Customer Reviews: Elmer's All Multipurpose White Glue, 7 .625 fl. oz.oz. (E379)
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Customer Reviews

4.6 out of 5 stars
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TOP 500 REVIEWERon November 10, 2013
Elmer's White Glue is the easiest way to make strong nearly invisible repairs in decorative ceramics. The only shortcoming of white glue for ceramics is that it is water soluble---so you can't use it on cups, plates, vases, flower pots (etc) that might be soaked in water or put in a dishwasher---but white glue is perfect for decorative ceramics.

a> If the ceramic is very porous (i.e., if a drop of water dropped on the broken disappears immediately), then slightly moisten the broken surfaces before you apply the glue (the water will pull the white glue into the porous ceramic material).
b> Apply the glue, and spread it evenly (perhaps use a Q-tip).
c> Firmly press the pieces together to push out any excess glue.
d> Use a little pressure to hold the pieces together until the glue hardens.
>>> For a broken-off cup handle, arrange the cup on its side with the handle up, and secure with rubber bands.
>>> For a plate roughly broken in half, securely tape the largest half (broken edge up) to a vertical surface (ScotchBlue Painter's Tape, Multi-Use, 1.88-Inch by 60-Yard, 6-Roll). The weight of the top half (also taped in place after applying the glue) will suffice to provide enough pressure. For safety sake, you might want to use a stack of books, etc., to help hold the plate against the vertical surface.
>>> For a small cat figurine with an ear broken off, make a stand with blue painter's tape (small objects, cardboard, etc.) to securely hold the figurine at an angle, so that the break is horizontal, and the broken ear piece will stay in place by gravity. Use the weight of an object (such as a butter knife with one end held up by a stack of books) to apply gentle pressure to the "ear".
>>> In some cases small clamps, such as 6 Pack Heavy Duty Muslin Clamps 4 1/2 inch - Lot of 6 Clamps or mini bungy cords, such as Keeper 06051 10" Mini Bungee Cord, 4 Pack are useful for clamping pieces together while the glue hardens.
e> Let the glue dry for at least 4 hours---but you can wipe off excess at the edges before then if the edges are accessible.
f> Any excess white glue that squeezes out can be cleaned up with a moist cloth (not a paper towel). If the glue has thoroughly hardened, lightly scrub it with a moist cloth. It takes a minute or so for the moistened surface to soften. Be patient. Scrub, wait 15 seconds or so, and repeat, and repeat, until all the glue has been removed.
g> If you are not happy with your repair, you can soak the assembled piece in a container of water until it falls apart at the break, then brush off the softened white glue with a soft toothbrush, dry, and try again.
Note: It may take a week or longer for the glue to harden to its maximum strength.

Elmer's Craft Bond Wood Craft Glue, 4-Ounce, White is also a good choice for such repairs. It is essentially a stronger white glue, which is water-resistant when dry---but just as easy to clean up with a moist cloth before it is completely dry. I do not know if repaired items would be dishwasher safe. But I strongly suggest allowing at least a week for the glue to approach maximum hardness before using (or washing) repaired items.

Elmer's also sells Elmer's E1012 China and Glass Cement 1-Ounce, which appears to similar to wood glue, but faster drying and a little thinner (so that the glue will pull the ceramic pieces closer together as they dry). It claims to be dishwasher safe, but many reviewers claim that it is difficult to use.

> If you need to make a very strong waterproof repair (e.g., for glass jewelry). I suggest Goop. Amazing Goop All-Purpose Household Goop, 3.7-Ounce Tube #130012. However, it is easy to apply a little too much, which then squeezes out at the edges of the repair. Such excess material is hard to get rid of. It is best to let it dry a little (perhaps an hour) then cut/scrap the excess off, then use naptha or acetone to clean up any remnants.
> My wife has quite a few pieces of glass jewelry, which regularly break. If I apply too much glue, resulting in a small bead at the break, I do NOT attempt to "clean up" the excess. When dry, the bead is crystal clear and looks like part of the glass.

White glue (or wood glue) shrink as they dry, and so are not good for filling holes. A little plaster or spackle (NOT lightweight spackle) is the best for filling holes. If you overfill a hole, you can very carefully sand-down plaster level with the surface with fine sandpaper. The plaster or spackle can be colored with a felt-tip marker to better match the color of your ceramic item. Caution, it is easy to make such recolored areas too dark, so apply a little color and let it dry before applying more. If the markers are water soluble, you can use a damp tissue to soak up some excess color if it's too dark.

