Customer Reviews

Cheese Primer

5 star:		(23)
4 star:		(13)
3 star:		(5)
2 star:		(0)
1 star:		(0)

 

 

If Anthony Bourdain's motto in "A Cook's Tour" is "Eat what the locals eat," the author of "Steven Jenkins Cheese Primer" (no apostrophe) might add the corollary, "Don't eat what the locals eat if you're not where the locals are." For one of the most important, if depressing, pieces of information in this info-packed book is that we in this country are banned, through the wisdom of our government, from eating authentic European cheeses the way they were intended to be eaten (i.e., made from unpasteurized milk). As a result, many "European" cheeses sold in the US, Jenkins tells us, are pallid and bland -- if not downright heretical -- imitations of their European namesakes. If we want to try, for example, a "real" Camembert, we'll just have to wait until we get to France.

(Interestingly, Camembert cheese is not made in the village of Camembert, Jenkins informs us, nor is cheddar cheese made in the English town of Cheddar. Not any more, anyway. And needless to say, "real" cheddar cheese is apparently a very different thing from the mass-produced yellow bricks we find in our grocery store.)

The cover of this book describes Steven Jenkins as "America's most opinionated authority" when it comes to cheese, and I've no doubt that's true. His opinions do in fact come through loud and clear. As with any "authority" on matters of taste, you can give his opinions as much weight as you think they deserve. There's no question, though, that Jenkins is immensely informed about his topic. And if you feel a little self-conscious carrying this Primer to your local *crémerie*, rest assured that it would still be easier than trying to memorize all the facts, tips, recommendations, and warnings the book contains.

`Cheese Primer' by a leading American `fromagerie' (sic), Steven Jenkins is a typical Workman Publishing slick treatment of a subject in a relatively inexpensive trade paperback format which is great to look at and promises lots of useful information on it's subject. This, like most of Workman's similar titles largely delivers on its promise, but it does not quite live up to its moniker as a `Primer'. The primary reason for this is that it does live up to the promise that the author is `America's most opinionated authority'.

There is no question that Monsieur Jenkins knows his stuff. He is especially well versed on artisinal cheeses from around the world, especially in France, Italy, Spain, and the United States. In fact, one of the most salutary discoveries in this book is that the good old U. S. of A is developing a really decent artisinal cheese industry, California cows notwithstanding.

The main problem with the book is that it did not answer in a good `Cheese for Dummies' way, some of the primary questions I had about cheese. For example, there was no spiffy table giving the primary characteristics of the world's major cheeses. This is expecially important as France alone, with its more than 400 named types of cheeses have dozens which fall into the same general type. This is expecially important when we find that our A-list cheeses may not be available, but a differently named cheese with very similar properties is available and at a substantially reduced price. The author very accurately states that it is simply not possible to pidgeon-hole all cheeses into particular types, as there is so much overlap. This is why we need a tabular presentation of cheese properties. What, for example makes Camembert, Brie, and Roquefort similar and what makes them different from one another.

One of my greatest affirmations from this book is the fact that while France enjoys the reputation of being THE great cheese making country of the world, Italy actually imports a lot more by weight than does France. This is really not too surprising as most of France's great cheeses are soft and do not travel that well, while the stars of Italian cheesemaking are the hard grana-like cheeses, lead by the regal Parmisano-Reggiano and the princely Pecarino Romano. Italian cheeses are one of the four legs on which it's great cuisine sits, along with its wine, charcuterie, and pasta, with a special mention due to its bread making, which is exported more in concept than in substance.

This book is great as a second book on cheese, serving as a reference on the salient features of our most important cheeses. It's recommendations on serving cheese are just a bit too fussy for everyday use. I noticed this especially when I saw Jenkins recommend for a cheese platter a cheese which was very difficult to obtain anywhere in the country except in the very largest cities with major cheese shops.

I was also surprised that the book gives no list of sources, even if they are only good for the locals. Where is the plug for the Texas outfit which makes mozzarella or my favorite DePaolo cheese shop in New York's Little Italy. Where is the plug for Murray's Cheese, also in New York City. We only get mentions of places where Mr. Jenkins has worked.

If you love cheese and you can get a copy of this book for under $10, this is a good buy. Otherwise, keep looking.

