Customer Reviews

D-Link DSL-2540B ADSL2/2+ Modem with 4-Port Ethernet Router TR067/069

5 star:		(31)
4 star:		(10)
3 star:		(9)
2 star:		(3)
1 star:		(9)

 

 

I have been a long standing AT&T DSL subscriber in Texas. When my seemingly ancient 2Wire Homeportal 1000 finally gave way after ~7 years of use (aka, died), I called AT&T and assumed they would send a replacement DSL modem post haste. Au contraire. Said I was on my own, and was frankly pretty shocked as I am a big AT&T customer. I use an Apple Airport Extreme wireless network (5 wireless distribution nodes) and did not want/need to purchase the latest 2Wire WIFI device at over $200, but I also wanted more than one ethernet port on the device. BTW - I ran the HomePortal in Bridge Mode.

The D-Link DSL-2540B fit the bill but I was hesitant as I needed to configure the ne modem in Bridge or Bridging mode as I use PPPoE to connect to the net from my Airport Extreme base station. I found the following config info on the net (see below) while researching various solutions, and when my DSL-2540B today, I was up and running within 10 minutes.

Performance and connectivity have been great.

AT&T Bridge Mode Settings

Connect your computer directly to the D-Link. Use a cable, as Wi-Fi masochism is beyond the scope of this document. Browse to http://192.168.1.1/ in the browser of your choice. If your system has assigned itself a 169.mumble address, you will first need to manually assign your computer an IP address like 192.168.1.5, a subnet mask of 255.255.255.0, and a default gateway of 192.168.1.1 to do so.
You should be challenged for a username and password to proceed. By default these are both set to "admin" and you really ought to change this at some point.
You should be presented with a Home / Wizard screen. Un-check the box labeled "DSL Auto-connect." This will allow you to specify the VPI and VCI for your connection. For most ISPs in the AT&T ILEC footprint, this will be 0 and 35 respectively. Click Next.
You should be prompted to set the connection type. Select the radio button labeled "Bridging" and the pull-down menu option labeled "LLC/SNAP-BRIDGING." Click Next.
You will be presented with the Device Setup screen. The default settings will suffice for most home use. Click Next.
You will be presented with the wireless configuration screen. If you wish to disable wireless for some reason (and should have bought at 2320B instead), un-check the box labeled "Enable Wireless." Click Next.
You will be presented with a summary of your configuration. Read it carefully to ensure that it understood you correctly, then click the button labeled "Save / Reboot." The DSL-2640B will restart, after which you should have Internet connectivity.

Retired WAN (Wide Area Networking) programmer from a vary large networking company, and as such was surprised when my AT&T ADSL/Router died after only two years. My options were to buy:
AT&T ADSL/Router
....Will diagnose their products remotely - however not others.
....Reliability??
ADSL/Router at large office supply store.
....Difficult to configure.
....Non-standard local IP Address.
....Had to call support to configure.
....Returned - didn't meet 6 Meg bandwidth spec (a waste of $$$).
D-Link ADSL/Router.
....Meets all specs.
....Works like a champ.
....Easy to setup.
....Standard local IP address.

First of all auto-connect does not work for Verizon but manual configuration will work, the settings below is for verizon. I have verizon dsl with dhcp, no pppoe or pppoa, which means i get a dynamic ip address from verizon. I had to disconnect my old modem overnight so the IP address would be release from my old modem, and then plug in my new dlink modem and go into the dlink browser and create new wan setting and enter

VPI=0, VCI=35,MAC encapsulation,Routing=LLC/SNAP Bridging,Obtain IP Address Automatically,Connection type=MER,Service name=mer_0_35(default),Servicd category=UBR(UBR without PCR),Service state=enabled, nat enabled,Firewall=enabled,IGMP Multicast enabled,wan service enabled, Quality of service=disabled, user/password=admin/admin to start.

Update: After a 6 months to a year with all the manual configs I had set, it constantly stopped connecting to the internet after a few hours. It might have something to do with Verizon's end not being compatible, I dunno. Sometimes it worked and then it stops working after few hours, it became a major headache that I had went back to my westell. Verizon only support their own routers and Dlink's tech support are not network admins who know the configurations to connect your router to your isp so they're useless. For verizon dsl people, I would stick with westell or go get FIOS like i did.

First of all I wanted you to know that this is a great modem/router. Before I had a modem and a router (I have three computers hooked up in the house). My old modem finally gave out and I wanted to try this one since it had the router built in. The biggest problem was it wouldn't connect to the internet and I couldn't figure it out. So I called customer service and was told that you had to get a VIC and a VPI number and that could only be obtained from the internet service provider (AT&T) but it wouldn't be a problem to get it. Let me tell you the internet provider doesn't want to give it out......that way you have to buy your modems from them. After hashing it out with them for about fifteen minutes and threatening to drop their service and talk to their supervisor they gave it to me. THen it was just a matter of typing in the numbers and the modem worked perfectly.
So be prepared for a little hassle if you want to buy this product. I haven't tried any other modems so I can't tell you if they are as difficult.
I wish dlink had included an installation cd as well.......instead all they do is give you a manual on a cd but after reading 68 pages you still don't know how to fix your problems....
All in all though I really do like this product......even with the hook up problems. It is so much nicer to have a modem and a router in one and looks much neater. Also my computers are running faster.....that shows the old modem was really on it's last leg.

