Customer Reviews

Cooking the Roman Way

5 star:		(17)
4 star:		(1)
3 star:		(0)
2 star:		(0)
1 star:		(0)

 

 

Two books on Roman cooking have appeared within the last eighteen (18) months, which gives us a golden opportunity to proof one against the other to find the better book. The first published last year, the current subject, is `Cooking the Roman Way' by David Downie. The second is the more recently published book `In a Roman Kitchen: Timeless Recipes from the Eternal City' by Jo Bettoja.

In general, Downie's book appears to be based more on restaurante, trattoria, and osteria recipes while Bettoja seems to rely more on home cooking recipes. Still, there is a significant overlap of recipe names. I had no trouble at all finding five recipes with the same traditional Italian name, although the English translation of the name may have been a little different. I give high marks to both authors for giving the Italian names of all dishes in both the text and the index.

I compared the recipes for five dishes:

Gnocchi di Semolino alla Romana
Spaghetti alla Carbonara
Cipolline in Agrodolce alla Romana
Carciofi alla Giudia
Frittata con Zucchini

Although no pair of recipes was the same, I can find virtually nothing in these five recipes which would suggest that one author was presenting consistently superior recipes. I was slightly annoyed with Downie for specifying white coctail onions in the Cipolline recipe, especially since I have no trouble finding cipolline in my local Pennsylvania megamart. My conclusion that Downie relies on the Trattoria and Bettoja relies on the home is in the sources they cite for their recipes. Both appear to give equal time to the influence of the Jewish quarter on Roman cooking.

In Bettoja's case, the focus seems to be on a large number of recipes for each major type of Roman dish. She has, for example, more pasta, artichoke, and fava bean recipes than Downie, and also more dessert recipes. This is ironic since Downie controverts one of my hero Mario Batali's claims that Italians do not go in for sweets.

In contrast, Downie includes many seminally Roman recipes which Bettoja simply ignores. He has excellent recipes for making both Pizza Bianco, a certifiable Roman speciality, and fresh fettucini, including sound recommendations on making the fettucini completely by hand and with the assistance of power mixers and power pasta rolling machines. Most surprising of all is that Downie includes the recipe for Gnocchi di Patate while Bettoja does not. My understanding from Mario is that this is a Roman speciality and every trattoria in Rome serves it on Thursday. Alternately, Claudia Roden identifies it as a northern (Friuli) Italian speciality. Since Downie specifically cites potato gnocchi as the Roman canonical dish for Thursday and thereby agrees with Mario, I have to assume that while the dish may be promenant outside Rome, it is certainly a distinctively Roman dish as well.

Bettoja is a teacher who runs her own culinary school in Rome while Downie is a culinary journalist, so it surprises me that it is Downie who has the superior sidebars on some basic techniques such as how to clean an artichoke (sidebars with step by step photographs) and how to roast and skin sweet peppers.

Even though Bettoja's book is later and even though the books have identical list prices and almost identical page counts, Downie's book is much richer in the quality and quantity of it's photographs, almost all with useful captions. I generally do not count good photography to a cookbook's credit, but in the case of a book dedicated to so photogenic a location as Rome, I must make an exception here. For the identical price, Downie and his photographer and editors have simply done a much better job. Downie's book is also richer in sidebars on general Roman and Italian culinary matters. The sidebar on the sources of Pecorino Romano, which is made in greater quanities in Sardinia than it is in Lazio, was a great surprise. His headnotes for individual dishes are also richer in explaining the history of many dishes such as Fettucini Alfredo and Fettucini alla Papalina.

In the battle of the blurbs, Downie has Mario and Carol Field while Bettoja has Lidia Bastianich and Frances Mayes on her back cover. I think that's a tie.

I would buy both of these books, even with the rather substantial overlap in named dishes. The overlap is actually a plus for amateur foodie scholars, as it gives one the sense of exactly how different two sources can be with exactly the same dish. Bettoja is a great source for pasta recipes and Roman desserts, while Downie has much greater success at evoking the Roman ambiance and in covering deeper techniques. Downie also wins the points on domestic sources for flour and other Italian specialities. Bettoja rather quixotically gives us the telephone numbers of companies in Rome. Not very useful unless you plan to visit Rome in the near future.

