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Crack Climbing! (How To Climb Series) Paperback – November 5, 2008

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Crack Climbing! (How To Climb Series) + Climbing Anchors (How To Climb Series) + Trad Climber's Bible (How To Climb Series)
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Editorial Reviews

From the Back Cover

Addictive but usually legal, crack climbing has become hugely popular in recent years. As a result, specific techniques and strategies have been developed by climbers to help tackle everything from low-angle slab cracks to soaring splitters. Through a blend of text, color photos, and illustrations, Crack Climbing! clearly demonstrates and explains what it takes to climb cracks successfully.
FROM THE INTRODUCTION
“It may be the fun and fluid motion of crack climbing, the sustained athleticism required, the ‘head’ for placing gear, or even the amazing like-minded individuals we meet at the crags that attract us to this sport. But more than all that, we like clipping the anchor on a wonderfully strenuous crack and experiencing the worn-out yet satisfied feeling of arriving home at the end of a long, happy journey.”
Starting with an overview of the unique crack types found at the world’s most famous climbing areas, the authors move on to cover such topics as:

• Jamming techniques (finger, hand, fist, foot, body)
• Strategies for specific crack types such as chimneys, liebacks, underclings, and roof cracks
• How to safely lead cracks and place protection
• Techniques for efficient movement and strength recovery while climbing
• Obtaining the psychological edge to be a successful crack climber

About the Author

About Lisa
Rock climbing has been Lisa Gnade's primary focus for more than 20 years. Climbing is more than an activity or a sport; it's her way of life. She began climbing during her years as a student at Flagstaff's Northern Arizona University, in order to fulfill a required credit in physical education. That was an unplanned, but gratifying turning point in life, the pursuit of 9 - 5 having gone astray. Years of climbing and living the dream have been their own reward. Her favorite climbing areas include Indian Creek, Frankenjura, Kalymnos, Arkansas Sandstone, Paradise Forks, Arco and Mallorca to name a few. Extensive climbing related trips throughout Europe and the western US, and the effort to complete many climbing goals, have helped bring to life Lisa's "seize the day" attitude. Now, seizing the opportunity to work as importer and distributor, doing sales management duties, and covering territory as a sales representative for DMM and Wild Country climbing equipment and Red Chili climbing shoes, she finds herself with even greater appreciation for time on the rock. Her companion in both work and leisure is husband and fellow climbing enthusiast, Steve Petro. When not climbing or working, Lisa can be found resort skiing in the Wasatch, reading foreign language and history textbooks for entertainment, or spending time with her five furry children, the cats.

Climbing Background

  • First woman in the world to consistently climb 5.13 cracks (both First Free Ascents and repeats of many established lines)
  • Has Climbed equally difficult routes on both Sport and Crack routes 5.13c, dozens of 5.13's
  • Has been climbing for more than 20 years
  • Hardest FFA by a woman in Germany's Frankenjura in 1998
  • Has been a guide for a major service and enjoys teaching
  • Has enjoyed climbing in at least a dozen countries
  • Continues to climb locally, nationally and in fabulous locations worldwide

About Steve
Rock climbing has been Steve Petro's main athletic interest for the last 30 years. He is renowned for his many first ascents in Utah's Canyonlands and various locations in Wyoming. Steve has climbed extensively, throughout the United States and Europe. His favorite climbing areas include Indian Creek, American Fork, Frankenjura, Kalymnos, Arkansas Sandstone, Spanish limestone and of course his old stomping ground, Fremont Canyon. His linebacker¿s physique and powerful climbing style continue to draw stares from onlookers, even at age 54! Steve supports his climbing lifestyle by working as CEO for Excalibur, importer of DMM and Wild Country climbing hardware and Red Chili shoes. When not climbing or working, Steve enjoys snowboarding, traveling and reading books about current affairs, history and myths.
Climbing Background

