Americans are enjoying more game and fresh foie gras than ever. This happy state of affairs is due largely to D'Artagnan--the country's main purveyor of game and domestically produced foie gras--and the zeal of its game-enthusiast owners, Ariane Daguin and George Faisan. The two, joined by food writer Joanna Pruess, now offer D'Artagnan's Glorious Game Cookbook
, a long-overdue look at game cookery today. The book presents more than 200 classic and contemporary recipes, many collected from some of the country's best chefs. Game novices and those wanting to explore more fully the wide range of game products now available should be delighted.
Chapters devoted to game birds and farm-raised poultry, game meats, foie gras, sausages, and charcuterie offer a rich range of modern, approachable recipes including grabbers like Roasted Capon with Chestnut Honey, Dixie Duck Confit, Venison Chili with Apples, and Partridge, Pear, and Wild Mushroom Strudel. More traditional dishes, like Poule au Pot or Moroccan Squab Pie, and foie gras specialties including foie gras terrine and Pan-Roasted Foie Gras Roti with Sauternes Sauce anchor the collection. Anecdotes such as "A Passionate Grouse Lover's Challenge," interviews with game growers and providers, cooking tips and how-tos, as well as a foie gras primer and liver lexicon entertain and inform. Once considered beyond the reach of most, game today is an ever-more available, affordable, and delicious treat, a point the book brings home in dozens of enticing ways. --Arthur Boehm
From Publishers Weekly
The owners of D'ArtagnanAthe country's main distributors of domestic foie gras and wild game, whose customers include Le Cirque and the White HouseAalong with food writer Pruess, present a dense, picturesque volume that is in parts shameless promotion, learned discourse on food exotica and intriguing recipes. Advertorials abound as the authors promote not only their own shop, but also bring in their suppliers to do riffs on what they raise and why it's good. An owner of South Carolina's Manchester Farms, for instance, explains more than readers need to know about her semiboneless quail. The authors' prose style switches from sturdy and useful explorations of wild meats (grouse and woodcock, deer and elk), to hyperbolic menu-speak like this description of a chicken dish: "Plump poussin, lacquered with sweet raspberry glaze, play against earthy wild mushrooms and toothy, hearty wild rice pancakes." Nonetheless, the dishes themselves make up for the excess verbiage. Ground cumin and a tomato-avocado pico de gallo enlivens a batch of Ostrich Fajitas. And wild boar, orange juice, beer, yucca and poblano chilies poured into a spicy pie shell becomes Yucatecan Boar Pot Pie with Jalape?o-Corn Crust. Adventuresome cooking comes rarely without sacrifice. Readers may have to fend off the boasting nature of the text in order to discover new dinner ideas. (Oct.)
Copyright 1999 Reed Business Information, Inc.