|Brand Name||Cooler Master|
|Item model number||R4-LUS-07AR-GP|
|Item Weight||9.4 ounces|
|Product Dimensions||7.9 x 1.2 x 7.9 inches|
|Item Dimensions L x W x H||7.87 x 1.18 x 7.87 inches|
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Cooler Master MegaFlow 200 - Sleeve Bearing 200mm Red LED Silent Fan for Computer Cases
|Price:||$16.54 & FREE Shipping|
|You Save:||$3.45 (17%)|
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- High air flow for maximum cooling performance; Quiet operation with low RPM
- RoHS compliance for protecting the environment; Compatible with Cosmos S, ATCS 840, HAF 932, HAF 922 and Storm Sniper(No LED On/Off function support)
- Adds extra cooling for graphics cards when installed on side panels; Rated Fan Speed: 700 rpm; Air Flow: 110 CFM;
- Current (Ampere): 0.16 A (Max 0.28 A); Power Consumption: 3.36 W; Bearing: Sleeve Bearing;
- Connector: 3pin; 3 to 4 pin Adapter: 1 pcs; Screws: 4 pcs; MTTF: 30,000 hours
- Air pressure (mmH2O): 0.595 mm H2O; Rated Voltage: 12 VDC
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Top Customer Reviews
This fan is perfect when used as a well tuned PWM fan. I use SpeedFan to customize my settings. I set the target CPU temp to 54 degrees C, and I allow it increments of 3 PWM (the default is 10, which causes noticeable noise changes). This creates an almost silent PC while idle (like surfing, word processing, etc). After a game has been running for 4 or 5 minutes, the fans get to about 1300rpm and the CPU holds at 54. At this speed, the fan is only audible if I mute the gaming noises, but even then, its not annoying. At minimum speed, in a completely silent room in a rural house, I have to strain to hear them at their lowest speed (700rpm).
I actually have three of these chained together using a rosewill pwm splitter. One is on the CPU heatsink, the other two are case fans. They all spin up when the system gets warm. They never seem to go beyond 50% even when gaming with a hot Radeon 4890.
For the price, this is the best value PWM 120MM fan I could find. The Scythe PWM 120mm seems like it might be able to push more air for a given db of noise, but you can get three of these fans for the price of two of those.
connection to a 4-pin connector on the motherboards. It has good airflow, and fits anywhere a standard 3-pin
fan does in a computer case. It can also be used as a replacement fan on a cooler assembly, which many CPU's
require these days on motherboards using the 4 pin connector and PWM to control the fan assembly. Many of them
have 3 pin fan connectors for all other case fans.
Pulse width modulation is a way of controlling the fan speed using an amplifier on the motherboard, that will
vary the width of the signal (timing) or height (voltage) to increase or decrease the fan speed based on the
sensed CPU core temperature. A 3-pin fan by contrast, only receives a return signal on the 3rd wire telling
the CPU's fan operational amplifier it is spinning. Without the return voltage signal the computer will shut
down, signifying the fan has failed and turning off to protect your PC's processor from overheating. This is
also done for any other fan that has this type of support on the motherboard. That's why it's important that
you connect your fans to the motherboard connectors, instead of the power supply's.
These fans were used on an Intel DH55HC motherboard in an Antec 300 case. The Intel mobo has only PWM fans.
They were the 120mm and 80mm PWM Cooler Master fans.
1. Mounting bolts appropriate for attaching the fan to the case are not provided. Instead, 4 large screws (instead of bolts) are provided. They are too large for the holes on the fan's body. They are also much to large---and the wrong thread--- for the mounting holes on the metal case. They are the type of screws suitable for attaching something to a plastic mount point.
I had to remove a bolt from the fan that came with the HAF X case. Then, take that bolt to a hardware store to find one that has the same thread and length. I ended up having to purchase a pack of 6-32x3/8 bolts. These worked fine.
2. Due to the placement of the wires that attach to the inside of the HAF X's front panel (in front of the 2nd top fan), it's very difficult to get the top cover to close after installing the fan. This is, in my opinion, either a case design flaw or a failure to provide appropriate installation documentation.
BTW. I compared the model number of this fan to the fan that comes with the case. They are identical: A20030-07CB-3MF-C1. So it *is* the correct fan.
Making the LED on/off switch on the HAF 922 is EXTREMELY easy to do, and anyone with the most absolute basic level of experience using an exatco knife or scissors, a pair of wire strippers, and wrapping electrical tape can do it. For starters, you have two ways of doing this - with, or without, a "bridge connector". Almost any store carrying basic electronics connectors (ie. the male & female connectors found on the fan(s) & connector connected to the on/off LED switch), such as Fry's Electronics, Radio Shack, Micro Center, and any untold number of other stores, should carry the same 2-pin male & female connectors found on the Cooler Master 200mm fan. Say you want to have three such fans in your system...front, top, and side panel. All you have to do is create a bridge with one connector matching up to the 2-pin connector on the on/off switch, with the other end splitting into a 3-way connector, with all the connectors at the other end matching up to the 2-pin connectors on the fans. of course, to make this work properly, once the lead from the on/off switch connector end splits into their three respective connections, they will need to be of different lengths, so as to meet their respective fans. Alternately, you can create the same 1-into-3 configuration, from on/off switch, to fans, without the bridge, but the bridge is highly recommended, as i am doing with my HAF 922. The reason for this is, should any single fan fail, replacing the fan is as simple as disconnecting the 2-pin LED connector, as well as the molex power connector, swapping fans, and reconnecting the molex & 2-pin connectors. Now, is that so difficult? As I said, all it takes is two simple tools, and some electrical tape.Read more ›
Most Recent Customer Reviews
Bought these because they were cheap. I didn't care about the LEDS, and noise levels). At least they were Coolermaster branded case fans. Works fine for my needs! Read morePublished 11 hours ago by MD
Great fan. The colors are really bright and pushes a lot of air. Nothing else much to say about it.Published 6 days ago by Woobies
Out of all the 200mm fans I have used this one is the most quiet. It may not move as much wind as the others I have tried before, but noise level is my primary attribute when... Read morePublished 6 days ago by W. Chow
well i was an idiot, didn't know about the slimline factor difference between the current fans and this one. good fan though.Published 6 days ago by Daniel
I bought these fans for my new computer that I just built. These aren't as bright as the Rosewill ones that came with my case, but they are way quieter. Read morePublished 7 days ago by Jason L.