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DriTac Wood Floor Repair Kit-Engineered Flooring ONLY 32oz
|Price:||$65.75 & FREE Shipping. Details|
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- DriTac has developed a repair system to correct the hollow spots and popping conditions for engineered wood flooring installations when other adhesives fail to get the job done.
- These defects cost the flooring industry millions of dollars per year.
- Studies and experience show that a major cause of these problems for engineered wood floor installations are adhesive voids between the flooring and the subfloor.
- **DO NOT USE Dritac RS-1 engineered wood floor over sealed concrete. For repairs over concrete , use DriTac SW-1 Solid Wood & Bamboo Floor Repair Kit
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Top Customer Reviews
Here are some trial and error tricks. 1) To aid in getting adhesive into the syringe. Before inserting the plunger, liberally apply Petroleum Jelly to the plunger rubber parts and the inside of syringe. It is much easier to suck up adhesive. It won't affect anything.Wipe off the inside LIP of the Jar to help keep the syringe from getting messy. 2) Use an old Face Cloth rag, whetted with moderate amount of dish soap and water, wrung out so it won't drip. (It will greatly aid in any clean up of the adhesive because the soap cuts the chemical bond of anything Latex. Wring the cloth out and use it again for painting or caulking.) 3) Mark the floor with blue masking tape. Tap the floor with anything to denote where there is solid and hollow. I used the handle of a small hammer. To mark a large area, while standing use a wood broom handle or pole, then go back with the hammer. 4) Use Pre-Colored MinWax Wood Putty to seal holes, and choose the darkest area of your flooring to match. 5) Drill ALL holes first and clean up the shavings. Drill ONLY IN THE DARKEST AREAS. This will make caulking easier. I used 2-4 holes for each hollow spot so that adhesive would cover everything in the hollow. Tap with handle to see if hollow sound disappears. 6) I used a Wire Nipper Pliers to trim the wood pegs, then counter sunk each one a little bit. This stops "weeping" of the adhesive. Cover each hole with MinWax Putty. Clean up and remove tape. Wash and wax next day. If MinWax smears at all, buff with soft cloth. Enjoy the improvement.
1. Wear an old shirt and plan to throw it away when you are done.
2. Identify all the bad areas and drill all holes before hand.
3. Put a light coat of lube on the rubber grommet at the end of the plunger that goes into the syringe. This will REALLY help push the glue out
4. Do not attempt to suck the glue up with the syringe. It will not work.
5. Remove syringe plunger, put your index finger on the tip of the needle and pour the glue in directly.
6. Do not install the plunger in the syringe yet.
7. Put the syringe needle in the drilled hole. It will not leak when you remove your finger from the needle.
8. Once the needle is in the hole put the plunger in and begin to push the glue out.
9. Repeat the steps for all holes.
10. I filled no more than 5 holes at a time then i inserted the wood dowel.
This was by far the easiest way to apply the product with minimal mess. The wood dowels are larger than the drilled holes. I found the best way to install them was to use a pencil sharpener to lightly sharped the dowel so i could easily drive it in the hole. I used wire cutters to cut the dowel flush to the floor.Read more ›
Here are some tips:
-First tap your floors to find the air "pockets" and mark them off with painters tape so that you can assess your progress during the process
-I found it unnecessary to drill two holes (the idea being that air can escape from the 2nd hole as you're filling the first with adhesive), but did find it helpful to drill the hole in the center of what I thought to be the "deepest" pocket
-Use a dust buster to vacuum up debris from drilling your hole before injecting adhesive
-Use vaseline petroleum jelly LIBERALLY to coat the plunger and inside of your syringe (I used an old toothbrush to coat the inside of the syringe) because otherwise the syringe will get "gummed up" quite quickly from the adhesive. If you have several spots to repair, I would suggest having several syringes on hand to switch out as needed or be willing to clean/re-lube your syringe
-after drilling the hole, place the metal tip into the hole, attach the syringe, then pour the adhesive into the syringe (approximately 3/4 full) with a small cup (when you first open the adhesive bottle, be ready for adhesive to splatter), place the plunger into the syringe and apply firm but gentle pressure to begin injecting the adhesive.Read more ›
Most Recent Customer Reviews
I was looking for a product for my floors and thankfully I found DriTac. This product works exactly as advertised. Read morePublished 3 days ago by ERIC
This was so easy to use and allowed my husband fixed our flooring problem.Published 8 days ago by Collene Harris
when you install wood for a living your bound to need this sooner or later.Published 27 days ago by Buyer and applier
I had popping and loose flooring in my kitchen. The flooring was installed over concrete. The popping and looseness started off small but the more time we spent walking over it... Read morePublished 1 month ago by John Marini
I have engineered bamboo wood over concrete, I had 10 places that began to "pop" within 48 hours of install, this product works bottom-line, no questions!!!! Read morePublished 1 month ago by Marion Bulwinkle
Dont hesitate, just buy it. Plain and simple... this stuff really works!
My flooring: Engineered bamboo hardwood. About 700sq ft. Pretty expensive flooring. Read more
It is very easy to use! This stuff is awesome! If you are going insane over your popping engineered wood floors, this product will stop the insanity. Read morePublished 2 months ago by Jenni