The Crystal Horizon: Everest-The First Solo Ascent [Paperback]

Reinhold Messner (Author)

Book Description

Publication Date: August 5, 1998

On August 20, 1980, Reinhold Messner, the world-renowned master of alpine-style climbing, became the first person to reach the summit of Everest solo and without supplemental oxygen. A vivid account of Messner's expedition, "The Crystal Horizon" also reflects on how he explored his innermost thoughts while facing the most extreme physical challenge he had ever encountered. The furthest point for mind and body he calls his crystal horizon.Inspired by the legendary mountaineers George Mallory and Maurice Wilson, Messner embarked on a year-long journey through Tibet to the glittering light and rarified air at the roof of the world. More than an adventure story, this is Messner's profound reflection on his emotional reactions to Tibet, the challenges he faced, and the explorations of self - inspired by this amazing journey.More than an adventure, this captures Messner's reflections on Tibet and the climbers who have gone before him. Messner ranks among the most accomplished mountaineers in history. This edition brings a mountaineering classic back into print.

Editorial Reviews

From Library Journal

The controversial Messner, revered by some as the spiritual leader of mountaineering and denounced by others as a macho peak-bagger, chronicles his extraordinary 1980 solo climb of the world's tallest mountain. Messner's philosophy dictates that he climb without the aid of oxygen and unencumbered by the people and equipment of large-scale expeditions; he carries only a tent, camera, some climbing equipment, and food. Climbing from the Tibetan side, Messner provides intriguing observations of that mysterious region. He also includes fascinating stories of the climbers who preceded him. Messner presents selections from the diary of his American girlfriend, who accompanied him to base camp. Messner's reflections, coupled with those entries, show Messner to be egotistical and self-centered, perhaps the very characteristics that make him such a determined, ambitious, and great climber. Highly recommended for adult as well as YA collections.
- Melinda Stivers Leach, Precision Editorial Svces., Boulder, Col.
Copyright 1989 Reed Business Information, Inc. --This text refers to an out of print or unavailable edition of this title.

Language Notes

Text: English (translation)
Original Language: German --This text refers to an out of print or unavailable edition of this title.

Product Details

• Paperback: 324 pages
• Publisher: Mountaineers Books (August 5, 1998)
• Language: English
• ISBN-10: 0898865743
• ISBN-13: 978-0898865745
• Product Dimensions: 9 x 6.2 x 0.8 inches
• Shipping Weight: 1.5 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
• Average Customer Review: 3.9 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (17 customer reviews)
• Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #449,240 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
  • #42 in Books > Travel > Specialty Travel > Solo Travel
  • #64 in Books > Travel > Asia > Nepal

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Customer Reviews

Most Helpful Customer Reviews

34 of 36 people found the following review helpful:

4.0 out of 5 stars Great story, poorly translated, and bogs down in details, February 8, 2001

By 

Tim Schmidt (Washington) - See all my reviews
(REAL NAME)   

This review is from: The Crystal Horizon: Everest-The First Solo Ascent (Paperback)

Great story, poorly translated, and bogs down in details you may not care about.

Reinhold Messner is clearly one of the great climbers of all time and maybe arguably the greatest. Having climbed all 14 peaks above 8,000 meters by himself without supplemental oxygen, this is the story of the tallest-Everest.

Like good fiction, the story has several dimensions that work together. The three basic themes include: · The story of the opening of Tibet · The story of climbing Everest · The story of a waiting love one

For the pure climbing enthusiast, much of this book is likely to be pretty boring. Approximately half the book is dedicated to the story of obtaining permission to climb Everest on the Tibetan side and his traveling through Tibet on his way to the mountain. Reinhold Messner has a deep love for Tibet and its people. For him this first trip through Tibet was as exciting as the assent of Everest. For someone less interested in this, the first half of the book is excruciating. Interwoven in this section is Messner's political agenda to free Tibet from Chinese domination.

The story of the actual climb is amazing. Undeniably one of the most amazing ascents ever, he climbed Mount Everest, alone, without supplemental oxygen, during the monsoon period! Obviously crazy, the accomplishment is undeniable. What was especially great is getting a sense of what it was like for him to make the climb, the obstacles he faced, and the nearly robotic drive to the top of the mountain. It is both inspiring and daunting. During the ascent, he finds himself in impossible positions like his having fallen into a crevasse or crack in the glacier. You know that he survives but you still find your self on the edge of your seat in total suspense. It was difficult to put the book down during this part of the book.

Throughout the story there are excerpts from the diary of his girlfriend. For the most part, I found this annoying and did not want to hear her story. At the same time, it was interesting to have the perspective of the loved ones who wait at the bottom to see if you come home. It certainly is hard for anyone who cares. At the same time, those climbing the mountain give the mountain everything and emotionally, mentally, or physically there is nothing left. Undoubtedly this is a major reason for Messner's previous divorce. While mountain climbing may be the art of suffering, this element of the book shows that it is also a part of the lives of the climber's loved ones.

The worst part of the book is the writing. I am not sure if it is on the part of bad English by Reinhold Messner or poor translation by an editor. In either case, those familiar with working with the Germans will recognize the sometimes-strange sentence structure, phases that do not make sense, and the occasional struggle to figure out what the heck he is trying to say. I look forward to my German improving so that I can read the book in German.

All in all, an amazing story and is well worth the time to read it. The reader that is able to skim through uninteresting parts will enjoy the book more. Otherwise it requires some amount of dedication to power through the parts that are of disinterest.

19 of 19 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars story of a superclimber, June 9, 1999

By A Customer

This review is from: The Crystal Horizon: Everest-The First Solo Ascent (Paperback)

this guy, Reinhold Messner, is at least one standard deviation beyond the world's greatest mountain climbers. he climbed everest solo and in the alpine style: not relying on any artificial means such as bottled oxygen, or assistance from Sherpas or even a climbing partner. it was the first solo ascent of the highest mountain "by fair means". note: Reinhold Messner was also the first to climb everest without oxygen, with his climbing partner, Peter Habeler, previous to this solo ascent. it was such an incredible feat at the time that many people frankly doubted it. the man is physically gifted, has tremendous will, and the courage to attempt not just an act that had never been done, but one that most experts believed was impossible. he was a visionary. and, he made his attempt from the tibetan side, which is the more difficult route. plus, he was also not getting along with his girlfriend at the time which may or may not have made it easier. his literary talents are passable, but that's not important. most important is content. he comes across as genuine, and gives the reader biographical glimpses of his personality which opens him up to petty criticism from sources whose main accomplishments probably have been reading books. this man is a purist and a rare genius of extreme climbing whose unparalled feats of mountaineering did not receive adequate recognition. so be it. let history be the final judge of his deeds. he will come out on top.

10 of 10 people found the following review helpful:

3.0 out of 5 stars Story is slow, climbing is good, October 26, 2004

By 

M. Ragen "searagen" (Seattle, WA USA) - See all my reviews
(REAL NAME)   

This review is from: The Crystal Horizon: Everest-The First Solo Ascent (Paperback)

This book demonstrates that Reinhold is not a master of the writing craft even though he knows a lot about mountain climbing and other extreme adventures. The writing (or at least the translation) is wooden -- compare these books to those of Joe Simpson or Greg Childs. Still, there was much that was interesting in this book and many good photographs. Some of the details on the journey to Everest through Tibet were intriguing. All in all, this book deserves three stars and would be worthwhile recommending to someone who really enjoys mountaineering.