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Ethan Stowell's New Italian Kitchen: Bold Cooking from Seattle's Anchovies & Olives, How to Cook A Wolf, Staple & Fancy Mercantile, and Tavolàta Hardcover – September 21, 2010

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Product Details

  • Hardcover: 240 pages
  • Publisher: Ten Speed Press (September 21, 2010)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 158008818X
  • ISBN-13: 978-1580088183
  • Product Dimensions: 9.3 x 0.9 x 10.3 inches
  • Shipping Weight: 2.4 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
  • Average Customer Review: 3.5 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (51 customer reviews)
  • Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #412,831 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

Editorial Reviews Review

Fall into Cooking Featured Recipe from Ethan Stowell's New Italian Kitchen: Mob-Hit Squid

Mob-Hit Squid is one of my favorite recipes in the book, clean fresh flavors, not too challenging to prepare and easy to serve at a party. It’s not so much "new" Italian as it is classic Italian with a playful name to make sure you know that cooking is meant to be fun for all. --Ethan Stowell

Serves 4


1 cup Controne Beans (recipe following)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for rubbing
8 large squid, cleaned
1/2 pound Home-Cured Bacon (recipe following), diced
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

Preheat the grill on high.

Pulse the beans in a food processor into a rough purée, then place in a bowl with the parsley and the olive oil.

Cut the tentacles off the squid bodies in one piece, keeping the legs intact and creating a large opening at the bottom of each squid body. Grill, turning once, until the tentacles are just cooked through, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer to a cutting board and give the tentacles a rough chop. Add the grilled tentacles to the bowl with the bean purée.

Place the bacon in a sauté pan over medium to medium-low heat and cook for 4 to 6 minutes, or until the bacon slightly crisps and renders some of its fat. Drain the bacon and add to the rest of the ingredients. Mix gently but thoroughly with a rubber spatula. Season with salt and pepper.

To stuff the squid, you can use a pastry bag fitted with a large tip, a resealable bag with a corner cut off, or a small spoon. Fill the bodies loosely because the stuffing will expand during cooking. After filling, close the top of each squid by threading a toothpick through twice.

Rub each body with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill the squid until the bodies are opaque and the filling is heated through, 6 to 8 minutes.

Controne Beans

1 cup controne beans
1 head garlic, halved horizontally
1 large carrot, peeled and halved
2 stalks celery
1 thick slice lemon
1 clove garlic, smashed
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt

Put the beans, garlic head, carrot, and celery in a large pot over high heat and cover with 2 inches of water. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer for 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until tender. Remove the vegetables and strain the beans, then put into a serving bowl. While the beans are still warm, add the lemon slice, garlic clove, olive oil, and salt to taste. The beans will absorb the flavors and seasoning as they cool; they will be ready to serve after 10 minutes, but are equally good served at room temperature.

Note: To prepare the beans ahead of time, cook until tender, then cool in their cooking liquid in the refrigerator. Reheat in the liquid, then strain and proceed with the recipe.

Home-Cured Bacon
Makes a heck of a lot of great bacon

1 fresh pork belly, skin removed, 7 to 9 pounds
2 to 3 tablespoons ground Aleppo pepper, to taste
3 pounds kosher salt
1 teaspoon curing salt
1 pound granulated sugar
1 pound brown sugar

Rub the pork belly top and bottom with the Aleppo pepper. Combine the kosher salt, curing salt, granulated sugar, and brown sugar in a large, nonreactive container and bury the belly completely in the mixture. Cover and refrigerate for 2 days.

Remove the belly from the refrigerator and discard the cure. Rinse the remaining cure off the meat and pat it dry. Set the belly on a baking sheet and loosely cover. Allow to sit in the refrigerator another 2 days.

Using a conventional smoker, smoke the belly until the internal temperature reaches 145°F. Once the belly is smoked and cooled, cut into 4 sections. Wrap the sections well in plastic wrap and foil and store in the freezer until needed, up to 3 months.

From Publishers Weekly

The title's "new" claim is apt; this is no red-sauce cookbook. The proprietor of three popular, ingredient-driven, Italian-inspired Seattle restaurants presents a collection of recipes rich with flavor and often featuring intriguing taste combinations. Cavatelli with cuttlefish, spring onion, and lemon has a hit of spice from chili flakes, and a roast quail is stuffed with pancetta, lacinato kale, and sage. As with any good chef-written book, readers will find gems of kitchen wisdom--like which parts of watercress to use in a salad and how to prepare beef to make carne cruda with the perfect texture--casually sprinkled throughout. A humorous chapter on cheese and desserts includes such intriguing presentations as La Tur with oven-roasted tomato; lemon verbena panna cotta with poached peaches; and roasted figs with chocolate-espresso ganache. Like the other recipes in the book, these showcase fresh ingredients and have a decidedly modern feel. (Oct.) (c)
Copyright © PWxyz, LLC. All rights reserved.

