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497 of 547 people found the following review helpful
on January 18, 2012
Ok a little background on who I am and what I do. I am not a weekend carpenter or a DYI'er. I am a finish carpenter by trade and do this everyday. It supports me and my family and is not just a hobby.

I bought this saw a couple of years ago and posted a 4 star review initially after using it for about a week or so. The new light system on it was really awesome when aligning the blade/cut. It was fairly light for a 12" saw and with my Forest Chopmaster blade the cuts were amazing.

This saw would be pretty kick a*s if they could change one thing on it....the linear bearings on the slide. Mine was nearly impossible to make a slide cut with the blade down in the cut position. When I first used it almost every cut I made was a chop (casing some windows, crown on some cabinets). Then I got into a set of stairs where I was cutting, or trying to cut, skirt boards. Holy crap. I thought something was wrong with my blade but when I made the cutting motion with no material on the saw it was the same deal. The saw apparently only has bearings on the right hand tube (I have read this). When you lower the head it torgues the crap out of the slides making it difficult to slide. This is just plain old stupid IMO. How much would it cost to improve the bearings on this saw?? Anyway, Dewalt hasn't made a good slide saw since the old DW706 or 708 (the one with the slides stacked vertically on top of each other). That saw was awesome. No gimmicks. Just a good strong saw that cut accurately. Should have never sold mine. I replaced with the 718 which was an absolute joke as far as a finish saw. I sold it to a framer and warned him of the saws limitations. That saw would cut perfectly square until you tried to make a long bevel cut (example was trimming my personal home with 7 1/2" base). When you beveled the saw either left or right, it would throw it out of square almost 2 degrees (this equaled about 1/4" on 7 1/2 material).

Anyway, I returned the saw and have no intentions of buying another Dewalt product (of any kind) until they can get a slide saw out that will perform. I'm sure someone is going to ask what I ended up with...I own 2) Hitachi C10FSH saws and also a Festool Kapex (I had 2 of them until some thief decided I didn't need it any longer). I am currently using the Hitachi while the Kapex rests on the shelf for nearly 3 months now. Hope this review helps and I welcome your comments or questions.
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148 of 161 people found the following review helpful
Vine Customer Review of Free Product( What's this? )
I'm writing this review not from the perspective of a home contractor or professional, but rather a home handyman / hobbyist. I do not have a huge collection of tools, but previous to receiving this DeWalt DWS780, my "chop saw" of choice was a Dewalt DW703, a 10" compound miter saw, single bevel. That DW703 has since been replaced by the largely similar DW713. Both saws had a smaller blade, and only a single-bevel with no slide.

Likewise, the DWS780 is replacing the similar DW718. Looking at both miter saws online, they are hard to distinguish except for the addition of the new XPS cross cut positioning system that I will discuss in a minute.

The DWS780 is truly a versatile saw, and you can tell the second you get the box that it is solidly built and not like some of the cheaper off-brand tools you see today. This is the quality you expect from DeWalt, and the saw is ready to be used the second you take it out of the box. Despite having a 15-amp motor and a huge 12" blade, it is surprisingly quiet, well balanced, and actually reasonably portable. With 1 hand I was able to carry it down to my work room in the basement. I have confidence that I can store and transport this tool without needing to have a permanent bench for it.

Most homeowners do not need more than a 10" single bevel miter saw. If you are doing flooring, shoe moulding, or other simple tasks, a "chop saw" with a single bevel is all you need. If you are graduating to crown moulding you will appreciate the double-bevel. The saw features clear marks for all angles and bevels, with positive stops for the commonly used angles of 0, 22.5, 33.9, 45, and 49. When evaluating miter saws, the smoothness and quality of the angle setting is a clear differentiator between the no-name China brands and DeWalt. If you can't set a consistent angle and hold it while you cut, you will be disappointed with the results. The DWS780 makes this part a breeze. All parts are well machined and move smoothly with no hang-ups or catches.

There's no need to repeat all of the specifications for board size, but I will note that the sliding part of this allows you to cut much larger boards than a 12" saw by itself would allow. I could easily see cutting cabinet shelfs with ease using this tool. The slide is equally smooth and well machined. Running the saw, the blade and motor are surprisingly quiet and lack of vibration shows the device is well balanced.

