Eastern Alps: The Classic Routes: The Classic Routes on the Highest Peaks [Paperback]

Dieter Seibert (Author)

Book Description

Publication Date: October 1, 1992 | Series: Teach Yourself

Dieter Seibert gives advice on hut approaches and essential grading and technical considerations, and then provides descriptions of the classic ascent routes of all the main peaks. The glaciated ranges of the Eastern Alps encompass the Bernina and Silvretta ranges of Switzerland, the Ortler/Adamello groups on the Austro/Swiss/Italian borders and all the main Austrian groups - the Otztal, Stubai, Zillertal and Gross Glockerner. Even the far flung Dachstein and Marmolada ranges have small glaciers. All the main peaks in these ranges involve glacier approaches and thus become technical mountaineering expeditions, requiring proper skills and training.

Product Details

• Paperback: 176 pages
• Publisher: Menasha Ridge Press; 1st edition (October 1, 1992)
• Language: English
• ISBN-10: 0906371546
• ISBN-13: 978-0906371541
• Product Dimensions: 7.7 x 4.6 x 0.5 inches
• Shipping Weight: 6.4 ounces
• Average Customer Review: 5.0 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (1 customer review)
• Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #7,491,845 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

Customer Reviews

Most Helpful Customer Reviews

5.0 out of 5 stars Good handbook to some of Austria's most significant peaks, February 20, 2010

By 

csaba2000 "Csaba" - See all my reviews

This review is from: Eastern Alps: The Classic Routes: The Classic Routes on the Highest Peaks (Paperback)

I got this book as I've climbed eight of Austria's 3500+ meter peaks, and I would like to climb all 27 (your counting may vary). My list of them is:

Grossglockner (3797)
Wildspitze (3768)
Weißkugel (3738)
Grossvenediger (3674)
Hinterer Brochkogel (3628)
Hintere Schwärze (3624)
Similaun (3599)
Grosses Wiesbachhorn (3564)
Vorderer Brochkogel (3562)
Rainerhorn (3560)
Ötztaler Urkund (3554)
Innerer Barenbart Kogel (3553)
Großer Ramol Kogel (3549)
Schalfkogel (3537)
Hochvernagtspitze (3535)
Watzespitze (3532)
Marzellspitze (3532)
Langtauferer (3528)
Weißseespitze (3518)
Mutmal (3522)
Innere Quell Spitze (3514)
Fineil Spitz (3514)
Schwarze Wand (3511)
Romariswandkopf (3511)
Hochfeiler (3509)
Zuckerhütl (3507)
Hohes Aderl (3504)

This book does not cover all the above, but it does cover most of them, and quite a bit more. In particular, its focus is evidently the most interesting of the mountains in the following mountain groups:

Silvretta (eg. Silvretta, Buin)
Engadine and Bregaglia (eg. Bernina, Palu, Disgrazia)
Ortler and Adamello (eg. Ortler, Konigspitze, Cevedale)
Otztal (eg. Wildspitze, Similaun, Weisskugel)
Stubai (eg. Zuckerhutl, Ruderhofspitze, Freiger)
Zillertal (eg. Hochfeiler, Grosser Moseler, Olperer)
Hohe Tauern (eg. Grossglockner, Grossvenediger)
Others (ie. Marmolata, Dachstein)

Mostly, the book details the standard routes up the major peaks, but in some cases (eg. with the Wildspitze) the ordinary route is so ordinary, that Seibert cannot bring himself to detail it, and rather goes on to talk about an alternate route that is much more interesting. The author has a quite dry sense of humour which I like. For example, in describing the Weisskugel he writes, "In the summer, anyone who makes the 7km trek from the Hochjoch-Hospiz over the Hintereis Glacier to the Weisskugel has, by the evening, an indelible impression of the concept of 'glacier trudging'." If you've never done 'glacier trudging' before, the humour may escape you (and believe me, it's better that way); if you have done it, you understand that he is suggesting that another route be considered.

I gave the book 5 stars as I like the book and it has no competitor. If it gets a competitor, I might reconsider the rating. There are lots of good photos (26 color photos over 17 pages; 42 black and white scattered through the book), 26 rough area/route sketches. Each peak gets details on getting to the base hut, and on the climb itself along with some other objective and occasionally subjective information. Climb details tend to be pretty sparse, especially when compared to the generally modestly priced Fred Beckey books on the Washington Cascades, my gold standard. To be specific, you will want to get a map for any area you go to, of course, and I would also suggest more investigation (esp. on the internet) on any route you actually decide to indulge in. What the book is really good for is to give an excellent compendium on the possibilities.

Several peaks are not covered. Although Piz Bernina, the only 4000 meter peak in the book, is covered, the two peaks immediately next to it (Scerscen and Roseg) are not covered. The Hinterer Brochkogel is barely mentioned and the Vorderer Brochkogel not at all. other peaks that are significantly missing are the Ramolkogel, Watzespitze, and peaks by the Weisskugel.

The original German edition came out in 1990. When contemplating the photos, one should be wary that glaciers are severely receding in Europe and 20+ years has made a huge difference. If this book is updated, I would particularly like to see all 3500+ meter Austrian peaks included, and the length of the route descriptions from the huts approximately doubled. Also, the area/route sketches could have a few more details inserted, especially labels to correspond to the text.