Customer Reviews

Essence and Alchemy: A Book of Perfume

5 star:		(17)
4 star:		(3)
3 star:		(4)
2 star:		(4)
1 star:		(1)

 

 

This just might be the best overall book on fragrance ever, ever written. It is of essential interest to the reader interested in perfume at most any level, from the connoisseur to the designer to the fabricator to the consumer. Mandy Aftel persists in creating perfumes from "all natural" ingredients, after "the trade" now relies on synthetics and scent enhancers and linear construction, even in the most expensive concoctions. And, here we're talking about QUALITY perfumes with history behind them, not new age, "go with the glow" infusions that are often a little reminiscent of the compost heap after the rain. For the general reader, Aftel references the history of fragrance preparation, from ancient times, through alchemists perfumery, to the great age of the perfection of the art in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. All the traditional ingredients are itemized, from essential incenses and oils used as the "base" to the citrus and floral essences used for the "heart" or middle notes, to the delicate and short-termed finishing high or "head" notes. The properties of each are well explored. More interested readers will be delighted to learn more about the character of what is going into their favorite perfumes and what combines and what doesn't. The reader considering dabbling in perfumery, will find this to be an excellent guide on how to start and continue to build fragrances from easily obtainable essences acquired by mail order.

This book relates the historical facts about perfumes in an enjoyable, easy to read manner. The author does not limit herself to the descriptions of the typical essential oils listed in most books such as lavender, rose and jasmine, but also includes more exotic aromatics such as blood orange, champa, amberette, and cabreuva. She does not include the more medicinal smelling oils like thyme and tea tree in her recomendations as many other books do. However, this is a book on perfumary and the esthetic properties of the essential oils are the focus. For those interested in the technical and medicinal merits of the essential oils, this is not the book for you. The author does not promote the use of animal products; they are mentioned as these oils are a part of the history of perfumery, and still have a role , albiet diminished, in the modern perfume industry. Her discriptions of the various oils are detailed and her anecdotal references are interesting. She describes how to blend oils, offers suggestions on blending companions, and provides enough data to create your own blends. The oils are catagorized by note, and also according to family ie. resin, citrus, floral etc.She also includes recipies, indicates which oils are costly and/or difficult to find, and some sources. Overall, this is a well written, entertaining, and information packed book, which focuses on perfumery not chemistry.A sheer joy to read, and inspiring for the creative nature of blending essential oils.

This is the book to have when you want the best perspective about natural perfumery. Most perfume books focus solely on the synthetic or aesthetic aspect of scent. "Essence and Alchemy" goes into depth about all aspects of perfume: scientifically, historically, sensually and spiritually. Maybe this will add one more element to home perfume-making. It's what makes the book unique. That, and it's a great read. I renewed it twice from the library when I first came across it!

I am familiar with the few available sources of reliable information on perfumery, as well as the various treatises on sundry applications of natural botanical oils and extracts. Books offering expert insight into the individual ingredients used in natural Perfumery, such as Steffan Arctander's History of Natural Flavors and fragrance Materials, are quite scarce and far beyond the budget of most. Recent publications on the fundamentals of perfumery, such as Salvatore Paul Gimelli's Aroma Science, are highly technical and unsuited to those lacking a broad foundation in chemistry.

I would recommend that Ms. Mandy Aftel's Essence and Alchemy: A Book of Perfume be considered mandatory reading for anyone fascinated with natural oils and extracts, and the sensual world of Perfume. This is an ideal guide to the student and neophyte perfumer alike. Ms. Aftel has offered us a wonderful introduction to natural perfumery. Those seeking an historical study of perfumery will find in Essence and Alchemy exhaustive research distilled into a fascinating and elegant retelling. But more than providing us with a mere history of perfumery, Ms. Aftel has shared a wealth of knowledge gathered from her own experiences working as a professional perfumer. Essence and Alchemy offers a unique insight into a master perfumer's art. Ms. Aftel provides a most enchanting invitation to the world of natural perfume, and if ever a book may revitalize the all but lost art of natural perfumery, it is Ms. Aftel's Essence and Alchemy.

A reviewer has expressed strong disapproval over the inclusion of Animal derived materials, such as Civet, in Ms. Aftel's book.. Civet is certainly among the ingredients used in traditional natural perfumery. Civet can prove extremely difficult to work with, and a great deal of skill is required to successfully formulate with this ingredient. Competence in the application of Civet may serve as an indicator of the skill of a natural perfumer. Of course, use of Civet, or any animal derived ingredient is not necessary to make natural perfume. Vegetarians, Vegans, and many others who find animal derived materials unpleasant may work without them.

In my opinion, this reviewer has greatly overstated the role of animal derived materials as suggested in Essence and Alchemy. Nowhere in Essence and Alchemy does the Author "wax nostalgic on the world of perfumery when animals were hunted to extinction or worse for their essences". This remark is absurd, and hurtful. The author expresses no cruel delight in reminiscing over the decimation of species sacrificed in order to collect fragrant musk.. Civet Cats are not slaughtered to collect Civet Paste, which is a grease-like substance secreted from glands located below the animal's tail. Proper care of the cats will vary from keeper to keeper, but it is not necessary to do the animal harm while collecting Civet Paste. Any keeper who cares for the animals or values them as a source of livelihood will protect the cat's health as vigilantly as any dairy farmer would that of a milk cow. Civets are not considered endangered, and the Cat has no forerunners that have become extinct due to demands of the fragrance industry.

