Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me: A Unique Guide to over 30,000 Products, Plus the Latest Skin-Care Research (Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me, 5th ed) [Paperback]

Paula Begoun (Author)

Book Description

Publication Date: November 30, 2000 | Series: Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me, 5th ed

Paula Begoun's mission is to educate women on the facts that the $45 billion cosmetics industry doesn't want people to know. In her makeup and skincare bible, she deciphers ingredient lists, translates cosmetics-counter beauty babble, and evaluates the worth of virtually every product on the market. This completely revised and expanded edition includes more than 75 new product lines. "Her straight talk about what cosmetics can and can't do has penetrated the blare of magazine and advertising hype." - San Francisco Chronicle; "Paula is nationally recognized as an authority on the subject of cosmetics. . . . She takes the cosmetics companies to task." - Miami Herald.

Editorial Reviews

Amazon.com Review

Women spend an extraordinary amount of money on cosmetics--$45 billion a year in the U.S. alone. Now in its fourth edition, Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me strikes fear in cosmetics-counter consultants everywhere. First off, Begoun has deconstructed ingredient lists. Ever wonder what methylparaben, propylparaben, and butylparaben are doing in your mascara? And what is diazolidinyl urea? All four are potential irritants, and the latter is a preservative that can release formaldehyde, a class A carcinogen. Buyer beware.

Begoun also lists which companies are cruelty-free and which continue to conduct animal testing. The majority of the book--and that's nearly 800 pages--is devoted to reviews of thousands of cosmetics, from cleansers, foundations, alpha-hydroxy acids, and moisturizers to lip liners, eye shadows, and concealers, all of which Begoun has personally tested. (There are no hair care products listed, as that warrants another book entirely: Don't Go Shopping for Hair Care Products Without Me.)

She's perfectly frank and tells it like it is. (On Revlon's ColorStay Makeup: "goes far beyond the claim of 'It won't come off on him.' It won't come off when you want it to.") You'll learn how to tell when you're being boondoggled by a salesperson, what's overpriced and overhyped, as well as what's overlooked. More than 200 brands are included, along with a helpful summary at the end that lists the best products for each cosmetic category. It should be noted that not only is Begoun a fine consumer advocate, she's also a self-esteem advocate: she mentions time and again that even the best cosmetics won't necessarily improve your life, and that's a point well taken. --This text refers to an out of print or unavailable edition of this title.

About the Author

Paula Begoun has been reporting on the beauty industry for more than 25 years. Her unique angle on the cosmetics industry has earned her the nickname of "Cosmetics Cop". She is an internationally-recognised authority as a consumer advocate for the beauty industry, and is called on regularly by reporters and producers from television, magazines, and radio. Paula has appeared on hundreds of US talk shows including Oprah, 20/20, Dateline NBC, The View, the Today Show, CBS This Morning, and Good Morning America. Paula Begoun is recognised by women all over the world as the most reliable source for answers to all of their beauty-related questions. --This text refers to an out of print or unavailable edition of this title.

Product Details

• Paperback: 1000 pages
• Publisher: Beginning Pr; 5th edition (November 30, 2000)
• Language: English
• ISBN-10: 1877988286
• ISBN-13: 978-1877988288
• Product Dimensions: 9 x 6 x 2.2 inches
• Shipping Weight: 2.2 pounds
• Average Customer Review: 3.7 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (391 customer reviews)
• Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #1,310,321 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

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Most Helpful Customer Reviews

488 of 509 people found the following review helpful

5.0 out of 5 stars Simply the best March 30, 2003

By Jennifer L. Metcalf

Format:Paperback

I am amazed at some of the reviews which demonstrate that some alleged readers didn't read the book very carefully at all. Paula clearly admits that the reviews in her book are her opinions. However, I've been reading her books for over a decade, and her opinions are based on solid, thorough, scientific research NOT funded by anyone other than herself. I don't know of another book that can make that claim. She mixes her opinions with facts that few others dare because she has nothing to lose in the process. When she tells the truth, we all benefit. Articles in women's magazines stand to lose an enormous amount of advertising revenue if any editorials threaten to blow Estee Lauder, Lancome, Clinique, Maybelline, or any cosmetics company that spends literally millions of dollars in ads off their solid gold pedestals. Paula also states quite clearly that if a certain regime or product works for the consumer, then the consumer should stick with it.