I worked as a cheesemonger for five years, have shopped at Mr. Jenkins counter at Fairway in NYC, and have attended American Cheese Society conferences where he has spoken. When I've heard him speak, he has always admitted that there is incorrect and out of date information in this book - it was published in 1996, and since then, some cheeses that were unavailable in the U.S., or only available in pasteurized versions have become available or additionally available in raw milk versions. For example, on p. 159, he states that Bleu d'Auvergne is only made with pasteurized milk. There are versions now that you can buy in the U.S. made with raw milk and have been for at least five years.

It's not a huge problem for a casual reader that there are errors in the book - though some of them are factual, many of them are changes caused by the growth in interest in good cheese in the U.S. Availability is changeable, and we get to eat more delicious treasures because of greater interest in cheeses here in America, which includes the promotion of cheeses by Mr. Jenkins. I've heard that he's working on a second edition, but that was a couple years ago, and a revision of a work like this is certainly a long process.

That being said, the picture on p. 116 *is* captioned incorrectly. The text above the picture is about Emmentaler. A wheel of Emmentaler (originally from Bern, a bulging Swiss cheese with holes produced by the action of innocuous bacteria added to the curd in production and a smooth, brushed rind) is identified as a wheel of Comte (a cheese from the Franche-Comte region of France with a few small holes, and a flat, bumpy, natural brown rind, pictured on p. 114). This is obviously an editing mistake. Believe me, your average book editor is not going to be identify cheeses by sight at ten paces as a cheesemonger can. If you turn the book upside down and look closely, you will be able to read the words "Grand Cru" on the top of the cheese. It's Grand Cru Emmentaler.

Mr. Jenkins tells us himself, "I'm opinionated about flavor and pull no punches." He is opinionated, and his likes and dislikes come through strongly. Don't decide to dismiss a cheese entirely because he doesn't like it, or accept it just because he loves it. You just can't do that with food. This is a chatty, enjoyable, conversational read, but if you want to learn about cheese, don't just read this book. Read others too, and *most importantly*, go out and meet your local cheesemonger and taste all the different types of cheese you can!

I credit this book with opening my eyes to the wide world of cheese. As a true neophyte, I use this book as a starting point whenever I head out to Whole Foods to bring another cheese back to the family (sorry, The Cheese Shop in Beverly Hills is just too darned far). Do keep in mind two things about this book. One, it is a cheese primer, not the bible of all things cheese. Use it to pique your curiousity and to get ideas. Two, taste is subjective and just because a cheese expert likes something does not mean you will (and vice versa). Take Taleggio and Oka. Mr. Jenkins finds Taleggio to be sublime and meaty. I find it to be stinky and bad tasting. Mr. Jenkins finds Oka to be stinky and mediocre. I think it rocks (my wife does find it stinky, though--okay it's a bit stinky but it tastes really good). He's also dismissive of Mimolette while my whole family loves it. Not a ding against Mr. Jenkins, though, because I would not have tried Mimolette if his book had not inspired me to try everything. Just remember to take his subjective opinions with a grain of salt and you will be fine.

I intended to use this book as a reference book -- but I found that I could not put it down! I actually read it cover to cover. The author's descriptions are incredibly seductive and not pretentious in the least. It is amazing how accurately he is able to capture in words something as elusive as the taste of different cheeses. I only wish he had included names of recommended cheese shops in America!

I picked up a copy of Steve Jenkins' Cheese Primer because I have a great interest in the fine cheeses of the world. I thought it would be a good reference to consult whenever I wanted to try something new, or remember something old. But I began reading the introduction and found myself entranced by his writing style. His strong voice, unyielding opinions, and prosaic descriptions make for a thoroughly entertaining read -- AND it's the best cheese reference book around. If you like cheese, or just good writing, or both, buy this book!

A good introduction to cheese, with details about specific European cheeses (especially French) for the more advanced cheesehead. Good general overviews of the countries, and comments about some of the strengths and short-comings of each. Unfortunately, this book is going on 12 years old so it's almost irrelevant for locating specific cheeses.
The section on the U.S. is especially out-of-date as the artisinal industry has continued to explode since publishing. Worth a buy and a browse for $10, but there must be something better out there.

