The Dressmaker's Handbook of Couture Sewing Techniques: Essential Step-by-Step Techniques for Professional Results [Hardcover-spiral]

Lynda Maynard (Author)

Book Description

Publication Date: December 21, 2010

Packed with professional techniques and tips, The Dressmaker’s Handbook of Couture Sewing Techniques takes the mystery out of the sewing and fi nishing techniques that many dressmakers assume are either extremely diffi cult or are only for professional fashion designers.

Fashion designer and expert sewist Lynda Maynard tackles each professional technique with clear instructions in simple step-by-step stages. Once these skills are understood, sewists will embrace their dressmaking projects with more confidence and the ability to create chic, refined looks. The Dressmaker’s Handbook of Couture Sewing Techniques unlocks the door to stunning results with better shaping, simpler construction methods, and professional finishing touches. Lynda also explains several seemingly difficult “secrets,” from making bindings and finishing for hems, armholes, and necklines to underpinnings and structuring techniques. Plus, she teaches how to master finishing touches from textured stitches to couching and appliqué. A complete guide to the fabrics suited to each technique and inspirational fashion photography are also included.

Editorial Reviews

Review

“I strongly recommend this book for anyone trying to wrap their mind around fitting and sewing techniques. The couture techniques detailed in this book can easily be applied to many different style garments.” - Debbie Colgrove, About.com Guide

About the Author

Lynda Maynard has been designing and sewing clothes much of her life. She has a B.A. in textiles and clothing from San Jose State University and is an adjunct professor in the fashion design departments of two community colleges and a private design school in the San Francisco Bay area. She also has a private clientele challenging her to develop innovative techniques to create a superior
product. She is known in the industry as a fit specialist and is the author of the audio book De-Mystifying Fit.

Product Details

• Hardcover-spiral: 144 pages
• Publisher: Interweave Press; Spi edition (December 21, 2010)
• Language: English
• ISBN-10: 1596682477
• ISBN-13: 978-1596682474
• Product Dimensions: 8.5 x 0.8 x 9 inches
• Shipping Weight: 2 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
• Average Customer Review: 4.5 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (42 customer reviews)
• Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #24,849 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
  • #35 in Books > Crafts, Hobbies & Home > Crafts & Hobbies > Needlecrafts & Textile Crafts > Sewing
  • #37 in Books > Crafts, Hobbies & Home > Crafts & Hobbies > Needlecrafts & Textile Crafts > Fashion

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Most Helpful Customer Reviews

243 of 245 people found the following review helpful

4.0 out of 5 stars Good collection of selected couture sewing techniques December 7, 2010

By Marina Von Koenig

Format:Hardcover-spiral|Amazon Verified Purchase

I bought this book three month before its release without knowing who the author was or what the contents were. I am an Haute Couture aficionado and when I saw the magic word 'Couture' I immediately added it to my shopping cart.

The author, Lynda Maynard, has a BA in textiles and clothing from San Jose State University and is an adjunct professor in the fashion design departments of two community colleges and a private design school in the San Francisco Bay area. Apparently she is also an author of the CD-book De-Mystifying Fit. Nevertheless, my experience with instruction books like this is that it's not about all the titles and affiliations with prestigious organizations but about the commitment of the author to her subject.

So, here you have a very well illustrated and designed handbook for ESSENTIAL couture techniques, not more not less.

It starts with a Couture Technique Selector, which is a thumb preview of exactly thirty-nine couture techniques. These are divided into Binding and Finishes, Design Details: On Show, and Design Details: Concealed.

Each technique is accompanied by a number of illustrations and steps. The author also includes so-called Couture Secrets and tips on materials, pressing, construction and style. With my rather patchy knowledge of couture techniques I do see that a lot of information that I have seen scattered across different books dedicated to Couture has been very nicely compiled and presented under individual techniques.

For example, in a section on Banding V-Neck on Woven Fabric, Ms Maynard says: "Silk organza is an indispensable item in the couturier's supply arsenal.... Use it to underline and interface garment sections, stabilize curves and angles, tape straight edges, and steady wiggly fabrics for specific procedures."

In Style Suggestion she adds: "This technique works well on bateau necklines also, since each shoulder seam join functions as a V. try using a contrasting fabric or color, or experiment with bias stripes for added dash."

The book also includes a section on "all the essential equipment for the couture sewer", including a sewing machine and a serger ( I thought a serger is a no-no in couture sewing?). It goes on to tools like scissors, pins, patternmaking tools and, finally, pressing equipment. However, nowhere in the book does the author explain how or where to use many of these tools. Read a chapter on Pressing in Roberta Carr's "Couture: The Art of Fine Sewing' - it is much better.

