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Cheese and Culture: A History of Cheese and its Place in Western Civilization [Hardcover]

Paul Kindstedt
3.8 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (32 customer reviews)

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Book Description

April 1, 2012

Behind every traditional type of cheese there is a fascinating story. By examining the role of the cheesemaker throughout world history and by understanding a few basic principles of cheese science and technology, we can see how different cheeses have been shaped by and tailored to their surrounding environment, as well as defined by their social and cultural context. Cheese and Culture endeavors to advance our appreciation of cheese origins by viewing human history through the eyes of a cheese scientist.

There is also a larger story to be told, a grand narrative that binds all cheeses together into a single history that started with the discovery of cheese making and that is still unfolding to this day. This book reconstructs that 9000-year story based on the often fragmentary information that we have available. Cheese and Culture embarks on a journey that begins in the Neolithic Age and winds its way through the ensuing centuries to the present. This tour through cheese history intersects with some of the pivotal periods in human prehistory and ancient, classical, medieval, renaissance, and modern history that have shaped western civilization, for these periods also shaped the lives of cheesemakers and the diverse cheeses that they developed. The book offers a useful lens through which to view our twenty-first century attitudes toward cheese that we have inherited from our past, and our attitudes about the food system more broadly.

This refreshingly original book will appeal to anyone who loves history, food, and especially good cheese.


Frequently Bought Together

Cheese and Culture: A History of Cheese and its Place in Western Civilization + Mastering Cheese: Lessons for Connoisseurship from a Maître Fromager + Artisan Cheese Making at Home: Techniques & Recipes for Mastering World-Class Cheeses
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Editorial Reviews

From Booklist

In this scholarly yet accessible history of cheese, noted food scientist Kindstedt plumbs the very earliest evidence of cheese making. Beginning in the shadowy Neolithic era, improving climatic conditions encouraged sheep and goat herding throughout the Fertile Crescent. Manufacture of pottery made possible the storage of excess milk and provided a transportation medium. Primitive acid-coagulated cheeses emerged for local consumption, but the discovery of rennet coagulation made possible hard cheeses with long shelf lives that could readily be shipped across land and sea. During the Middle Ages, innovative European monastic communities developed sophisticated techniques that generated a tremendous diversity of cheeses. Cheddar and Stilton shone in England, France became famous for its Roquefort and Gruyère, and Holland marketed Gouda and Edam. Colonization of the New World and the Industrial Revolution gave rise to today’s mass-produced cheeses, not always to the benefit of quality or flavor. --Mark Knoblauch

Review

"All honor and respect to Aristaious -- the Greek god who taught us to make cheese -- and to Paul Kindstedt, who in Cheese and Culture teaches us its glorious history ever since."--Rob Kaufelt, proprietor, Murray's Cheese NYC



"From the Garden of Eden to the dairy industries of today, Paul S. Kindstedt unfolds the monumental story of cheese. Vast in scope, rich in detail, Cheese and Culture is a casein-inspired epic."--Eric LeMay, author of Immortal Milk



"Cheese and Culture is the book both cheese professionals and cheese geeks have been waiting for. Professor Kindstedt gives us the mostly untold history of cheese and its societal import from 6500 BC to the present, answering all my cheese questions -- even the ones I didn't know I had. Cheese and Culture is the most comprehensive cheese book ever written by an American, a great addition to our collective cheese library."--Gordon Edgar, cheese buyer, Rainbow Grocery Cooperative, San Francisco, and author of Cheesemonger: A Life on the Wedge



"In this painstakingly researched yet passion-laced book, Paul Kindstedt shows us how cheese, from its rudimentary beginnings to today's manufacturing, is inextricably linked to culture and, no less, to our future. Cheese and Culture is essential reading for anyone who loves cheese and, equally, cares about the future of food itself."--Laura Werlin, author, Laura Werlin's Cheese Essentials



"I love this book - accessible in its prose and style with the breadth and depth of an academic work. All those interested in the role that cheesemaking has played in the development of the world we live in will come away after reading this book with context and understanding, and an intellectual appreciation of why cheese appeals to so many people at an emotional level. Paul Kindstedt has produced a seminal work in Cheese and Culture."--Mateo Kehler, cheesemaker, Jasper Hill Farm



"Paul Kindstedt has fashioned a remarkable book about one of humankind's most distinctive foods. Drawing upon comprehensive evidence from archaeology to contemporary artisan cheese making, Dr. Kindstedt shapes the complex story of cheese. He examines the impact of geography and climate, religion, social status and wealth, transportation and commerce... to describe and explain the 8,500-year evolution of cheese from Neolithic humans to present-day America. From archaeologists and anthropologists and historians to cheesemakers and consumers who want to deepen their understanding and appreciation of cheese, Dr. Kindstedt's book will enlighten, entertain, and reveal the fascinating history and culture of cheese. Bravissimi e complimenti!"--Jeffrey Roberts, New England Culinary Institute, and author of The Atlas of American Artisan Cheese