The most innovative change is the XPS system, and it is quite a nice addition. The previous DWS718 used a laser guide for the saw. It can often be tough to tell where the saw will hit, and the laser would mark the wood to make it easier to position. The problem was that the laser needs to be properly calibrated. The XPS system uses a flood of LED light with a thin shadow that gets cast on the workpiece. The LED light has two nice effects. First, it lights the entire area so you can see what you are doing. Second, by using the shadow of the blade to create a line, it makes an accurate mark that needs no calibration.

If you have simple needs, get yourself a small 10" DeWalt. But if you start getting serious about home improvement, then you definitely cannot go wrong with the new DWS780 and XPS cross cut positioning system.
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122 of 133 people found the following review helpful
on February 11, 2012
I'm going to start with the bad news first. Although I really liked most things about this saw, the slide was unacceptable. It was sticky, rough, noisy, and just generally unacceptable for a high quality, precision tool. I guess if you are just cutting framing lumber, or things that aren't going to be visible, it might still work for you because it the cuts are accurate, just ugly. Even then, I would quickly tire of making cuts with this all day because it takes a lot more pressure to slide the blade through cuts than normal.
I tried the slide adjustment screw, but it was already where it needs to be. Any tighter and it wouldn't slide, any looser and it might not be accurate plus it didn't fix the sticky slide. I even took things apart and found out why it doesn't work. Only the left side of the slide has real bearings, and they are factory lubed and sealed, no adjustment possible there. The right side of the slide only has two bronze bushing/bearings that are tightened/loosed by the adjustment screw. It appears to me that the bearings on the left side are either defective or inadequate. I tried out two store models and found the same problem. I'm thinking the bearings are just inadequate.

I really hated to return this saw. Actually I was planning to exchange it, but after finding the same problem in the display model, I opted for a refund.

If you can live with a sticky slide, here are a few of the good points: it cut square and true right out of the box; it seems to be quieter than average for this type of saw; it is lighter weight and easier to carry than average for a 12" sliding miter saw; and the "Integrated XPS cross cut positioning system" works great. In fact the XPS light is the most innovative and exciting feature I've seen on a tool in quite a while. Basically, how it seems to work is a bright LED light above the blade which casts a shadow of the kerf of the blade. As you bring the blade down, the shadow sharpens and you can see all the teeth in detail on whatever you are cutting. As a plus it also lights up the area you are cutting, so you can see even at night with no other lights on. There is a switch near the main saw trigger switch to turn it on or off. And it runs on AC power through the main cord, so no batteries to change. After a few test cuts to figure out where exactly you want the shadow in relation to your cut mark, you can start making quick, precise cuts.
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16 of 17 people found the following review helpful
on February 17, 2013
In reference to other's comments: There is really no such sliding saw that has zero head deflection if pressed hard enough. Learn to use the saw with finesse and don't force it. It works just fine. For perfect stability get a radial arm saw or a saw buck. Every tool has its little quirks but this one has very few.

The good: 16" cross cut. Thumb lock works great. Easy to adjust the miter detentes to dial them in perfectly. Power! Pretty smooth glide. Nice light. Easy to bevel. (My last saw the Hitachi 12" was really clumsy to bevel) Love the bevel stops that pivot out of the way if you want them to. Very handy idea. Fence has a durable feel. Excellent Teflon glide for the miter base. Weighs less than other 12" saws and is way easier to carry than my old Hitachi.

The "oh well": The glide rails do stick out the back so it takes up a lot of room on a bench. The blade is not so good for finish work but then complaining about the bade a saw comes with is kinda like complaining that your new car came with bad wiper fluid. Just replace it. No big deal. The included blade would be great for framing lumber though. I recommend staying away from a thin kerf finish since it's more likely to wobble on a 12". Get a good 100 tooth full kerf.

The bad: I have not found anything bad about it just yet other than be careful in regards to "pull up" of the work piece since the blade plunges so far down into the base. But it's no big deal if one is careful. It's actually no big deal to simply not plunge the saw all the way down. Or, one could adjust the plunge stop up and then install a sacrificial fence. If you need to have the full 16" crosscut just remove the sacrificial fence temporarily. No saw will do absolutely every task without some modifications. For instance if you are one that can't figure out the math in order to cut crown flat (shame on you if you call yourself a carpenter) then build a sled jig with fence that is sized for the crown your working with and cut it standing up. Heck back in the old days with radial arms we had jigs for everything.

