Customer Reviews

Denso 234-4209 Universal Oxygen Sensor (Air and Fuel Ratio Sensor)

5 star:		(28)
4 star:		(5)
3 star:		(2)
2 star:		(1)
1 star:		(3)

 

 

After removing the original sensor that had failed, I installed this one, using the original wiring/plug. The wiring for the original one seemed a little short, so I installed this one with 1" more cable - you can't do that with the OEM replacement.

I chose the Denso over other brands, because that is what the original was. The sensor body is identical to what was removed.

This was a fraction of the cost of a ready-to-install sensor, but it was well worth the effort to do a little work.

The only criticism is that the shrink-tubing provided to seal the splices seemed to take longer than I expected to shrink down. I used a Bic lighter, as I have done with other shrink tubing. It just seems like it took a long time to tighten up.

It's been in a month now, and seems to be working just fine.

A note when measuring to cut the original wiring: be sure to mark where all of the ties and clips are, where the harness is attached along its length. If you put the splices where the wiring should be bending, or at a clip, it may not bend smoothly.

I bought this universal oxygen sensor to replace the rear one that was mounted on the catalytic converter on my 2000 Honda Civic Si. I bought the universal to save about $70 or so over the "exact fit" replacement. But looking back on it now, I wish I had just spent the extra money for the "exact fit" version. To use this universal unit, you must reuse the electrical connector (leaving a length of wire attached) from you old sensor. It comes with crimp connectors so that you can splice the wires together, but I didn't have a wire crimping tool, so I soldered the wires together with a 25 watt iron utilizing the solder holes found on the crimping connectors. Everything appeared to look good, but after installation the new sensor was reporting a constant 1.28 volts and my car's computer threw a code P0138 (too high a voltage). I'm ASSUMING that the heat from my soldering job caused a short somewhere in the sensor itself or in the old connector. Of course I cannot return the sensor back to Amazon and I needed my car now, so I purchased an "exact fit" Bosch unit, from my local auto parts store, and it works perfectly.
Based from my experience and money and time lost, my caveat if you buy one of these is to crimp (as instructed) and don't solder the wires together. Or buy the "exact fit" unit for the extra $70 or so. I did install another Denso oxygen sensor, an "exact fit" (no crimping) unit to replace the front unit, and that one works fine. Also, the Bosch sensor seems to perform well too even though it does not look exactly like the Denso (Honda OEM) part it replaced.

I still have yet to find a cheaper place to buy a 4-wire denso O2 sensor than here at Amazon. I never thought I'd be buying car parts on here, but if they want to sell it, I'm happy to buy it.

I replaced my Celicas sensor with this universal one in about 15 minutes using a socket I already had. The check engine light I had previously has disappeared & my fuel economy slightly improved. This is the same brand that most japanese manufacturers use as OEM equipment, such as Mazda, Toyota, Nissan. I've used Bosch universals in the past & this one is equivalent, but less expensive than the Bosch 4-wire counterparts.

This was an original Denso that I ghad to splice it and connected the original connectors to it. It was very easy and afetr 2 weeks now, no problem at all.

While this appears to be a decent quality part and comes with good directions, Amazon's compatibility checker is wrong. This item is NOT compatible with a 2001 Toyota Camry with the V6 - the Amazon checker indicates that it is. It turns out that my vehicle requires a "wideband" heated oxygen sensor, not the kind shown here. It would be safe to assume that any other Toyota vehicle with the 1MZ-FE engine would also not be compatible with this part.

Great little product and had very little problems. Was able to jack the vehicle up and simply cut the old oxygen sensor off and put this one in. The only thing I wasn't too crazy about was trying to manage all the heat shrink tubing. Instead of that, Radio Shack has some translucent yellow 22-26 gauge butt splices that worked great. A couple of things though:
Gently twist the ends of the butt splices onto each end of the stripped wire BEFORE you are ready to crimp it down. Sometimes the little hairs from the wire prevent you from getting one end on, after you have already secured the other end. If you twist them in advance before crimping, it will smooth out the end ends of the wire so that when you're ready to make the final crimps, they slip right over the wire.

Other than that, I saved a ton of money. Great product. This was for Bank 2 Sensor 2.

This link might also help:

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I bought this product last week it works great! I wish I would have paid the few extra dollars to get the direct fit ones. All in all the the directions were great. I would recommend buying the O2 socket and tread chaser that is offered when you buy this item, both cost me about $25.00 at the local auto parts store. I would recommend this item to anyone who wants to save alot of money. Oh and get a can of PB lube to get the old ones out.

My '00 Toyota Solara (V6 engine) had a P0135 check engine code on. I use this to replace the defected OE Denso oxygen sensor (Bank 1, Sensor 1). The instruction is clear so that I can wire it without any problem. It works just great!

Universal Oxygen Sensor went in easy and worked great! Installed on a 1999 Tracker with California Senors, saved $250. over factor sensor.

This oxygen sensor was a 'universal' type which means you must reuse your old connector. The problem with my application, my 99 Prizm was originally equipped with a sensor welded onto a metal mounting plate. I did not take it off to look at it before hand or else I would have seen that the 'universal' screw in sensor would not work. I returned it easily and got a Bosch O.E. type which does screw into it's mount so if I ever need to replace it again the universal type would work.