"Only a true scholar could weave together the complexity of history, anthropology, language, geography, religion and science to inform and enlighten our understanding of the evolution of cheese making throughout the millennia. Kindstedt, first and foremost with his discerning scientific mind, helps historians inform the heretofore mysteries in the cheese making continuum."--Catherine Donnelly, PhD, co-director, Vermont Institute for Artisan Cheese



"Dr. Kindstedt's love and passion for the artisan cheese movement is inspiring. In his latest book, he has presented a beautiful and historically rich mosaic of the history of cheese on our little green planet. With reference to the past, and detailed attention paid to the present, as well as extrospection for the future, Dr. Kindstedt has created an amalgamation of artisan cheese reference, the like of which has not been attempted before."--Matt Jennings, co-owner/executive chef, Farmstead/La Laiterie, Providence, RI



"This book will fascinate anyone who loves cheese. With a sweeping perspective, from the earliest prehistoric domestication of goats and sheep to the present, it chronicles how social, technological, and political developments gave rise to the vast array of cheeses we know and love."--Sandor Ellix Katz, author of The Art of Fermentation, The Revolution Will Not Be Microwaved, and Wild Fermentation



"No cheese lover or cheesemaker's education will be complete without reading of the epic journey of cheese as it influences and is influenced by human civilization. Paul Kindstedt steers the reader through a vast sea of history with the steady, inspired hand and confidence of a seasoned captain of his subject. What a gift to the world of cheese!"--Gianaclis Caldwell, cheesemaker, Pholia Farm, and author of The Farmstead Creamery Advisor



"Given the vast amount that's been written about cheese down the centuries, the surprising absence of a scholarly work on the history of cheese is all the more remarkable. With Cheese and Culture, noted dairy scientist and author Paul Kindstedt has admirably filled this gap to an extent that should satisfy even the most avid cheese geek."--Kate Arding, co-founder, Culture magazine



Library Journal-
Kindstedt (food science, Univ. of Vermont) delivers an extensively researched and comprehensive history of cheese and its place in the development of Western civilization. Beginning with the ancient origins of cheese making and moving through the classical, medieval, and Renaissance periods to the modern era, the author examines the traditional cheeses that came about during each period and how they were tailored to the environment and culture of the time. Finally, he explores the friction that has developed between the United States and the European Union over issues surrounding cheese making and trade, such as protecting traditional product names, food safety regulation, and the use of new agricultural technologies such as genetically modified organisms (GMOs) and hormones. VERDICT: Incorporating archaeology, religion, and literature, this detailed, accessible history will appeal to readers who enjoy food histories.



Choice-
Cheese scientist Kindstedt (Univ. of Vermont) has written a lively history of cheese through an examination of the cultural environments from which specific types of cheese-making traditions were born and, in some cases, have continued to the present. Kindstedt begins as early as possible with archaeological evidence of early fresh cheese making in the Fertile Crescent and its role in pre-Christian religious ritual. He quickly moves on to the introduction of rennet in cheese making and cheese in Greek and Roman civilizations and incorporation into daily life, both mundane and sacred. The last half of the book concentrates on the European cheese-making tradition and the role of monasteries in the development of aged cheeses. Surprisingly, Kindstedt does not spend too much time discussing factory-made cheese and the move away from traditional cheese making. But he does end with a timely discussion on raw milk safety and multinational trade laws that impact traditional cheeses, as well as a brief discussion on the artisanal cheese movement. Cheese and Culture is a well-researched, concise, and valuable addition to any food history collection. Summing Up: Highly recommended. Lower-division undergraduates through graduate students; general readers.