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Customer Reviews

The book has very clear directions.
M. Hyman
I wouldn't recommend this cookbook for home cooks who want to just find a few impressive recipes.
Some other ingredients, too, are simply not available in my area.
Arthur Digbee

Most Helpful Customer Reviews

7 of 8 people found the following review helpful By S. D. Fischer VINE VOICE on September 14, 2010
Format: Hardcover Vine Customer Review of Free Product ( What's this? )
As noted in other reviews, many of the recipes in Ethan Stowell's New Italian Kitchen: Bold Cooking from Seattle's Anchovies & Olives, How to Cook A Wolf, Staple & Fancy Mercantile, and Tavolàta call for exotic ingredients and unusual meats not likely to be found in the average supermarket. Quite a few dishes feature seafood which could be a draw or a drawback, depending on your palate and budget.

There is a brief introduction to each recipe with preparation tips and serving suggestions. The author sometimes suggests substitutions (such as other types of oysters which could work for the Baked Stellar Oysters).

The author encourages readers to feature many small plates to give their guests exposure to a wide variety of dishes, and to aim to have those guests sated rather than stuffed at the end of the meal.

As a vegetarian, I didn't see many recipes I could eat (even the risotto calls for chicken stock). And when I ate meat, I didn't eat the "delicacies" featured in this book - from lamb tongue and oxtail to rabbit paws and sea urchin roe to veal cheeks and tripe (which I had to look up - it is the stomach tissue of a ruminant such as oxen, sheep and goats). You may notice that the only chicken recipe in the book is for chicken livers. The author correctly points out that there are thousands of chicken recipes in other cookbooks so he focused on duck and smaller birds such as duck and quail.

I've listed the recipes below so you can judge for yourself whether they appeal to you. After all, taste varies by person and by culture. Vegetarian recipes are noted by an asterisk (*).
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11 of 14 people found the following review helpful By Andrew Ellington VINE VOICE on September 23, 2010
Format: Hardcover Vine Customer Review of Free Product ( What's this? )
Yes, I love to cook. I love to try new things and experiment with ingredients I've never used before. I like to `wow' myself and others with food. Oh, and I love Italian food, which is the primary reason why I snatched this up. Upon opening this book though, I realized that this was far more than I anticipated. This isn't your mom and dads Italian food. This is experimental, interesting and unique takes on Italian cuisine.

My heart skipped a beat.

Now, unlike others, I am not one who is going to knock this down a peg because the ingredients used are not familiar to all grocery stores. This is not for the `I just need something quick and easy to feed my family' type chef, so if that is what you are looking for...walk away. This cookbook is for the chef who wants to be something more than he (or she) already is. This is for the person who wants to try new things and learn how to expand their culinary skills.

It's funny because my mother and I were just talking about getting together and making fresh pasta, and then I get this book complete with recipes on FRESH PASTA! I couldn't believe it. That right there is further proof that this is not your average cookbook.

The recipes, despite containing complicated ingredients and despite relying on a certain level of skill to execute (you won't be able to handle all of these recipes the first day in), they are easy to follow and contain nice illustrations that showcase the richness of the food.

In the end, I'm all head over heals in love with this book. Be forewarned, this book contains recipes that use Ox Tail and Urchin Roe, but if want to tap into your culinary wild side, this book is the perfect complement to your impending journey!

Bon appetit.
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7 of 9 people found the following review helpful By Timothy B. Riley HALL OF FAMETOP 50 REVIEWERVINE VOICE on October 8, 2010
Format: Hardcover Vine Customer Review of Free Product ( What's this? )
I have been a serious amateur cook for a couple of decades now and I have made friends with others that share my passion. When I entertain my foodie friends they are always polite and complimentary, but I can tell when my dish has fallen short of their expectations (especially when some of them are professional chefs). More than anything, what we are looking for is unique flavor combinations, dishes that make you say, "Wow, I had no idea that those ingredients could work together like that!" However, coming up with truly new and innovative recipes is not always easy. This book has given me the confidence that I will aways be able to blow my guests away with exciting culinary creations.

Although the recipes in Ethan Stowell's New Italian Kitchen are not what anyone would call traditional Italian cuisine, many of the main ingredients show a definite European influence. The use of rabbit, lamb, duck and goat is common in much of the world and is a welcomed change from the overused chicken, beef and pork that we find in many US cookbooks. The seafood shows an urban-coastal prospective with the use of various clams, geoduck, octopus, Shigoku Oysters and Uni. Finally, the wonderful trend towards shopping for exciting and unusual vegetables and greens at local Farmer's Markets is represented here in all of it's diversity and glory.

It usually takes me a while to review a cookbook like this because I insist on preparing as many of the dishes as possible. Here are the dishes that I've made so far and my thoughts about them:

* Soft-Boiled Eggs with Anchovy Mayonnaise - This was one of the easiest recipes in the book so I tackled it first. I loved soft-boiled eggs and often make my own mayonnaise so this dish appealed to me right off the bat.
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