Climbing Self Rescue: Improvising Solutions for Serious Situations (Mountaineers Outdoor Expert) [Paperback]

Andy Tyson (Author), Molly Loomis (Author)

Book Description

Publication Date: May 1, 2006 | Series: Mountaineers Outdoor Expert

When your climbing team is in trouble on the mountain—how to get yourself out of a jam without calling 911. • Self-rescue procedures for teams of two—the most common climbing party size • Techniques equally effective on rock, snow, and ice • Utilizes gear climbers already carry in their rack • Includes 40 one-page rescue scenarios and solutions for analysis The rope is stuck—or too short. A crucial piece of gear is MIA. You’ve wandered off route into dicey terrain. An injury leaves you or your partner in need of help. Climb long enough and finding yourself in a jam far from help is inevitable. In Climbing: Self Rescue, two longtime climbing instructors and guides teach how to improvise your own solutions, calling for outside help only when necessary.

Because few climbers carry fancy (and expensive) search and rescue gear, all skills taught in this book use the items typically found on a climbing rack: rope, carabiners, slings, and cord. Text, illustrations, and photos explain knots, belaying and hauling systems, rappelling, ascension, passing knots, how to safely assist and rig an injured climber, and more. Roughly half of the book is devoted to real-life climbing scenarios and solutions ranging from moderate to severe. Because real-life situations rarely unfold as they do in practice, Climbing Self-Rescue teaches how to analyze and improvise your way out of a crisis.

ANDY TYSON is a guide for Alpine Ascents, Exum and Antarctic-logistics and Expeditions. MOLLY LOOMIS is an instructor for the National Outdoor Leadership School (NOLS), Alpine Ascents and Prescott College. Tyson is the author of Glacier Mountaineering; Loomis has written for Rock & Ice, Climbing, She Sends, and other publications.

Editorial Reviews

Review

"A must-read..Those with a working knowledge of rope management and anchor systems can understand the techniques." -- Rock & Ice

"Gem of a book...Its backpack-suitable size and laminated cover make it appropriate for field or armchair use." -- Wilderness Medicine magazine

"Should be on the shelves of any serious, regular climber." --Midwest Book Review

About the Author

Andy Tyson is a guide for Alpine Ascents, Exum and Antarctic-logistics and Expeditions. Molly Loomis is an instructor for the National Outdoor Leadership School (NOLS), Alpine Ascents and Prescott College. Tyson is the author of Glacier Mountaineering; Loomis has written for Rock & Ice, Climbing, She Sends, and other publications.

Product Details

• Paperback: 256 pages
• Publisher: Mountaineers Books (May 1, 2006)
• Language: English
• ISBN-10: 089886772X
• ISBN-13: 978-0898867725
• Product Dimensions: 8.5 x 6.9 x 0.5 inches
• Shipping Weight: 1.2 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
• Average Customer Review: 4.6 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (13 customer reviews)
• Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #21,696 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
  • #5 in Books > Sports & Outdoors > Mountaineering > Rock Climbing
  • #28 in Books > Sports & Outdoors > Mountaineering > Mountain Climbing

Customer Reviews

Most Helpful Customer Reviews

12 of 12 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars Best Self-Rescue Book Money Can Buy, August 11, 2006

By 

djsauro (Warner Robins, GA) - See all my reviews

This review is from: Climbing Self Rescue: Improvising Solutions for Serious Situations (Mountaineers Outdoor Expert) (Paperback)

I concur with the previous review. Excellent detail and a plethora of photographs to illustrate each point. This book includes a section on ascending out of a glacier crevasse as well. Andy Tyson and Molly Loomis have done a lot of research and work to put this book together to include such detail as a flow chart for you to methodically determine which rescue scenario to persue. Not only do they give qualitative data, but they included quantitative data compiled from various sources to help you understand the strengths of knots and their weaknesses as well. 29 rescue scenarios are explored for your better understanding of rescue techniques. If you have Fasulo's book, this will be a great addition to your rescue book collection. If you are just getting into rock climbing, I strongly advise seeking a mentor and purchasing this book to complement the side of climbing that many people overlook, self-rescue. Practice, practice, practice, then have someone critique your rescue skills.

8 of 8 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars Essential reading for trad climbers, August 4, 2006

By 

OutdoorEnthusiast (Colorado) - See all my reviews

This review is from: Climbing Self Rescue: Improvising Solutions for Serious Situations (Mountaineers Outdoor Expert) (Paperback)

This is currently the best book on self rescue. Tyson and Loomis provide clear instructions that are understandable to climbers new to leading and detailed enough for long-timers. There's a lot of information, so it can be a bit overwhelming, but you can quickly glean the important stuff. The final chapter offers 29 realistic scenarios with discussion on solutions that provide good food for thought.

Like first aid, even if you think you know all this stuff, it's important to refresh your knowledge. This is the definitive text on self rescue that can literally save you when the s**t hits the fan. Get it. Read it!

3 of 3 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars Indispensible, July 13, 2009

By 

Sara A. Konopka (IA, USA) - See all my reviews
(REAL NAME)   

This review is from: Climbing Self Rescue: Improvising Solutions for Serious Situations (Mountaineers Outdoor Expert) (Paperback)

I've been climbing sport for about a year and a half, some multi-pitch. Just started leading trad this season, thought it was time to learn how to manage accidents/crises. This book has been just right for me. I have Freedom of the Hills, but this covers self-rescue in more depth ("self" means your party, as opposed to calling for search and rescue). It touches just briefly on ice climbing/big wall, covering topics that are applicable to most types of climbing. Table of contents: The Basics, Rescue Knots, Escaping a Belay, Descending, Ascending, Raising, Passing Knots, Scenarios and Solutions, Getting Outside Help (33 pages of 29 scenarios/solutions). The authors do a nice job of directing you to other resources outside the scope of the book. Concise, well organized chapters that build on each other logically. Set up to read straight through but also easy to reference specific topics/knots. Easy to follow diagrams/instructions. Nice mix of photos/illustrations.