In conclusion: Good saw for the money, smooth and powerful, be careful of "pull up" if you have the grace of a neanderthal , buy a nice full kerf finish blade while your at the store getting your saw. Google up some you tube videos on making sacrificial fences and jigs.
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27 of 31 people found the following review helpful
on January 17, 2013
I bought this saw to use when installing hardwood floors in our house. I had researched a number of saws and chose the DWS780 because of other reviews, previous experience with Dewalt tools and the shadow line feature.

Reviews of many other saws either disliked either the lack of a laser or inaccuracy of the laser. The shadow line on the DWS780 is phenomenal. Without a doubt, it is my favorite feature. Although difficult to see outdoors, the reviews I read of other saws with lasers had the same difficulty in daylight.

I do have issues with this saw. As with many miter saw designs, you align the blade to 90 degrees and built-in miter detents are preset for 45 degrees. I found that the saw does not cut accurate 45 degree miters and the 45 degree detents are not adjustable. You either have accurate 90 degree cuts or one accurate 45 degree cut.

The other problem I have encountered (although I am not sure if this is a defect with my saw or a problem that would affect many) is that the plastic ring between the upper and lower tables broke within two weeks of use. Before I realized the problem the two metal parts ground together when trying to change the miter setting.

I called Dewalt support and they referred me to my local repair center. The location is 30 miles from me and they expect me to take the saw in for repair and pick it up when completed. 60 miles driving to let them fix their problem! If I could have returned the saw at that point, I would have.

At this point, I am still within the 90 day money back satisfaction guarantee and I may still return it to Dewalt for a refund. I understand that things break, but it would be much easier to send me the broken ring and let me replace it. And I cannot help but wonder if the ring will break again with continued use. I do not intend to drive 60 miles every time a plastic ring breaks.

Overall, I love the shadow line feature. But I am not sure if that is enough for me to keep the saw knowing the problems I have had thus far.

UPDATE: I returned the saw to the local repair center to have the defective plastic ring replaced. They spent about an hour replacing it so that I did not have to leave and return to pick it up. However, before taking the saw in for repair, I noticed a burr on the aluminum base that could have caused the ring to break. I intentionally didn't mention this when I took the saw in because I wanted to see if the repair person would look for causes of the breakage, find the burr and file it down. They did not. While this supposedly voids the warranty if work on the saw, I was able to remove the fence and the single bolt holding the saw to the base and file down the burr.
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33 of 39 people found the following review helpful
on December 4, 2012
I was pretty excited to get this saw as I have been mulling over a SCMS for months now. I was originally going to get a 10" and couldn't decide on which one. The Dewalts were always more expensive at the places I was looking so I didn't really give them a second look. Then I saw this one on amazon... a 12" for the same price as some of the other 10" saws I was looking at (makita, bosch) and so I took the plunge. I liked the idea of having the extra capacity, even though I don't really need it. I liked the form factor and weight is great for a 12" saw. BUT....

As soon as I got this thing on the bench and started playing with it, I noticed that it just wasn't cutting right. I was getting a LOT of blade deflection, which I suppose is somewhat normal with a 12" blade but this was ridiculous.I thought maybe I just wasn't using it properly so I proceeded to make 20-30 cuts using different techniques and I got to a point where I was making decent cuts with the stock blade. I figured I just needed to get a better blade with a thicker plate and that I needed to get used to the torque of this beast. the head jumps like crazy when you pull the trigger.

Funny thing was that usually you'd think that if the blade is deflecting, you slow down your cut right? That actually made it worse. I couldn't figure it out, having tried a couple different blades and having the same problem. I picked up a digital machinist dial and a holder base so I could check blade runouts and do setups on my table saws, so I though that on the 780 and the blade runout was reading in excess of .018"!!! that is crazy!! just to make sure I didn't just have bad blades I took a 10" diablo from my regular miter box. I verified this one only had about .001"-.002" runout on my other saw and then mounted it on the 780 and checked it with the dial. Still running out about .012"!! This is unacceptable for a saw this expensive.

