only help.
Along with using BOILING hot water and cleaner, pour in a cup of aquarium gravel. (No bigger than pea-sized rocks) Pour the rocks in, hot water, and cleaner.
Wear gloves as the metal tank will quickly become the same temperature as the boiling hot water you just poured in.
---===MAKE SURE TO REMOVE PETCOCK AND CAP THE HOLE===---
Shake it, shake it ... and when you've started to sweat, shake it some more! (Wear ear-protection because it will be VERY loud and annoying)

After this, the rust-blast works effortlessly ... it will take some time but requires occasional turning and sloshing to keep everyone wet with the rust-blast. Before pouring out, peer inside with flashlight ... if you still see rust specs then give it more time. I was amazed at how well this stuff works. I was honestly very doubtful given the condition of my tank. When it's done, the inside of the tank will look like a brand new tank that's never seen moisture.

Rinse with water thoroughly, then use a hairdryer or shop-vac (set to blow) to dry the tank out quickly. If you leave it dry naturally, it WILL rust again. Once completely dry, let it rest for an hour to get to room temperature. After dry, the inside will have a slightly chaulky (white) look, this is the metal etch that's in the rust-blast that helps the sealer adhere to the metal.

Proceed with sealant ... they aren't joking when the instructions say, BE PATIENT and work the sealant around for 30 minutes. Literally find a comfortable place to sit, with tasty libation nearby, and rotate the tank slowly, but constantly for 30-45 minutes. After times up, pour the bulk back into the can.

I then set my tank upside down on an old tuber-ware (don't use your wife's favorite for your own safety) and let it drip the residual out. Remember to remove the cap you put on the petcock hole and clean the threads well while the sealant is wet. You will NOT be able to get it off after it has dried. Find an out-of-the-way place to set the tank upside down to drip out ... I left mine sitting there for the 96 hour cure-time.
One last tip, I was unable to remove my tank-lid cap so when it came to letting it drip dry after sealant was poured in ... I put a rubber glove over the lid and fastened it there with a rubber-band and twist-tie (bread-tie) to keep the sealant off.

With the left over sealant, which dries very nicely and provides a durable coat, I painted several parts on the bike that see chemicals and lubes. This will make for easy cleaning later.

Most of this is common sense, except the aquarium rocks ... a veteran mechanic gave me that tip. I had actually gone thru the entire process and was about to pour sealant when he advised redo-ing the cleaning portion. I was amazed at the amount of crap (rust flakes, dirt and other things that shouldn't be in a gas tank) that came out. Had to order more rust-blast as it, understandably, was exhausted during the first application.

This product works exactly as described. I repaired a 1967 Honda S90 Fuel Tank with this product and it removed the rust and sealed it very well. All of the rust was not removed, but they were clear in the instructions that this was not necessary. The key is not to rush the project and follow the instructions exactly. If I were to do it again, I would spend a little more time on the rust removal step since I only repeated it 2X. Good product that I would recommend to anyone.

This order came in faster than KBS's email said it would.

The online support and call support is VERY good and timely.

Coated the tank today and the gold standard seal is rock solid.

Highly recommended

The item came promptly even before the estimated arrival date. Completely cleaned a very rusted bike tank and saved me about $300 to buy a new tank. The instructions were clear and easy to follow and got the job done. Would recommend this to anyone who is restoring a bike or is sealing it to prevent rust.

Very pleased with the service and product. The shippers could not find my address, and the company immediately called me to get the problem corrected. The product was easy to use, and provided the results I was expecting. The rust particles do not get into the carburetor now.

I bought this product from KBS off of ebay a year ago. I just got around today in coating my tank. I first want to say that this is my 3rd tank I have sealed. The first two, (not by this manufacturer) came out excellent.

The tank I sealed today was in excellent condition. It probably didn't even need to be coated, but because the tank sat on a shelf for a few years, it had a very slight layer of surface powder rust on it. I wanted to clean it up before I resold it on ebay, thus I bought this product to make the tank mint.

I followed the instructions perfectly. No shortcuts, what-so-ever. I swashed the cleaner for 24 hours in the tank. I then used the etcher and swashed that around for an hour, five minutes on a side, then another side for 5 minutes and another and another for an hour, then shook and shook.

I rinsed the etcher in water for about 15 minutes, shaking vigorously. Then the hair dryer on hot and high pointed in the gas hole for over an hour to dry it out. Looked good! I then used the sealer on it. Stirred it slowly (silver in color) and poured it in. I turned the tank over and over to make sure I coated it evenly for about 30 minutes.

Well, looking at it, I got blisters and severe blistering. WTF??? What did I do wrong? Too old of a product?

Reading the instructions, only way to solve the problem is to re-strip it again. Really, another $50 bucks? I am not stripping it again, thus I chucked the tank in the dumpster. Thanks for wasting 4 hours of my time and about $150 dollar loss.