ForeWord Reviews-
Cheese, glorious cheese. Who knew the 9,000 years of innovation, lore, history, and romance in your story? Who knew skim milk cheeses initially flourished not for diet reasons, but because they were cheaper for London’s working-classes? That higher-temperature cooking techniques contributed to the development of dry and aged cheeses? Or that economics, religion, social mores, climate, and—well, nearly anything—has influenced the evolution of cheese in all its forms, styles, tastes, shapes, and uses? Paul S. Kindstedt knows, and now, through his impeccably researched, and carefully assembled book, any cheese lover can know, too.  Kindstedt’s is a book written with scholarly rigor; yet, that detail-laden precision also makes it palatable for foodies curious about how and why food choices, production, and tastes have emerged over centuries—the person jazzed to learn, for example, that ‘Grated cheese seems to have occupied a special place in Greek culture’ indicated by a wounded soldier being served ‘an elixir consisting of Pramnian wine on which (his slave) sprinkles goat’s-milk cheese, grated with a bronze grater,’ or that the seasonal movement of cows across south-central France inspired techniques for producing longer-lasting mountain cheeses. Like the range of cheeses available today, at times Cheese and Culture can be overwhelming, and the chapter on regulation reads like an alphabet soup of agency abbreviations and acronyms. But, like the veined or sharply flavored offerings on a cheese plate, one could choose to skip it and still be satiated.


Product Details

  • Hardcover: 272 pages
  • Publisher: Chelsea Green Publishing; First Edition edition (April 1, 2012)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 1603584110
  • ISBN-13: 978-1603584111
  • Product Dimensions: 6.1 x 1 x 9.2 inches
  • Shipping Weight: 1.4 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
  • Average Customer Review: 3.8 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (32 customer reviews)
  • Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #187,767 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

More About the Author

Paul Kindstedt, Ph.D., is a professor at the University of Vermont in the department of Nutrition and Food Sciences. He teaches Dairy Chemistry, Fermented Dairy Foods, and Cheese and Culture.

Customer Reviews

Most Helpful Customer Reviews
4 of 5 people found the following review helpful
3.0 out of 5 stars The people and cheese May 4, 2012
Format:Hardcover|Amazon Vine™ Review (What's this?)
Paul Kindsted has written a detailed history from Cain and Abel to today. Much of the first 125 pages of the book deals with tribal and population movements and how they obtained their food. At points, the proof and evidence of cheese's history seems strained, reaching into ancients texts including the Bible for mention of curds and whey. There is much emphasis on the importance of cheese in "religious expression and cultic practices". Sometimes it seems as if the emergence of cheese involves much speculation on evidence left on shards of pottery. Throughout the book there are numerous citations in the text, for example (Casson 1954, Migeotte 2009). It can be a hindrance to smooth reading, but does add to the academic credibility.

Comparisons of embryology and rennet coagulation are made. Some statements might make a reader do a double take such as, "from the linage of David, a thousand years later, would come the son of a carpenter, whose influence on western civilization and cheese making was arguably greater than that of any other person."

The second half of the book dwells more with where specific types of cheeses were developed and how, why they wound up with certain flavors and physical characteristics. This book contains a multitude of facts, such as; the rise in grain production, how the product of bread cereals collapse in "Holland, the physical structure of peat bogs all leading to cheese production, the American Revolution and slave trade. The changes in regulations concerning cheese in the European Union and worldwide is also covered.
This is a book for readers wishing to delve deeply into cheese and a more massive amount of details that surround it.
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1 of 1 people found the following review helpful
3.0 out of 5 stars Dry and at times off topic March 8, 2013
By Bill
Format:Paperback|Amazon Verified Purchase
This book was OK, not great. I had hoped that this book would be to cheese what the book Salt was to ... well...salt, but it was a big let down.

First, it is really dry in the beginning the author did not do a very good job of telling a story. I was actually warned by others that this book was dry, but I said it was OK because I liked dry cheese. :-) He basically just wrote down facts. He didn't breath any life into the subject, I know several people who gave up on the book at this point. You have to get through the first 50 or 60 pages before the book gets interesting.

In addition, his Christian beliefs just permeated the book which really distracted from the subject. The author seems to focus almost the first half of the book on the Middle East. So much was spent just on Israel when I am sure that there was a lot to discussed in other parts of world in relation to cheese. I suspect that he has a great deal of interest in that part of the world because of his obvious beliefs.

Most chapters open with Bible quotes or quotes from Christians in history. Whenever he could think of the thinest execuse to go into long, and at times tedious detail, of Christianity he would do so for pages. At one point he even works in a discussion of gnosticism!!! A good editor should have cut a lot of this.

Please do not misunderstand me, I don't have anything against Christianity, but it was really a stretch to be so focused on Christianity in a book about cheese. If I want to read about Christianity, I will get a book on that subject. I wanted to read a book on Cheese. I mean rather than use all those pages discussing religion, it would have been great to read a discussion on cheese. He could have developed a better discussion on the various tyes and production methods.
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1 of 1 people found the following review helpful
4.0 out of 5 stars Interesting, Well Documented January 10, 2013
Format:Hardcover|Amazon Vine™ Review (What's this?)
I live in Vermont, not far from one of the largest co-ops in the state. The cheese counter is unbelievable - one of the biggest I've ever seen, with several hundred possibilities to choose from over the course of a year. But then, this is Vermont and we make cheese here. So, I shouldn't have been surprised to learn that we have a Dairy Science program at our state university and that one of the professors in that program is very interested in cheese making and the history of cheese.

