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CircuitWriter Precision Pen silver-based 4 grams - CW100P

3.6 out of 5 stars 95 customer reviews
| 13 answered questions

Price: $21.45 & FREE Shipping on orders over $49. Details
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  • Apply instant traces on most surfaces (epoxy, glass, plastic, metal)
  • Draw traces on circuit boards, repair defective traces
  • Make jumpers and shield electronics
  • Design prototype circuits and repair rear-window heater traces
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$21.45 & FREE Shipping on orders over $49. Details In Stock. Sold by Bay 15 and Fulfilled by Amazon. Gift-wrap available.


Product Description

Apply instant traces on most surfaces (epoxy, glass, plastic, metal). Draw traces on circuit boards, repair defective traces, make jumpers and shield electronics, design prototype circuits and repair rear-window heater traces. TECHNICAL INFORMATION: Color: Silver Binder: Acrylic Solids content by weight: 51.5% Density: 14.1 lbs/gal Electrical Resistance: < 0.017 ohm/sq/mil Shielding Performance: 76 Db Viscosity: 20-25 sec., 2 Zahn Cup @ 25 Oc Ideal Film Thickness: Between 0.4 and 1.0 mils Theoretical Coverage: 340 Sq ft/gal @ 1 mil VOC Content: 0.50 lbs/gal TYPICAL PROPERTIES WHEN DRIED: Sheet resistance: 0.017ohms/sq/mil (25 um) Attenuation: 76 Db Ink: Conductive Coatings: Conductive

Product Information

Technical Details

Brand Name CAIG Laboratories
Item Weight 1.9 ounces
Product Dimensions 1 x 1 x 5 inches
Number of Items 1
Manufacturer Part Number CW100P

Additional Information

ASIN B00B88B9KI
Customer Reviews
3.6 out of 5 stars 95 customer reviews

3.6 out of 5 stars
Best Sellers Rank #11,028 in Office Products (See top 100)
#1,120 in Office Products > Educational Supplies > Writing & Correction Supplies > Pens & Refills
#14,749 in Office Products > Office Supplies
Shipping Weight 1.6 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)
Date First Available August 2, 2008

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Customer Questions & Answers

Customer Reviews

Top Customer Reviews

First, shake this stuff really well before you use it and after every few seconds of use, otherwise you'll end up w/ less solids in the fluid when it is almost empty (still works but is thinner and runs easily).

I've used this to repair a few circuits. First one was my multitester - ammeter stopped working, opened it up and could see where some solder had flaked off the board where a connection was made with that instead of a trace in the board.

I've primarily used this as a solder substitute for assembling battery packs and making repairs where soldering was difficult or impossible. The product is almost like a conductive glue - it sets up pretty hard and with mild adhesion. If several coats are applied it does have decent strength, at least enough to handle the connection gently. Be sure to allow it to dry completely between coats and before testing or reinforcing the connection (its hardly conductive before drying, which is good if you screw up). Once it is set up I put a thin coat of jb weld over it to physically secure the connection.

This has allowed me to repair several devices that would otherwise have been junk, for example, a pet collar that could not be disassembled and had a broken power connection to the board. It is awesome for battery packs. I can wire them together instead of using AA battery holders, which are bulkier, restrict you to the shapes available and have a higher resistance. I just finished assembling nearly 200 nicad AAs and used less than two pens. Radioshack has this same product for $10.

I use it too fast for it to dry up on me. There is a thinner/cleaner available and the same stuff can be bought in little jars.

Wipe the tip before storing, store it with the tip pointed up and it won't get plugged.
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This stuff is incredible. Here's how it works.

Shake the bottle, remove the cap, press the tip against a surface, squeeze the tube and some goo comes out. It's about the consistency of Elmer's glue. It's conductive. It dries in about 5-10 minutes. It's a modest glue with silver particles mixed in it. If I want additional strength, I'll use a toothpick or straight pin to add some Shoe Goo (silicone, slightly flexible) or a little dab of hot-melt glue once everything is electrically secure.

To create a trace as thin as you like, cover the surrounding area with two strips of scotch tape so there's a thin gap between them. Squeeze a small dot on a piece of scrap paper, pick up a bit with a toothpick or straight pin, and paint the work area or just apply directly to the work from the tube. When it's dry, just peel off the tape and you'll have an absurdly thin, perfect, conductive trace.

As an experiment, I once created a circuit that fit entirely on the top of a 9-volt battery snap -- that's a pretty small area for a handbuilt circuit. It consisted of two 16-pin integrated circuits (LM556 timers), 8 surface-mount capacitors, 4 surface-mount resistors, 4 LED's (that flashed sequentially when triggered), wire connections, ground and power buss lines, and a piece of wire used as a switch. The twin buss lines were laid on top of the IC's, and the capacitors, resistors and wires were all connected directly to the IC's legs. Altogether there were 36 connections made with this stuff. It was actually pretty easy to do.

This level of construction is impossible without Circuit Writer.

It's also perfect for electromagnetic sealing of mating surfaces used in radio-frequency circuits.
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I used it to repair my rear window defroster and it worked nicely. However potential buyers must be aware that the tip of the "pen" is more like the tip of a squeeze correction fluid pen, not those of paint pens or ball pens. It means it is very hard to draw a straight, fine line using this pen, especially on the inside of a car rear window. And since the lines it draw are gray-ish white, they are very visible (and ugly) when seeing from the outside of the car. You can use some tapes to cover the surrounding area and make the result looks better, but it will be a lot more work.
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Verified Purchase
This worked very well and was the only way I could think of to fix the burnt copper "lines" on my dash board circuits for the dash guage lights of a 1977 Mustang. I had never done this type repair ever, and within 3 hours ( I let it dry like instructions said) I had all the lights working and was re-installing the guage cluster in the car.
In some places the circuit board sheeting with the copper traces (lines) on it was raised and wavy and since you need to press a bit hard on the pen's tip to make the stuff flow, I slid a wood ruler under it to provide support under the bad spots and then drew in new lines. I fixed 4 bad places and became concerned with one bigger one (1 Inch long) that didn t want to work or show a circuit when I tried using a tester. HOWEVER, as soon as it dried I had a compleated circuit !
I did not have a hair dryer to heat the repairs like the instructions said to do, but did use a small portable bath room heater to help speed things up. A hair dryer would have been perfect.

This circuit board is not available to buy, so this was really important for me to fix as 4 of 5 lights were out, and with no experience except reading about this type stuff on line, I choose this pen. A GOOD CHOICE. And it worked very good, and is fairly easy too. Shake well and often and go fix it !
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