More problems still. The slides on this thing are crap. you can oil the hell out of them and they get a bit better so its actually usable but again, on a saw this expensive you shouldn't have to. all the displays at other stores that I played with were the same way. I don't know how people can say that this slides well. The ryobi slider slides better.

By the way, the slides on this saw only have roller bearings on the left side. right rail has these two bronze thrust bearings that sit above and below the slide bar. They are cast bronze, porous and not polished. This just kinda dumbfounded me. They do it this way to be able make adjustments to the play in the slide mechanism but there has to be a different way of doing this. The bosch is the same way... it just doesn't make sense to me.

other little things that are kinda stupid is that this thing needed a lot of squaring up out of the box. not that big of a deal but everything was just a little bit out of square.

The XPS light thing is kinda cool. I like the overall feel of the saw and the bevel locks and miter locks are solid.

All in all this saw is being returned and I'm not gonna try another one. I'm gonna take my chances with the makita. At least the makita slides pretty smooth...
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48 of 58 people found the following review helpful
on October 8, 2011
I am an actual professional finish carpenter. This is an excellent saw. Came virtually perfect out of the box and if it goes out of adjustment set up is very easy. Besides being one of the easiest to use with the led light and simple solid miter system, it is also light and compact. Capacity is outstanding. This is a huge improvement over the 718. The 780s is accurate. I would completely disregard the reviewer who gave it one star. I think this is a great all around saw that will hold up well on the jobsite. The fences are solid and adjust easily. The bevel adjust is simple and very easy to use. The only complaint I have is that there is no soft start, but otherwise this saw gets it done.
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13 of 14 people found the following review helpful
on February 24, 2014
I was in need of a new saw that would replace an older 12" Ryobi chop saw (toy). I also wanted to eliminate the remaining nagging need for a less accurate radial arm saw. I had already replaced the need for overhand dados with a good router and the needs for most finish work with a highly accurate sled and fence on my table saw and needed something that could perform as a chop saw but also had the depth to crosscut a decent depth for stairs, flooring and really wide trim and finish pieces that ould be awkward to cut on the table saw no matter the setup.

I have not noticed ANY of the problems mentioned by some reviewers and the rather uniform form of those complaints leads me to believe some of them at least may be paid guerrilla commenters. The saw was checked right out of the box with a dial gauge and was dead on. The factory blade was not bad actually. It cuts cleanly as a general purpose crosscut blade but will obviously not last as long as a higher quality blade will or cut quite as cleanly as a finer toothed blade will but it cut through a set of 2 x 12 pressure treated for decking stairs very well; it also cut through some clear grade pine shelving without splintering the edge of the cut. I will still change the blade for really fine stuff. Also the saw didn't seem to bog down in the least going through the heavy pressure treated wood.

The XPS system is a freaking dream to use and such a vast improvement over any of the laser systems I've seen or used. If you bring the blade down almost to the wood you get a razor fine line where the saw will cut so you know exactly where the blade is going - no more adding a 1/16" or an 1/8" and the gravy is that you don't need to spin the blade up while your face is closer to the wood and blade to line the cut up because the XPS system is independent of the blade - just remember to turn it off when you're done using the saw. or you'll kill the long lived LEDs before their time and waste expensive electricity.

The dust bag is a joke as all dust bags have always been on all miter saws since they first came out. You can probably hook it up to a shop vac and be fine. The blade does quite a powerful job of chucking the saw dust out of the cut area giving it some momentum going into the dust chute. I have been hooking mine up to my roll around 1hp Grizzly dust collector though and love the performance and would say the claims about the dust collection of the hood behind the blade of this saw are not very much exaggerated. In fact I made a few cuts through some of the scrap 2 x 12 material without the dust collector or dust bag and received almost no dust in front of the saw. (It will shoot it out about 15-20 feet behind the saw though) I used a 1 1/2" to 4" Fernco coupler (cost like 4 bucks) on mine and a 6" length of 4" PVC scrap (the white stuff) to connect this to the 4" hose from the dust collector and it works like a charm.

