Customer Reviews

Eleanora's Kitchen: 125 Fabulous Authentic Italian-American Recipes

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Just as Gennaro Contaldo's recently published book `Passione' would not have existed without the patronage of Jamie Oliver and the author's connection to Antonio Carluccio, this book headlined by Eleanora Russo Scarpetta would not exist were it not for the primary author's connection with both Martha Stewart and Al Roker in his role as a Food Network producer and star. Ms. Scarpetta has appeared on shows for both of her sponsors and she attributes the impetus behind this book to urging by Ms. Stewart. As with Gennaro's book, I would have paid this book no attention at all without the big name connections.

On first blush, it seems foolish for an amateur housewife to venture into the world so thoroughly explored by big name chef / writers such as Mario Batali, Lydia Bastianich, Marcella Hazan, and Giuliano Bugialli, just to name the currently most popular names in Italian cuisine writing. Ms Scarpetta does not even have the added cachet of a skillful culinary amateur Vincent Schiavelli, a well-known character actor and seasoned culinary writer.

Just as I wrap up all my reasons for pessimism, I actually start reading the book and discover that Ms. Scarpetta has captured a niche in culinary writing which none of the other names I have mentioned, even soul mate Gennaro, have touched. This is the role of the cook who genuinely cooks exclusively at home based on shopping done exclusively at retail markets in the Bronx' little Italy. She is not adapting restaurant recipes to the home or interpreting dishes done by Italian Nonnas or dishes written in 200 year old cookbooks. To this niche, Ms. Scarpetta adds a genuine passion and skill for canning and preserving, the talent that brought her to the attention of the Martha Stewart organization. This aspect immediately appeals to the unreconstituted `Whole Earth Catalogue hippie' in me, especially since I saw Ms. Scarpetta do her thing on Ms. Martha's show and it is easy to see the lady knows what she is doing.

Scarpetta describes her recipes as Italian American, based on the traditions of southern Italy in and around Naples, her birthplace. As such, the names of dozens of her recipes are immediately recognizable to regular readers of Italian cookbooks. Here we have yet another recipe for such classics as Eggplant Rollatini, Spaghetti Carbonara, Pasta Puttanesca, Chicken Cacciatore, Ossa Buco, Calzones, Sausage and Peppers, and several varieties of Minestrone. There are a fair number of original dishes, especially a wide variety of dishes featuring eggplant. There are also many good recipes for southern Italian torte for those of you totally jaded by Parisian and Viennese pastries.

There are a few general twists that differentiate Ms. Scarpetta's recipes from many others. The first is the prominent use of home preserved tomatoes (although a large can of Roma tomatoes is a satisfactory substitute). The second is to consistently replace Parmesano Reggiano with Pecorino Romano. Ms. Scarpetta says she prefers the stronger taste of the goat's milk cheese; however, it satisfies my sense of geographical fitness that Ms. Scarpetta from Naples would prefer the Roman product to the product from Parma, much further north on the Italian peninsula. The third is to actually prefer dried herbs to fresh in many cases. This is immensely satisfying, in that this is much more economical to the average cook and much more realistic, as even in warm Italy, an herb's growing season will probably fill only half a year. What do you do for the other half of the year? Ms. Scarpetta goes a step further and recommends that the home cooks take the effort to dry their own herbs. One reservation I have with the dried herb practice is in the use of dried basil. Every source I have ever seen on the subject prefers fresh to dried basil, fresh basil is available year round, AND, fresh hothouse basil available in your megamart is actually better than basil grown outdoors in the naked sun. I discovered this much to my surprise last year and have seen it written by veg experts since then.

Ms. Scarpetta provides all the information you need to do the home preserving she uses in her recipes and which I am sure she does herself with great skill and success. Preserving recipes cover drying herbs, canning artichoke hearts, marinated eggplant, canned sweet Italian peppers vinaigrette, canned roasted red peppers, canned caponatina spread, and (last but certainly not least) cured green olives. That's right. Ms. Eleanora cures her own Sicilian or Cerignola olives.

I've read almost every recipe and I find them all to be both of a professional quality and `just simple enough' but not too simple. All are worthy of the skills of premier restaurant chefs Mario and Lydia. It is important to note that Ms. Scarpetta had the assistance, as co-author, of Sarah Belk King, a well-known freelance writer and co-author for fellow Martha Stewart alumnae Sara Foster. Based on Ms. Belk's credits and acknowledgments, I suspect her contribution was primarily with cooking the words rather than with cooking the pasta.

The downsides of this book are few and depend on what you want from a new cookbook. While there are some family anecdotes herein, none have the richness and vibrancy I found in Genarro's work. Also, unlike Genarro's recipes, there are many, many standards that you will have in any number of other books on Italian-American cuisine. There was one ingredient in these recipes which puzzle me to no end. This is `fresh cheese'. I simply cannot visualize this ingredient except as cottage or farmer's cheese. I am also puzzled by the basic bread recipe, as it seems to use far too little yeast for the amount of flour, and a great amount of flour it is. For simple Italian bread, check out Gennaro or his student, Jamie Oliver's recipes in `Jamie's Kitchen'.

