Customer Reviews

Climbing: From Gym to Crag

5 star:		(4)
4 star:		(2)
3 star:		(0)
2 star:		(0)
1 star:		(0)

 

 

I've been gym climbing off and on for years, mostly in the last three months as there is an excellent wall at the school I go to, and found this book to be quite helpful in getting me ready for the trip outside. I have been able to climb outside in the past only with the help of other more experienced climbers, and thanks to the help of this book and other resources, I am beginning to feel comfortable going out without the help. However, do not let this book be your only resource. There are many terms not adequately defined and several concepts are not introduced, but are referenced. For instance, the author refers to the "magic X", a method of attaching to anchors, but never defines it, and doesn't even say anything more than "use the magic x method of equalizing the anchors" for many pages. However, if you have other available sources of information, this guide can fill the gaps.

As a climbing guide I found the book accurate with easy to follow text and great photos. Novices as well as seasoned climbers will learn a ton of usefull and important techniques.

Any gym climbers who are aspiring to climb outside must buy this book. It is a very comprehensive book that helps guide the transition from gym climbing to outdoor climbing. There are detailed exercises on proper top rope placement, rappelling, self-rescue, and a number of other safety issues. The advice is clear and safe. You really should go with someone more experienced when you try these techniques, but the book makes an excellent case for being safe and going beyond what is normally done. For example, you should back up your rappel with an autoblock or a fireman's belay. Why not do this easy thing that may save your life? Your friend that teaches you how to climb may not show you these lifesaving techniques. I rarely see people back up their rappel!
As you get more experienced and want to make the transition to trad climbing, it teaches important techniques like making a multi-directional anchor for your first trad anchor by using a sliding girth hitch. It takes extra time, but it may save your life by preventing all your gear placement from zippering (popping out) after your fall. Happy climbing and safe climbing to you!

One book every climber must have. Much more specific to rock climbing than "the bible", "Mountaineering: the Freedom of the Hills".

If you and a partner go through the exercises you will be better skilled than most of the climbers on the rocks.

Covers basic skills, and has great sections on setting up Toprope anchors and placing protection on Lead.

ONLY problem is the casual use of girth-hitched slings. Girth hitching seriously reduces rope strength.

Any gym climbers who are aspiring to climb outside must buy this book. It is a very comprehensive book that helps guide the transition from gym climbing to outdoor climbing. There are detailed exercises on proper top rope placement, rappelling, self-rescue, and a number of other safety issues. The advice is clear and safe. You really should go with someone more experienced when you try these techniques, but the book makes an excellent case for being safe and going beyond what is normally done. For example, you should back up your rappel with an autoblock or a fireman's belay. Why not do this easy thing that may save your life? Your friend that teaches you how to climb may not show you these lifesaving techniques. I rarely see people back up their rappel!
As you get more experienced and want to make the transition to trad climbing, it teaches important techniques like making a multi-directional anchor for your first trad anchor by using a sliding girth hitch. It takes extra time, but it may save your life by preventing all your gear placement from zippering (popping out) after your fall. Happy climbing and safe climbing to you!

I've been gym climbing off and on for years, mostly in the last three months as there is an excellent wall at the school I go to, and found this book to be quite helpful in getting me ready for the trip outside. I have been able to climb outside in the past only with the help of other more experienced climbers, and thanks to the help of this book and other resources, I am beginning to feel comfortable going out without the help. However, do not let this book be your only resource. There are many terms not adequately defined and several concepts are not introduced, but are referenced. For instance, the author refers to the "magic X", a method of attaching to anchors, but never defines it, and doesn't even say anything more than "use the magic x method of equalizing the anchors" for many pages. However, if you have other available sources of information, this guide can fill the gaps.