However, for the rest of us who need guidance in choosing what is best for our skin and make-up routines, this book is a godsend. She rates products on the ingredients they contain, their effect on the skin, and how well they work. She never claims that all products purchased in a drugstore are as good as those purchased at expensive prices in department stores. She freely acknowledges some poor products that are inexpensive do exist. And she also acknowledges that some poor products which are expensive also exist. In other words, the price of the cosmetic has nothing to do with its effectiveness, safety, or application.

What this book really does is give facts to help the consumer separate fact from fiction. One time when I was shopping for a toner, the cosmetics woman at the department store told me that the alcohol contained in her product was "cosmetic" alcohol - not the alcohol that would dry the skin. Sounded good to me....until I thought about it. Paula cuts through the sales talk to which too many of us have ignorantly submitted and taken as gospel.

The book breaks through the "natural" myth, as well. Of course, we all want as natural as products as possible. What the natural companies don't often tell us, however, is that besides all those wonderful-sounding names are some very basic (harmless) chemicals that actually perform the task of the product. I personally like Aveda's hair products, but it isn't the natural products that are cleaning my hair - it's the chemicals. Paula helps us differentiate between what chemicals are harmful and which ones are beneficial. It often has little to do with brand name. Some products in a certain line are highly rated, and some are not recommended.

The piece of advice that I garnered from the book, for which I shall forever be indebted, is the use of BHA (beta hydroxy acid) on my face. It has given my skin a brand-new look and made my skin healthier and better-looking than when I was a teenager back in the 1980s! I'd tried different ways of exfoliating but her recommendations of BHA for skin that is blemish prone and of the exact percentage (1% for me) was probably the best skin care advice I've ever received. I was nearly ready for a (completely unnecessary!) chemical peel costing an obscene amount of money and committing unknown damage to my skin when I learned about BHAs from Paula's book.

It's true that Paula does have a line of both cosmetics and make-up. However, for anyone who's read her books, she does not push them at all. She speaks generally about ingredients and about what to avoid and what to seek. Her products are simply listed with the other 200+ brands! I do admit that I love her products because I know I can count on them not to contain perfumes, dyes, and other extraneous items that are used to sell most cosmetics. As someone with extremely sensitive skin, her skin care products are magnificent.

I think the biggest boon to Paula's credibility is that she is not immune to changing her mind or advice, based on new research. She demonstrates a true ability to learn and grow with the rest of us. Too many "beauty" books contain a lot of fluff and little substance to really help the reader. This book contains a lot of raw facts and arms the reader with an arsenal of knowledge to help her (or him!) make the best choices she can for herself. Whether or not many people will admit it, a lot of cosmetics and skin care companies have been forced to revise their products in our favor due to the information contained in Paula's books. We owe her a lot.

655 of 689 people found the following review helpful

2.0 out of 5 stars Trying to be as thorough as possible in this review July 7, 2006

By Ashley Anderson

Format:Paperback

I'll try to be as thorough as I possibly can in this review.

I'm a pretty big fan of Paula although I don't agree with *everything* she has to say. Being in the skin-care industry myself (I am a bio-chemist) I feel as if I am a little more aware than the average consumer. Some of her research seems dead-on while some seems a little off-base. I'll explain:

Natural ingredients. I happen to be a huge fan of natural ingredients yet Paula, I feel, is way to harsh on companies or products who use such ingredients. As an example, she seems to be a huge fan of mineral oils and petroleum (both biproducts of the oil industry) while I am not. I just don't understand why she uses mineral oil and petroleum as her main moisturizes and praises any formulation that uses them as their main moisturizers. The molecules are simply too large to thoroughly absorb into the pores. They just sit there on the skin and look greasy. On the other hand, plant based oils are lighter in texture, are from natural sources, and are loaded with vitamins. Mineral oil just sits on your skin and clogs the pores.