Highly recommended for genuine, straightforward Italian-American Home Cooking.

I first heard and saw Eleanora as she became a repeat guest on Martha Stewart's "Living" series. I really enjoyed her spontaneous and quirky personality which shined brightly against the more staid and reserved doyenne of domesticity. The more she returned to the show, the more I wondered if she would publish a cookbook of all the wonderful recipes that she prepared. Needless to say, I've had Eleanora's book since it came out in 2004, and it has been a staple cookbook for many a regular and party meal.

This is her first publishing venture, and I feel that she has far surpassed whatever goal she set for herself. I've found her recipes to be authentic and fresh, yet you could substitute store-bought ingredients if you didn't have time to make them yourself, such as the tomato sauce. I've gotten through half of the recipes and I haven't had a single disappointment; everything is satisfying and hearty.

I feel that Eleanora's teaching style can be used for those with basic cooking abilities to those with more skilled knowledge of Italian cooking. I had some culinary-challenged friends over to teach them how to make the Gnocchi, and the Ravioli, and they were impressed with themselves by the time they left. This is a wonderful way of encouraging family time, and even to pass the time catching up with friends. I've also found that for those folks who have everything, and you want to get something different, I've tucked this book into a gift basket filled with some of the basic staples of italian cooking and it has been a much-appreciated gift.

My all-time most requested dish is her "Nonna's Homemade Minestrone"; it is absolutely a favorite, especially during the cold winter months; the soup gets sprinkled with some Asiago cheese, and then it was paired with her homemade Italian bread and creamy butter, and a generous glass of my Pa's homemade wine. My own personal favorite is the "Italian Stew"; talk about hearty!!! Or how about the homemade ravioli? Fish? Follow that with a couple of desserts like Italian cream puffs (but chocolate or vanilla??!!) or maybe zeppole or the traditional tiramisu and you'll really have a problem with those pants fitting!! The pignoli cookies are a blast from the past; they taste just like I remember them!!! Then after everyone has eaten, and the kids are napping off the meal, let the adults enjoy a small sip of "Limoncello" to help digest your delicious meal!!! You cannot get any better than that!!!

Mrs. Scarpetta has done very well and has much to be proud of and she definitely has bragging rights. I hope that she will consider her next cookbook soon...........I'll be waiting!

Her book contains:

Acknowledgements
Introduction
Pantry Staples

Next are some glorious photographs of some of the dishes made; the color is crisp and clear and the food presentation gives you the push you need to try the recipe.

ANTIPASTI: eggplant bruschetta/roasted red bell peppers with olive oil and garlic/grilled eggplant and bell peppers/eggplant rollatini/figs, prosciutto, and fennel/fried aucchini blossoms/hot and spicy eggplant frittelle/fried artichoke hearts/old-fashioned roasted artichoke hearts with mint/baked littlenecks oreganata/arancini con tre formaggi/mozzarella in carrozza/escarole hearts with white beans and tuna/stuffed mushrooms

SOUPS AND STEWS: Nonna's homemade minestrone/tomato soup with fresh basil/cauliflower soup with green beans, zucchini, and basil/lentil soup with carrots, potatoes, and pancetta/pasta e fagioli/peasant style escarole and white bean soup/creamy split pea soup with potatoes/pasta and chickpea soup with tomatoes and basil/pasta with peas/turkey wing soup with winter veggies/Maria Domenica's chicken and veal soup with tiny meatballs/Italian beef stew/zuppa di pesce/

PASTA: Spaghetti with garlic and oil/spaghetti puttasnesca/penne alla Vodka/fettucine Alfredo/spaghetti with quick neopolitan marinara sauce/fettucine with green olive pesto/rigatoni with baby eggplant, tomatoes, and basil/gemelli with pesto napoletano/spaghetti with cherry tomatoes and porcini/fusilli with zucchini, eggplant, and mushrooms/spaghetti alle vongole/linguine with shrimp, clams, and arugula/linguine with white clam sauce/spaghettini with calamari fra diavolo/pasta mare e monte/rigatoni with broccoli rabe, sausage, and spicy tomato sauce/spaghetti carbonara with soppressata and pancetta/traditional Sunday sauce alla Russo/homemade cavatelli/cavatelli with sausage, spare ribs,and pork shoulder in tomato sauce/baked cavatelli with lamb-tomato sauce/gnocchi/Mamma Rosina's homemade tagliatelle/homemade ravioli with ricotta stuffing/manicotti stuffed with ricotta and mozzarella with rich marinara sauce/classic lasagna/baked penne with peas, prosciutto, and mozzarrella/Neopolitan spaghetti pie