Cheese and Culture: A History of Cheese and its Place in Western Civilization is a thorough treatment of the development of cheese, perhaps the very first "processed food", over the ages, beginning with the origins of cheese making during the Paleolithic Era, through ancient Rome and the Middle Ages to the present day. Kindstedt draws on both archeology and the written record to tell an interesting and well documented tale of the development of cheese, in all its multitude of variety.

This is clearly not a coffee table book full of pretty pictures but a serious academic work that those who enjoy history, particularly food history, will find an interesting read. Worth a read.
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1 of 1 people found the following review helpful
3.0 out of 5 stars "Dry and crumbly: Parmesan in a can" June 26, 2012
Format:Hardcover|Amazon Vine™ Review (What's this?)
If you've ever had real grated Parmesan, the stuff served in the green metallic can is so devoid of flavor and character that you wonder how anyone could eat the stuff. When I read the book, I was expecting that burst of umami from a well aged Reggiano but instead got cheese whiz.

The title and description of the book led me to believe it would be a book like Salt or Cod: a deep history of a food staple and how it intersected with history. Instead this was an academic survey of Western Civilization briefly mentioning cheese when appropriate. I was terribly disappointed. Rather than cheese being the main course, it was an unappetizing side dish.

This book assumes absolutely no background in Western Civ and wastes a great deal of time and the reader's energy explaining the very basics starting with ancient Mesopotamia and working the way to modern times. In each section of the book, after establishing the details of the time period, it only briefly mentions how that society approached cheese and dairy.

The sections of the book that actually talked about cheese were fascinating. The author quickly debunks the myth that discovery of cheese was some happy accident but rather was well grounded in ancient societies and cheese was a much bigger deal than my high school teachers made it out to be. The idea of a "bloodless sacrifice" for many religions was a great view into why cheese production was a big deal. Other interesting trivia facts I enjoyed were why cheese wheels are round and why certain cheeses differ so much in taste. Cheese is very much like wine: they are based on one primary ingredient and all the characteristics come from the nuances of the region.
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Most Recent Customer Reviews
4.0 out of 5 stars Sugar -- Salt -- And Cheese
There are many books about the history of sugar and its impact upon civilization and the growth of life in the western hemisphere. Read more
Published 1 month ago by Jo Ann Graham
3.0 out of 5 stars Ought to be entitled "Cheese and Commerce"
The author does a good job of covering the development of technologies that allowed cheese to be stored for long periods and shipped easily but does not provide much coverage of... Read more
Published 1 month ago by Israel Ramirez
5.0 out of 5 stars history through cheese, not just the history of cheese
Great look at history, through the lens of cheese. Truly, this book takes us from the beginnings of civilization, to the current time, by looking at cheese. Read more
Published 4 months ago by Just Me
5.0 out of 5 stars History & Cheese - Great Together!
I loved this book.

From a historical perspective, it's a very readable (and thoroughly footnoted) tale of how societies influenced one another's development in... Read more
Published 4 months ago by George B. Langdon
4.0 out of 5 stars Interesting historical review
You have to be into cheese, the dairy industry or the mysteries of the history of anthropology to really aprecieate the book. Read more
Published 5 months ago by Julie Kuhn
4.0 out of 5 stars erudiite fun for the food historian
The main virtue of this book is that it places dairying and cheese-making in its context as part of the history of European food and technology. Read more
Published 5 months ago by Lynn Hoffman, author:The Short Course in Beer
5.0 out of 5 stars Gave as a gift and was loved!
Because the party that received this loved the book. This was given as a gift. Good price. Pleased with the quick arrival of my merchandise.
Published 7 months ago by Lisa rios
4.0 out of 5 stars Very Informative, But Also Drab at Times.
I love food. I'm a total foodie. I read books about all kinds of food. So when I got this I was very excited. Read more
Published 8 months ago by T. Young
5.0 out of 5 stars A little dry, but five stars for content
Author Paul Kindstedt shows in Cheese and Culture: A History of Cheese and its Place in Western Civilization how cheese is linked to culture and to our future. Read more
Published 8 months ago by Tooncesmom
4.0 out of 5 stars A scholarly treatise about the migration of cheese
I enjoyed this book but I am a history buff and I love reading about how techniques of food production developed and were passed on to other cultures. Read more
Published 8 months ago by andiesenji
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