Essential Oils. When used in moderation (preferably in concentrations of %0.25 - %1) essential oils can work wonders on the skin and, I feel, are much safer to use than their chemical counterparts. Tea tree essential oil, for example, is one of the few things I can use that zaps my blemishes. On the other hand, Paula seems to be a rabid fan of BHA. Although effective, it is just too harsh for most people. She seems to really bash anyone who uses essential oils in their products. These are basically natural plant extracts that have several benefits for the skin and are meant to be dilluted and used only in small amounts. Sure there are some companies that overdo it (I won't name names though I can think of one in particular) but when used in the right amounts, essential oils can have awesome and natural benefits for the body.

Fragrances. Though I totally agree with Paula in that fragrances should never be used on the face or eye area, fragrances are a nice additive in "fun products" like bath oils or shower gels. Again, they are used in such low concentrations (%0.50 - %3) that only those with extremely sensitive skin should avoid fragranced products.

Product Reviews. I understand why she did not review her own products in her book (it seems like some of the other reviews in this section have a problem with this). But it would make no sense if she did rate her own products. If she gave one of her own products a low rating then we would just think "well fix it, silly." lol On the other hand, I do think some of her reviews of other companies were completely unfair. Who cares if you don't like shiny eye-shadows or fragranced items- those are not "scientific no-nos" but personal opinion.

Pricing. This is something I agree with Paula on more than I disagree. If you are paying more than $35-$50 on a facial cream, chances are, you are getting ripped off. Remember, in order for the emulsion process to work, water makes up approximately 70% of the total formula. No matter what else is in it, these companies that charge outrages prices (like $250 for 1 fl oz. of facial lotion) are out of their gourd and are really taking advantage of the consumer. I recently purchased a facial serum for $129. The main ingredients were water and vitamin E- Something I could have made myself for $2 if I had bought the ingredients myself at a health store. So on that end, to an extent, somethings can be way overpriced so I have to give Paula kudos on exposing that one (although expensive items don't necessarily mean overpriced). I usually stick to the "$35- $50 rule of thumb." If it's over $50, chances are, you're getting ripped off.

Hope this helps some people. This book was pretty much a hit or miss with me.

211 of 224 people found the following review helpful

2.0 out of 5 stars A great idea that, sadly, missed the mark December 1, 2009

By Chandler #1 HALL OF FAMETOP 10 REVIEWERVINE™ VOICE

Format:Paperback

I used to work selling cosmetic ingredients. Meaning that I didn't work for any particular company, but in selling ingredients via a broker to cosmetic chemists and scientists of major cosmetic corporations. Because of this, I learned a wealth of information that I am not sure the author may have gained, although I do believe she has good intentions.

The major discrepency I would point out at is that petroleum based products are her go-to moisturizer. Petroleum jelly and petro based ingredients are very cheap for companies to use so it's been highly popular. However, it's been banned for use in cosmetics or skin care ingredients in Europe because it's been shown to often carry carcinogens. It does, after all, come from the ground...It is actually currently going through FDA retesting right now in the United States because of this. (Google "petrolatum cosmetic toxin data". It takes waaaay longer to ban something in the US than other countries if it's been shown to cause some problems.) Because of this, any company I sold ingredients to that was big enough to be a world-wide company would not order any petroleum based ingredients because they are banned as toxic overseas already and are expected to be here in the next few years. Yes, petroleum jelly...what people put on their babies in the United States is banned as a skin ingredient elsewhere and expected to be banned here if tests go as expected.

She has her own cosmetics line that uses many controversial, but very cheap ingredients. That bothers me. For example, she is against all-natural and organic ingredients and says so clearly. However, these have been shown in so many cases to not only work better, but be healthier...yet, they are far more expensive for a company to use in manufacturing. In looking at her own cosmetics line, she certainly doesn't seem to go for the most proven yet more costly and natural ingredients...they are, instead, quite basic and inexpensive...

I am not saying this is profit-driven. I am saying that cosmetic scientists have much to say about it.

