49 of 49 people found the following review helpful
on May 13, 2013
I've been using various sizes of these inserts for some time in hardwood projects. They work great. I do have a few tips, though:
1. Drill the hole slightly oversized for hardwood. I use a 9/32" bit when 1/4" is specified. I find that the threads will tear out a lot of wood if you try to force them into a smaller hole and you may damage the insert. Apply a bit of wood glue to the outside threads as both a lubricant and to lock them in place.
2. Do not try to screw these into place with a flat bladed screwdriver. It's frustrating and very likely to break the insert. Save the slot on the insert for if/when you have to remove the insert. To drive them, you can buy a tool, but I use a bolt of the right size, with a Phillips, hex or square drive (too hard to "steer" a slotted bolt). Thread a nut on the bolt so enough thread is exposed below the nut to go about 1/2 - 2/3 the way into the insert. Finger-tighten the insert against the nut and drive it in using the bolt. When it is seated, twist the driver backward sharply and the bolt should back out leaving the insert behind (otherwise, use a pair of pliers to loosen the nut).
32 of 33 people found the following review helpful
on January 24, 2014
These seem to be well made and work well, but here are a few thoughts after having installed them:
- First and foremost, install one on a piece of scrap lumber before trying to install them in your project to avoid unpleasant surprises.
- I agree with those who suggest larger pilot holes. I had 1/4-20 inserts, for which the recommended hole size is 3/8". I was installing these in pine, which is a soft wood, but still found I got better results with a 13/32" hole (1/32" larger than recommended. When I tried one with a 3/8" hole the surface of the wood raised up a bit around the hole. At he very least I would drill out the pilot hole near the surface to avoid this problem. In harder woods I'd probably use an even larger hole.
- Having never used these before, I naively assumed they'd follow the holes I drilled for them, and as a result go in perpendicular to the wood's surface. Wrong. At least in pine they will go in at an angle if you aren't very careful unless you use some kind of jig to ensure they go in straight. I inserted a couple by hand and it was a pain to get them straight, so I made a simple jig to install them out of a short piece of 2x4, a 1/4" bolt and nut.
Using a drill press I drilled a 3/4" hole about halfway through the 2x4 and then drilled a 1/4" hole the rest of the way through. I inserted the bolt in the 1/4" hole and screwed a nut on the end until it was about half-an-inch past the end of the bolt.
To use it I screw an insert onto the bolt and finger-tighten it against the nut, and then push the insert back up into the recess until it's almost flush with the surface of the 2x4. I put the piece of 2x4 over the hole into which the insert will be threaded and hold it down as I use a wrench with a ratchet drive to screw in the insert. Then I slide the 2x4 up the bolt enough to get an open-end wrench in to the nut so I can loosen it from the insert, then I unscrew the bolt from the insert.
(Although I didn't find it necessary, you can put a washer between the insert and nut to ensure you don't go to far and drive the nut into the wood since the 2x4 blocks your view of the process.)
Once I figured out the best hole size and started using my jig to install them the process went quickly and I got great results.
26 of 27 people found the following review helpful
on January 14, 2012
I used these threaded inserts for making my own beer tap handles for a kegerator; they fit the Perlick faucets perfectly.
The inserts are made of brass and have pre-cut "top" that can be used to screw the insert into whatever you are putting it in. The screwdriver diameter is a 1/2 inch, which is probably a bigger size than one would normally have in their toolbox. I purchased the E-Z LOK Drive Tool - Optional - Use with 329-6, 329-601, 329-624, 303-6, 303-624, 319-6, 319-624, 335-6, 450-10, 550-6, 650-10, 650-10F, 453-10, 653-10, 653-10F, 400-6, 400-624,, which worked like a charm (placed the bit in a vice, placed the threaded insert on top of that and then placed the tap handle on top of that and screwed it down onto the thread).
They recommend a half inch drill hole, which is pretty tight depending on the wood you're using (though going up a drill bit size would probably be too wide). You may need to sand your hole a bit wider to make the it a bit easier to get it started. Also, you may consider putting some wax, etc. on the threads before screwing in to help lubricate it.
33 of 36 people found the following review helpful
on July 23, 2011
This is an excellent product for soft to medium density wood.
DO NOT use for Hardwoods. Use the stainless steel type. E-Z LOK Threaded Insert For Hard Wood; 1/4-20 Int Thread; 303 Stainless Steel (Pack of 10)
It is a well made product that works extremely well, however the heading states:
"E-Z LOK Threaded Insert For Hard Wood".
I could easily rate this a 5 star if it stated it was for soft to medium density woods.
