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Customer Reviews

4.8 out of 5 stars79
Size: 32 Ounce|Change
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on March 9, 2010
I have been uding Dura Lube Engine Treatment for 12 years in all my personal and work vehicles. I must say that I honestly think it helps against engine wear. I have one truck with over 200,000 miles, another work truck with over 300,000 miles and a couple more over 150,000 and I have had ZERO engine/oil related problems. You can tell the first time you add this to your fresh oil change as your engine operates more smoothly. It also helps cold starts.

I have to give Dura Lube 5 stars based on personal experience.
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on April 5, 2011
I have used Dura Lube in my Camry since it's first oil change. I had some minor engine work done very recently (timing belt) when the mechanic came in to the waiting area just to ask me what I have been using in my engine. I told him that I really have only used Dura Lube. Why? I asked him. He told me that he had never seen an engine with so many miles on it that was so clean on the inside. It's the original engine by the way. I use Dura Lube every third oil change and have nothing but praise for the product. I will never own a car that doesn't have this stuff in the engine. My lawn man uses it in all of his lawnmowers as well.
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on October 13, 2013
I have used Dura Lube on and off throughout the years. I first started using Slick 50, when the PTFE clogged the oil filter, I figured it could not be good for the motor.

Enter Dura Lube. No solids like slick 50. Stable and bonds to metal better. I turned a friend onto Dura Lube and helped him change this oil on their Mazda 626 and added the Dura Lube. He drove the car for about 7K miles and just prior to going on a family road trip from Knoxville, TN to Destin, FL, he got his oil changed at the local Firestone. Unknown to him, Firestone drained the oil, but did not refill the oil. They drove to Destin and back on an EMPTY crankcase. The car began running warm on the return trip, where it was discovered there was NO oil in the car! He and I both felt that the Dura Lube that had been added to the prior oil change was the only thing that kept the engine from seizing up!

I'm sold! I use it in my 2004 1500 Silverado I replace the full quart every 3rd oil change. The truck currently has 282K on it and does not burn or leak a drop of oil.
I also "top off" a 1/4 - 1/3 Quart every oil change on my wife's 2005 Honda Accord 4cy. It gets A LOT of city driving, it is ideal for this as well.

The stuff is solid when driving around. Where it REALLY matters is cold start protection. This is where the majority of your engine wear occurs. My truck does not get the usage it used to (have a SUV as a primary vehicle now), it sits for a couple of weeks at a time. So starting the truck after sitting that long can be detrimental to the wear on a high mileage vehicle like it.

1 oz in the ole Honda mower keeps it running strong and cooler too.

GREAT STUFF!
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on March 31, 2010
I have been using this product since 1990. I have even used it in an aircraft that I have owned. The first time that I changed oil and filter on the plane I noticed in flight that the oil temp was 30 to 40 degrees lower than before and the cylinder head temp was about 20 to 30 degrees lower. Doing a compression check at 1400 hours each cylinder was at least 75/80. This stuff works as advertised.
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on October 11, 2014
I've been using Duralube since the early 1990s and continue to use it to this day in everything I own that has an engine. At the time I did a ton of research on Pro-long and Slick50 and came to the conclusion that Duralube was the superior product. The first time I used Duralube was in a 1988 CBR600F (Hurricane) with 50k+ miles on it. 50k miles on a rice rocket is already extremely high mileage (especially the way I rode it), but after adding duralube, the engine ran unbelievably smooth. It was immediately noticeable and a night and day difference. The thermal switch for the radiator fan always burned out in that bike too and Duralube noticeably lengthened the time for which the bike would overheat. In fact, it wouldn't overheat unless it was over 100F and this wasn't the case before (I'm also referring to when the bike is idling like when you're at a stoplight or stuck at a stand still on a California freeway for one reason or another..or otherwise at a slow enough rate of speed to not properly get air through the radiator fins).

Prior to Duralube, that bike felt like when you hold a power tool too long and your hand goes numb...except to my butt and lower extremities. I put Duralube in it every five or so oil changes and when I finally sold that bike, it had over 100k miles on it and the engine still ran fine. I always worried about clutch slippage but never noticed anything in any of my 10+ motorcycles/ATV/ATC I ran it in over the years. I ride my bikes hard and have never seized a motor...ever..and never replaced the top end on any four strokes I own. I can't remember ever not using Duralube in a motor in almost 25 years and I feel it has served me well.

I doubt you'll notice much difference in a newer vehicle, but that doesn't mean it isn't working. Just make sure to add this stuff after the engine has broken in according to everything I've read. I put it in my Toyota Tacoma around the 20K miles mark, and never had one engine problem in 150K+ miles now and over 10 years... and I don't baby the truck in the least. I even tow motorcycle/watercraft trailers with it sometimes (with the bed loaded too) through places like the California Grapevine...and it has a four cylinder engine. It's not an ideal towing situation, lots of high RPMs and downshifting... but no engine problems.