  • First Free Ascent of the 1800' route, Wind and Sand and Stars 5.12c in Zion National Park with Jeff Lowe and Lisa Gnade
  • First Free Ascent of the 1000' route, Shimmering Abstraction 5.11 in the Bighorn Mountains
  • First person to free climb the most difficult route, 5.12, in the Tetons, on Mt Moran
  • First Free Ascent of Fiddler on the Roof, 1987, Wyoming¿s premier roof crack
  • More than 100 First Free Ascents (FFA's)
  • Has climbed equally difficult (up to 5.13d) routes on both Sport and Traditional routes
  • Nearly one hundred 5.13¿s on his tick list, trad and sport
  • Has climbed vertical frozen waterfalls in the late 70's and early 80's
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Product Details

  • Series: How To Climb Series
  • Paperback: 160 pages
  • Publisher: Falcon Guides; 1st edition (November 5, 2008)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 0762745916
  • ISBN-13: 978-0762745913
  • Product Dimensions: 0.5 x 7.5 x 9.2 inches
  • Shipping Weight: 14.4 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)
  • Average Customer Review: 3.0 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (5 customer reviews)
  • Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #1,515,449 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

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Customer Reviews

Most Helpful Customer Reviews

3 of 3 people found the following review helpful By Stanley D. Hall on May 28, 2010
Format: Paperback Verified Purchase
There are many descriptive photographs in this book of how to stick every part of your arms, legs, and torso into a crack. Having never climbed crack or used trad before moving to Joshua Tree area I was quite the newbie. I have appreciated this book and recommend it to anyone wanting to learn to climb crack. T
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3 of 4 people found the following review helpful By Mtnwmn on May 28, 2009
Format: Paperback
Many climbers start out in the gym or at local crags with limited crack climbing opportunities. The skills they acquire there don't translate well to the great crack areas of the world. This well-written book can greatly shorten the learning curve and save a lot of pain and hardship.

The previous reviewer appears to be on a personal vendetta against various authors--ignore his nonsense. This may not be the ultimate book on crack technique but it is much better than any of the how-to's that try to shove it all into one chapter. I docked it one star for a few minor nits but overall this is an excellent book that even advanced climbers can learn from.
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5 of 8 people found the following review helpful By Amazonian on January 28, 2009
Format: Paperback
I bought this off Amazon w/o seeing the contents. I've been climbing over 20 years and know cracking climbing technique pretty well. However, Steve Petro and Lisa Gnade are well known for their crack climbing prowess so I figured I could always use a few more tips to keep improving. The book, however, I think will be useless for anyone who has been climbing for more than 1-2 months. Even then, as a beginner guide, I think most will find this one at the bottom of the available options for it's lack of depth about anything. The jamming descriptions are undetailed to the point of being useless, and fill only a few thin chapters at the beginning of the book. Only a few of the classic jams are even mentioned. The remaining 80% or so of the book is filled with a broad and thin treatment of leading and equipment and such that all but the most inexperienced will find to be of little value.

My opinion of this book was sealed when I came across a section describing "Leavittation", an off-width crack technique attributed to Randy Leavitt. After a short section describing the technique with no illustrations, the book stated you could use this technique on "Leavittation 29" in Red Rocks. That may be so, somewhere, I'm not sure where - however, Levitation 29 was not named after Randy Leavitt, nor his techniques. It was a climb done by the Uriostes and free climbed by John Long and Lynn Hill on Hill's 29th birthday.
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0 of 1 people found the following review helpful By Rodger Raubach VINE VOICE on February 26, 2010
Format: Paperback
I have been in a climbing hiatus for many years, and I bought this volume as a planner to help refresh my climbing skills. I have avoided climbing offwidth cracks throughout my career as a climber, and treated squeeze chimneys like the bubonic plague. There are a number of climbs I still want to do that include these features, and techniques for dealing with them seem to be well-treated in Steve's guide.
The anecdote described on pp. 91-92, "Dunked in Fremont Canyon" really did occur, as I was there the day it happened, and saw the huge splash in the North Platte!
Overall, a well executed climbing primer.
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0 of 1 people found the following review helpful By Gingermonkey on February 28, 2013
Format: Paperback
If you've ever climbed a flake or crack you could write this book. If your looking for tips on gear placement go with John Longs anchors book, if you want to improve movement and technique go with How to Rockclimb!, and if you want to work on mindset, Rock Warriors Way. This book was terrible.
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