For 14 years, Irene has worked as a Portland freelance journalist, public-relations consultant and graphic artist, Her food and lifestyle stories have appeared in The Oregonian, Country Woman and other national publications.
A tradition of baking has been shared in her mother's family for generations, starting with her great-grandfather, Franco Conti, who established bakeries throughout Sicily in the late 19th century.
One battle among cobbler lovers rages over crust. Should crusts be made of biscuit, pastry, crumbled cookie dough or cake batter? Should they line the bottoms or tops of fruit; or be latticed or shaped like cobblestones?
There's even more confusion over shape. Should cobblers be rectangular or round?And how do you define cobbler when there are so many variations?instead of coming up with a clear-cut definition of a cobbler, I would like to challenge cooks to make up a few of their own.
Let's start by expanding the notion of cobblers to include savory brunch and dinner options. Thus, a variety of ingredients may be introduced into a basic biscuit recipe-like nuts, coconut and cream cheese for dessert crusts; or herbs, cheeses, sour cream, chopped onions, poppy seeds and rye flour for brunch or dinner crusts.
Though we're breathing new life into cobblers, we can't ignore a cobbler's humble beginnings as a Colonial American breakfast dish. So, in step with the early settlers' virtues of practical home economics, many of the recipes are quick and easy to prepare with fresh ingredients.
How Cobblers Were Named
Some food experts claim a shoe-cobbler's wife created the dish, while others suggest a cobbler may once have been a tall, iced drink of wine, rum or whiskey and sugar. To date, the most plausible answer is that cobblers were named after cobblestones. Picture a fruit, meat or vegetable filling covered with mounds of crust. Doesn't it bring to mind a cobblestone alley straight out of a medieval fairy tale?
Cobbler Crusts
As for cobbler dough, there are two schools of thought. Many chefs consider pastry or pie crust-made without baking powder-to be true cobbler crust. Though, there's nothing wrong with good pastry dough, The Cobbler Crusade adheres to the more traditional practice of beginning with a basic biscuit crust. Then a host of other ingredients can be added to complement or vary textures.
For example, eggs tend to turn dough a bit like batter, yielding a cake-like consistency to the biscuit. Baking with brown sugar strongly signals the aroma and flavor of molasses. Granulated sugar, cornmeal and chopped pecans create crunchy textures. Combining white and whole-wheat flours or rolled oats and raisins renders a substantial, hearty crust; while heavy creams, sour cream and buttermilk are best for buttery, shortcake biscuits.
Copyright © 2000 Fisher Books. All rights reserved.
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Most Helpful Customer Reviews
17 of 17 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars
A "must have" for your cook book collection!,
By A Customer
This review is from: The Cobbler Crusade: Bringing An Old-fashioned Dish To Modern Cooks (Paperback)
Recipies easy to follow, all that I've tried have been fantastic. I like the fact each cobbler has a custom cobbler topping. My friends keep borrowing my copy, so I ordered 6 copies today, 2 copies of which will be gifts.
5.0 out of 5 stars
Cobbler Crusade Cook Bood,
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This review is from: The Cobbler Crusade: Bringing An Old-fashioned Dish To Modern Cooks (Paperback)
It is about fruit cobblers and so much more...some terrific savory cobblers as well. All recipes are fail proof and easy to prepare.
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