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Climbing Self Rescue: Improvising Solutions for Serious Situations (Mountaineers Outdoor Expert) Paperback – May 1, 2006

24 customer reviews

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Climbing Self Rescue: Improvising Solutions for Serious Situations (Mountaineers Outdoor Expert) + Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide (Mountaineers Outdoor Expert) + Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills (Mountaineers Outdoor Experts)
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Editorial Reviews

Review

"A must-read..Those with a working knowledge of rope management and anchor systems can understand the techniques." -- Rock & Ice<br /><br />"Gem of a book...Its backpack-suitable size and laminated cover make it appropriate for field or armchair use." -- Wilderness Medicine magazine <br /><br />"Should be on the shelves of any serious, regular climber." --Midwest Book Review

About the Author

Andy Tyson is a guide for Alpine Ascents, Exum and Antarctic-logistics and Expeditions. Molly Loomis is an instructor for the National Outdoor Leadership School (NOLS), Alpine Ascents and Prescott College. Tyson is the author of Glacier Mountaineering; Loomis has written for Rock & Ice, Climbing, She Sends, and other publications.

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Product Details

  • Series: Mountaineers Outdoor Expert
  • Paperback: 256 pages
  • Publisher: Mountaineers Books (May 1, 2006)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 089886772X
  • ISBN-13: 978-0898867725
  • Product Dimensions: 8.5 x 6.9 x 0.5 inches
  • Shipping Weight: 1.2 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
  • Average Customer Review: 4.7 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (24 customer reviews)
  • Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #251,296 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

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Customer Reviews

Most Helpful Customer Reviews

13 of 13 people found the following review helpful By djsauro on August 11, 2006
Format: Paperback
I concur with the previous review. Excellent detail and a plethora of photographs to illustrate each point. This book includes a section on ascending out of a glacier crevasse as well. Andy Tyson and Molly Loomis have done a lot of research and work to put this book together to include such detail as a flow chart for you to methodically determine which rescue scenario to persue. Not only do they give qualitative data, but they included quantitative data compiled from various sources to help you understand the strengths of knots and their weaknesses as well. 29 rescue scenarios are explored for your better understanding of rescue techniques. If you have Fasulo's book, this will be a great addition to your rescue book collection. If you are just getting into rock climbing, I strongly advise seeking a mentor and purchasing this book to complement the side of climbing that many people overlook, self-rescue. Practice, practice, practice, then have someone critique your rescue skills.
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11 of 11 people found the following review helpful By GearGuy on August 4, 2006
Format: Paperback
This is currently the best book on self rescue. Tyson and Loomis provide clear instructions that are understandable to climbers new to leading and detailed enough for long-timers. There's a lot of information, so it can be a bit overwhelming, but you can quickly glean the important stuff. The final chapter offers 29 realistic scenarios with discussion on solutions that provide good food for thought.

Like first aid, even if you think you know all this stuff, it's important to refresh your knowledge. This is the definitive text on self rescue that can literally save you when the s**t hits the fan. Get it. Read it!
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4 of 4 people found the following review helpful By Sara A. Konopka on July 13, 2009
Format: Paperback
I've been climbing sport for about a year and a half, some multi-pitch. Just started leading trad this season, thought it was time to learn how to manage accidents/crises. This book has been just right for me. I have Freedom of the Hills, but this covers self-rescue in more depth ("self" means your party, as opposed to calling for search and rescue). It touches just briefly on ice climbing/big wall, covering topics that are applicable to most types of climbing. Table of contents: The Basics, Rescue Knots, Escaping a Belay, Descending, Ascending, Raising, Passing Knots, Scenarios and Solutions, Getting Outside Help (33 pages of 29 scenarios/solutions). The authors do a nice job of directing you to other resources outside the scope of the book. Concise, well organized chapters that build on each other logically. Set up to read straight through but also easy to reference specific topics/knots. Easy to follow diagrams/instructions. Nice mix of photos/illustrations.
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3 of 3 people found the following review helpful By Little Goat Services LLC on February 20, 2010
Format: Paperback Verified Purchase
I own Sylvan Rocks Climbing School here in the Black Hills of South Dakota. I see more epics (with other parties) then I care to admit. If you are going out climbing, the knowledge in this book is no optional. Gravity plays for keeps and when something bad starts and gravity takes over, its hard to stop. When it does stop, if you know how to pick up the pieces and use the knowledge offered up in this book, you will greatly improve your chances of getting yourself and your partner down safely.

Sending your project climb is perhaps more fun, but taking the time to read and practice the techniques laid out in these pages is essential knowledge. Going climbing without understanding the basics of self rescue is like driving without a seat belt. Its all fine until you need it.

When we have guest that comes to us wanting to learn how to use these skills I recommend they read this book before they spend the day with us.
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2 of 2 people found the following review helpful By Kenneth T. Spurling on May 27, 2010
Format: Paperback Verified Purchase
If you plan to climb more then one pitch or with other climbers as you should be... take a few hours out of your day to learn this information. Escaping the belay is a important process, and this book shows how to do so in several different situations. Rigging for raise and lowering is also covered very well, along with rescue situations and Reppel setup and backup. I still refer back to mine regulatly to ensure im doin things correctly. If your not sure about how you would pass a knot or raise an injuryed second this book can help.
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Format: Paperback Verified Purchase
I have several climbing books and this is by far the best organized and clearly written climbing book I've ever had. To echo what many other reviewers have already stated, this book is comprehensive yet easy to follow with step-by-step directions and diagrams/pictures to show you exactly what to do, covering all areas of self-rescue. I can't tell you how often I'll study other books where the photo sequences will skip steps in the progression, not explain what's happening, not give details on the gear, or change the perspective of the shots to further confuse the reader -- not the case at all with this book. I've tried in the past to educate myself through research on the internet, but this book will save you time and guesswork by not having to go through all the clutter and pages and pages of non-expert opinions on all the boards.
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By Jake on September 8, 2011
Format: Paperback Verified Purchase
You would be surprised at how many salty old climbers don't know that stuff in this book. I recommend this to anyone who isn't already trained in vertical rescue. This book shows you how to make do without too much gear, if you do have the extra gear you can figure out how to make your systems better. I recommend every one get their climbing buddies to read this and then GO PRACTICE, you don't want to learn in a real emergency. One overlooked point is having the other people on your team read the book, you wont be saving yourself...
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