Suggest the following;
26/64" (13/32") pilot drill in Hard Wood such as oak or maple.
25/64" pilot drill in Medium Density such as Poplar or Ash.
3/8" pilot drill in soft to medium density woods such as pine.
12 of 12 people found the following review helpful
on May 5, 2013
I've been using smaller versions of these threaded inserts for some time but decided I needed something larger for a recent project. These filled the bill and the price here is good - usually you find them in packages of 4 or 8. One warning, if you are putting these into hardwood you probably want to drill the hole one size (1/64 - 1/32) larger. I find they often tear out wood if you drill the hole with the recommended size drill. Experiment on some scrap before you decide.
Trying to drive them with the slot on top is a waste of time. It's very likely to tear out or even break. (And then you're hosed if you have to back the insert out of the wood at some point.) You can buy the dedicated driver tool but I just use a bolt of the right size with a nut threaded down so it can be threaded about 1/2 to 2/3s of the way into the insert. Use a bolt with a philips, hex or square drive (a slotted bolt will slide around) and screw the insert into the wood. Then you can usually back it out with a sharp reverse twist or, worst case, hold the bolt with the screwdriver and loosen the nut with a pair of pliers or a wrench. (Bonus: the nut will slightly dimple the wood making sure the top of the insert is below the surface level.) Applying glue to the threads isn't bad insurance, or apply a drop of superglue after the insert is set. One thing I use them for is creating threaded holes in MDF jigs, gluing them in. They're easy to salvage if the jig wears out or is no longer needed.
11 of 11 people found the following review helpful
on April 27, 2011
Once these are inserted into the wood properly, they are both sturdy and very attractive. These are great for any wood project that might need to be taken apart occasionally or requires a more refined look. The reason is that if you have to insert and then remove a wood screw more than a few times, the screw hole will get chewed up and not hold the screw tightly anymore. These inserts allow you to use a machine screw instead that can be removed and inserted any number of times without weakening the joint.
Ok. Now some advice i wish i had before i started working with these. I used the E-Z Lok inserts for hard wood (part 400-006 with 6-32 internal thread size). E-Z Lok recommends the hole to be drilled for these should be 1/4". At this diameter, there was no way i could get the insert below the surface of the wood even with lubrication. I used a properly-sized screw driver but it required so much force that a good size shard of brass cracked of the edge when i attempted to put in the last few turns. I wound up drilling a 5\16" hole which worked MUCH better. The insert did not feel loose at all and if this is at all a concern for some, apply a small amount of wood glue on the outer threads before inserting it. Also, even though a flat head screw driver will work, the groove for turning it is quite wide so this is not ideal. E-Z Lok makes a special bit for turning the inserts which would probably make a big difference, but I personally dislike having to carry such a specific tool.
Secondly, the inserts have an amazing ability to start going in crooked even if they started out straight on the first few turns. On my project I drilled a through hole in the wood so i could access the bottom side of the insert while inserting it. The reason this helped is because i could partly inset a 6-32 screw from the back and use it as a handle to straighten the insert if it began to get crooked while screwing it in. Then i simply covered the hole with a little wooden plug and the result looked and worked great. This is unfortunately not an option in the case where you can only drill a blind hole, which i would assume is most of the time.
In the end they worked out quite well and I hope my advice saves you some frustration.
8 of 8 people found the following review helpful
on January 20, 2013
I used these anchors to convert my brand new Squier Stratocaster into a travel guitar. I replaced the four wood screws used to mount the neck with stainless steel anchors and machine screws. (Yes, I called them bolts in the title, but that's just for search engines. They are actually machine screws, not bolts, although I'm not sure if there's really a difference.)
There is a good deal of discussion of this topic on the web, so I'll try to keep it short. The most important step is to experiment installing the anchors with a scrap piece of wood. There IS a learning curve. Instead of 0.250" (8/32) pilot holes, I used 9/32" (7.14 mm). Quarter inch pilot holes might be fine for soft wood, but IMHO 9/32 inch holes work better with a hard wood. Please, do NOT attempt to install the anchor with a screwdriver. Yes, the anchor has a slot, which suggests a screwdriver will work, but you'll only tear the end of the anchor apart. The guitar's wood is too hard.
Tip: make an anchor install tool using a machine screw, two jam nuts, and a washer. This way you can install the anchor with a wrench instead of a screwdriver. Thread two nuts onto a machine screw, add a washer, then thread the anchor onto the screw. The washer is between the anchor and the jam nuts. The screw is inserted completely through the anchor, but not so far as to protrude from its end. Tighten both jam nuts firmly against washer and anchor. Use a wrench to install. Go slowly! Small turns! Use the head of the screw to keep it straight. To countersink the anchor, remove the washer, reinstall the screw and the jam nuts, and give it approximately one more turn with the wrench. The anchor must be countersunk at least a trace or it will cause major, major neck alignment problems.
