Customer Reviews

Corona Clipper RS 7120 13-Inch Razor Tooth Curved Pruning Saw with Cushion Grip Handle

5 star:		(23)
4 star:		(3)
3 star:		(1)
2 star:		(0)
1 star:		(0)

 

 

I have a few of these and I really put them to the test.

I also have other, larger pruning saws, but these small saws are very handy.

When properly cared for (oiled to prevent rust, sap/pitch removed) they last for a long time.

I can cut through a 6" Oak branch with one of these in minutes. Keep it sharp, develop the arm/shoulder strength and coordination, and you will be surprised-perhaps amazed-at what you can do with this implement.

My experiences and perspectives seem to be rather different than the previous poster. I disagree in regards to the blade shape, thickness, and coarseness.

SHAPE
The curved blade is, in my opinion, a good design. I also have saws from Fanno (another maker of quality pruning eqpt.) and they are all curved. In fact, all my common pruning saws, from 13-24" have curved blades.

I have a large timber saw (think 3'long 1man version of the traditional 6' two man "misery whip") and a folding saw with straight blades, but these are the minority. The short, straight saw is very useful when pruning the unwanted branch or trunk from a "Y" or double trunk, but that is about all I use it for. The timber saw is used much like a bucksaw and the straight blade is fine for that purpose.

The curved blade serves two purposes. 1 It helps you maintain a straight line around the branch. I am sometimes in an awkward position, straining, and/or exerting strenuously when pruning. The curved blade wraps, to some extent, around the blade and helps maintain a straight cutting line.

A straight cut isn't terribly important when making the initial cuts on a large branch (1st cut removes weight from branch), but is very important for the final cut. The final pruning cut should be straight and consistent-just outside the branch collar.

2. It grabs the branch on the pull stroke and helps cut more effectively. With a straight blade, the saw would, to an extent, ride on the branch. With the curvature, the blade digs in.

My long pole saw also has a curved blade. I rely on the curved blade particularly with a pole saw-it greatly increases the effectiveness. The curved tip also helps me grab onto a branch to dislodge it if it falls into a crotch or other difficult location. I can't envision doing all my pruning with straight blades.

THICKNESS
I don't find the blade to be too thick. A pruning saw is subjected to much rougher treatment than a woodworking saw. While a thinner blade would cut faster, it would also be prone to damage. I keep my saws very sharp and they cut well. I don't recall ever thinking; "Hmmm, if this blade were thinner I would be through this branch already..." More like; "I enjoy using this saw, it is an extension of my body and has never failed me..."

COARSENESS (# teeth per inch)
The number of teeth per inch are also suitable. Yes, a crosscut saw for woodworking would have fewer teeth per inch. Woodworking pieces need finer edges for appearance, joinery, etc. That isn't a concern with pruning. As long as one doesn't tear out a large piece of bark, all is well. I also think that the wet, pulpy nature of living wood would clog a finer pattern.

It feels very good to cut branches with hand tools-chainsaws are noisy, foul-smelling beasts.

I also use this saw for rough cutting of 2x4 and 2x6 lumber.

As far as I'm concerned this saw is great. It's sharp, it cuts well, I think the curve of the blade actually helps with cutting 2-4 inch hardwood trees. Maybe as a previous reviewer mentioned it is too thick but it works well for me. I can cut through a 3 inch cherry branch (I've done this numerous times now) while basically hanging in the tree and I'm done in less than 30 seconds. No I'm not exaggerating. Try doing that with your typical handsaw.

I purchased this saw and a Fiskars 93626935 PowerTooth Folding Saw at the same time. While this is a larger saw, I still end up using the Fiskars more often. They are more portable (and safer because the blade folds away) and do as good of a job on anything less than 2-3." For anything larger than 3" a bow saw (poperly tensioned) can beat the nonsense out of a clipper in handcutting. But I will saw that a bowsaw is akward up IN a tree, and that therefore there is a nice place for clippers in tight pruning spots. Still given a choice, the Fiskars beat this any day.

The Corona Clipper is one of the best quick hand saws for keeping your yard's trees in shape. I've tried other brands, but the Corona seems to works with much less effort and doesn't stick as some saws do. I've removed limbs as large as 6"-8" diameter in very short time with this saw. No need for a chain saw noise and bulk for most pruning needs and it's much safer when working form a ladder or precarious positions. highly recommended. I wish it came with a sheath, but I just duct taped over the cardboard packing to create one.

I own two of the Corona Razor Tooth saw and I must say they are the BEST pruning/trimming saw I've ever used (!) The name "Razor Tooth" is NO exaggeration!

This thing is sharp, sharp, sharp - and the "pull" cutting action makes it very fast and easy to use. It makes neat, precise pruning cuts (read up on your technique for pruning properly folks!) and is unbeatable for "limbing" small trees that you're cutting down.

As I said, this thing is sharp and with ONE well-placed pull stroke will cut off a soft or medium-hard wood branch up to about 3/8" in diameter. Two or three strokes will cut through anything up to about 3/4".

With minimal care (a little WD-40 every so often to prevent rust) and this saw should last you a good long time. It really does stay sharp and it's one of the few tools I've bought that I can rave about.

I disagree that a bow saw will outperform this saw on 3" or larger cuts - perhaps more like 5 or 6" but maybe my bow saw just isn't as good as this saw.

I would suggest you find/buy/make a scabbard for this saw because it IS very sharp.

I'm writing this now with a bandaged finger. (Did I mention this saw is SHARP!) Unfortunately, the saw can't tell the difference between trees and fingers (or pants, legs, etc) and because it does cut SO fast, when it slices through a branch and into a badly-placed hand, it will be an unpleasant surprise. However, that's my fault, not the saws.

VERY pleased with this saw. Worth the money. A "professional" tool in every sense of the word.

I am a 58yr old female (great shape:)) I have no problems clearing 4-5in diameter trees with this tool.
I absolutely love it!!! You won't be disappointed if you purchase this.

This is the second one of these saws I have purchased. The first one an iron bar fell on it and broke the handle. The blade is extremely sharp and is replaceable. It cuts on the forward stroke but even more on the backward stroke as there are 3 teeth at different angles. When you don't have a huge tree and don't want to bring the chain saw out this is the one to use. Highly recommended

This is the greatest pruning saw I have ever used. I use it to trim my fruit trees in the winter. It provides smooth perfect cuts at an incredable speed, with great control. I use my old Corona razor tooth saw to cut roots and stump small trees and brush,and although it is continuesly in contact with dirt it has remained sharp as a "RAZOR".

This saw cuts only on the pull action, which I like. It takes a lot less effort than what I was expecting. It doesn't cut small limbs well, but that's what they made loppers for. Seems like it will last quite awhile.

I've used the saw a lot for the past two years. I use a slit length of garden hose as a blade cover, held on with a rubber band. The blade shows no signs of dulling, but I just bought two replacements from the maker's website for $10.07 each.

I use it mostly for volunteer work on the Appalachian Trail and elsewhere. It's great for removing large branches and small trees. It's good up to eight inches diameter. It barely fits in my day-hike pack. With the handle removed it fits in my lumbar pack.