This is the glue professional restorers use (although there are other brands), because
> At least theoretically, repairs can be undone and redone some time in the distant future with improved techniques.
> White glue does not stain or turn brown.
> It remains flexible enough to be used on book spines etc.

> It would take a book to describe how to repair various defects in old books, and there are websites which do a good job. Beware that some repairs may reduce the value of a rare antique. So the goal should be to to the minimum repairs necessary to protect the book from further damage, and make the repairs invisible. It is best to practice on old, but low value books. The following are only a few starter suggestions:
> Do one repair at a time, let it dry completely, then move on to the next repair. It is VERY easy to damage a drying repair while you are working on another part of the book.
> Squeeze out a line of White Glue on a paper pad to work with.
> Use a fine (very small) artists brush, toothpick, or the blade of a penknife to apply the glue, as is most appropriate. Do not apply directly from the White Glue container---you'll usually apply too much.
> When necessary, use sheets of waxed paper, or butcher paper (shiny side toward the glue), or similar paper (such as the backing paper of peel-off labels) to protect parts of the books you don't want to accidentally glue together. Trust me, no matter how carefully you apply the glue, some is likely to ooze out and glue things together that you don't want glued together. So, use the waxed etc paper.
> Depending on the book and the repair, it is often desirable or necessary to clamp the whole book solidly together while the glue dries with large spring clamps.
> Have a moist cloth and a bowl of water handy to clean your fingers and any excess glue. HOWEVER, beware that the coloring of the covers of most old books, and many modern books is NOT color-fast. Do not even wipe the cover with a moist cloth if you can avoid it---or at least be cautious, and test the cover first (perhaps on a bottom edge).

> Especially if the cardboard of the cover board is delaminating (and becoming "fatter" than it should be) or the cloth cover is fraying at a corner or along an edge (usually the bottom edge), you can saturate the material with White Glue, and then mold the board back into the proper shape, and pat-down any fraying threads.
> In this case, brush-on a little White Glue, and then "pump" the glue into the cardboard by squeezing and releasing.
> Sometimes you can simply monitor the drying, squeezing the book cover it back into shape, sometimes several times, until the glue dries.
> Especially for badly bumped bent corners, you need to clamp the corners. The best way is with two old credit cards, or plastic hotel key cards, and spring clips (clothespins will usually do). Great Neck 21033 Essentials 12 Piece Spring Clamp Set

> In some cases individual pages can be placed by rubbing a glue stick on the edge (the edge, not the side near the edge), and then reinserting it. Attempts to use liquid White Glue, are less successful, because it is hard to apply a very small amount and keep it from spreading (and sticking too much of the pages together).

BROKEN BINDING--hardcover books
> If the book is loose from the cover, but the paper hinge is still completely intact, you can coat a long bamboo skewer with glue to repair the hinge from the inside. Put glue only on the hinge. DO NOT glue the "book of pages" to the spine.
> If the paper hinges are torn on the inside, then they have to be patched or replaced.
... You can use a 2-3" wide strip of paper, folded in half, lengthwise. Sometimes you can even use an extra page from the book itself (if there are extra blank pages) for a "less visible" repair. For the strongest repair, glue a strip of thin white cotton cloth to the backside of the paper.
... A better repair would be to use a full double-size sheet of paper to glue to the coverboard and to the flyleaf, completely replacing the hinge, but that is very difficult
... The stick version of White Glue Avery Glue Stic, 0.26 oz, Pack of 6, (98095) is best for gluing the hinge paper in place, because it will not cause the paper to pucker. Apply liberally, but evenly, from a fresh tube.
> If the actual binding is falling apart (i.e., the threads holding together groups of pages has failed, and the glue has failed), then you can insert a strip of heavy paper or thin cardboard, the width of the binding between the pages and the outer spine, covered with glue on the side toward the pages, then close the book. Again for the best repair, reinforce the paper strip on one or both sides with cotton cloth (such as moderately thin canvas). It would also be good to build up several layers of white glue on the side of the paper toward the pages, to make the strip rigid but flexible. You will almost certainly need to clamp the entire book until the glue dries.

