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Ethan Stowell's New Italian Kitchen: Bold Cooking from Seattle's Anchovies & Olives, How to Cook A Wolf, Staple & Fancy Mercantile, and Tavolàta Hardcover – September 21, 2010
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Mob-Hit Squid is one of my favorite recipes in the book, clean fresh flavors, not too challenging to prepare and easy to serve at a party. It’s not so much "new" Italian as it is classic Italian with a playful name to make sure you know that cooking is meant to be fun for all. --Ethan Stowell
1 cup Controne Beans (recipe following)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for rubbing
8 large squid, cleaned
1/2 pound Home-Cured Bacon (recipe following), diced
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
Preheat the grill on high.
Pulse the beans in a food processor into a rough purée, then place in a bowl with the parsley and the olive oil.
Cut the tentacles off the squid bodies in one piece, keeping the legs intact and creating a large opening at the bottom of each squid body. Grill, turning once, until the tentacles are just cooked through, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer to a cutting board and give the tentacles a rough chop. Add the grilled tentacles to the bowl with the bean purée.
Place the bacon in a sauté pan over medium to medium-low heat and cook for 4 to 6 minutes, or until the bacon slightly crisps and renders some of its fat. Drain the bacon and add to the rest of the ingredients. Mix gently but thoroughly with a rubber spatula. Season with salt and pepper.
To stuff the squid, you can use a pastry bag fitted with a large tip, a resealable bag with a corner cut off, or a small spoon. Fill the bodies loosely because the stuffing will expand during cooking. After filling, close the top of each squid by threading a toothpick through twice.
Rub each body with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill the squid until the bodies are opaque and the filling is heated through, 6 to 8 minutes.
1 cup controne beans
1 head garlic, halved horizontally
1 large carrot, peeled and halved
2 stalks celery
1 thick slice lemon
1 clove garlic, smashed
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Put the beans, garlic head, carrot, and celery in a large pot over high heat and cover with 2 inches of water. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer for 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until tender. Remove the vegetables and strain the beans, then put into a serving bowl. While the beans are still warm, add the lemon slice, garlic clove, olive oil, and salt to taste. The beans will absorb the flavors and seasoning as they cool; they will be ready to serve after 10 minutes, but are equally good served at room temperature.
Note: To prepare the beans ahead of time, cook until tender, then cool in their cooking liquid in the refrigerator. Reheat in the liquid, then strain and proceed with the recipe.
Makes a heck of a lot of great bacon
2 to 3 tablespoons ground Aleppo pepper, to taste
3 pounds kosher salt
1 teaspoon curing salt
1 pound granulated sugar
1 pound brown sugar
Rub the pork belly top and bottom with the Aleppo pepper. Combine the kosher salt, curing salt, granulated sugar, and brown sugar in a large, nonreactive container and bury the belly completely in the mixture. Cover and refrigerate for 2 days.
Remove the belly from the refrigerator and discard the cure. Rinse the remaining cure off the meat and pat it dry. Set the belly on a baking sheet and loosely cover. Allow to sit in the refrigerator another 2 days.
Using a conventional smoker, smoke the belly until the internal temperature reaches 145°F. Once the belly is smoked and cooled, cut into 4 sections. Wrap the sections well in plastic wrap and foil and store in the freezer until needed, up to 3 months.
From Publishers Weekly
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Top Customer Reviews
My heart skipped a beat.
Now, unlike others, I am not one who is going to knock this down a peg because the ingredients used are not familiar to all grocery stores. This is not for the `I just need something quick and easy to feed my family' type chef, so if that is what you are looking for...walk away. This cookbook is for the chef who wants to be something more than he (or she) already is. This is for the person who wants to try new things and learn how to expand their culinary skills.
It's funny because my mother and I were just talking about getting together and making fresh pasta, and then I get this book complete with recipes on FRESH PASTA! I couldn't believe it. That right there is further proof that this is not your average cookbook.
The recipes, despite containing complicated ingredients and despite relying on a certain level of skill to execute (you won't be able to handle all of these recipes the first day in), they are easy to follow and contain nice illustrations that showcase the richness of the food.