The book is required reading for anyone claiming to have a serious interest in cheese or, for that matter, food (excepting certain dietary restrictions, of course). After explaining the history, manufacturing and aging processes, and identifying and describing the various cheese categories that result from those processes, Jenkins then takes the reader on a world tour of important cheese-producing countries, and on a region-by-region basis introduces him to the important indigenous cheeses, their variations, their histories, and which other cheeses--if any--are similar. Tips on how to buy (including what to look for and what to avoid), serving suggestions, and the wines and side dishes that best partner each selection are also included; the storage tips are invaluable (and most cost-effective). Also included are some easy, KICKIN' recipes, including one for the best corn chowder I've ever tasted (cut the dill by half, though). The reader is not only made aware of the existence and availability of cheeses of which he's never heard, but which--based on their description--he might be most inclined to enjoy. In fact, if this book possesses any flaw at all (excepting the crummy paper already noted by previous reviewers), it's that it could really use an update--many cheeses have come and gone since its first appearance, and some listed are now--horrors--made from pasteurized milk.
It's indeed unfortunate that our government, in its infinite wisdom, has taken upon itself the responsibility for protecting us from the dangers of <60-days-old cheeses made from raw milk. I suppose their hands are tied though, in view of the fact that consumers in other, less-enlightened parts of the world are dropping like flies due to their consumption of these deadly cheeses. Indeed, one is forced to wonder how, in light of such devastation, anyone is even left to manufacture these lethal foodstuffs. Fortunately, we'll be avenged for Pearl Harbor: European cheese producers can't keep up with Japanese demand for raw milk cheeses. (Is my bitterness at this stupidity apparent yet? Forgive me; a Libertarian-type rant, especially where my tastebuds are concerned, is often a good catharsis.)
I'm lucky enough to be able to pick Steve's brain personally while doing my shopping at Fairway in NYC, and have been doing so at every opportunity for the last several years. This is not only rewarding for the most obvious reason--that I learn from a master about the four foods that most interest me: cheese, olive oil, honey, and balsamic--but it also provides the ego-enhancing benefit of having him take my own food tips and experiences seriously when I have any to pass along. Fairway is a unique shopping experience that can be likened to visiting friends who happen to purvey an eclectic range of foods at great prices; indeed, it really is "like no other market." It's the pleasantest, most rewarding food shopping in Manhattan and I'm proud to include Steve as a friend.
FLASH! Cheese Primer is now a shiny hardcover! All else is the same, but it's now more or less kitchen-proof and a lot sturdier. Nice touch!

If you're obsessed with cheese, if you plan your weekends and vacations around cheese, if you served on FFA dairy judging teams, if you go to the cheese coolers at the grocers first, if you correct people on their pronunciation of Gouda, if you've had cheese omelettes for breakfast, cheese soup for lunch and cheese casserole for supper - all in one day, then you're a cheese person understood only by other cheese persons. This book is recommended for your private cheese library.

Evidently the reviewer whose words are displayed below has something personal against Steven Jenkins. What's the deal with that? No one in their right mind who knows and loves cheese would ever feel that way about this fabulous book. In any case, be advised that the reviewer below is flat-out wrong on almost all of the errors he cites from the Cheese Primer. I repeat: they do not exist! Not only is the cheese in the picture on page 116 indeed Compte (one of the said reviewer's "favorite" errors), but for it to be msitaken for Grand Cru Emmenthal is not only a careless, but utterly misinformed remark. As for the cheeses the anonymous reviewer (too ashamed to reveal his name!) describes as "boring" and "mundane", their very appeal lies in their ability to intensify and flourish as time goes by. Perhaps someone doesn't have the patience to wait until his cheese have arrived at the appropriate age.

When determining the quality of fine cheese, why take the word of an anonymous reviewer rather than someone who ahs obviously worked with cheese for more than 30 years, and has travelled all over the world simply to examine it like Steven Jenkins has?! Perhaps if this reviewer's name were confident enough about his opinions to post his name, one might feel more confidence in his review; also, we Amazon shoppers could judge his credibilty for ourselves.

In any case, Steven Jenkins' Cheese Primer, to these eyes (and nose, and most importantly, taste buds)seems to be refreshingly lucid, awesomely comprehenseive and chock-full of fromage jewels from anywhere and everywhere. A good buy!