BROKEN BINDING--soft cover books
> For torn-off covers, you use the instructions for repairing hardcover hinges above. Just applying adhesive tape may be tempting (and will work), but you only have "one shot", whereas with paper strips and glue, you can re-position as necessary. And trust me, you will usually need to re-position.
... For extra strength you can use 2" heavy wide clear vinyl tape on the outside Scotch Heavy Duty Shipping Packaging Tape, 2 Inch x 800 Inch, Clear, to reinforce the repaired inside hinge. Caveat, vinyl tape really only works well if the spine is in almost new condition--if there are any creases, the tape is likely to pucker. Clean the spine thoroughly before applying the tape. Yes, you can cover a new paperback with contact paper to give it a longer life--but using contact paper to repair an old book is unlikely to work well for a variety of reasons.
> If there is a large gap as a result of the binding cracking, sometimes you can apply a very thin line of white glue in the crack, close the book, and let it dry.
> If the book is falling apart as several large sections as the result of the binding cracking, sometimes you can glue them in place, and then "paint" the outside of the spine repeatedly (letting it dry in between applications) until you build up a thick layer of glue---in effect binding on the outside. For this, clearer white glue (than Elmer's) is best. At most arts and crafts stores you can buy such glue, meant for colagues. Okay, the repair will not be invisible, but you will be able to read the title (of the spine), and often you can save an otherwise hopeless case. This method allows the book to be opened without cracking-open again at the weak spots.
> In rare cases when the cover (front, spine, and back in one piece) is completely loose from the book, but both are intact, you can simply glue the cover back on---but it is often advisable to build-up the binding a little bit with glue (as described immediately above, but on the inside).

Work SLOWLY, repair a small part at a time, and let it dry before moving on. With care, miracles can be done---a crumbling book can be made solid.
> Study the construction of a similar book which is in good condition---many components are meant to be loose, not glued together.
> Apply a little White Glue at a time.
> Push the edges together as necessary---sometimes a straight pin is useful for this.
> Monitor every few minutes as the repair dries, making corrections as necessary.

> Click on “Stoney” just below the product title to see my other reviews, or leave a comment to ask a question.
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on November 9, 2009
This large bottle of Elmer's Glue-All cost less than the small bottle. That's a wonderful selling point! The glue itself is better quality than Elmer's school glue (used for paper crafts and such). Elmer's Glue-All really works for little repairs around the home! I had a broken toy piano, and used this glue to fix it. Good as new! :o)
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on November 10, 2015
What would we do without our old favorite and dependable Elmer's AP White Glue??? It was excellent when we first started using it years and years ago and continues its fine reputation for dependability.
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on February 12, 2016
My grandson (2 1/2 yrs old :-)) caused a large statue on one of my tables to fall off and break into 3 succinct pieces. I happened to have a bottle of this Elmers Glue All already on hand and used it to glue this weighty statue back together. Did a fantastic job and you would never know it was broken to look at it. All's well that ends well and I am very impressed with this glue.

I glued one section stabilizing it with masking tape and let it cure for 16 to 24 hrs before removing the tape. Then followed suit on the next section. It may not be necessary to cure it as long as I did but due to the weight I wanted to make sure.
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on February 8, 2011
Sometimes the old standby is still the best. Over the years I have probably tried every new glue that comes on the market but when it is all said and done (and many of these disappear from the shelves)I always seem to come back to Elmer's It's the same great product in the same looking bottle and with the same twisting orange tip that doesn't clog. Elmer's seems to believe in that old axiom that says "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." Thank you Elmer's!
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on September 12, 2012
This glue totally makes things stick together. I used it for a couple craft projects, and it worked well. It made sure that the paper stuck together when I needed it to. It works, and it seemed to be cheap enough when I bought it, so I'll buy it again if I need more multipurpose white glue.
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on January 31, 2010
Elmer's is the gold standard. Does what it does and does it well. Seems silly to even write a review for it. Doesn't everyone already know Elmer's and isn't there already a bottle in every house?!? Goes on white and dries clear.
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on July 18, 2016
This glue is quite strong and did the job helping to complete my granddaughter's doll house. The price was fair for the size of the bottle. I appreciate the quick shipping and delivery very much!
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on December 29, 2012
Elmer's Glue is the standard for gluing where water is not an issue. Don't use the glue spout and it will last without drying out. Great price.
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on April 21, 2016
I actually use this to help paint my nails. Works like a charm and easy cheaper then what the beauty market charges.
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