In the end, I'm all head over heals in love with this book. Be forewarned, this book contains recipes that use Ox Tail and Urchin Roe, but if want to tap into your culinary wild side, this book is the perfect complement to your impending journey!
Although the recipes in Ethan Stowell's New Italian Kitchen are not what anyone would call traditional Italian cuisine, many of the main ingredients show a definite European influence. The use of rabbit, lamb, duck and goat is common in much of the world and is a welcomed change from the overused chicken, beef and pork that we find in many US cookbooks. The seafood shows an urban-coastal prospective with the use of various clams, geoduck, octopus, Shigoku Oysters and Uni. Finally, the wonderful trend towards shopping for exciting and unusual vegetables and greens at local Farmer's Markets is represented here in all of it's diversity and glory.
It usually takes me a while to review a cookbook like this because I insist on preparing as many of the dishes as possible. Here are the dishes that I've made so far and my thoughts about them:
* Soft-Boiled Eggs with Anchovy Mayonnaise - This was one of the easiest recipes in the book so I tackled it first. I loved soft-boiled eggs and often make my own mayonnaise so this dish appealed to me right off the bat.Read more ›
I don't do much cooking out of cookbooks, but enjoy them for inspiration. This is good for inspiration, but so many of the recipes use obscure or hard to find ingredients -- and very specific ingredients -- that there are probably only a handful of recipes I'd actually ever really want to tackle. But even the ones I'd never make are fun to look at. There are also a fair number of simpler recipes, but some of them are so simple that I'd think anyone with the skill to make the not-so-simple recipes would already know that you can put onions and tomato in a pot to make tomato sauce.
I did make Stowell's Butternut Squash Risotto, and it was mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm. It was also a little too rich, thanks to the addition of a cup of parmesan at the end -- a step I wouldn't repeat, since risotto is already so "cheesy" even without the addition of cheese. I think, though, that I could have just as easily used the Joy of Cooking risotto recipe and just added squash, and it would have turned out just as well. But! I did get the idea from Stowell, even though I already had the squash on hand (or ground, since it came from my garden).
All in all, if you're a cookbook collector and love cookbooks for the ideas, more than for the recipes, I think this is a good buy. It would also probably be a good bet for anyone who loves Italian cooking but wants to get a little more adventurous. I certainly wouldn't recommend it to a beginning cook, or anyone with an aversion to seeking out very specific ingredients.
Most Recent Customer Reviews
This book seems to be aimed at the snobbier end of the foodie spectrum. I have been to Italy several times plus my Grandmother was and my best friend is from Italy. Read morePublished 23 months ago by M. Hemphill
I was looking forward to this cookbook; I like having new things to play with in the kitchen, and even though I'm not an especially accomplished cook, I do like to challenge... Read morePublished on April 6, 2013 by Lupa
The blurb says it all - unfussy. Nothing worse than a fussy cookbook.
If you like modern Italian food (classic techniques with perhaps unconventional or more regional... Read more
I was sort of put off on what I interpreted as strict requirements of very specific lists of hard-to-find ingredients rather than a focus on workable general techniques for... Read morePublished on December 21, 2012 by Dave Faris
Let me start by saying I really wanted to like this book. I have a large and varied cookbook collection which leans about 75% Italian. Read morePublished on June 15, 2012 by M. Mann
The table of contents is spread out over four pages. The first page only has two sections on it, one for appetizers, and the other called the measure of a cook. Read morePublished on October 24, 2011 by William D. Colburn
This is a foodie's cookbook. "Cheese of the Civilized and Desserts for the Rest of You" should give you an indication of the culinary tone of the book. Read morePublished on October 8, 2011 by NuJoi
This cookbook is not for average home cooks or even those who consider themselves foodies to some degree. Read morePublished on September 18, 2011 by Kristen Stewart
We frequent Ethan Stowell's restaurants in the Seattle area - Staple & Fancy is probably my favorite restaurant, ever. Read morePublished on January 21, 2011 by Stefica