The bearings. Many are the whinings about the bearings and the accuracy at full extension - especially when using the back fence to be able to cross cut 16". The first thing is that they stick or are hard to move. The first couple of passes out of the box and the bearings did in fact seem a bit stiff. There is little to no lube on the bars right out of the box as the bearings have not been slid over them. A few passes and they loosened up a bit; a little machine oil and they flew. The only time they seemed to bog after that was when I was making some test passes through scrap with no bag or dust collector hooked up to see how much dust was actually being captured by the blade hood. I'm sure this just accelerated what would happen slowly anyway but dust caked on the bearing did succeed in bogging up the glides. A simple wipe down followed by a few squirts of machine oil and I was back in business. That is simple, common sense maintenance though and shouldn't be held as a ding against the saw.
The other popular complaint is the accuracy at the full 16" cut depth. I made and installed the sub fence by following the instructions in the manual and made some test cuts. It bears to mention that 16" wide pieces of lumber of any length can be quite unwieldy and should be clamped before cutting - both for accuracy and for the love of our fingers. There was less than a 0.002" difference between the near side and the far side of the cut. That is far, far less than 1/64th of an inch and not noticeable in any finish work and I dare say a good bit closer to perfect than any of the cuts made on mass produced furniture. I've since used the saw to make 16" deep serving table made up of glued up pine panels and it is dead on square and level. As far as I am concerned that is near enough to perfect as makes no difference and about as close as you can get with any woodworking equipment.

I love this saw and see many years of use in it if taken care of properly. I did find it kind of amusing that the Ryobi branded stand I had purchased for my older Ryobi 12" miter saw required me to make an adapter plate out of plywood to fit the Ryobi saw to the clamps that hold it on the stand but the Dewalt fit right on the same clamps with no issue like they were made for it.
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8 of 8 people found the following review helpful
on April 29, 2013
I have had this saw for about 5 months now and I love the versatility of the product. I like the fact that it is a double bevel saw for crown molding. This saw has a lot of power to it so it would be nice if it had the soft start feature, however that was not a deal breaker for me. As far as others having problems with the sliding rails, I have not had this trouble yet. After each use (not cut) I make sure to blow off the saw with an air compressor in order to be sure all of the dust particles are out of the inner workings of the saw, something I suggest doing in order to prolong the life of your saw. Another thing I would change about the saw is the sliding fence for tall crown molding. It would be nice if the upper corners were not there because if you make a beveled cut with them slid in you will hit them.... like I did (see picture). This provided quite a scare although the saw cut right through them like butter and they are relatively thick metal. On the up side the blade was getting dull and needed to be replace but the fence sharpened it although I do not recommend doing this on purpose since is can be dangerous($40-60 for a blade or $25 for a replacement fence). I ended up buying the Dewalt rolling miter saw stand due to the weight of this saw, which is to be expected with a quality is not plastic like others.

2)Slide decent
3)Double bevel
4)Xps light- great for accurate cuts
5)Slides- note: says it can cut 16" actually 15 1/2"

1)Sliding fence gets in the way of bevel cuts (unless slid out)
3)Blade occasionally hits plastic table guard (probably my fault)

Update: 11/27/14

I have had this product for a few years now and I am still very impressed. I have used it for MANY projects and it continues to perform at an exceptional level. The only thing I have had to do was put a new blade on as the factory one dulled. I also have no longer had any issues with the blade hitting the yellow plastic table guard, however I have not done anything different or repositioned anything.... not sure what happened there but its alright with me.
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20 of 24 people found the following review helpful
on October 19, 2012
I like this double-bevel miter saw. It functions smoothly. It is easy to get it at the angle you want and it has no trouble staying there. The lighting mechanism is great.

That said, there are three inconveniences:

(1) This is the biggest inconvenience and it is perhaps a bit unsafe. You can set the saw at various depths from the fence. This is done by a screwing mechanism with a plastic head. I have tightened it as much as possible, but even then, it still somehow loosens up and when sawing a board, the sawing motion will pull the whole saw forward on the depth rail - sometimes instantaneously. If you are trying to only cut a specific distance into the board, this would ruin it for you. Also, if you had your hands in the wrong place (and I do mean the wrong place because they should be nowhere near the cutting area) or you got startled by the immediate movement of the saw, I could see this possibly being dangerous.

(2) The clamp should have some sort of quick lock mechanism on it, where you can move it up and down quickly and then tighten up the last 1/16th of an inch by twisting. Instead you have to slowly twist the entire distance.

(3) The dust collector is pretty worthless. I put the bag on empty two days ago. The bag has stayed pretty much empty, but there has been plenty of dust it could have collected.
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