FISH AND SHELLFISH: fried flounder with caper sauce/striped bass oregaata/striped bass all pizzaiola/grilled halibut with green olive-basil pesto/old-fashioned tuna loaf/shrimp marachiara/baked mussels fra diavolo/fried calamari/fried baccala/baccala with escarole and capers/insalata di mare

MEAT AND POULTRY: veal marsala/veal francese/veal scarpetta/veal sorrentino/veal osso buco/pork loin roast/pork chops al forno/braised prok chops with marinated artichoke hearts and vinegar peppers/Italian style sausage and peppers/marinated grilled baby lamb chops with fresh mint/grilled steak pizzaiola/beef Amburg/chicken cacciatore/stuffed chicken breast wiwth mozzarella

VEGGIE AND SIDE DISHES: zucchini with fresh mint/broccoli rabe vinaigrette/dandelion greens with potatoes and sun-dried tomatoes/Swiss chard with prosciutto and cipolline/fava beans alla pomodoro/Mamma Rosina's eggplant pizzaiola/grillled eggplant and portobello pizzaiola/fried asparagus with cheese/potato croquettes/creamy potato gratin with smoked mozzarella/eggplant parmigiana/Mamma's stuffed italian peppers/traditional stuffed artichokes/stuffed escarole with sun-dried tomatoes and capers/eggplant all Scarpetta

BREAD, PIZZA, AND SAVORY PIES: homemade Italian bread/prosciutto bread wiwth pancetta and basil/tomato focaccia/pizza napoletana with anchovies/taralli con finocchetti/sweet Easter bread/panzarotti/calzone with spinach and anchovies/toma pie/pizza rustica/

DESSERTS: pignoli cookies/biscotti with almonds and hazelnuts/biscotti con marmellata/lemon drop cookies/orange and lemon sunrise cake/fig and hazelnut torta/migliaccio di cervinara/sweet lemon-ricotta pie with brandied cherries/pizza gran/tiramisu/zeppole di ferrara/Italian cream puffs with vanilla and chocolate pastry cream/struffoli/limoncello

CANNING AND PRESERVING

Mail order sources
Index

This is a highly-recommended collection of well-tested, tried-and-true recipes, for traditional dishes, how to dry your own herbs, oven-dry your own tomatoes, etc ... absolutely wonderful. The author precedes each recipe with a description of what makes it so special. If you love to cook (or eat), you can't help but love this book. The one and only problem is that of the publisher ... There are full-page (often two-page) monochromatic sketches, which often divide the recipes (e.g., Page One of Recipe, one or two pages of monochromatic sketches, the Page Two of Recipe) - which is utterly ridiculous, forcing you to flip pages which could easily have faced each other. But the recipes are wonderful!

A five star book Indeed! Finally, someone put all the best recipes into one beautiful book! This is pure, original and its what I know as "Italian". Lets face it, all these books are there are turning Italian into an unrecognizable cuisine. I fear that some day soon we will be able to recognize true Italian fare.
Are we now giving the most stars for the most unusual far-fetched version of Italian food? Sure one can tweak or enhance a recipe making sure that the end results are better, but to distort the beauty of the "mona-lisa" is unacceptable. Italian food will never change, no matter how much these celebrity chefs try. Eleanora showcases the natural pure beauty of the original Italian foods that we all know and love. She makes it so easy for anyone to make these recipes with ease, without looking for real wierd/unheard of ingredients. A natural cook without a doubt who loves food and loves to share her wisdom. I cant get enough of this book, its the best yet.

Finally, an Italian cookbook that's real to life, makes sense and so useful. Plenty Italian traditional favorites, recognizable and unpretentious. I have tried all her recipes which are all delicious. A true woman who has experienced Italian food by living it, breathing it and cooks with passione! A book that I will definetely use for a lifetime. It is extremely generous with the best and most delicious recipes found from a real home cook. Now she's Italian and knows what she is doing! You will not need another Italian cookbook - This one is IT! I strongly recommend this book to everyone who wants to cook like a real ITALIAN!

I saw Eleanora on Martha Stewart and eventually (perhaps a year or two later) decided to order her book. Sadly it was out of print, but thanks to Amazon I found a great distributor. This book is well worth any price you pay. Eleanora makes such interesting dishes in ways that work for home cooks. I love canning foods, and she has great tips for sauces and other delightful ways to can tomatoes, etc. Her recipes are authentic. There are few if any books that truly reflect the home-cooked Italian heritage...regardless of the region it reflects. I love this book, and Eleanora has a delightful voice throughout the entire book.

Love this book. I cannot wait for Eleanora to create a second cookbook so I can run out and buy it. This is truly Italian cooking at its best. I should know, because I am Italian too and grew up eating this type of food in South Philadelphia. This is how real Italians cook.

I love this book! I am a registered nurse and one of my patients had this book .I asked her if I could look at it and I was HOOKED! I immediately ordered 2 books for my daughters
I am from the same region of Italy as Eleanora. All the recipes are the recipes that I learned in my mothers kitchen.. I am going to order 3 more books.. for my granddaughters..


thank you Eleanora