Both books are recommended. If you need to choose one, I would pick Downie's book.

A book on the cooking of Rome was long overdue. Hooray for David Downie and his meticulous research into the myriad secrets of Rome's great culinary traditions! I was enchanted to find a recipe for Vignarola, that incomparable Roman spring vegetable stew, and to discover delicious new pasta dishes such as a mouth-watering concoction of spaghetti with fresh favas, lettuce hearts and pancetta. Not to mention the sublime sweet peppers stuffed with mozzarella and anchovies and the delectable fried artichokes - Roman-style. David Downie vividly brings alive the day-to-day, season-to-season, rich kaleidoscope of the eternal city's trattorias, open-air markets, butchers, bakers and grocers galore.This beautiful book is richly illustrated by Alison Harris's marvellous photographs which admirably capture the essence of Rome and the Romans. Bravo Downie and Harris for an indispensable addition to any food lover or serious cook's library. Cooking the Roman Way certainly tops my Christmas gift list!

A friend sent me a review of Cooking the Roman Way. The reviewer made it sound too good to be true, so I ordered a copy to find out. Even for a passionate but untrained foodie like me, I've got to say that this is a great piece of work -- it's funny and articulate -- a literate cookbook that reads like a cross between fine travel writing and memoir. I have also found a bunch of classic Roman recipes that anyone can do -- bruschetta, spaghetti with garlic and hot pepper, Carbonara, Amatriciana, crostini with anchovies (my girlfriend loved that one in particular). I have been to Rome a couple of times and everything in the book rang true -- the atmosphere, the cooking style, the sites, the sensuality. Now I'm recommending the book to everyone I know, both for their own use and as gifts. What a find. Kudos (or however you say it in Italian) to the the author and photographer!

The recipes are great. I especially loved the carbonara and the spicy Amatriciana tomato sauce. Finally I have a cookbook with my favorite recipes! I own many Italian cookbooks but I wasn't aware that some of the classics I love are from Rome. A friend gave this book to me as a gift. It's a beautiful book with lavish color photos. I like it so much I'm going to give it to everyone on my Christmas list.

I just bought this book, and I am so glad I found it. It explains delicious,simple and healthy Italian recipies and is also a fun read. The author goes beyond demistifying Roman cuisine. Every section is easily accessible with interesting stories and beautiful pictures of places I'd like to go. This book is very well organized. It includes clear steps and pictures for making basic components such as fresh artichoke hearts. There are also more complex recipies for more seasoned cooks. I am glad to have this one in my kitchen and know many friends who love Italian food who will be glad to get it too.

I could eat any of the pasta dishes everyday and then there is a great selection of vegetable and meat dishes. Fabulous. Buying this book has given me a ticket to Rome. I'm recommending it here and to all my friends.

I bought this book before a planned trip to Rome for the stories of restaurants and food stalls and eating in Rome. Then I realized how wonderful the recipes are. This book was an indispensable addition for our trip to Rome - I took along a list of restaurants and dishes to try, which I would never have known about without this book. And one of my best purchases in Rome was an abundance of dried spices from the Campo de Fiori spice man, one of many colorful locals featured in "Cooking the Roman Way"! Back at home, it is a favorite choice for finding great recipes and I have given several copies as gifts to serious cooks and Italophiles alike.

Bravo to Downie and Harris for a mouth-watering book that is not only great for cooking (try the spaghetti alla gricia on a night you don't have time to cook), reading for pleasure, knowledge and travel advice, and giving as a gift (vegetarians would love it for the many meatless pasta and side dishes).

I love to cook, read and travel. This book satisfies all three. I can't recommend it highly enough to anyone who wants to learn more about Roman Cookery.

This wonderfully evocative book about Roman food is more than a cookbook, it is a guide for how to cook the Roman way, eat the Roman way and live the Roman way. This book is a great one for those who wish to take the fine art of armchair travel one sensual step further. How about a plate of Spaghetti alla Carbonara (the ultimate comfort food) to eat from that armchair as you thumb through these receipes, histories, first-hand stories and gloriously picturesque photographs. Those photographs alone make the book worthwhile, but I look forward to trying out all of the receipes which thus far have been simple, easy to follow, and successful. A wonderful book all the way around -- one-stop-shopping for Christmas gifts!