Further, it should be made clear that the reviewer is thoroughly in error that Civet Paste "....is illegal to import to the US, and illegal to sell". I have been professionally importing fragrance and flavor ingredients into the United States from around the world for six years, and I recommend all concerned parties peruse the Harmonized Tariff Schedule of the United States (2003) - supplement 1, Chapter Five, under the heading 0510.00.20.00, Ambergris, Castoreum, Civet and Musk. My personal recommendation to the reviewer is that they offer an apology and courteous retraction of the statement suggesting that Ms. Aftel has encouraged any illegal activity, such as the import or distribution of good labeled contraband in the United States.

But I digress...If you are interested in the art of natural perfumery, Ms. Aftel's Essence and Alchemy: A Book of Perfume is the best resource the available to you. Take advantage of a beautifully written book on a most fascinating topic!

There are a number of books on perfume out there (be they ever so hard to get a hold of), and very few give any information other than what has been said before again and again. But this book actually delves a little deeper and touches on this subject with new and subtle observations not seen before. Very well done!

What I really appreciated about this book was the quality of research that went into the project. I would love to spend a day in Mandy's library looking through her resources.

Next comes "Artistic Integrity" where Mandy boldy presents subjects regardless of their popularity, and without fear of dealing with petty, small-minded, and prejudiced people who will scorn her efforts based on these prejudices.

The book is primarily about "Natural Perfumery" as it was, and as it is today, and she does so beautifully!

I personally consider it a must, not only for those interested in perfumery, but in all the aromatic arts.

First, I want to state that I do love this book. I find it inspirational, beautiful, and entertaining. The history of perfumery was especially enjoyable. The sections on creating your own perfume also have a lot of wonderful information.

HOWEVER...

This book was published in 2001, so perhaps that has something to do with this issue (i.e., perhaps certain safety and/or ethical issues were not then widely documented or understood). I'm happy to cut the author some slack on that count, but I really must clearly state that some of the author's recommendations for oils are questionable for safety and ethical reasons. Readers would do well to do their own research and not just take the author's word for it when she tells you to put cold-pressed bergamot oil on your skin (even diluted, there is a risk of phototoxicity!), or recommends the use of Mysore sandalwood (which is an endangered species and is subject to a great deal of criminal black market trafficking as well as adulteration).

Other things to look out for include the recommendation of costus root (highly allergenic, forbidden for use in fragrances as per International Fragrance Association guidelines, plus the plant is threatened or possibly endangered by now), boi de rose (Brazilian rosewood, which is endangered and the subject of highly unethical exploitation), civet (unethical due to treatment of the animals from which it is obtained), castoreum (as with civet), and those are just the things that I can recall off the top of my head. To her credit, Mandy Aftel no longer uses civet or castoreum or any other ethically questionable animal products in her work; as noted, this book was published in 2001, and she appears to have had some change of heart or mind since then, at least on the issue of animal products.

She does give a brief nod to safety and advises patch testing (although phototoxicity cannot be tested that way) and she directs the reader to the IFRA website for further guidelines. The reader is WELL ADVISED to do this, and to really look into the issues involved in which oils are and are not safe to put on your skin, and in what dilutions and quantities. Essential oil safety shouldn't be taken lightly, and what you don't know can harm you, others, and the environment, and possibly contribute to the extinction of a species.

Now, I really do not want to leave anyone with the impression that this is not a worthwhile book, because it most emphatically is worthwhile! It is beautifully written, full of delightful quotations, sensual prose, and fascinating ideas, it's a little mystical, maybe a little magickal, too, and a wealth of inspiration to anyone wanting to learn the art of natural perfumery. This book, in fact, started something of a revolution, a renaissance in the art of natural perfumery, and it is very clear to me why that is and how it happened. This is an incredibly inspiring and beautiful book, and one I am sure I will refer to and cherish for many years to come.

So long as you educate yourself on the issues I mentioned, this book will serve you well, and even if you never intend to buy an essential oil or make any perfume whatsoever, the book is a lovely read if you're a perfume lover, if only for the wonderful history section and musings about alchemy as it relates to perfumery. As I said, it's a beautiful book, and well worth reading.

As a novice to perfumery, I found this to be an incredibly helpful introduction. It is written more stylishly than a good deal of novels, heavy on illustrations, and brimming full of information. Giving this book five stars just doesn't do it justice.

This is my first perfume "text book" and I find it extremely helpful in learning to understand the processes of making natural perfumes. The tables, suggestions for getting acquainted with different scents, the details about perfume making are wonderful. In addition, I was able to get a very fast reply to my email when I had a specific question. This book also includes interesting historical data. I highly recommend it, specially for the beginning perfumer.

Mandy Aftel makes this an interesting read. This book was wonderful, I couldnt put in down till I was finished. She runs through the history, magic, and memories that perfumes conjure up. If you enjoy aromatherapy, and would love to know why our noses "remember" you should read this book. I will be recommending it to my friends!