In Cooking for Comfort
, New York Times
food-columnist and cookbook writer, Marion Burros, brings her sure taste and rock-solid technique to revisit simple dishes like linguine with red clam sauce, fried chicken, and quiche Lorraine. Burros knows when a good thing isn't quite good enough, tweaking some recipes (her shortbread features blueberries and lemon curd); upgrading ingredients (a Cobb salad made with arugula); or simply doing a major overall (introducing wine to her cream of tomato soup). As someone concerned about health matters, she's also "streamlined" a number of recipes, like coleslaw and potato salad, which can be made with light mayonnaise without compromise. (She also knows when to leave well enough alone, as with her classic coconut cake recipe.) The 100-plus recipes--all approachable--range from breakfast and brunch dishes to desserts, and includes an extended selection on cookies, cobblers, cakes, puddings, and delicious refrigerator sweets like Apricot Mousse and Terrine of Summer Fruit. With chatty recipe introductions and short-take formulas for the likes of Toasted Cheese Sandwiches and Make Ahead Risotto, the book is a welcome addition to the everything-old-is-new-again canon. --Arthur Boehm
From Publishers Weekly
We live in "a time of enormous uncertainty," writes Burros (The New Elegant But Easy Cookbook; Eating Well Is the Best Revenge) in the introduction to her latest cookbook, but "dinner can help us forget about that." After September 11, Burros says, people reevaluated the pleasures of homey comforts, and they longed for old-time favorite foods like Sloppy Joes, Chicken Cacciatore, Twice-Baked Potatoes and Lemon Meringue Pie. The veteran chef and New York Times columnist polled family, friends and foodies to offer recipes for cozy carb-filled foods to remind us of simpler days. Even finicky cooks will delight in dishes long on the Grandma-factor with a dash of nouvelle cuisine for good measure-chives instead of onions in the Matzo Balls; portobellos or shiitake in Mushroom Barley Soup, phyllo crust for the Chicken Pot Pie. The slim volume is packed with stick-to-your-ribs dishes, and while Burros does take care to include ways to lighten some of the recipes ("streamlined versions," she calls them) this is not a book for dieters. It's too bad the book has no pictures, but blithe prose detailing each recipe largely makes up for the lack. (In addition to dishes for which she provides actual recipes, she also gives directions sans ingredients lists-for Toasted Cheese Sandwiches, Cheese Omelet, the Perfect BLT, etc.) A giddy collection of appetizers, entrees and desserts, this book includes dishes destined to cheer up chefs or armchair culinary enthusiasts, no matter how world-weary. Wine suggestions and a sources list round out the offerings.
Copyright 2003 Reed Business Information, Inc.