The English middle class in the late nineteenth century enjoyed an increase in the availability and variety of material goods. With that, the visual markers of class membership and manly behavior underwent a radical change. In The Cut of His Coat: Men, Dress, and Consumer Culture in Britain, 1860 –1914, Brent Shannon examines familiar novels by authors such as George Eliot, Anthony Trollope, Thomas Hughes, and H. G. Wells, as well as previously unexamined etiquette manuals, period advertisements, and fashion monthlies, to trace how new ideologies emerged as mass-produced clothes, sartorial markers, and consumer culture began to change. While Victorian literature traditionally portrayed women as having sole control of class representations through dress and manners, Shannon argues that middle-class men participated vigorously in fashion. Public displays of their newly acquired mannerisms, hairstyles, clothing, and consumer goods redefined masculinity and class status for the Victorian era and beyond. The Cut of His Coat probes the Victorian disavowal of men’s interest in fashion and shopping to recover men’s significant role in the representation of class through self-presentation and consumer practices.
--This text refers to the
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“Shannon’s book is like one of those nifty wardrobes advertised for sale by the new department stores of the era, a polished piece of furniture with carefully labeled chapters and neatly hanging concepts that help us organize all that information and tuck it away without getting it wrinkled.”—Ellis Hanson, author of Decadence and Catholicism
--This text refers to the
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edition.
About the Author
Brent Shannon is a visiting professor of English at Transylvania University in Lexington, Kentucky. He has published articles on nineteenth-century literature and culture in Victorian Studies and Studies in Browning and His Circle.
--This text refers to the
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7 of 7 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars
The Most Insightful Study on the History of Men's Dress Ever Written,
By Sator (Sydney, Australia) - See all my reviews
This review is from: The Cut of His Coat: Men, Dress, and Consumer Culture in Britain, 1860-1914 (Paperback)
I have just finished reading this book which I received in the mail through Amazon this morning.
If there were a simple summary of the book I would dare to say it was a superbly written history of dandyism from the nineteenth century down to the present. The author modestly claims to cover only the periods of 1860 to 1914 but he is forced to discuss the Beau Brummel period of the early 19th century Regency Period right through to the present. Far from being the frivolously written facile populist writing one usually encounters when discussing the topic of dandyism this book is a seriously researched piece of sociology which deals with the dandy in every manifestation throughout this time period. At times the dandy was the hero while at others villainised for his effeminacy - such as following the scandal surrounding Oscar Wilde. With the rise of the middle class came the masher, the gent, the knut, the swell, the cad - and finally in the epilog the metrosexual and the retrosexual are all seen as variations on the same theme through history amid a changing social background. The book is immediately captivating from its opening passage: "In May, 1094, the London Men's Monthly Fashion reprinted in full a letter to the Irish Independent by a frustrated tailor and closet reader of popular fiction. "I wonder what it is that the writers of fiction pay so little attention to costuming of their male characters," the letter began; "Of course nobody expects a man's clothes to be as interesting as a woman's but their certainly deserve more than they get in novels, particularly the novels of women. The tailor cautiously admitted that he had lately begun to read a great deal of fiction, "not because I like it, but because I was anxious to find out how real heroes dressed. I didn't learn much. Judging by the scant courtesy accorded the apparel of mankind in literature, they didn't do much dressing"..."It isn't fair to us tailors," he concluded; "Dressmakers get a good write-up on almost every page of the popular novels but the tailor is cut down to about six lines in the whole book". " The whole culture of menswear as being something that much be presented as though completely uncalculated yet presented with sprezzatura (the author never uses that word but it came to mind numerous times as I was reading the book) is traced. Part and parcel with this was the Victorian eshewal of anything other than solid black for serious business attired with all other colours being regarded as being ostentatious to the point of being almost morally suspect. The author does an extraordinary job of unearthing the extremes gentlemen went to to produce an air of such sprezzatura - of an extreme calculated uncalculatedness that demanded of itself that it be forgotten while all the while presenting itself as the perfect manifestation of gentlemanly ways. Later the whole history of the dominance of the black frock coat is followed until its demise with rise of the lounge suit in the latter 19th to early 20th century. It becomes clear that the lounge suit arose in the age of increasing mass production and the rise of ready-to-wear clothing causing a demise in bespoke tailoring. After all the lounge suit was loose fitting and the precisely tailored forms of the frock coat was alien to mass production. In the course of this the question of dandyism and ready-to-wear vs bespoke is inevitably raised. Right throughout the book there are numerous carefully chose illustrations which enrich the reading experience enormously. The writing style is inviting and fluent throughout in the way the narrative of the history of dandyism is presented to us. I must confess to have been unable to put it down and read it from cover to cover in the course of a single evening. In conclusion I would say this is the best book on the history of menswear I have yet to read which covers issues that remain true to our hearts and imminently relevant to anyone concerned with elegant dressing for men. Essential reading and heartily recommended to all. Indeed you might even see it as a perfect accompaniment to Antongiovanni's book The Suit which was originally entitle The Dandy.
11 of 15 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars
It's fantastic!,
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This review is from: The Cut of His Coat: Men, Dress, and Consumer Culture in Britain, 1860-1914 (Hardcover)
This is by far the best book my brother ever wrote! I loved it!
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