The comprehensive guide to anchoring systems for rock climbers.
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Climbing Anchors provides the most comprehensive, up-to-date, and easy-to-understand information on how to place protection and construct secure anchors to safeguard your life. John Long, the author of the definitive instructional manual How to Rock Climb!, applies the same clear, concise, and entertaining prose to this updated edition, illustrated with more than 100 photos by professional climbing guide and instructor Bob Gaines.
Learn how to place and configure solid, secure anchors in a variety of real world climbing situations and see the pros and cons of many options. Natural anchors, passive chocks, mechanical chocks, fixed gear, knots, belay anchors, toprope anchors, and rappel anchors are all discussed in detail.
And, for the first time, the crucial dynamics of equalization and fall forces are thoroughly investigated, including an analysis of rigging systems. Tests conducted specifically for this book detail the true performance parameters of the cordelette, sliding X, and equalette, as opposed to the “traditional wisdom” that guided choices in the past—and was often wrong.
Based on the authors’ combined years of experience, Climbing Anchors provides all the essential knowledge needed for climbers to create safe, simple, and efficient rock climbing anchoring systems.
Learn how to place and configure solid, secure anchors in a variety of real world climbing situations and see the pros and cons of many options. Natural anchors, passive chocks, mechanical chocks, fixed gear, knots, belay anchors, toprope anchors, and rappel anchors are all discussed in detail.
And, for the first time, the crucial dynamics of equalization and fall forces are thoroughly investigated, including an analysis of rigging systems. Tests conducted specifically for this book detail the true performance parameters of the cordelette, sliding X, and equalette, as opposed to the “traditional wisdom” that guided choices in the past—and was often wrong.
Based on the authors’ combined years of experience, Climbing Anchors provides all the essential knowledge needed for climbers to create safe, simple, and efficient rock climbing anchoring systems.
About the Author
John Long is the author of the best-selling How to Rock Climb!, the world's foremost book of climbing instruction, now in its fourth edition.
Bob Gaines is an American Mountain Guides Association Certified Rock Climbing Guide and the owner/director of an AMGA-accredited rock climbing school based at Joshua Tree National Park, California.
Bob Gaines is an American Mountain Guides Association Certified Rock Climbing Guide and the owner/director of an AMGA-accredited rock climbing school based at Joshua Tree National Park, California.
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Most Helpful Customer Reviews
10 of 10 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars
Concise, informative, and well researched,
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This review is from: Climbing Anchors, 2nd Edition (How to Climb Series) (Paperback)
This is a well written and well researched book. The most significant aspect for me are the new tests on various anchors presented in the book. As a novice outdoor climber, I was most interested in rigging good top-rope anchors and was quite surpised to learn about the faults of the cordelette. Fortunately he introduces a better alternative called the equalette. He also dispels some myths about the sliding X and the fear many have of potential shock loading. The chapter where he describes the tests of various anchor setups is quite eye opening. It really begs for additional tests to be performed and has me thinking about what other false assumptions exist in this sport. A good reference and essential reading for any outdoor climber.
7 of 7 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars
Rocked my world,
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This review is from: Climbing Anchors, 2nd Edition (How to Climb Series) (Paperback)
John Long has done the climbing community a great service with the publication of his updated climbing anchor book. His previous works helped create a defacto standard for anchor construction, but suffered from a lack of objective data to support its assertions.
In this new book Long has worked with others to scientifically test the anchoring technique he popularized with his last book, the cordelette. Through this testing he discovered that the cordelette is seriously flawed as a technique for equalizing anchors and puts forth the alternative of the "equalette", a technique that he has worked with others to test extensively in the lab and the the field. I strongly recommend this book to any climber. As a climber with well over a decade of experience it challenged my assumptions and opened my eyes. George Marsden Los Alamos, NM
4 of 4 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars
Required reading for outdoor climbers,
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This review is from: Climbing Anchors, 2nd Edition (How to Climb Series) (Paperback)
I was just starting out on outdoor climbing this year when I decided I had to get this book. 'Climbing Anchors' sounded to me at first like it dealt purely with setting up top-rope and belay anchors, but it has a wealth of information on placing trad gear as well.
The first half has detailed discussions on the different types of pro, ranging from natural pro to passive/active pieces and fixed gear. John Long talks about how (and how not to) use these protection systems. It's still pretty up-to-date circa 2008, with the only omission I can think of being the Omega Linkcams. The latter part deals with falls forces and anchor-building, with a large portion devoted to equalizing anchors. Near the end Long introduces a new equalizing system called the equalette, which is both (somewhat) self-equalizing and resistant to shock loading if a component fails. After reading this book, I gained enough confidence in gear placement that I was leading easy trad within my first season of outdoor climbing. The book is well-illustrated throughout with both photographs and diagrams, and the author's assertions are backed with test data where available. It's also surprisingly readable, with the history of the various pieces of gear thrown in, as well as humorous anecdotes from his own climbing career. Overall an important book for climbers and aspiring climbers to read.
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