The Internet gurus recommend 1.75 inch, 8-32, oval head, stainless machine screws. I had better success with 1.50 inch screws. This is because 1.75 inch screws are too long. The 1.75 inch screw runs completely through the anchor and protrudes from its end by about 0.125 inch. Your pilot holes must be deep enough to account for this, or you'll have major problems. Another problem I found with 1.75 inch screws is that it's difficult to get the anchor perfectly aligned along the target axis. This causes a long screw to bind as it's threaded completely through the anchor. If the screw binds, removing the screw also removes the anchor along with it, which doesn't work well for a travel guitar.
Closing thoughts: If you're really ambitious, buy 1.75 inch screws, and use a bolt cutter to cut them to the exact length needed. However, I think this is a waste of time and effort. I suspect that the anchor/wood interface will fail LONG before anchor/screw interface (strength of wood vs. steel). Also, use a high quality, i.e. sharp, drill bit for your pilot holes. You'll probably need to buy a 9/32 bit. It's worth spending the extra $2. Finally, with the homemade install tool, I didn't need to tap the pilot holes before installing the anchors. It really made installing them quite easy.
7 of 7 people found the following review helpful
on May 12, 2014
Installing stainless steel 8-32 inserts into the heel of any bolt-on neck will create the best neck joint you could possibly hope for. This is a fairly simple procedure that will yield excellent sonic transference between an electric guitar's neck and body. This sonic quality is truly noticeable by most players. It also makes the neck easy to remove and reinstall perfectly, but you already know this from reading prior reviews.
Here's the stuff they don't tell you...
First, DON'T think for a minute that a 10-24 insert will be better in a guitar neck, as in most cases this brings the holes too close to the edge of the neck. This may not be the case on some bass necks. While careful drilling may yield decent results with huge inserts, do you really want test your skill on your precious neck? It's totally not necessary as the tensile strength of this 8-32 arrangement far exceeds your ability to tighten the neck. You can crush the wood with the 8-32 hardware if you're strong and foolish enough.
Next, in my early daze, I was dumb enough to do this installation using a hand drill. I was lucky it worked. Here's my advice... DON'T EVER USE A FRIGGEN HAND DRILL, even if the eBay ad you got this idea from says you can. Sure, it can be done, especially if your doing this procedure on your $59. First Act guitar made from 100% recycled cow pie. If you don't have a drill press, find a friend with one that you can work both electrically and manually (turning the main pulley by hand). You really, really, really should also have a neck cradle of some kind that allows you to clamp the neck (frets down) onto the drill press table so the neck is stable and square while you drill.
Next, aside from electrically drilling out the 1/4" pilot holes with a sharp 1/4" Forstner drill bit, this will be the only time electrical power needs to be used. The rest of the procedure is done by you turning the drill press manually by hand. You may need a second person to either turn the press's pulley or to actuate the feed lever. Personally, I do it alone, and hope to god no one is watching me, cause it can look weird spinning the pulley by hand whilst applying downforce to the press's feed lever and holding the neck steady.
SAFETY NOTE... when turning the drill press by hand, consider first unplugging the drill press from the wall outlet. This is always a good idea before sticking your hands into things that will gladly remove your fingers and ruin your guitar-playing experience.
DRILLING THE 1/4" HOLES.... The Forstner bit is great at showing you where you're about to drill. While centering your bit, you can manually touch off the hole lightly and the bit will naturally make a perfect circle around the existing pilot hole. This lets you judge if your X & Y alignment is correct before you actually plunge the Forstner bit into the wood.
Set your drilling speed slow enough so you don't burn the wood. Also, carefully measure the depth of the plunge to go just past the insert by 1/4", then immediately set your depth stop (so you don't forget)! Do NOT drill any deeper than you have to. This just weakens the wood unnecessarily and may make new vent holes in your fretboard for all those hot licks you'll be playin'. Consider cutting your 1-3/4" s.s. screws down to the exact length you need- all you truly need is at least 3 threads to catch fully when screwing your screws into the inserts. 4 or more is only marginally better but may give more satisfaction / confidence).
TAPPING YOUR NEW HOLES should be done with a 5/16-18 "bottoming" tap, manually turned in the drill press. While turning, apply some light downforce to get the tap started. The threads will begin to cut in allowing you to discontinue the downforce.