A section on underlinings/ backings is interesting. I thought, finally, more than a page on underlinings, but, unfortunately the technique of applying underlining is just half a page. To compensate this, the author gives eight pages with images comparing several combinations of backed and unbacked fabrics, explaining the effect the backing/ underlining has on the fashion fabric. I could not see much difference on images, but the text part was quite informative

Directory of Luxury Fabrics and Trims includes an incomplete selection of fabrics. For example, under lining Maynard lists only Silk Crepe de Chine and Acetate Satin. I didn't know Acetate Satin was a luxury fabric, and waht about silk charmeuse or china silk? I read all the time how Chanel skirts are lined with silk charmeuse. To give you my opinion on Fabrics & Trims section, I think you are much better served with Claire Shaeffer's Fabric Sewing Guide

Maynard's book dedicates its final pages to another dozen of Essential Couture Techniques (yet again? what about Couture Techniques part that takes up most of the book). Why all these techniques ended up on final few pages is a mystery to me. Nevertheless they are worth learning.

Finally, the instructions for the techniques are not always clear and require background knowledge of garment construction to be able to guess the correct process. I think the author needs to revise the instructions making them more precise.

I know, I have criticized several sections in the book, but I have to say that most of the main part - those 39, and 12 more techniques hidden toward the end of the book - is really interesting. While this book is not a substitute for Couture Sewing Techniques by Claire Schaeffer (which covers couture construction process from start to finish), it is a great collection of selected techniques. It's a great addition to my library and I will start applying these techniques starting with the next projects. Read more ›

52 of 53 people found the following review helpful

4.0 out of 5 stars a few new interesting techniques December 20, 2010

By engk916 VINE™ VOICE

Format:Hardcover-spiral

like another reviewer mentioned, this book is a nice supplement to the claire schaeffer books, not a replacement. there are a few new techniques i did not know about, like adding a hem 'bubble' (folded - not stitched - piece of silk organza) to add subtle body to a sheer hem. piping, cording and bias-bound edges are other techniques i've seen elsewhere. however, one really nice feature of this book are the many photos of fairly current couture garments using the techniques described, which i've rarely seen in any sewing book. this book also shows pictures of garments that have and do not have structural reinforcement like interlining so the reader can see how these subtle couture techniques really do add that subtle boost that are the hallmarks of quality workmanship. there are also examples of beautifully executed slant welt pockets by calvin klein, and gorgeous floating chiffon hems (subtly structured with silk organza).

44 of 46 people found the following review helpful

4.0 out of 5 stars Not haute couture; couture-ish January 11, 2011

By frumwannabe

Format:Hardcover-spiral

I learned some new techniques. However I found this to be more of a high-end ready-to-wear sewing book than one of the methods used in a couture salon.

There is a lot of sewing machine construction used in the book. Couture clothing is, or used to be, sewn mostly by hand.

Claire B. Shaeffer's "Couture Sewing Techniques" is by far the superior book. It has more information in it. More importantly, there are photos of the inside construction of some garments. That's what we need to see in order to apply these ideas to garments of our own. Claire Shaeffer owns a collection of vintage Chanel couture (a view and description of the lining in a suit is shown in "Couture Sewing Techniques"). I hope she is going to share photographs of these pieces with her readers along with glimpses of the inner construction.

40 of 43 people found the following review helpful

3.0 out of 5 stars Not couture sewing February 26, 2011

By Woman of 1,000 Hobbies

Format:Hardcover-spiral|Amazon Verified Purchase

This book does not demonstrate couture sewing techniques. They're more a combination of solid home-sewing and ready-to-wear sewing techniques. I found the constant claim of couture mixed with clearly home-sewing techniques to be irritating. However, the book is well-illustrated, the techniques are perfect acceptable for what they really are. They're just not couture.

9 of 9 people found the following review helpful

5.0 out of 5 stars LOVE IT! August 28, 2011

By aussi_chick

Format:Hardcover-spiral|Amazon Verified Purchase

When I first got this in the mail, I had prepared myself for it to not live up to the reviews, I thought that it would probably end up being another dust collecting book on the shelf of my sewing room. Then I opened it, and couldn't put it down! The instructions are so clear and the tips are fantatstic. I am slowly going through trying every technique, with amazing results. My friends are all trying to figure out my new secret to the great finishes on my projects. The clear pictures make it so any one can do it! If only all sewing books could be like this! LOVE IT!

11 of 12 people found the following review helpful

5.0 out of 5 stars Beautiful book December 25, 2010

By Sewing fanatic

Format:Hardcover-spiral|Amazon Verified Purchase

This book is gorgeous! The techniques demonstrated are well illustrated with easy to follow instructions. I am a visual learner and often find written books a bit harder to decipher. This book however is written by someone who understands how to give instructions that are easy to follow and execute. I highly recommend this book to anyone trying to bring their level of sewing to a higher quality standard. Thank you Lynda!

10 of 11 people found the following review helpful

5.0 out of 5 stars GRRRRREEEEAT April 16, 2012

By ca

Format:Hardcover-spiral|Amazon Verified Purchase

I have to admit, this is the best sewing guide that i have purchased. As another post said, It's more of RTW techniques, but these are techniques that I (a sewing begginer) do not know. The instructions and photos make learning extremely easy.I love this book!

I also have the Claire Shaeffer couture sewing book. This one is not for the begginer. If you are a new seamstress i recommend Ms. Maynards book first then graduate to Ms. Shaeffers book. I hope this review helps some struggling seamstress out there.