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  • CrystaLac Wood Grain Filler, Quart
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CrystaLac Wood Grain Filler, Quart

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  • (1) Quart
  • It can be tinted with dyes or colors to match the wood
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Product Information

Technical Details
Part Number S-65 CLEAR FILLER QT
  
Additional Information
ASINB001DT3LN0
Best Sellers Rank #19,345 in Home Improvement (See top 100)
Shipping Weight2.2 pounds
Date First AvailableJune 22, 2008
  
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Product Description

Clear wood filler dries rapidly for quick sanding! It's great for exotic woods that are colorful, and it can be tinted with dyes or colors to match the wood. Makes an ideal wipe-on sealer for porous woods.

Just wipe on and trowel off with sanding between coats. Apply several coats if needed.
For best results, stain wood before applying filler. Minimal shrink formula. Quart.

Caution: Avoid breathing sanding dust. Use an OSHA approved dust mask. Contains silica. Do no ingest. Keep out of reach of children. Keep from freezing.

Customer Reviews

It's easy to use, and dries quickly.
Mary Harrell
I used a technique employed by one of the people whose review played a part in my decision to purchase this in the first place, and that didn't work.
Kucero
Two coats did the job with light steel wool buff between coats.
Amazon Customer

Most Helpful Customer Reviews

33 of 34 people found the following review helpful By Christopher J. Kemper on February 24, 2010
Verified Purchase
I never tend to follow the directions. With years of wood finishing techniques under my belt I have found that sometimes, with some careful experimenting one can find a much better way to utilize a product for a specific finished result. This product is one of those. I use an oil based sanding sealer that is allowed to fully cure and is sanded smooth. Over that I put not 1 but 2 coats of this stuff, and allow 4+ days of drying time at room temp before sanding it. Once done the item looks like a piece of glass, however open grains do not loose their appearance of depth and character through the 'glass' surface. On top of this I then apply 6+ coats of high gloss polyurethane, sanded to ever greater grits between coats. The final coat I let cure for 1 month and then polish sand to 2600 grit, wax, buff, and call it a day.

This product cuts the work of achieving a true 'piano gloss' appearance down significantly. The greatest caveat is that you really do need 2 coats, and each coat needs at least 4 days to cure out.
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11 of 12 people found the following review helpful By Mark on April 7, 2011
Verified Purchase
In the end everything worked out but the product does not give good directions, basically says apply and wipe off excess and sand between coats. I called Rockler and they helped out as much as they could but all they could give me was the manufacturer's name. I searched them online and called but never got a person.

I applied it with the grain, let it sit 2-4 minutes, and remove with a rubber squeegee. Immediately after application it doesn't look or feel much different but after it dries overnight it looks great.
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4 of 4 people found the following review helpful By Mark Oribello on May 15, 2014
Verified Purchase
A pore filler is NOT the same as a sanding sealer - a sanding sealer is applied so your final topcoats aren't drawn into the wood unevenly; for my application I used orange shellac but there's a whole variety of them out there. For that matter, sanding sealer is definitely NOT the same as a pore filler; pore filler is applied after the sanding sealer to fill the pores in woods like mahogany, oak, etc. There are oil and water-based pore fillers out there; from here on out this is the only one I'll be using. It drys 100% clear and really, really makes your final surface smooth and glossy. Because it's water-based I could just rinse my hands / tools off (I'd still recommend wearing gloves when working with it since it also does a nifty job of filling in pores on skin).

I read the reviews, both positive and negative, before deciding to try this for a veneered bar top project. The reviews, especially the one from Chris Kemper, were much more useful than the half of a sentence printed on the side of the bucket. To reiterate and expand on his (very helpful) review:

1) Shake this product well before you open it (you can shake it after you open it, too, but I don't think you'll be happy with the results or subsequent cleanup). It should be the consistency of sour cream

2) Use a scraper to pull a small amount from the tub (I used an old Border's Bookstore gift card - it's good for something at least...). Work the filler into the wood against the grain in one direction, then in the opposite direction, then with the wood grain in one direction, etc. etc. The idea is to work it into the pores in as many directions as possible.
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3 of 3 people found the following review helpful By HugeStakkaBoFan VINE VOICE on May 30, 2014
I didn't read any instructions anywhere, but upon my first encounter with the product, it was fairly obvious that it wasn't going to behave like most grain fillers as it looks a lot more like the acrylic varnish one would use to seal a canvas painting. I slathered it onto my stained maple parts fairly thickly with a foam brush and let it dry about six hours. After that I hit it with a bit of 220 paper until the brush strokes leveled out and all the glue seams and fine pores were gone. Two coats took care of whatever was left. I dunno about drying for four days--seems a bit excessive as it sands very well for me with far less time, and I live in a cool, humid coastal town. Hand sanding is definitely preferable to electric--the dust gums up every paper known to man under the heat of all the friction, and it's really, really, really easy to sand right through the stain even on the slowest speeds.

I think all the complainers are just trying to scrape it flush and it's a little too thin to work that way. Treat it more like a really thick sanding sealer and it delivers in spades.
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3 of 3 people found the following review helpful By Theresa Zittritsch on November 22, 2013
Verified Purchase
I think this product is ok... it's directions are incredibly poor and you have to rely on others posts here. I did that and came away just ok. I filled both a white oak and red oak table and it took several coats and did not fill completely. Based on how you have to apply, let dry a bit, scape and force into the pores, you end up with a huge amount of wasted product in the trash. From that perspective, and based on it's price.. it's a tough buy. That said, there are not many alternative.
One thing I will recommend, shake the tub vigorously when you get it. Mine looked like cottage cheese and would not dry very fast until I shook it up, and it turned into the consistency of thin sour cream (much smoother) and dried very fast.... so don't do large areas.
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