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*Princess Cut*
I was looking for a princess cut diamond (the square one) and unfortunately this book mostly focuses on rounds. That's important insofar as the acceptable table and depth proportions are slightly different for princess cuts (FYI-get below 80%, around 70% is even better). Don't disregard the dimensions! At first I only judged size by carat weight, but a lot of that weight can sit below the diamond-hence you want a lower depth percentage. For example, a 2.0 carat princess cut that's 7.11 x 7.14 will look bigger than a 2.30 carat that's 6.69 x 7.30. With princess cuts, you also want to be as square as possible-anything with a length to width ratio bigger than 1.04 starts looking rectangular.
Another thing to keep in mind is the difference in Gemological Certificates. I found out early that an EGL G SI1 is just not the same as a GIA G SI1. Make sure you're comparing apples to apples here. There should never be a $1000 difference in price for the same cut, color and clarity. I found GIA much more consistent and rigid than EGL and eventually just ruled out the EGL certified diamonds. Try it yourself: ask to see the same size, color and clarity in GIA and EGL, 9 times out of 10 the GIA is more colorless and has fewer inclusions.
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Newman's book is loaded with color pictures and info that you won't find on the Internet. For example:
1. Lots of close-up photos of diamonds with different clarity grades to help you learn to judge clarity yourself
2. Microscope photos of diamond inclusions.
3. Close-up photos of diamonds with a variety of cutting defects as well as examples of well-cut round and non-round diamonds. These pictures are far more helpful than diagrams I've seen on the Internet.
4. Diamonds of different colors and color-grades
5. Pictures showing how to detect diamond imitations along with tests for spotting fakes
6. Close-up photos of fracture-filled and laser-drilled diamonds and good info about diamond treatments
7. A wide variety of settings and ring styles from basic solitaire rings to unusual designer styles
Thanks to Newman's book, I was able to understand what I was looking at when jewelers showed me diamonds through their microscopes. And contrary to what one reader wrote, Newman doesn't make it sound like every jeweler is out to cheat you. She just helps you know when you've found a good jeweler and a good diamond. This book is worth far more than it costs. Don't go diamond shopping without it.
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