I also use Duralube in just about everything that needs lubrication (like a house fan that's starting to seize up). Most anything that required WD40 or 3-in-1 oil before... gets Duralube now.
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on September 27, 2015
I've used this almost 20 years ago on a 4 cylinder car and it helped make it smoother, but every other claim was questionable. That car lasted more than 250k, but I got tired of it- any Honda can do that easily. Now with 2 cars having 6 cylinders, one being used 4 times a month and another being used daily, I needed startup protection. No one needs to warm up cars anymore, but that first few minutes when the engine is heating up, I can feel that the regular oil is still at the bottom of the pan. Conventional oil works when it is circulating in a warm engine, but in a cold engine I can hear the engine grinding if I work it too hard. After putting half a bottle in each car, I can tell this: The daily driver is protected during warm up- no terrible grinding sounds and the occasional driver is the same. The warm up period in each is smoother. For the daily driver after 1 tank of gas, the mileage has increased, but I will wait for further judgement. Cars are machines, but I feel like having this startup protection, I am keeping them healthier.
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on February 28, 2010
I first came across Dura Lube twelve years ago, while living on the east coast. And it does what it says; in cold starts, the car would start fresh, as if it was warmed up. Anyone who lives in a cold climate knows that grinding sound as the cold oil washes back up into the engine, and how that means a shorter engine life. And while I am currently in California, I use DuraLube still. I hear the difference, and since my 2004 Toyota Solara (Which has been great, no problems) has 150k miles on it, I am convinced Dura Lube is a winner. Highly recommend, and I have nothing to do with the company. [...]
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on December 31, 2013
I found this $14 stuff solved my Monday morning smoke cloud when I started my 1991 Chevrolet service van with 15,000 miles on it.
What I also learned was that when I used the crankcase oil with the Duralube in it for chain oil on my 5 Stihl chain saws was that the normal indication you get after running for a few minutes after the tank is empty with ordinary 30 wt is not there.

Normally the first clue that you ran out of oil is sparks from bare metal rubbing bare metal at hundreds of feet per second. AND SEVERE CHAIN AND BAR DAMAGE.

After recycling my truck oil through my chain saws as bar oil I never again saw sparks or wear no matter how careless I was about keeping oil in the tank.

THE EXTRA COST OF THE PRODUCT IS MET MANY TIMES OVER IN THIS RECYCLE.

Any vehicle can have a pump failure, Filter failure or some other failure that lets the oil go OR not be pumped to where it is needed and this product will give you a huge hedge against engine damage as well as damage from otherwise ordinary engine wear.

If your engine is loaded with sludge you probably should clean it out before using any similar additive that penetrates whatever to bare metal. and forms a impenetrable coating that floats sludge to places where it will clog return passages.

I will never again (as long as I have the extra $14 or so change engine oil without this product. Even my industrial air cooled engines get it.
A 15 to 20 horse air cooled engine costs about $1000 and can be destroyed in seconds once the ordinary 30 wt lube oil is no longer protecting it.
I cannot afford to take that chance with the three engines I use.
This product has always given me 100% protection against things like drain plug loss or similar events.
You check the oil before you start the engine and some engines have dead man oil pressure switches, but damage without Duralube protection is guaranteed in the seconds it takes to know the oil is gone no matter what.
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on September 13, 2014
Amazing product, my Dad's been using it for nearly 20 years. Great for high mileage cars. You can feel and hear the difference it makes, quieting the engine down and giving it a smoother feeling. Been using it for cars and minivans.

Best use: use with new oil change, have them fill one quart less than normal, and pour the quart of Duralube in to fill it up. The company has changed their packaging and directions over the years, but that was the only method they originally recommended.
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on December 11, 2014
All I can tell you about the nay sayers is they have one thing in common that I see - None of them have ever used it. I don't know of anyone who used this product in a not already destroyed engine who was not impressed. Car, plane, lawnmower... it doesn't matter, they all benefit.

I first used this in my brand new Plymouth Neon in 1995. After the initial 1500 mile run in, I changed the oil and included dura lube. The car went from it's stated 32 mpg highway to 47 mpg highway. You read that right. It also ran at least 20 degrees cooler, and if you have a temp gauge you'll see the evidence of that the first time you use it. I owned the car for 10 years and highway mileage for most of that time was around 45 mpg and only near the end was closer to 43. If you know Neons you know their head gaskets blew at 20-30 thousand miles. Mine went to 100 thousand before this needed attention.

This product is also as good on older cars. I bought a 1961 Morris Minor a year ago and changed the oil and included dura lube. Again, the running temp dropped 20 degrees, the car took hills much better and the mileage went from 30 to about 42 mpg highway. That was especially welcome in a car with a 6.5 gallon tank. (It's already embarrassing putting 3 gallons in to "fill" it up)

One point that was made about this product years ago, but I have not seen since but which I continue to do, is it was stated it should not be put in and left to sit. Better still, the car should be taken on a long drive. I have always timed the oil change the day before a highway trip, changing the oil and filter the day before and then re adding all the oil except the dura lube quart. Then, before leaving the next day, I add the dura lube, start the engine and go. I try to make it a highway trip and at least 2 hours long. This seems to run in the product very well, and while I am not sure it matters, my results are such that I feel it is worth continuing.

The final verdict is buy it and use it. It is ALL that and a bag of chips....
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