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Editorial Reviews
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Owned by its chef Maria Martin and her husband Maurizio, Da Fiore is a much-lauded Venetian seafood restaurant. Son Damiano Martin's The Da Fiore Cookbook offers almost 100 recipes from the restaurant, from antipasti to desert. Whether "traditional," such as Mediterranean-Style Ceviche or Marinated Striped Bass with Aromatic Herbs, or more original, like Fried Soft-Shell Crabs on Arugula and Orange Salad and Chestnut-Filled Calamari, the simply conceived but deeply flavorful dishes are uniformly exciting. Though the recipes are easy enough to prepare, their success for the home cook will depend largely on ingredient freshness—there's no hiding place in these dishes for less than the best. Cooks should also be aware that some of the ingredients called for--imperial shrimp, for example--are either unavailable here or, like John Dory Fillets, hard to come by. (In some, but not all cases, substitutions have been suggested.)
Owned by its chef Maria Martin and her husband Maurizio, Da Fiore is a much-lauded Venetian seafood restaurant. Son Damiano Martin's The Da Fiore Cookbook offers almost 100 recipes from the restaurant, from antipasti to desert. Whether "traditional," such as Mediterranean-Style Ceviche or Marinated Striped Bass with Aromatic Herbs, or more original, like Fried Soft-Shell Crabs on Arugula and Orange Salad and Chestnut-Filled Calamari, the simply conceived but deeply flavorful dishes are uniformly exciting. Though the recipes are easy enough to prepare, their success for the home cook will depend largely on ingredient freshness—there's no hiding place in these dishes for less than the best. Cooks should also be aware that some of the ingredients called for--imperial shrimp, for example--are either unavailable here or, like John Dory Fillets, hard to come by. (In some, but not all cases, substitutions have been suggested.)
Apart from "entrees," the book offers a tempting array of soups, pastas, and vegetable recipes such as Asparagus and Parmigiano Custard, Penette with Sea Scallops and Broccoli Florets, and Porcini Mushroom and Onion Soup. A small dessert chapter yields delicious finales like Venetian Fried Cream and Sweet Focaccia with Figs, plus an enticing selection of cookie formulas. The author also provides a brief tour of Venice, plus a discussion of its unique "flavors." Also helpful is seafood buying instruction, which includes the insight that smaller fish are more delicate and sweeter tasting than larger specimens. The book is illustrated with color photos. --Arthur Boehm
From Publishers Weekly
According to Martin, Venetians have "famously adventurous taste buds." This taste for the exotic is due in part to the city's position at a crossroads of sorts, where East meets West. The ingredients themselves may not necessarily be exotic to Americans (many recipes feature familiar vegetables like radicchio and artichokes), but the combinations do surprise, such as the Guanciale-Wrapped Grouper with Broccoli and Thyme Souffle, or the Shrimp, Artichoke, and Scamorza Cheese "Pot Pie." However, much of the book's charm lies in the simplicity of the recipes, which generally don't demand complicated techniques. Martin, whose parents founded the 25-year-old Osteria da Fiore, sums up these dishes when he notes that Venetian cuisine is "humble and ambitious, rustic and refined, earthy and exquisite." Naturally heavy on fish-Martin is particularly fond of the popular Venetian fish red mullet as well as sea bass, shrimp and clams-the book offers an array of antipasti, primi piatti, zuppe and secondi piatti that should please chefs with a propensity for Italian fish dishes. Winning recipes include Baby Artichokes with Oranges and Parmigiano Shavings, Spaghetti with Clams, Rolled Red Mullet with Radicchio and Spinach, and Seared Tuna Slices with Rosemary. Although not every recipe has an accompanying photo, most do. And a section with tips on buying, storing, cleaning, scaling, filleting and cooking fish-along with basic recipes for fish broth and polenta and sidebars explaining Venetian staple ingredients-will encourage neophytes.
Copyright 2003 Reed Business Information, Inc.
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