Couture, the Great Designers [Hardcover]

Caroline Rennolds Milbank (Author)

Book Description

Publication Date: September 1, 1997

Couture is a world of glamour, of history, of tradition, of signatures. This world and these signatures -- not simply labels in a dress, but complete, recognizable looks -- are the subject of a book of unmatched elegance: Couture: The Great Designers. Couture opens in the 1840s with Charles Frederick Worth, the first of the grands couturiers. Soon we are introduced to Chanel and Schiaperelli, the stars of the 1930s, and to Balenciaga, Dior, Vionnet, Lanvin, Poiret, Valentino, Armani. The book also turns to Yves Saint Laurent, whose first collection was cheered in the streets of Paris, to Norman Hartnell, whose wedding dress for the bride of the Marquess of Bath was called the "eigth wonder of the world," to the masterful designs of Claire McCardell and the vibrant ones of Issey Miyake. This splendid books gives accounts of the sublime -- including Fortuny -- and the little-known -- such as Augustabernard, whose work survives in museums, attics, and trunks. Each designer fits into a historical niche, and we learn of his or her palette, silhouette, contribution, signature. Never before has the world of couture been covered on such a grand scale. The illustrations come from the designers' own sketchpads, from period illustrations in fashion magazines, from contemporary drawings of garments in private collections, and from house photographs, manyof which are being reproduced for the first time in these pages. Prominent are famous images by famous photographers -- including Horst, Abbe, Cecel Beaton, Norman Parkinson -- and many details and accessories have been photographed specially for this book. A banquet for the senses, Couture is by far the loveliest volum on the subject.

Editorial Reviews

From Publishers Weekly

Drawing on noted design houses and fashion designers for choice illustrations, Milbank, former head of Sotheby's costume department, weaves together a handsome collection of 175 color and 225 duotone picturesartists' sketches, house photographs, period magazine illustrations, documents. Her 61 insightful if often flattering cameos of famous couturiers' lives and careers form an engaging social history of changing styles. We learn that Charles Frederick Worth not only pioneered the bustle silhouette, he also created a system of pattern parts allowing for near-perfect fit with fewer fittings. We're reminded that Pierre Cardin in the 1960s was an innovator whose clothes made references to space travel and Op Art, and that Elsa Schiaparelli got her start by filling a rented Parisian studio with Armenian knitters. Contemporary fashions discussed include Armani's impeccable blazers as long as skirts, Pauline Trigere's slim, free-falling look, Kenzo's whimsical folk creations, Perry Ellis's blend of traditional and offbeat. All the big names are here: Dior, Chanel, Givenchy, Patou, Fortuny, Rouff, Blass, etc. Literary Guild bonus selection. November
Copyright 1985 Reed Business Information, Inc.

From Library Journal

Couture, which means, quite simply, dressmaking, is now considered an art form. Charles Frederick Worth, whose career began in the mid-19th century, is credited with elevating what was regarded as a mere trade to its present status; he created designs rather than follow the dictates of his clients. After the first chapter, "The Founders," Milbank groups the designers, somewhat arbitrarily, by type: Artists, Purists, Entertainers, Extravagants, Architects, Realists. Fortuny is among "The Artists"; Dior is one of "The Extravagants." The author gives a brief account, lavishly illustrated, of each couturier's work. A delightful book, this will appeal to anyone who appreciates exquisite clothes. Eleanor Riley, Getty Conservation Inst. Lib., Marina del Rey, Cal.
Copyright 1986 Reed Business Information, Inc.

See all Editorial Reviews

Product Details

• Hardcover: 430 pages
• Publisher: Stewart Tabori & Chang; First Edition edition (September 1, 1997)
• Language: English
• ISBN-10: 0941434516
• ISBN-13: 978-0941434515
• Product Dimensions: 11.7 x 9.9 x 1.5 inches
• Shipping Weight: 6 pounds
• Average Customer Review: 5.0 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (5 customer reviews)
• Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #1,025,086 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

More About the Author

Discover books, learn about writers, read author blogs, and more.

Customer Reviews

Most Helpful Customer Reviews

17 of 17 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars Absolutely Fabulous Photgraphs!!, August 23, 1998

By 

[e-mail] (Tallahassee,FL) - See all my reviews

This review is from: Couture, the Great Designers (Hardcover)

I was lucky enough to find a 1985 ed. of this beautiful book for $10 at a book clearance store. It is my favorite fashion reference book and I would find it a deal at $65. It is divided into 7 different catagories (ie. The Founders, The Purists, The Entertainers etc.) and covers 61 designers from Worth to Armani. It is full of wonderful B&W and color photographs of models and movie stars wearing designer masterpieces.I would like to see the updated version- does it cover other designers like Mizrahi,Sander,Versace etc. That would be a welcome addition. I will enjoy my book regardless... Have fun reading the bios and looking at the beautiful clothes!!

7 of 7 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars I liked this!, December 8, 2005

By 

Memily Giraffe (Ithaca, NY, USA) - See all my reviews

This review is from: Couture, the Great Designers (Hardcover)

I found this in the library. Totally great. It has the most beautiful fashion photography. I stood there for about half an hour just flipping through. It was written in 1985 so the 'modern' part has a bit of a retro feel, but that definitely works in the context. Some very gorgeous pictures from the thirties, fifties, etc.

I will try to get my hands on this definitely! A coffee table book that I would definitely read (over&over) :)

7 of 7 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars Excellent, July 15, 2000

By 

Perqs (Dallas, Texas) - See all my reviews

This review is from: Couture, the Great Designers (Hardcover)

Well-written review of the 20th century's great designers, discussing the evolution of style. Very similar to Fashion: The Century of the Designer by Konemann Inc., which is very much a chronological approach, rather than philosophical. Both books use many of the same photos and drawings.