There are many things the basic consumer is not aware of. For example, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate and Sodium Laureth Sulfate are some of the worst cleaning agents you can use in your hair, are highly stripping, and are also used in industrial floor cleaners. Yet in the United States, we equate "foaming" with "clean" and these are high foaming agents. They are also not used in Europe where there is more consumer knowledge about cosmetics and ingredients. Marketing-wise and price-wise, shampoo companies get more profit from using these. However, if you locate a shampoo that is sulfate and paraben free (They are getting far easier to find now as the consumers in the US become more smart on what they are using on their bodies) your hair will SHINE. If you dye your hair and avoid these ingredients, your color stays in twice as long, but if you go to a hotel and use a cheap shampoo with these in it, you'll see a great deal of the color wash out that day. It's that stripping of your hair's natural moisturizers as well as color. I have never had a hairdresser not commont on how incredibly healthy my hair is since I learned this. And I dye it which they can't believe because that SHOULD be stripping...but my hair gets no SLS products so it's strong and shiny. Although she is a hater on natural ingredients, science says otherwise.

Now let's cut to acne products. If you see commercials like Proactive you'd assume you should pay more for a name. In reality, all over the counter acne products are the exact same thing (one of 2 products)...either up to 2% Salycilic Acid or up to 10% Benzoyl Peroxide plus other inert ingredients. They both work on acne differently but, by law, over the counter products can only contain that certain amount of either ingredient. Some products, like Proactive actually have LESS of the active ingredient than generic brands however! (you are paying for the marketing, not a better product) So forget the name, turn the bottle over and look at the ingredients...If 10% Benzoyl Peroxide works better on your skin than Salycilic Acid, Use the cheapest product with it. Proactive wash only has 2.5% and all other ingredients in it are inert (you will see 2.5% benzoyl peroxide listed as the only active ingredient on the back of the bottle) so you are getting less but paying far more, for example. On the other hand if Salycilic Acid works better on your skin, use a product with 2% of that. Forget the name. But you aren't going to get any difference in strength with a different product up to a certain amount. It's illegal for an over the counter med to contain any more than this. And there are only 2 primary ways to fight acne in over the counter meds (unless you go all natural) and that's it. The other ingredients are inert. How do they both work? Benzoyl peroxide knocks off the top layer of skin cells to open pores, Salycilic acid is actually chemically similar to aspirin (which is why you can put crushed aspirin with water on a zit in a pinch and get good results) and SA will not only slough off the dead skin cells which clog pores as well, but it will also fight the bacteria within the breakout and also prevent clogging of the pore in the future by helping to reduce the pore size. Because of this, for most people, 2% salycilic acid is a better acne medication...because it does more. But everyone is different. If your skin works best with Benzoyl P, just find a cheap brand with 10% Benzoyl P in it instead. Just remember to read the label...in over the counter products 10% Benzoyl Peroxide is the most it can contain by law or 2% salycilic acid. Paying for water and other fillers , or a product with only 2.5% Benzoyl Peroxide is getting less but paying more for a company's ads.

And guess what? Does a product you use tingle? Cosmetic companies put things that tingle in the product that are inert to make you feel like they are working. Americans equate tingling or burning with "it must be doing something".

You don't need to buy expensive tanners at the tanning salon. Buy a regular brand...Same thing.

But do not buy No Ad sunscreen...this is where you don't want to go generic. Those ARE worse and watery and won't stay on.

Look, it's a profit driven industry and these are just some examples. Unfortunately, I feel this book is also profit driven in pushing the cheapest ingredients that are also used in the cosmetics that the author sells even though some of what she pushes the hardest have actually been banned in other countries due to skin problems and health problems and are expected to be banned here as well in spite of the alternatives being more expensive for cosmetic manufacturers--which is why they are lobbying against it.

She mentions alcohol being drying and to avoid it--which it is in hair care products such as mousse BUT there are ingredients in the best skin care lines or hair care products that contain the name "alcohol" that are good ingredients such as stearyl alcohol or benzyl alcohol which are fatty alcohols. In fact, stearyl alcohol acts as a thickener and is the exact opposite of drying...so much so that it's used commercially in swimming pool liners to PREVENT the evaporation of water! (I kid you not) Benzyl alcohol is an all-natural ingredient and is derived from plants and is commonly found in fruits and teas and found to be beneficial as a natural bacteria reducer and is very good for your skin. You will find it in essential oils such as hyacinth, and ylang-ylang.

The idea of the book is a good one and she does have some useful information in it...she just missed the mark according to cosmetic scientists in my own discussions with them. And I have worked with the best and the brightest.