Customer Reviews

Desire & Ice: A Search for Perspective Atop Denali

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While many mountaineering books delve into wicked storms and horrible pain and suffering, few offer a glimpse of what it would be like to actually don crampons, grab an ice axe, and go for the summit. That's where Dave Brill's account excells.

From the moment he dons his brand-new climbing togs and checks himself out in a full-length mirror, I was rest-stepping and pressure-breathing right along with him on his triumphant path to the summit of Denali. This is a terrific book, well and carefully written. It offers insight, humor and adventure--all conveyed in refreshingly self-depricating style.

Brill proves you don't have to be a hero to get to the summit. Rather, you have to have vision, courage, commitment, luck, and most of all, the gumption to go for it. If you've ever wondered what it feels like, tastes like, smells like and looks like to take on a serious mountain, this is the book for you.

I know Brill. We were on Denali together. He is a better writer than climber, but is no slouch in either area. Desire and Ice captures the essence of ordinary guys trying to stretch and do extraordinary things. For all those wannabes who dream of getting to the top of McKinley, Brill's well written and highly readable book gives hope and encouragement. Train hard, get your skills and techniques down, work as a team, and take care of yourself and your hiking buddies. That's important stuff and Brill devotes his early chapters to how he got ready for the Big Mountain. Yes, on Denali the challenges are many - crevases, sub-zero temperatures, tent-fever, biting winds and independent personalities. You have to deal with all of them. But your greatest challenge is alway found in your own mind ... and your attitude toward what each day brings. Brill captures it all. It was wonderful to stand on North America's highest point with David Brill. And, he is right on about our team. I too would be pleased and proud to climb with Kent and Gary and Joe all the rest of the those "ordinary guys" again. But next time, Clay gets to the top with us.

David Brill has written an excellent book about a journey of discovery. It's a great read, no matter what you're fitness level or interest in climbing or the outdoors. Brill's fluid style, at times witty and funny, transports the reader from the couch to the glaciers of Denali in engaging, believable terms. Brill's prose goes well beyond the typical gear and macho you might find in other books about climbing. You'll come away with insight, awe, and incredible satisfaction. Brill is a terrific writer. This book, in my opinion, is better than the best selling "Into Thin Air," about a fatal Everest climb a few years ago. Brill's "Desire and Ice" is much more approachable, because Denali, in climbing circles, is an "everyman's mountain." Difficult and deadly, yes, but more accessible. I am not a mountaineer, but still enjoyed this book thoroughly. I would never give a first, let alone second, thought to such a journey myself, but now, I don't have to, having lived through it with this great book. I'm going to look for other books by this guy. He's simply a great writer.

I don't use the term "masterpiece" lightly. Yes, in the same league as Into Thin Air, but a COMPLETELY different book. This book will make the couch-sitter-mountaineers steer clear of the hills. It will make the true adventures start sorting gear. Brill does not pull any punches and his dedication to getting the "details" correct is to be commended. Throughout the book, he answers questions so many are afraid to ask, or simply normally don't think about (such as what it's like to relieve oneself in the sub-arctic). Every word is relevant, and when Brill does repeat himself, it is necessary and within the context of the moment. An absolute MUST HAVE for any climber, mountaineer or adventurer! HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!

Desire and Ice
David Brill 246p + glossary & Index

David Brill is one of the many male climbers who are in their forties and want to have one last goal before physically retiring, the highest pint of the US and North America and therefore one of the "7 summits": Denali.

This is his account of the decisions leading up to that climb and a detailed description of it. David joins a guided climb of RMI, one of the few allowed guiding companies (Denali is monopolized, no foreigners are allowed to guide) and enters a team of people with similar age and background. Kent, one of the guides, is the youngest being 38 years old.

What follows is a nicely and humorously written account of their climb. He describes the problems with altitude, teamwork, phyical difficulties and more. Brill, who works for the Nat Geo society has a easy way of writing and a good sense of humor and relativation, which makes the book a joy to read.

First I though this was going to be like the 1996 disaster on Everest, where everybody who climbed or was near that mountain at that time wrote a book about it. Nowadays everybody with a PC and a pair of crampons is a writer and too many people write 'amazing accounts' of every mountain on earth.

But Brill's book offers a unique insight into a guided group on Denali. This book will convince some people to go with a group like this with experienced (not always on Denali though!) guides. But just as many people will decide to go without one of the guided companies, who are clearly in it for the money as is painfully clear during the events at high camp where 2 RMI groups meet.

In all a good read for people wanting to climb Denali, but I would urge anyone to climb some other serious mountains first before taking on the 'The High One". This should not be your first of the "7summits" and certainly not be your first glacier trip... In fact my opinion is that if you need guiding on Denali, you first should consider carefully if you are ready to climb it. But this book will teach the observing reader a lot about this consideration.

David Brill has recorded exactly how the average person should prepare for the climb and what to expect during it. This is not a unique adventure story. Each year well over a thousand people do exactly what is described in this book. Brill was relatively fit, but inexperienced, but he got himself properly outfittited and prepared to try to conquer the mountain.

His route up the mountain also was not unusual, he chose the West Buttress which is the super highway for guided trips and more than 80% of all climber use it. Even his experiences are not unusual, he takes an average amount of punishment and privations.

All in all, he describes exactly what an average experience would be for a person who sets a goal of summiting McKinley. Of course, this is not an average walk in the park. And Brill makes it painfully obvious that 50% of all climbers fail to make the peak. I think he did a masterful job of keeping their results a secret, right to the end. Until the last, I was just as hopeful and unsure as the climbers probably were. I definitely felt he brought be along on his ordeal (and an average climb is an ordeal) and earned my respect, but I am still very happy to remain below 7500 feet. If you are thinking about doing a guided ascent of the West Buttress, get this book.

In the story of his challenge of Denali, David Brill makes his experience come alive for the reader. This is not a tale that one just reads "ho-hum" and then puts back on the shelf, you LIVE it with him! Brill has the succinct author's talent to bring his life's experiences, and the telling of them, alive in all of his books. Also, this story will encourage anyone to take their personal dreams to fruition in their own lives. Whether you are an outdoor aficionado or not, this book is definitely a worthwhile read.