I bought this to replace a 3 year old defective Westell 327w Verizon provided. This was my second Westell modem and I did not want to pay VZ $89 for a third. After reading reviews about compatibility here and elsewhere I decided to purchase this modem. Before setting it up, I wrote down all my settings from the old Westell with the vision of having a complicated setup -- the setup was easier than I expected from reading the reviews. I plugged the D-Link in, went to the setup page, and the wizard did everything else. I was online within 5 minutes of plugging everything in.

No need to release my IP. No need to input any settings. No need to battle through VZ's technical support (not that I would rely on them for any support).

Random thoughts after running this modem for a week:
This modem gives nice a fair amount of detail in it's logs for those who need it.
If you are running a web server, it has either DMZ or port forwarding for your needs.
Within the admin page you can disconnect/reconnect your connection with usually helps in solving slow speeds.
This modem does get hot, so i wouldn't recommend stacking it on top or under another product.

Have had the device for about three weeks. Easy setup with Embarq ADSL under PPPOE. Used the auto config option to see how well it would work but was prepared to manually address if needed. Worked like a champ and has never dropped, hung, etc. Very stable. Can't say that about my previous equipment which is why I replaced. VPN Passthru and Vonage works with no additional configs needed from the default settings. Also, the device "stealths" all external ports to external scanning. Very happy so far.

The modem now works very well and I am satisfied. I however have two initial concerns. First, as a Qwest internet user, the modem's setup wizard was totally useless. It took some five hours and two calls to Qwest to get it configured (and I consider myself reasonably competent). A second concern relates to its operating temperature. When left horizontal, it can get uncomfortably warm on the bottom (at least warmer than I think it should get). After positioning vertically, it has cooled off. Unfortunately, you'll have to create your own stand since it will not stand vertical by itself.

The website doesn't a give a specific hardware version, they just tell you to look on the box for the model number. Then, they offer two choices from which I selected "DSL-2540B", the only matching one (as shown on the white sticker on the side of the box). There were no warnings nor indications about hardware version of any kind(hardware version on mine is "H/W:T1"). They do mention that "This firmware is engineered for North American products only", but offer no clue how to tell the difference. Well, not only did I buy it the US, but my modem also has a US FCC registration number.

So, long story short, they are handing out either the wrong firmware or expecting people to guess which hardware version it belongs to. Because in my case, it bricked my working modem (lights are on but no DHCP; reset does nothing). And from the looks of their website, which is devoid of any useful information within the firmware section, it doesn't really look like they care, or maybe they just abandoned this product for good.


Note: Someone else had a similar problem here with the firmware.

I have DSL service and it was awful - constantly I had no internet connection, sometimes for days at a time. Or, it would be on then 2 minutes later, go out and keep going on like this day after day. After countless calls to my provider, who just kept having me do the same things over & over which never fixed the problem, I gave up. I had figured it was the lousy modem that came with the service, so I decided to buy my own modem/router. So I did some research and read alot of reviews on here and elsewhere, and decided on this D-Link. I had read a few others mention it worked with their Verizon service, so I figured it would work with mine. It would have been much easier to set up and get started if I'd not had problems setting up my first DSL account a couple years ago, the software failed to install and we never got an email account or username & password, etc. And go figure that I needed that username & password to set up this new modem. After hours on the phone with both Verizon and D-Link (until I finally spoke to someone who knew exactly what they were doing), this modem was installed and ready to go. Right away I could notice a huge difference! My browsing is much quicker and smoother, and the best thing is...I actually can get on to the internet, unlike with my provider's modem. I only had 1 or 2 days where the service was out, so I'm sure that was the "service" and not the new modem. Before it was out constantly and with this modem my connection works great. And since it is a combination DSL router and modem (it is not wireless, though), you can also hook up to 4 computers to it. All in all, I am very happy with this purchase!

I replaced my poopy Westell 6100 from Verizon with this one. I tried the D-Link 2520B but it doesn't play nice. I manually set the modem as the "Geekster" recommended.
Enter VPI=0, VCI=35,MAC encapsulation,Routing=LLC/SNAP Bridging,Obtain IP Address Automatically,Connection type=MER,Service name=mer_0_35(default),Servicd category=UBR(UBR without PCR),Service state=enabled, nat enabled,Firewall=enabled,IGMP Multicast enabled,wan service enabled, Quality of service=disabled, user/password=admin/admin to start.
The internet status light came on immediately. D-Link's instructions have you manually set your TCP/IP to a standard IP. Once you have finished manually setting the modem, return your TCP/IP to automatic IP or you won't be able to hook up to the internet.