Now, you're probably saying to yourself that the insert's outside thread is a 5/16-16, so that's the tap you want to use, except you'd be wrong. Sure it will work, but not optimally for this type of installation. The 5/16-18 threads become progressively wider apart in relation to the insert's outer threads. This gives you perfectly sync'd threads at the beginning of your tapped hole, but then they start to mis-align with the insert's outer threads as it cuts in deeper in the 1/4" hole. This causes the insert's outer cutting threads to cut into more bare wood. REALITY CHECK... The whole point of the insert's outer "cutting" threads is that they need to cut into VIRGIN wood to be properly seated. The 5/16-18 tap allows this to happen towards the last few turns while seating it. Also, you should install the insert no deeper than the correct depth the FIRST time. Do not over insert it, then back it out to make the depth right. The correct depth is somewhere around .005" below the surface of the neck's heel. BTW, a "bottoming" tap is simply a tap that has a flat bottom (no tip) so it can thread all the way to the bottom of a hole. BTW #2... by tapping the holes, this will prevent any chip-out around the hole when inserting the inserts. Countersinking to prevent chip-out is unnecessary and unhelpful.
INSERTING THE INSERT... If all you have is a couple of jamb nut and a washer on an 8-32 thread with 4 sides filed flat (so it won't slip in a chuck), go ahead and use it to drive in the inserts. But if you want something that works much easier, simply use an 8-32 X 1/4" or 1/2" Allen head cap screw to drive in the insert. Drive it in manually on the drill press with the appropriate Allen driver bit firmly locked in the chuck (usually a 9/64th Allen driver bit). This will drive it in dead square and the screw will back out effortlessly once the insert is perfectly seated. Just a quick counter-clockwise jolt on the drill press' main pulley unscrews the Allen head cap screw. No fuss, no muss. And since a visual-robbing washer isn't required on the Allen head cap screw, you can easily see how far you've inserted your inserts into the wood. This is a simpler way IMHO than doing it the jamb nuts / washer method.
WHERE DO I GET S.S. SCREWS THAT HAVE THE SAME HEAD AS A FENDER NECK BOLT? McMaster Carr has them listed under part #91802A204 for the 1-3/4" length and part #91802A203 for the 1-1/2" length. Both are 18-8 Stainless Steel Oval Head Phillips Machine Screws with 8-32 threads. Some people like using the 1-1/2" s.s. screw. Others like to use a 1-3/4" s.s. screw and cut it to the perfect size if need be. Also check out Jamestown Distributors. They're listed under "#8-32 S/S Machine Screws OP".
Oh yeah, before attaching the neck to your body, you may want to consider using 4 inset neck washers instead of a standard 4-bolt plate. This is because a standard plate could easily warp under the intense tension of your new neck connection. You could look for an extra-thick 4-bolt plate. I think Callaham or a company called Tiapantone.com (probably defunct) may make one. GFS makes one but be aware all their parts are usually made by the lowest Asian bidder. REMEMBER, all these different bolt-on options require different length screws and insert hole depths.
Good luck. Try not to hurt yourself.
5 of 5 people found the following review helpful
on November 16, 2012
I use these on all my Fender Strat guitar necks. You do get a tighter fit, and can endlessly detach your neck without ever worrying about striping the original maple neck wood threads again. Fender should use these or something similar on all their necks!
Overall very good quality threaded Stainless insert, however very overpriced for what you get. These E-Z Lock Stainless 8-32 inserts were half the price just a year ago! Don't use the Brass ones, they are too soft for hardwood.
A word of caution: As you can plainly see the external Insert threads are far to fine to be self tapping regardless of the manufacturers instructions.
You absolutely MUST use a Tap to thread out hardwood prior to installing these your you will destroy your guitar neck or other hardwood object. Once tapped I also slightly countersink the hole a 1/16" to to prevent splintering. I also highly recommend you use a Tap Wrench when installing the Insert itself; do NOT use power tools to install the Threaded insert. You can lubricate the tapped hole with a drop of rubbing alcohol, tung oil, or naptha prior to installing the tap; all dry completely & will not soften the wood. Use simple logic & a little common sense & these work very well. Not recommended for anyone without some wood working ability. Practice on a slab of oak or maple several times prior to working on any expensive Guitar neck; more common sense.
5 of 5 people found the following review helpful
on January 18, 2015
---NOT made in USA--- made in China with weak second-rate metal. Brittle teeth fracture and snap....and teeth are dull so they also hog out the hole destroying the entry location ---NOT made in USA---
FRAUD WARNING----> the Seller bad mouths anyone (all users + me) who expose the knockoffs and then overwhelms the Feedback with "Glowing Comments" to skew the Feedback average. See other ThreadLok "Current" comments from people who talk about how cheap they are.